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Old 12-19-2014, 09:46 PM   #1
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BOSS IM...TB....HELP

Ok so I have a 2013 mustang gt manual with 3.73 gears. So far I have jlt carbon fiber cai, kooks longtubes, offroad X, magnaflow competition catback and tuned by local shop. Made 433 hp and 409 tq. I plan on in the future going paxton charged in the next couple years but right now plan on getting the boss im. Question is should I go ahead and get a 90mm TB? And if so which is preferred.. the BBK or Ford racing? I know similar things have been asked but I have pretty much all bolt ons except cams so this is the next step for me. Let me know what yall think and why
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Old 12-20-2014, 03:27 AM   #2
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Old 12-20-2014, 05:08 AM   #3
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The throttle body will just be a paper weight at your current power level. Skip it and put the money towards something else.
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Old 12-20-2014, 09:39 AM   #4
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Your making great power on the stock intake. Why would you trade just a little more top end hp for a loss of torque? JMO. Good luck
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Old 12-20-2014, 10:19 AM   #5
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Hell with the supercharger just get the Boss intake and Nitrous! It amazes me the times guys are getting with that setup at the track. A lot cheaper too 😀


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Old 12-20-2014, 10:39 AM   #6
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Guess I'm going to be the first to say it those #'s are a little off giving your mods and pump gas.

Also a 90mm is pointless unless you port the boss manifold, as the opening is only 85mm

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Old 12-20-2014, 11:13 AM   #7
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Guess I'm going to be the first to say it those #'s are a little off giving your mods and pump gas.
I thought the same thing but wasn't going to bring it up.
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Old 12-20-2014, 11:39 PM   #8
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tuned by local shop. Made 433 hp and 409 tq.
I'm guessing your "local shop" owns that dyno.
Did they by chance tell you how much it is putting to the wheels?
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Old 12-21-2014, 07:12 AM   #9
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Its a local dyno. I have the dyno sheet for it
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Old 12-21-2014, 07:21 AM   #10
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Dyno sheets are meaningless. Dynos can be manipulated to show higher numbers. Yours have been either manipulated or the dyno isn't calibrated correctly. What does it run at the track?
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Old 12-21-2014, 09:01 AM   #11
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That's all I was saying. I would LOVE to be able to put the same mods onto my car that you did and be able to get 433hp and 409 lb ft of tq to the wheels on pump gas. Unfortunately your local shop needs to recalibrate their dyno. Because that ain't gonna happen with those mods on pump gas. No matter what tune you put on it.
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Old 12-21-2014, 03:51 PM   #12
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I love it when people start talking about Chassis dyno's. My first question is what type of dyno was it on, was it on a Dyno-Jet or inertia style or was it on a Super-Flow or load dyno. And if you are asking why?, there can't be much of a difference, then you need to do some more investigating/reading. One over the other can give you readings by as much as +/-50HP or more and unless they tune a lot of Mustangs/Fords and frequently have the dyno certified the numbers don't mean much.
I think chassis dyno's are a great tool, and as long as the operator and dyno are also well tuned, it's a great starting point rather than spending all day at the drag strip.
I would think the stock GT 5.0l should put out maybe 360HP at the rear tires, approximately, taking the OE number of 420HP at the crank. So to get a 73HP adder at the rear wheels doesn't seem unreasonable, with a good tune, headers and a good exhaust with no cats. Just guessing I would think that it would be just over 400HP to the rear wheels.
So, what are the 1/4 mile times on some of your cars with mostly external mod's such as rockhillgt has mentioned?
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Old 12-21-2014, 03:58 PM   #13
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Dyno sheets are meaningless. Dynos can be manipulated to show higher numbers. Yours have been either manipulated or the dyno isn't calibrated correctly. What does it run at the track?
Not being confrontational but just wondering what your best 1/4 miles times are and are you running skinny fronts and slicks in the rear? What is your best 60' time?
This past summer I did see some auto Mustangs running in the high 11's with 60' times in the 1.6/.7 second.
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Old 12-21-2014, 03:59 PM   #14
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His best time is 11.2 and that's on drag radials

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Old 12-21-2014, 04:09 PM   #15
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Not being confrontational but just wondering what your best 1/4 miles times are and are you running skinny fronts and slicks in the rear? What is your best 60' time?
This past summer I did see some auto Mustangs running in the high 11's with 60' times in the 1.6/.7 second.
11.2 @ 122 mph with my 60' averaging in the 1.5x range. I run skinny's on the front and a M/T drag radial.
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Old 12-21-2014, 04:21 PM   #16
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11.2 @ 122 mph with my 60' averaging in the 1.5x range. I run skinny's on the front and a M/T drag radial.
Sounds respectable for a 3600lb car. Do you know what your times were before putting the drag tires and converter in the car?
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Old 12-21-2014, 05:30 PM   #17
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Sounds respectable for a 3600lb car. Do you know what your times were before putting the drag tires and converter in the car?
My car weighs 3740 lbs. race weight.

I've been running drag radials since the car has been going to the track. I wouldn't run anything else.

I did the converter and Boss a Intake at the same time and picked up 6 tenths. But the converter was probably worth 5 tenths and dropped my 60' from 1.9x to a 1.5x.
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Old 12-21-2014, 06:37 PM   #18
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My car weighs 3740 lbs. race weight.

