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Old 11-16-2014, 03:00 PM   #1
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'13 5.0 (Roush Stage 3) -- Recent Issue

To my Mustang Friends:

Recently purchased over a year the stock 5.0 (420hp) -- 2013 brand new.

Got out of the motorcycle game, and decided to put 20,000 dollars into my mustang.

I did get this done at the performance part a the dealership where I got it from.

List of all mods:
- Stage 3 Roush KIT (should be 650+ HP)-- as advertised
- Hop Kit, with wide tires (for Traction - I can WOT in first gear and not experience too much loss of traction)
- Full Roush Exhaust
- Gauges - shift light, boost, and last gauge can track HP, 0-60 and much more)

To be honest I am a good driver given the experience I feel like racing bikes on tracks as given me...however from the CAR experts I would like some advice on a few things below:

FYI - have had the supercharger for about 5 months

1) All stock 5.0 2013 come with Traction Control. I have put on a hop kit FOR traction control. Is the original traction control system prior to the mods Tuned to the power and RPM generated for 420 hp? or would it still work for the car which is now pushing 650. Main question: Should I be driving without the traction control, or would that additional traction control actually help?
Could there be any way the traction control might be fighting against change in RPM and Power?
(with a driving FEW tests I have concluded keeping traction control actually helps, even with the launch).


Most RECENT concern:
2) Upgrade was done with the best oil and most expensive racing spark plugs (3 weeks back). I do not think this applies to the issue I am will describe. I had tested it after the spark plug change, and it drove with much better throttle response.
Issue: Lately it all of a sudden got very cold in TEXAS ( anyone living north please don't laugh but it has been in 30s 40s.

Given it is my daily driver, there was a week I did not even take the car above 4k rpm. The other day (first time in the cold) where I exceeded 4k rpm in 3rd gear the car RPM was not smooth, and very slowly sent from 4 to 5k rpm. It felt like something was pulling the car down slightly..very hard to explain. 3 words best to describe: slightly jerky, slowed down in rpm acceleration (instead of opposite).

What could this possibly be?
The engine was warm by that point.

Last information which might be helpful: when I accelerated from 1st gear to 4th to redline in this condition, car ran perfect.
However, if from a roll, I have seen these issues as talked about above for WOT over 4k.

PLEASE help me out with suggestions?
Fuel Injection Issue?


Thanks
V
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Old 11-16-2014, 03:23 PM   #2
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This post is about the Advance Trak questions. I have a Ford Racing Tuned 2013 5.0 Stick. Trak control puts on the brakes for me at times when spinning occurs, even in in Sport Mode. When bone stock I shifted to second WOT breaking the tires loose and BAM, brakes hit hard on and off and kept the car in control while tossing me forward hard. Not good on the car at all, but kept it in control.

My take is that beyond spirited driving, Launching and power shifting with the Trak control just might be beating the fark out of the car.
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Old 11-16-2014, 03:36 PM   #3
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Thanks for the input..regardless on or off it will not jolt be back or forward, due to the system trying to apply breaks because of traction. I launch at a very low rpm 1.8, and it seems to gain traction perfectly prevents from sliding either way.

Do you have any suggestions on if this COLD weather/air might be compressing too much and either the chip or something has not been tuned to adjust for that? I am waiting for warmer weather (very surprising to be in 30s or 40s ever.

Could it be one of the fuel injectors need cleaning?-- someone suggested that, adding b-12

Please let me know if I maybe did not describe effectively the issue I am having.

Thanks
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Old 11-16-2014, 04:34 PM   #4
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I think your not encountering the Accure Trak jolts because you have great tires and anti-Hop-ups. Stock its can jolt the car hard if spinning or rear shift happens, because its designed to save the driver as it should on the street; but can beat the car on a track.

As for your Blower's tune causing power slow down {+4K rpm} on your cold days now, I would take it back to the tuner to see what might be causing it; especially if it colder then normal for your area. Frankly to trouble shoot the problem you will need to data log your cars key calibration parameters to a tablet or cell phone , or a tuner that can data log to see what is really pulling your car back down.
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Old 11-27-2014, 12:07 AM   #5
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Thanks. It was a injection flush and throttle body, for the rpm issue

Traction control. Cold tires and street loosing slight traction and kicking in


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Old 11-27-2014, 04:22 PM   #6
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When it's cold outside you loss traction and air is denser so you also gain more power, remember drive by wire so traction control could be working.I shut it off one time and punched it in 3rd gear,2013vmp supercharged boss and pulled to the right side went off the road,never turned traction control off again

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Old 12-01-2014, 08:55 AM   #7
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Hey thank you for being the first to pm me. I feel like on a drag race my stage 3, with hop kit really helps.

I agree. If driving with curves traction control needs to be on.

I have had the latest issue.

Please excuse me for not being knowledgable about cars. I can drive well because I used to race crotchrockets for 12 years but never worked on cars.

So lately I have had after driving hard for 3 minutes. Engine check light starts flashing. Research showed me its a some coding issue or tuning?

Last night. It flashed, starts misfiring as always for 2 minutes and then the engine light came on for 30 minutes full light. No flash. It is off now.

What do you suggest I do? What do you think the issue is? This only occurs if drivin hard for 5 minutes. But we should be able to do that.


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Old 12-01-2014, 02:14 PM   #8
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I would get a USB ODBII dongle at Amazon,
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007P14NPU
Dont install any software that comes with it, just get the $5 "Torque" app for smarphone.
Edit: Torque is not available for Iphone, Android app. Similar apps here, like dash command: http://appcrawlr.com/app/related/364

This tool and app will read your trouble codes and tell you what they are. Next use the Dash Command app to Data log your main parameters, and then send the log file to your tune shop and ask what could be happening in your motor? Anyone else with other suggested supported log parameters please add your thoughts. Something is not right and this is a first step to find out.


AFR, commanded and measured
MAF Rate
Short term and long term fuel trims
Engine load
Timing advance
Throttle position
Fuel pressure
Intake air temp
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Old 12-01-2014, 02:24 PM   #9
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I run my car hard as hell 24:7 with billet oil pump gears and take it above 7k on the daily! I track about twice a week. Only bad thing so far that happened is 3rd gear synchronizer got Fawked and gotts get new 3rd gear. Anyways...: im full bolt on cobra jet tuned on street tires runnin 12.21 at 118. Hope to see your numbers soon pal.


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Old 12-07-2014, 10:38 PM   #10
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I verified with roush.. A tune was done on the vin. Ford sent in the tune

Perhaps the misfire occurs when the due to traction control.

I have been advised that roush tuning is not the best..

Next steps are going to be a tune/dyno at a professional auto tuning shop.


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Old 12-07-2014, 10:44 PM   #11
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Check with vmp for a good tune
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Old 12-08-2014, 05:12 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chefron50 View Post
Check with vmp for a good tune
This
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Old 12-08-2014, 06:21 AM   #13
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Thank you. Have contacted. Will keep everyone posted. Thank you all for your help


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Old 12-15-2014, 11:37 AM   #14
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Thanks everyone for your input and help.

When my spark plugs were changed the "rubber cap" was never removed on cylinder 3.

Sad to say but all this was caused due to the tech never removing the cap on the spark plug on only one of them prior to installation.

Runs great now




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