'14 Mustang GT Base, Suspension Suggetions - Mustang Evolution

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Old 10-15-2014, 01:25 PM   #1
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'14 Mustang GT Base, Suspension Suggetions

I know this has been put thru the ringer but....

I am wanting to get a suspension package together for my '14 Mustang GT. Looking for a small drop (1" - 1 1/2" at most) to increase handling and still maintain a somewhat comfortable ride and if possible keep a slight "rake" look. I am aware that with lowering my Stang that I will sacrifice some comfort. I don't want to slam my car or have a ride that will knock my teeth loose and prefer not to have the need for new ball joints or a bumpsteer kit. Looking for springs, shocks/struts, adjustable panhard bar, adjustable UCA, LCA, LCA relo brackets, decent strut mounts, jounce stops good for the drop, sway bars. Now my car only has 1900 miles on it and it is my DD plus my wife (but not often...lol) will be taking cruises with me. I will not track the car and would be very surprised if it seen a track any time in the future. I am a spirited driver and occasionally take my car to the twisties around here for some curve carving enjoyment but with the stock set up it is like being in a boat. I have searched the sites and researched my a$$ off but really would like real world advise. I have researched Koni, Steeda, FRPP, etc...
If I could get some input or perhaps there is a package or piece together kit that would be greatly appreciated. If you have specific questions please ask me. Or if you feel that a particular item or items are not needed please elaborate. Thanks
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Old 10-15-2014, 01:37 PM   #2
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I am very happy with mine. everything from looks to handling:
BMR adjustable pan hard bar
BMR Adjustable upper control arm
BMR lower control arms
Eibach Pro-Damper shocks and struts
Eibach Sportline springs
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Old 10-15-2014, 01:44 PM   #3
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I have the same setup as NaplesStang, and agree that for me it rides and handles the way I had hoped.
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Old 10-15-2014, 02:10 PM   #4
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How is the ride quality guys? I had total eibach package (minus eibach shocks/struts)sportline springs, tokico shocks and struts, eibach sways all poly bushings, etc, on my 95 and it was a little past stiff. But that was on a SN95.
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Old 10-15-2014, 02:15 PM   #5
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maniac95, I drive to work in it weather permitting. My commute is 18 miles of county roads, no problems so far. It's no harsher than the stock ride was.
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Old 10-15-2014, 02:24 PM   #6
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Hoss, did you need camber bolts or cc plates and did you upgrade your strut mounts. I mean so far this sounds like a decent setup.
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Old 10-15-2014, 02:39 PM   #7
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Yes, I used Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates up front, (they replace the weak factory strut mounts), and an adjustable rear upper control arm to make sure the pinion angle didn't change. The ride is pretty decent for a daily driver... I broke my back a couple of years ago and this setup does not cause any unnecessary pain for me. Since I installed this setup, I haven't been to a road course/track, so I can't tell you the amount of improvement in handling yet. Hope this helps with your decision.
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Old 10-15-2014, 02:48 PM   #8
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Thanks for the info Hoss. This will be a set up that I do put on the list to consider. Thanks again!
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Old 10-15-2014, 02:50 PM   #9
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No problem, and good luck with your build.
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Old 10-15-2014, 03:24 PM   #10
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ya ride quality good. i have no problems. i got camper bolts but plates probably the way to go

