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Old 11-21-2014, 07:39 AM   #1
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SR Performance Springs

I have a 13 5.0 I would like to put some lower springs on it not slammed just a decent lowering like the 1.5 inch that the SR Performance Springs give you. American Muscle has a good price on them at $169( they may actually be an additional 15% off right now). If I order those springs will they have all I need to lower my mustang? Or will I also have to buy additional parts?
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Old 11-21-2014, 07:46 AM   #2
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You'll need an adjustable panhard bar. Caster camber plates or camber bolts. An adjustable upper control arm with bracket to adjust your pinion angle back to within spec.


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Old 11-21-2014, 07:47 AM   #3
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The panhard bar because usually when u lower a car the body will shift to one side. The panhard bar will correct this.


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Old 11-21-2014, 07:52 AM   #4
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Thanks man! So instead of costing $160 this is about a $700 project! Nice to know! lol
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Old 11-21-2014, 07:54 AM   #5
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Probably. It def adds up.
Springs
Panhard
Cc plates or bolts
Adjustable uca
Mounting bracket^
Lower control arms(not a must)
Relocation brackets^
Full alignment
Yeah it adds up man haha but it drive likes a different car now


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Old 11-21-2014, 08:25 AM   #6
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You can get away with just lowering springs ... it is just the lower you go ... the more you have to upgrade.

At the least ... you will need springs & the adjustable panhard bar.

To do it properly & to ensure the OEM parts don't wear prematurely ... it is recommended to change out other items like the mounts, shocks, etc.

Best Regards,

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Old 11-21-2014, 04:03 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteCoyote View Post
I have a 13 5.0 I would like to put some lower springs on it not slammed just a decent lowering like the 1.5 inch that the SR Performance Springs give you. American Muscle has a good price on them at $169( they may actually be an additional 15% off right now). If I order those springs will they have all I need to lower my mustang? Or will I also have to buy additional parts?
You can definitely just throw the springs on your 2013 Mustang GT! With a 1.5" drop you won't need caster camber plates or anything like that that. I would recommend getting a pan hard bar so that you can recenter the rear after the car is dropped! Other than that, maybe just an alignment and you'll be in good shape. Those 2 mods can be completed at your convenience, though! You can still throw the springs on!

We do have a smoking deal on the SR Springs. They're on sale with our Pre-Black Friday sale so you can get them at a killer price now!

I hope this helps. Let me know if you have any questions or need some assistance! I'll gladly lend a hand.

-Dan
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Old 11-21-2014, 04:13 PM   #8
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You can definitely just throw the springs on your 2013 Mustang GT! With a 1.5" drop you won't need caster camber plates or anything like that that. I would recommend getting a pan hard bar so that you can recenter the rear after the car is dropped! Other than that, maybe just an alignment and you'll be in good shape. Those 2 mods can be completed at your convenience, though! You can still throw the springs on!

We do have a smoking deal on the SR Springs. They're on sale with our Pre-Black Friday sale so you can get them at a killer price now!

I hope this helps. Let me know if you have any questions or need some assistance! I'll gladly lend a hand.

-Dan
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Old 11-21-2014, 07:33 PM   #9
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I had the same idea but with EIBACH or STEEDA SPRINGS. I'm gonna wait until get a handling pack and do it right, it will take awhile before I'm able to do this but it seems like these vendors say buy my stuff and it'll work just great. I'm finding out these ME guys are trying to save me time and money, the voice of knowledge and maybe trial/error is priceless. Use this resource it will save you a lot of headaches.




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Old 11-22-2014, 12:07 AM   #10
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Do u guys not know your pinion angle is seriously affected when u lower it even 1.5? That's what I did and mine was way off. The front tires were towed out way out of spec and the pinion degree was 2 degrees off. So don't go spewing false information about not needing anything else because you do unless you wanna replace a u joint, pinion seal and wear out your front tires within a year. Jeez.


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Old 11-22-2014, 12:10 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by tj@steeda View Post
You can get away with just lowering springs ... it is just the lower you go ... the more you have to upgrade.