I've been running drag radials since the car has been going to the track. I wouldn't run anything else.

I did the converter and Boss a Intake at the same time and picked up 6 tenths. But the converter was probably worth 5 tenths and dropped my 60' from 1.9x to a 1.5x.
Don't mean to hijack this thread, but I'm always interested in 1/4 mile numbers............I've had drag racing in my blood for a lot of years.
So, I would assume you are pushing about 520/530HP at the crank, that's pretty healthy.
What is the flash stall on the convertor and what RPM are you doing through the traps.
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Old 12-21-2014, 06:37 PM   #19
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Grabberblue do you use your car as a dailiy driver? Or weekend driver.
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Old 12-21-2014, 07:10 PM   #20
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Don't mean to hijack this thread, but I'm always interested in 1/4 mile numbers............I've had drag racing in my blood for a lot of years.
So, I would assume you are pushing about 520/530HP at the crank, that's pretty healthy.
What is the flash stall on the convertor and what RPM are you doing through the traps.
I doubt I'm making that kind of power. My cars just really efficient and I get the most out of it. I cross around 7300 rpm. A 3.31 gear would put me right where I need to be but to me it's not worth the hassle. My 3.15's are working pretty good at the moment. Converter flashes to 3800 rpm. I may go with a higher stall though at some point.

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Grabberblue do you use your car as a dailiy driver? Or weekend driver.
Weekend only and just 6 months out of the year. I only have 5500 miles on it and it's a 2011.
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Old 12-21-2014, 07:18 PM   #21
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I just hit the 10k mark in my 2012. I jump on all these "boss intake" threads trying to determine if the guys who know what there talking about will recommend the boss intake. It seems to be a 50/50 for do and don't. I see you have it so ill count you as 2 sense you know what your doing lol. 51/50 is the score now.
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Old 12-22-2014, 04:37 AM   #22
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On the autos unless you haave a converter the Boss Intake isn't a good choice. You also need to be willing to rev it to 7500-7600 for it to be used properly.
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Old 12-22-2014, 10:34 AM   #23
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The stock intake must be so good to the point there are no aftermarket intakes for our cars.

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Old 12-22-2014, 10:54 AM   #24
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Lol wonder what my new tune would make. Seems like everyone with 4 mods makes over 400 and im
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Old 12-22-2014, 10:55 AM   #25
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I doubt I'm making that kind of power. My cars just really efficient and I get the most out of it. I cross around 7300 rpm. A 3.31 gear would put me right where I need to be but to me it's not worth the hassle. My 3.15's are working pretty good at the moment. Converter flashes to 3800 rpm. I may go with a higher stall though at some point.


Weekend only and just 6 months out of the year. I only have 5500 miles on it and it's a 2011.
For a small cube motor not making a lot of torque you need to be pushing at least 500hp and must hook really hard to pull 1.5's in the 60'.........IMHO
I know you don't put much stock in chassis dynos, but it would be interesting to see where the peak torque is on your car.............IMHO
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Old 12-22-2014, 11:05 AM   #26
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For a small cube motor not making a lot of torque you need to be pushing at least 500hp and must hook really hard to pull 1.5's in the 60'.........IMHO
I know you don't put much stock in chassis dynos, but it would be interesting to see where the peak torque is on your car.............IMHO
No wrong. You don't need anywhere near 500hp. This isn't the old school days anymore. The 5.0 has already been in the 9's completely NA makin 507hp

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Old 12-22-2014, 11:41 AM   #27
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For a small cube motor not making a lot of torque you need to be pushing at least 500hp and must hook really hard to pull 1.5's in the 60'.........IMHO
I know you don't put much stock in chassis dynos, but it would be interesting to see where the peak torque is on your car.............IMHO
The converter on the auto is the key ingredient some people aren't realizing can make such a big difference. It keeps your engine in the right powerband for longer... like a perfecting easing up of the clutch to keep your RPMs at 3,x00 + rpms.
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Old 12-22-2014, 12:44 PM   #28
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No wrong. You don't need anywhere near 500hp. This isn't the old school days anymore. The 5.0 has already been in the 9's completely NA makin 507hp

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Gee, and all of these years drag racing I just figured it took 642hp@6800 and 544lbft@5700 and Mike's Transmission Ultra Glide with loose 5000rpm converter to do 9.8's/133mph in the 1/4.
I am a believer in the Mod motors and have been since my 97 DOHC Cobra, and if you can show me cold hard facts about the N/A car that ran 9.xxxx's with only 507 rear wheel horse power I'll be even more of a believer.................
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Old 12-22-2014, 12:50 PM   #29
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The converter on the auto is the key ingredient some people aren't realizing can make such a big difference. It keeps your engine in the right powerband for longer... like a perfecting easing up of the clutch to keep your RPMs at 3,x00 + rpms.
I agree, and this ain't my first rodeo having drag raced for a few years. Although my car was only a high nine car I did use an Ultra Glide by Mike's Transmission in Lancaster, CA along with a loose 5000 stall 9" converter.......along with trans brake. When the Maverick was a B/SM car back in the late 70's and early 80's it has a Boss 5.0l and Liberty 4spd. It would come out of the hole at 7300/7500rpm and would shift at 8700rpm. Clutches and transmissions were kept as back-ups, but there is nothing more thrilling than dumping the clutch at that kind of rpm....nothing!!!
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