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Old 10-15-2014, 03:35 PM   #11
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This is what I just ordered. The rear shocks are on back order and the springs are also on back order.
1. BMR TUBULAR ADJ PANHARD ROD ADJUSTABLE. BLACK HAMMERTONE
2. REAR LOWER CONTROL ARMS POLY BUSHINGS BLACK HAMMERTONE 3. ADJUSTABLE UPPER CONTROL ARM WITH POLY BUSHINGS
4. UPPER PANHARD ROD SUPPORT
5. REAR UPPER CONTROL ARM MOUNT
6. KONI YELLOW SPORT ADJUSTABLE FRONT STRUT & REAR
7. REAR LOWER CONTROL ARM RELOCATION BRACKETS
8. SPINDLE TO STRUT BOLT & NUT
9. MAXIMUM MOTORSPORT CASTER/CAMBER PLATES
10. STEEDA ULTRA-LITE SPRINGS
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Old 10-15-2014, 03:38 PM   #12
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I'd go with Koni yellows or Bilsteins anyday over Eibach, Steeda's aren't bad either. We build suspensions on a daily basis, just let us know if we can help
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Old 10-15-2014, 10:31 PM   #13
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I would definitely like to hear what you think. I really don't want to go adjustable shocks but would like a decent grade suspension. If you read my first post this will definitely let you get an idea ok what I'm looking for. I'm definitely serious about a buy even if it is most needed then on down the line. If you want to know more specifics my email is jlee201342@gmail.com.
Thanks, Jack
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Old 10-16-2014, 03:40 AM   #14
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Eibach sportline are lower than Pro Kit. I can recommend pro kit is just 1 in the front and 1.5 rear. Perfect look
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Old 10-16-2014, 08:17 AM   #15
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I installed the Ford Racing handling pack on my car last month which came with springs, shocks, struts, front and rear sway bars, strut tower brace and all the hardware. It lowered the car 1" overall and handles very well, much better than stock but still retains a fairly comfortable ride. Regular price was around $1200 IIR but I got a great deal on the kit, $500 because it was discontinued. They still sell the kit but now the struts come pre-assembled and they charge more for it. I don't race or track the car so this is enough for now but if I add a supercharger I will probably look into new control arms as well.
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Old 10-16-2014, 09:22 AM   #16
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My Set up was less than $1000 and my mustang has been completely transformed.

BMR LCA + Brackets (poly bushings)
BMR Adj PHB (poly bushing)
Then i trolled the Boss forums and found someone selling used Boss shocks / struts and Ford Racing springs i grabbed for like $450. I do the occasional track day, and the Boss suspension provides enough adjustment for a novice like me to still go out and have fun. I will admit ... i hate the Ford Racing springs anywhere but the track, they're entirely too stiff, but i gave my GF my Eibachs on my stock GT suspension for her '14 V6 and just haven't felt like buying another set or doing another spring install. You can definitely find good deals used if you search the forums, theres always someone getting rid of something.
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Old 10-16-2014, 10:06 AM   #17
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SUPER pleased with this setup and it LOOKS as good as it performs.

Eibach R2 adjustable Coilovers front and back (can control both stiffness and rebound in a matter of minutes without tools)
MMS Caster Camber Plates
Bob's Billet LCA's (beautifully milled LCA's that look and perform great)
UPR - UCA.....any good adjustable UCA, just get one with a good bushing, not a spherical bushing)
Eibach adjustable Panhard Bar


Best thing about this system is how EASY it is to completely change the look and performance of your car. Want more rake, lay under the car and make the adjustment in a matter of minutes. Want to slam it for just a day or show, can do it in minutes. Want a smooth daily driver, simply set the coilovers to soft and it rides like a caddilac. Need to stiffen things up to get aggressive on a road course or autocross......5 minutes and you can make it so firm it feels like a totally different vehicle.

These parts look cool too. I tried to buy these parts from a vendor on this forum and they tried to steer me away from the Eibach as well.........Glad I went elsewhere, this system has been AWESOME.

Here are the Eibach R2 resoviors for adjusting your damper & and rebound




Knob can be turned by hand, it provide a small pin to adjust the shocks rebound. They provide a pin tool to easily adjust the ride height as well. They easily turn and you can raise or lower the car in a matter of minutes



For the price, these Bob's Billet LCA's are awesome. They are relitively inexpensive for milled LCA's and also have grease nipples installed. They make ZERO noise like some other LCAs that were previously on this car
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Old 10-16-2014, 03:44 PM   #18
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I'd say stick with FRPP's 1" drop kit. Very reliable and a real 1" drop only on all 4 corners.