At the least ... you will need springs & the adjustable panhard bar.

To do it properly & to ensure the OEM parts don't wear prematurely ... it is recommended to change out other items like the mounts, shocks, etc.

Best Regards,

TJ

Exactly. I had to replace my uca and mount due to the pinion angle being completely off. And I'm lowered 1.5 as well. But he may find after an alignment like I did that he may or may not need cc plates or bolts. Lower control arms are not needed but I replaced mine anyway due to a lot of wheel hop afterwards


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Old 11-22-2014, 12:24 AM   #12
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Basic suspension setup for S197


-Adjustable UCA
-Non Adjustable LCAs
-Adjustable PHB or go all out with the Watt's Link
-Springs/shocks/struts
-CC plates


BMR also makes a really good tubular K and front A arms if you want to start getting really froggy. Do that and put the battery in the trunk and you knock 45lbs off the nose of the car and shift another 25 from front to back. Doesn't sound like much but that's huge on a car that's still a bit nose heavy even after they went to the aluminum blocks in 2011.
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Old 11-22-2014, 12:25 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottydsntknow View Post
Basic suspension setup for S197


-Adjustable UCA
-Non Adjustable LCAs
-Adjustable PHB or go all out with the Watt's Link
-Springs/shocks/struts
-CC plates


BMR also makes a really good tubular K and front A arms if you want to start getting really froggy. Do that and put the battery in the trunk and you knock 45lbs off the nose of the car and shift another 25 from front to back. Doesn't sound like much but that's huge on a car that's still a bit nose heavy even after they went to the aluminum blocks in 2011.


Exactly. That's the setup u need.


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Old 11-22-2014, 09:12 AM   #14
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Is there anywhere that has a kit with everything I need?
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Old 11-22-2014, 09:29 AM   #15
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Is there anywhere that has a kit with everything I need?
We have kits & expert knowledge that can put the package together for you ... but it greatly depends on your goals for the car ... (do you plan on tracking it) & your budget.

You can see our stage packages here - 2011-2014 Mustang Suspension Packages - Free Shipping!



Best Regards,

TJ
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Old 11-22-2014, 02:15 PM   #16
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I have just the sr springs in my car . no other mods for about 4 months now. everything seems fine...
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Old 11-22-2014, 02:41 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottydsntknow View Post
Basic suspension setup for S197


-Adjustable UCA
-Non Adjustable LCAs
-Adjustable PHB or go all out with the Watt's Link
-Springs/shocks/struts
-CC plates


BMR also makes a really good tubular K and front A arms if you want to start getting really froggy. Do that and put the battery in the trunk and you knock 45lbs off the nose of the car and shift another 25 from front to back. Doesn't sound like much but that's huge on a car that's still a bit nose heavy even after they went to the aluminum blocks in 2011.


Exactly. That's the setup u need.


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Old 11-22-2014, 05:51 PM   #18
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Everyone has their own opinion on what they "need" but in reality every car is different. Most people who install SR lowering springs really don't need anymore than a panhard bar I think it's funny when people think they need to spend thousands of dollars when it's not needed


2013 Sterling Grey GT/Brembo package/upper and lower Billet grill/SR performance lowering springs/J&M adjustable panhard bar/Roush axel back/AEM CAI
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Old 11-22-2014, 05:52 PM   #19
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Until u learn the hard way or listen to people that have you'll never learn how to take advice. That's all I have to say.


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Old 11-22-2014, 06:02 PM   #20
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I won't tell anyone what to buy . I can only share my own real life experience . Bought springs and installed them have 5k on the setup 0 issues and no other money spent . the end ....
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Old 11-22-2014, 06:49 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tj@steeda View Post
To do it properly & to ensure the OEM parts don't wear prematurely ... it is recommended to change out other items like the mounts, shocks, etc.
+1000

Quote:
Originally Posted by scottydsntknow View Post
Basic suspension setup for S197


-Adjustable UCA
-Non Adjustable LCAs
-Adjustable PHB or go all out with the Watt's Link
-Springs/shocks/struts
-CC plates


