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Old 12-05-2014, 07:32 PM   #1
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old mustang guy, gets 2014 GT needs advise

So 19 years a bought a 86 mustang, fell in love with the cars and have had over 11 of them, but all projects that never seen there potential. BUT! 17 hrs from now i fly out and pick up my brand new 2014 mustang GT. black on black 6 speed, 19" rims, with 3.73 LS. I'm thinking of upgrading to hurst billet plus 2 shifter, bama sf4/x4 tuner & SR performance 1.5" lowering springs. Is that a good start? Any idea what this car stock could run in 1/4 mile?
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Old 12-05-2014, 07:35 PM   #2
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look into H&R super sport springs. You will be very happy. Add some adjustable struts and shocks and you will love it.
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Old 12-05-2014, 08:08 PM   #3
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I'd avoid the Hurst shifter, I had one, looks kinda cool, but it makes for a terrible shifting experience, the SR spring are a nice price, but I hear they are very heavy spring rates, meaning a rough ride, I'd look into either BMR or Steeda springs. as far as 1/4 mi times, should run some where in the 12's stock. congrats on the stang man!!!

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Old 12-05-2014, 08:50 PM   #4
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Work on the shifting first.

I'd start with an MGW shifter over the hurst. It's widely debated as to which shifter setup is best, but you will never see someone with an MGW ever swap to a different one.

Also look into the blowfish bracket and maybe a transmission fluid swap.

After you get it shifting nicely, look into some control arms (both upper and lowers). Wheel hop is an issue...

Once you get the axle settled, look into tires. The 'Zero' on the Pirelli PZeros that come stock stand for how much traction you can expect out of them.

Once these things are sorted out, I'd then look into a tuner, exhaust, springs, etc.
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In stock form it isn't very uncommon to see mid to high 12's. Most of the issues you'll run into is shifting and traction related. With tires, a better shifter, control arms, and a mild tune you might see 11's with some practice and a good track.


And welcome to the coyote crowd. This 5.0 isn't similar to the one in that '86 so take it easy till you feel it out. PS your power is mostly above 3500RPM.
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Old 12-05-2014, 09:01 PM   #5
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old mustang guy, gets 2014 GT needs advise

Stock you'll run 12.8s in good air and hot pirellies


Get The new MGW v2 shifter setup


SR Springs W/ Adjustable steeda Panhard bar

Recommended getting a SCT Handheld & Tuned by Jon Lund or AED tune.

Focus on weight reduction before mods. Start it right.

- 1 pc aluminum DS
- K member
- Lightweight Rims & Wheels
- Lightweight flywheel
- Remove GT Strut Tower Brace
- Lightweight Battery
- List goes on.. ( Go on a diet )


Get some suspension work-

BMR LCA
BMR UCA
BMR Relocation Bracket
BMR Control Mount


If you get down to 3400 lbs or so with stock 370rwhp with some good tires you can be running mid/lowish 12s no doubt with any performance mods!


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Old 12-05-2014, 09:34 PM   #6
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great advise. i'll look into the shifter for sure, suspension aswell. instead of control arms and all that, couldnt i just go with traction bars and slicks?
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Old 12-05-2014, 09:36 PM   #7
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great advise. i'll look into the shifter for sure, suspension aswell. instead of control arms and all that, couldnt i just go with traction bars and slicks?

Gontrol arms will knock a tenth off of your 1/4. If your into 1320 racing then I highly suggest you just do the weight reduction first before anything else as it will be the most effective. Just my .02 I didn't know when I first bought mine. Now im full bolt Ons cobra jet weighing at like 3,850LBS.


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Old 12-05-2014, 09:37 PM   #8
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couldnt i just go with traction bars and slicks?
traction bars? what's this foreign object you speak of? lol



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Old 12-05-2014, 09:39 PM   #9
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great advise. i'll look into the shifter for sure, suspension aswell. instead of control arms and all that, couldnt i just go with traction bars and slicks?