I got a different supposedly 1" kit. But it dropped more than 1" in the rear, and then less than 1" in the front... it levelled the car if that's what you want... but I wanted to keep the raked stance.

KEEP IN MIND, when/if you change your tires, you'll likely end up with something slightly smaller in diameter. Many people go with, like 255/40x19 on front & 285/35x19 on rear which effectively drops your car another 8mm in the front and 10mm in the rear. So before you know it, you might be at a 2" drop!
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Old 10-17-2014, 07:29 PM   #19
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I am deciding Eibach Pro, does it keep somewhat of the raked stance? I know it drops 1"F and 1.5"R, my other consideration was BMR for 1.5 all around. I like to keep the raked look but not slammed since I use mine as a DD.
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Old 10-18-2014, 11:49 PM   #20
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The stock rake is about 1/2" so the kits that do 1" front & 1.5" rear pretty much level the car and eliminate the rake completely.
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Old 10-19-2014, 08:34 AM   #21
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I'd say stick with FRPP's 1" drop kit. Very reliable and a real 1" drop only on all 4 corners.

I got a different supposedly 1" kit. But it dropped more than 1" in the rear, and then less than 1" in the front... it levelled the car if that's what you want... but I wanted to keep the raked stance.

KEEP IN MIND, when/if you change your tires, you'll likely end up with something slightly smaller in diameter. Many people go with, like 255/40x19 on front & 285/35x19 on rear which effectively drops your car another 8mm in the front and 10mm in the rear. So before you know it, you might be at a 2" drop!
It also makes the wheel gap bigger too. A 295-35-19 gets you as close as you can get to the height of a 255-35 and the wheel stays almost the same.

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Old 10-27-2014, 04:33 AM   #22
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What about the maximum motor sport road and track kit. ..

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Old 10-27-2014, 08:24 AM   #23
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I have been very happy with my setup. If you are not racing, a set of Koni Yellows (one turn over full soft front and half turn over soft rear was "nice" on my RE-11s) and a stiffer front sway bar is all you would need. Control arms are nowhere near as helpful as many think (I still use factory arms and bushings on my car, and do exceedingly well from a performance standpoint, and they are still quiet and comfortable). If you want to make the car feel like the rear end is actually connected to the front end, forget a panhard bar entirely, convert to a watts link. I do not recommend mine for daily use, much too noisy and too many adjustments, go with the whiteline unit. It is expensive, but it is worth it (once you do a watts link, you never go back, especially on a street car). If you do not want adjustable shocks, look at Koni Reds (they are similar to the yellows set to full soft, which is more than enough for your average tire, and are also cheaper). I have been happy with my Steeda ultralite springs, great for street tires, never hit the bump stops. Take a look at stranoparts.com , I have saved a bunch of money going through Sam for suspension bits, usually about 10-20%...
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Old 10-27-2014, 08:49 AM   #24
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I have been very happy with my setup. If you are not racing, a set of Koni Yellows (one turn over full soft front and half turn over soft rear was "nice" on my RE-11s) and a stiffer front sway bar is all you would need. Control arms are nowhere near as helpful as many think (I still use factory arms and bushings on my car, and do exceedingly well from a performance standpoint, and they are still quiet and comfortable). If you want to make the car feel like the rear end is actually connected to the front end, forget a panhard bar entirely, convert to a watts link. I do not recommend mine for daily use, much too noisy and too many adjustments, go with the whiteline unit. It is expensive, but it is worth it (once you do a watts link, you never go back, especially on a street car). If you do not want adjustable shocks, look at Koni Reds (they are similar to the yellows set to full soft, which is more than enough for your average tire, and are also cheaper). I have been happy with my Steeda ultralite springs, great for street tires, never hit the bump stops. Take a look at stranoparts.com , I have saved a bunch of money going through Sam for suspension bits, usually about 10-20%...
What watts link do you use? Griggs? Fays? Steeda?
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Old 10-27-2014, 09:35 AM   #25
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Sorry, I should probably have specified that I have the Fays2 unit. I love the performance benefits, but I have to tweak it every so often due to the Heim joint tapping on the rod. It is not a structural issue, but annoying, also Heim joints do not like coal, they dry out within a single day of being parked at the office and make an annoying sound when traveling at low speed until I apply lubricant.
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Old 10-27-2014, 11:07 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by Deerslayer View Post
SUPER pleased with this setup and it LOOKS as good as it performs.