BMR also makes a really good tubular K and front A arms if you want to start getting really froggy. Do that and put the battery in the trunk and you knock 45lbs off the nose of the car and shift another 25 from front to back. Doesn't sound like much but that's huge on a car that's still a bit nose heavy even after they went to the aluminum blocks in 2011.
LCA relo brackets left out intentionally or just forgot? For $150 and 30 minutes I found them to help quite well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Offaxis View Post
I won't tell anyone what to buy . I can only share my own real life experience . Bought springs and installed them have 5k on the setup 0 issues and no other money spent . the end ....
5K miles may seem like a lot. But what are you comparing that too?

On average, it seems like the factory 05'+ suspension lasts about 80,000-100,000 miles. So run your springs-only and if you can get to 80,000 w/o problems from premature wear then maybe I'll believe in doing springs only next time.

But what ab rear traction loss? Altered CC and roll center? Still worth it?
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Old 11-22-2014, 06:50 PM   #22
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Nobody understands that lol. I tried to explain.


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Old 11-22-2014, 07:04 PM   #23
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Taking wear out of the equation, I'd really like to see a 100% stock S197 vs. lowering springs + adj. PHB S197 setup (because everyone thinks a PHB is a magical problem solver) in a drag and road race.

A lowered S197 might look better but I'm willing to bet the stock S197 would win both races and even have a better ride quality but hey, I'm no expert.
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Old 11-22-2014, 07:08 PM   #24
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I actually outrun my best friends 2014 5.0. Granted he is manual and I'm auto plus tuned with intake. I kill him honestly. Well. By a length


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Old 11-22-2014, 07:47 PM   #25
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What suspension mods does he/you have?
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Old 11-22-2014, 08:37 PM   #26
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Lol the bickering is amazing. I have the SR springs. My opinion is you CAN run them with a PHB, but I wouldn't run just those 2 parts for more than 6 months. Premature wear is inevitable when you lower the center of gravity of your vehicle without properly valved equipment and camber/caster adjustments. Do the 2 parts now, but don't wait forever completing the rest of the suspension because you could end up costing yourself more in the long run because you wanted to be cheap to achieve the look you wanted. Just my .02


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Old 11-22-2014, 08:48 PM   #27
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He doesn't have anything done to his car minus axle backs man. 3.73s too I have 3.15s


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Old 11-22-2014, 08:50 PM   #28
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I have 18x10 rear w invos. 1.5 eibach pro kit. BMR lcas uca relocation brackets and mounting bracket. Camber bolts with bama tune JLT intake borla exhaust.


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Old 11-22-2014, 08:51 PM   #29
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I have 18x10 rear w invos. 1.5 eibach pro kit. BMR lcas uca relocation brackets and mounting bracket. Camber bolts with bama tune JLT intake borla exhaust.


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What size tire and wheel offset? I have the SR's and am curious as to what I can fit back there.


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Old 11-22-2014, 08:52 PM   #30
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They're Godspeed omegas I think 49 offset rear and 295/35/18. I need a 40 or 45 though


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Old 11-22-2014, 08:54 PM   #31
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They're Godspeed omegas I think 49 offset rear and 295/35/18. I need a 40 or 45 though


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Cool. No rubbing? I'm having THEE hardest time deciding on wheels.


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Old 11-22-2014, 08:56 PM   #32
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No rubbing whatsoever


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---------- Post added at 09:56 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:55 PM ----------

40 offset my bad


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Old 11-22-2014, 08:59 PM   #33
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No rubbing whatsoever


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---------- Post added at 09:56 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:55 PM ----------

40 offset my bad


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Cool the wheel I'm looking at in the rear is a 19x10 with a 40 offset.


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Old 11-22-2014, 09:02 PM   #34
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Should work. My wheels are literally 1/8 of an inch of clearing the calipers.


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Old 11-22-2014, 09:05 PM   #35
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Should work. My wheels are literally 1/8 of an inch of clearing the calipers.


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I'm assuming you're talking about the fronts with the brembos? I won't be having that issue lol


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