Just remember Weight & good air is what makes a N/A car fast.


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Old 12-05-2014, 09:39 PM   #10
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well i cant go super crazy off the start. the car only has 11 KM ya thats right Canada
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Old 12-05-2014, 09:40 PM   #11
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well i cant go super crazy off the start. the car only has 11 KM ya thats right Canada

Okay focus on suspension before anything else then.

Get lowered with springs and a Panhard bar.

Get some control arms

Get some shocks and struts




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Old 12-05-2014, 09:42 PM   #12
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well i cant go super crazy off the start. the car only has 11 KM ya thats right Canada

But before you buy anything ..... Get 50 post count on here then contact AmDanBailer or AMAlex to get a 6% discount coupon code off all your purchases from Americanmuscle.com for LIFE, as long as you don't share the code.


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Old 12-05-2014, 09:42 PM   #13
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it hops that bad ?
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Old 12-05-2014, 09:43 PM   #14
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it hops that bad ?

Wheel hop isn't horrible, but it's noticeably there. How much do you have to throw down anyways?


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Old 12-05-2014, 09:47 PM   #15
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well i haven't in a well. my shops been busy and the shop race truck isn't getting done. lots of std racing experience with a old 4 spd. thou
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Old 12-05-2014, 11:01 PM   #16
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Sounds like you've got a lot of good advice. I'm an old drag racer, just sold my 9.80 Maverick (now in New Zealand) and sold my Dodge Ram hauler to get the 14 GT wTrackPak, Brembo's and Recaro's. I haven't had a Mustang since my 97 Cobra and the very first thing I did to mine was to lower it with Eibach Sportline and adjustable Whiteline panhard bar. The rest will come.
Everyone is correct, wheel hop is pretty bad if you can make it bite, with the 3:73's 1st and 2nd gear are pretty useless on the street and the Pirelli's just spin. I bought mine with 2700 miles and it has an SCT tuner with Airaid intake system. I'd be surprised if you could make it hook that with some DOT radials you could pull down low to mid twelves out of the box.
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Old 12-05-2014, 11:17 PM   #17
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Go to a drag strip where the track is sticky. Try and get a good 60' and you'll see how bad the control arms are. It will hop so bad you'll need to either get your foot out of it or risk breaking something. Yes it's that bad. Beefier lower control arms will fix it.

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Old 12-05-2014, 11:25 PM   #18
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I think both UCA/LCA would be in order.
Before I sold the drag car I saw more than one 11 and newer mustangs put DOT radials on, get a great bite and break the front shaft right off the MT82 at the drags in Northern California (Sac Raceway and Sears Point)...............If I was going to try and break into low 11's I'd really want to do something about the trans...........................on a positive note though, the gearing with the MT82 and my 3:73's is almost perfect. Not only for the street but for track days as well, 3rd and 4th are really great for coming into a corner.............hitting the apex in 3rd at 6500rpm and shifting into 4th to pull you through.........IMHO
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Old 12-06-2014, 12:53 AM   #19
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I have the Barton short throw shifter, and have been in a few newer 11+ gt's with steeda bushings, Hurst shifters, even some Chinese ones. Let me tell you from experience. The Barton short throw shifter is best shifter on the market. They are 100% made in the u.s, they get rid of the sorry *** rubber/poly shifter bushing with a solid aluminium mount, and they have uber short throws, with very positive notchy shifts.
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Old 12-06-2014, 05:56 AM   #20
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Quote:
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So 19 years a bought a 86 mustang, fell in love with the cars and have had over 11 of them, but all projects that never seen there potential. BUT! 17 hrs from now i fly out and pick up my brand new 2014 mustang GT. black on black 6 speed, 19" rims, with 3.73 LS. I'm thinking of upgrading to hurst billet plus 2 shifter, bama sf4/x4 tuner & SR performance 1.5" lowering springs. Is that a good start? Any idea what this car stock could run in 1/4 mile?
If track times are important then you would need to use a better spring like BMR and certainly a better tune. But because your car is a manual you will need to address the suspension.
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Old 12-06-2014, 07:34 AM   #21
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What year was the maverick? My first car was a hand me down from my dad, a 74' maverick that he swapped a worked 351w into. I had to rebuild it myself and that's how I learned cars, it's still my favorite car after everything it put me through lol!!