Eibach R2 adjustable Coilovers front and back (can control both stiffness and rebound in a matter of minutes without tools)
MMS Caster Camber Plates
Bob's Billet LCA's (beautifully milled LCA's that look and perform great)
UPR - UCA.....any good adjustable UCA, just get one with a good bushing, not a spherical bushing)
Eibach adjustable Panhard Bar


Best thing about this system is how EASY it is to completely change the look and performance of your car. Want more rake, lay under the car and make the adjustment in a matter of minutes. Want to slam it for just a day or show, can do it in minutes. Want a smooth daily driver, simply set the coilovers to soft and it rides like a caddilac. Need to stiffen things up to get aggressive on a road course or autocross......5 minutes and you can make it so firm it feels like a totally different vehicle.

These parts look cool too. I tried to buy these parts from a vendor on this forum and they tried to steer me away from the Eibach as well.........Glad I went elsewhere, this system has been AWESOME.

Here are the Eibach R2 resoviors for adjusting your damper & and rebound
Knob can be turned by hand, it provide a small pin to adjust the shocks rebound. They provide a pin tool to easily adjust the ride height as well. They easily turn and you can raise or lower the car in a matter of minutes

For the price, these Bob's Billet LCA's are awesome. They are relitively inexpensive for milled LCA's and also have grease nipples installed. They make ZERO noise like some other LCAs that were previously on this car
Super impressive setup. Any increased noise/clunking over stock with the Eibach coil overs? I have my eye on that kit but i've heard that the spherical strut mounts can be noisy?
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Old 10-27-2014, 11:16 AM   #27
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Any increased noise/clunking over stock with the Eibach coil overs? I have my eye on that kit but i've heard that the spherical strut mounts can be noisy?
This setup has made zero noise or clunking. The difference in the ride is SO different though. Driving in Dallas last summer, there is a LOT of road construction. With the HR Springs and Koni's hitting some pavement anomalies made you cringe. Loud bangs and super rough and worse, the car would bottom out hard. After installing these coilovers we were on the same roads and it was amazing how different it was. No more bottoming out, harsh bangs were gone. Night and day difference.
I had read a review of someone that said they had a clunk in the front. Something IMHO is setup wrong on that car. If you go with Caster Camber plates, you need to MAKE SURE you get the CC plate that is SPECIFICALLY for the R2 coilovers. If you get the wrong one, it will make noise because it is the wrong size. Maximum Motorsports makes CC plates especially for the R2 system coilovers.

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/Mu...uts-P1380.aspx
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Old 10-27-2014, 11:21 AM   #28
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This setup has made zero noise or clunking. The difference in the ride is SO different though. Driving in Dallas last summer, there is a LOT of road construction. With the HR Springs and Koni's hitting some pavement anomalies made you cringe. Loud bangs and super rough and worse, the car would bottom out hard. After installing these coilovers we were on the same roads and it was amazing how different it was. No more bottoming out, harsh bangs were gone. Night and day difference.
I had read a review of someone that said they had a clunk in the front. Something IMHO is setup wrong on that car. If you go with Caster Camber plates, you need to MAKE SURE you get the CC plate that is SPECIFICALLY for the R2 coilovers. If you get the wrong one, it will make noise because it is the wrong size. Maximum Motorsports makes CC plates especially for the R2 system coilovers.
Thanks for the info, I appreciate it. I basically want to lower my car, but retain stock-like ride quality. I'm not interested in a lowered setup that is stiff and bounces like crazy going down the road. I was going to go the Koni Yellow + springs route, but these sound like a better option.
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