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Old 11-05-2014, 10:54 AM   #1
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Lowered do I need a adjustable uca?

I just lowered my car and I have cc plates and panhard bar and lca relos at the moment. I will be getting a adjustable uca soon. I just want to know if I daily without the adjustable uca to set the pinion angle will I be ok for a couple months?


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Old 11-05-2014, 12:23 PM   #2
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Hope so because I've been without one for a year and a half
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Old 11-05-2014, 05:20 PM   #3
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You really should get one so you don't get any premature wear in the rear end.
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Old 11-05-2014, 09:43 PM   #4
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With the stock 2 piece driveshaft, no not really. If you upgrade to the single 1 piece shaft, yes you will need an adjustable UCA and to properly set the pinion.
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Old 11-05-2014, 10:29 PM   #5
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A user on these boards lowered without correcting his pinion angle on the factory driveshaft and had to replace his rear end 5 months later. Just food for thought.
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Old 11-05-2014, 10:58 PM   #6
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Just wondering. This may sound like a stupid question. So is every car that gets lowered (not only mustangs) have to get a new UCA. If not, what makes the mustang different from others.
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Old 11-06-2014, 04:55 PM   #7
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I'm curious as well, I got shocks/springs and panhard bar, was planning to do my suspension in 2 phases. LCAs and UCA after.
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Old 11-06-2014, 04:59 PM   #8
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I'm curious as well.. I got my springs and panhard bar and lower control arms. I will get a alignment done as well. I'm only dropping 1.5 inches so do I also need all this other stuff?

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Old 11-06-2014, 05:09 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Renuco612 View Post
Just wondering. This may sound like a stupid question. So is every car that gets lowered (not only mustangs) have to get a new UCA. If not, what makes the mustang different from others.
The mustang rear end it pretty basic on the S197 platform. To put it simply, you have a driveshaft that is the only thing that connects the rear end from the front end. Then you have a 3rd link (UCA) that holds the axle up to the body at a certain angle. Even with a 2 piece, you may not get vibration but your geometry is still off which puts added stress on both the seal to the diff and the diff itself.

You randomly see a post or a guy on facebook state their rear end is leaking but they don't know why. 9 out of 10 times they have lowering springs and the stock UCA.

Every car is different too, I've seen a car go for 50k miles and nothing happens but the next car the customer only had springs on for 2 weeks and the rear end is leaking. Its also on how you drive the car.
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Old 11-06-2014, 06:34 PM   #10
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Reading this kind of makes me regret buying a non adjustable BMR UCA. Why do they even make a non-adjustable if the adjustable is far superior, and based on pinion angle? Grabber? School me. Should I switch over?


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Old 11-06-2014, 07:03 PM   #11
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Reading this kind of makes me regret buying a non adjustable BMR UCA. Why do they even make a non-adjustable if the adjustable is far superior, and based on pinion angle? Grabber? School me. Should I switch over?


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They make non adjustable for ppl who aren't going to lower but want to cure the wheel hop of the stocker. Honestly, if that is the case where someone wants to cure wheel hop and keep the rest of the stock suspension then the Roush UCA is the one to get. Cures wheel hop and 0 NVH increase.

To answer the other questions, the front and rear U joints need to be within a few degrees of each other or there will be excessive vibration/wear and potential damage. If you lower the car with a 1 piece DS, you are going to change the DS angle so you'll want an adjustable UCA to set it correctly.
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Old 11-06-2014, 07:16 PM   #12
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Lowered do I need a adjustable uca?

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Originally Posted by scottydsntknow View Post
They make non adjustable for ppl who aren't going to lower but want to cure the wheel hop of the stocker. Honestly, if that is the case where someone wants to cure wheel hop and keep the rest of the stock suspension then the Roush UCA is the one to get. Cures wheel hop and 0 NVH increase.



To answer the other questions, the front and rear U joints need to be within a few degrees of each other or there will be excessive vibration/wear and potential damage. If you lower the car with a 1 piece DS, you are going to change the DS angle so you'll want an adjustable UCA to set it correctly.

I got the non adjustable based on what the consensus was when I ordered it. I'm lowered 1.5" with springs, struts, shocks, panhard, LCA's, relo's, UCA with bracket but went non adj. I'm more concerned with causing damage more than anything. I dragged it this past summer with no real issues. It's my daily, with occasional drag use. I don't think I'll ever step up to a 1 piece.


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---------- Post added at 07:16 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:15 PM ----------

No NVH whatsoever with the BMR and bracket btw.


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Old 11-06-2014, 10:03 PM   #13
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Reading all this is discouraging me from lowering my car. I want to stay reliable and not create any problems with a brand new vehicle. Would I need an UCA if I lowered it only 1"?
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Old 11-06-2014, 10:22 PM   #14
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Reading all this is discouraging me from lowering my car. I want to stay reliable and not create any problems with a brand new vehicle. Would I need an UCA if I lowered it only 1"?

A UCA isn't "needed". It all depends on what you're doing with your vehicle.


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Old 11-06-2014, 10:51 PM   #15
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A UCA isn't "needed". It all depends on what you're doing with your vehicle.


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I'm not planning on tracking the car. I just want it to look more aggresive. It's not a daily driver, well at least not yet incase my other car decides to take a dump. I actually really baby her. I haven't even taken the car over 80mph or driven her hard much. It will be all for looks.
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Old 11-06-2014, 10:54 PM   #16
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I'm not planning on tracking the car. I just want it to look more aggresive. It's not a daily driver, well at least not yet incase my other car decides to take a dump. I actually really baby her. I haven't even taken the car over 80mph or driven her hard much. It will be all for looks.

I'd DEFINITELY forgo it. Capitalization for emphasis bro. You do not need it for the uses of your vehicle. If you're just going down an inch, springs, and panhard. That's it.


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Old 11-06-2014, 10:57 PM   #17
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See I can't find a happy medium. This car is technically my daily, but I have a beater. I want to make some good power, drag it a few times a year, but still daily it.


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Old 11-06-2014, 11:09 PM   #18
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I haven't even taken the car over 80mph or driven her hard much. It will be all for looks.
140 on an empty backroad...
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Old 11-06-2014, 11:11 PM   #19
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140 on an empty backroad...

Lol I hit 135 on the interstate leaving the dealership with less than 100 miles on the odo.


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Old 11-06-2014, 11:14 PM   #20
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Lol I hit 135 on the interstate leaving the dealership with less than 100 miles on the odo.


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I've hit 120 on a bridge before. 70-80 is cruising for me on the highway.
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Old 11-06-2014, 11:15 PM   #21
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Lowered do I need a adjustable uca?

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I've hit 120 on a bridge before. 70-80 is cruising for me on the highway.

Lol ballsy


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Old 11-06-2014, 11:18 PM   #22
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Lol ballsy


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Which one?
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Old 11-06-2014, 11:27 PM   #23
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120 on a bridge


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Old 11-06-2014, 11:30 PM   #24
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Of course your occasional hard launches from light to light when them irritating rice rockets want a piece.
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Old 11-06-2014, 11:31 PM   #25
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120 on a bridge


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How is that ballsy? Also, it was on the downhill slope of the bridge.
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Old 11-06-2014, 11:53 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Grabber Blue5.0 View Post
You really should get one so you don't get any premature wear in the rear end.
DD or garage queen, I'm with GB on this one. An adj. aftermarket UCA will help more than it'll hurt (your wallet), in the long run (IMO).

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140 on an empty backroad...
Bragging how fast you've gone in a street-driven stock Mustang.
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