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Old 12-06-2014, 08:46 AM   #22
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For drag racing, automatics are the best way to go.I have a 14 GT and with a set of drag radials there is no wheel hop at all.
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Old 12-06-2014, 09:33 AM   #23
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^^ No **** Sherlock. If you'd pay attention and read the guy's posts you'd realize he didn't just fall off the turnip truck. Try adding something useful here. Kthxby

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Old 12-06-2014, 10:58 AM   #24
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What year was the maverick? My first car was a hand me down from my dad, a 74' maverick that he swapped a worked 351w into. I had to rebuild it myself and that's how I learned cars, it's still my favorite car after everything it put me through lol!!


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It was a 70, take a look at my pictures here. It originally had a Boss 302/Liberty 4spd in the late 70's/early 80's and ran in B/SM in NHRA. Used to launch at 7400rpm and shift at 8700rpm. The car was a low 10sec car back then. I switched over to a 408 Windsor I built and ran a Powerglide built by Mike's Transmission out of Lancaster, CA, the car was a consistant 9.801 car (it could have gone 9.50's but I didn't want to rebuild everything once a year) @133mph in the quarter with 1.401 60' times. It was a great car but serious racing is just getting too expensive.
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Old 12-06-2014, 12:45 PM   #25
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Love my Hurst combo'd with a Barton 2 post bracket...the classic look of the old days and a decent upgrade for me.
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Old 12-07-2014, 12:57 PM   #26
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Thanks a lot guys for pushing me the right way. just got back from getting the car. and here she is.
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Old 12-07-2014, 12:59 PM   #27
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Thanks a lot guys for pushing me the right way. just got back from getting the car. and here she is.

take off the 5.0 emblems, put on 3.7 emblems, get the RTR Decklid, leave all appearance stock, throw on a blower and be done with your build.


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Old 12-07-2014, 01:02 PM   #28
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lol no way i waited so long for that 5.0 to come back lol. thanks really thou for all your help. going suspension and shifter first.
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Old 12-07-2014, 01:04 PM   #29
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lol no way i waited so long for that 5.0 to come back lol. thanks really thou for all your help. going suspension and shifter first.

No problem pal! And after suspension and MGW V2 shifter, Go weight reduction and take all that weight off your rotational mass. With all suspension and weight reduction you will run better than full bolt on 5.0s. Promise you that.


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Old 12-07-2014, 01:06 PM   #30
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i couldn't find that shifter online do you have a link?
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Old 12-07-2014, 01:08 PM   #31
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It's called "MGW Race Spec Shifter" it solves all your problems, there's a thread on the forums about it if you use the search function.


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Old 12-07-2014, 01:11 PM   #32
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i couldn't find that shifter online do you have a link?

Also, since your paint is flawless right now please don't be a idiot!'

Take care of your paint!!!

So touch less car washes only!!!

Before cleaning the car with your MICROFIBER RAGS ONLY, make sure you spray your car off with water for about 5-10 mins to get off all the little micro rocks and dirt off the paint so you don't scratch it.

I recommend a microfiber glove with maguires gold glass soap.


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Old 12-07-2014, 01:15 PM   #33
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oh i know. it will be in the garage for the next 5 months sadly until the snow in gone. might cut and polish it in the summer. polish every second year when it comes out of storage
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Old 12-07-2014, 01:17 PM   #34
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oh i know. it will be in the garage for the next 5 months sadly until the snow in gone. might cut and polish it in the summer. polish every second year when it comes out of storage

Lol make sure you garage it right, there is so many steps to doing that right without hurting it.


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Old 12-07-2014, 01:18 PM   #35
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i own a shop that does it lol
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