Rear jumps to the right while power shifting - Mustang Evolution

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Old 01-03-2015, 10:02 PM   #1
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Question Rear jumps to the right while power shifting

My '11 GT has manual transmission with the 3.73 gear, lowered with Steeda Sport springs, KONI STRT, squared 275/40R19 Michelin PSS mounted on Brembo pkg. 19X9 wheels. I already measured the rear and is almost 2" at both sides, the lowering did not affected is centered.

When I power shift the car, the rear of the GT jumps to the right (I think this happens when 2nd. gear goes in hard).
Any idea what might be causing this to happen? I think that I noticed this since my '11 GT was new before the mods.

Also I'm curious, twice I have gone head to head with different newer 5.0 with 420hp compared to mine (412hp), and in both occasion, they left me behind by one car distance. Is it really an advantage to have 8 hp more?
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Old 01-04-2015, 01:34 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M3hunter View Post
My '11 GT has manual transmission with the 3.73 gear, lowered with Steeda Sport springs, KONI STRT, squared 275/40R19 Michelin PSS mounted on Brembo pkg. 19X9 wheels. I already measured the rear and is almost 2" at both sides, the lowering did not affected is centered.

When I power shift the car, the rear of the GT jumps to the right (I think this happens when 2nd. gear goes in hard).
Any idea what might be causing this to happen? I think that I noticed this since my '11 GT was new before the mods.

Also I'm curious, twice I have gone head to head with different newer 5.0 with 420hp compared to mine (412hp), and in both occasion, they left me behind by one car distance. Is it really an advantage to have 8 hp more?
Get a panhard bar. Lowering sends the rear of the car one way no matter what. Scotty or Soccerluvr can explain more.

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Old 01-04-2015, 07:55 AM   #3
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Lower control arms, lower control arm relocation brackets, upper control arm and mount, better tires, etc etc. So many things need to be addressed.
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Old 01-04-2015, 08:08 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by Grabber Blue5.0 View Post
Lower control arms, lower control arm relocation brackets, upper control arm and mount, better tires, etc etc. So many things need to be addressed.

He's got good tires.


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Old 01-04-2015, 08:27 AM   #5
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I don't think 8hpr causes a car distance lead. But autos vs manuals can, with autos leading if the manual isn't sifted perfect and not losing tire traction.

My auto 2013 V6 pulled more than a car length on a 07-09 Manual GT V8 manual. It wasn't the extra few hpr, it was due to him spinning tires while I got off the line faster with no spin at all. This was on the first 2/3 of the straight away on a 2 mile oval track

Now on my GT MT-82, yes I dont have traction and have to keep launch correct or just spin and slide the rear end to the right...But I didn't buy it to drag race, I like the street & road feel of a manual and like criuses rather than drag racing.
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Old 01-04-2015, 08:31 AM   #6
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He's got good tires.
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Old 01-04-2015, 02:10 PM   #7
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Welcome to the club. Mine does it every time it hits 2nd at WOT.
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Old 01-24-2015, 05:29 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grabber Blue5.0 View Post
Lower control arms, lower control arm relocation brackets, upper control arm and mount, better tires, etc etc. So many things need to be addressed.
Which type of LCAs did you installed on your Mustang?
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Old 01-24-2015, 07:40 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by M3hunter View Post
Which type of LCAs did you installed on your Mustang?
Everything is in my signature.
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Old 01-24-2015, 09:45 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M3hunter View Post
My '11 GT has manual transmission with the 3.73 gear, lowered with Steeda Sport springs, KONI STRT, squared 275/40R19 Michelin PSS mounted on Brembo pkg. 19X9 wheels. I already measured the rear and is almost 2" at both sides, the lowering did not affected is centered.

When I power shift the car, the rear of the GT jumps to the right (I think this happens when 2nd. gear goes in hard).
Any idea what might be causing this to happen? I think that I noticed this since my '11 GT was new before the mods.

Also I'm curious, twice I have gone head to head with different newer 5.0 with 420hp compared to mine (412hp), and in both occasion, they left me behind by one car distance. Is it really an advantage to have 8 hp more?
Look at Grabber Blue's list of improvements. If you put some wider tires on (something a little stickier on say some 10/11" rims), put on some LCA and an UCA along with LCA relocation brackets it should help.
My 14 TrakPak Mustang which just has a can'd tune and Airaid CAI was useless in 1st and 2nd.........the tires would just spin and can get out of control if you keep the pedal down. With the 11" wide wheels and bigger tires it's not as bad as it was with the TrakPak wheels and tires.
I'm in the process of changing most of the rear suspension before the weather gets dry again.
I had a 97 SVT Cobra and it did the same thing (although a lot less HP) before I put the Steeda LCA and UPC arms along with relocation brackets and adjustable Kenny Brown panhard. After that it went as straight as my drag car even under full throttle shifts..................and it only 17" wheels.
You have some work ahead of you.
Oh, do you have a tune???????? If not get one..........of course it will make things even more interesting with your 3.73's and small tires...................IMHO
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Old 01-24-2015, 09:53 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M3hunter View Post
My '11 GT has manual transmission with the 3.73 gear, lowered with Steeda Sport springs, KONI STRT, squared 275/40R19 Michelin PSS mounted on Brembo pkg. 19X9 wheels. I already measured the rear and is almost 2" at both sides, the lowering did not affected is centered.



When I power shift the car, the rear of the GT jumps to the right (I think this happens when 2nd. gear goes in hard).

Any idea what might be causing this to happen? I think that I noticed this since my '11 GT was new before the mods.



Also I'm curious, twice I have gone head to head with different newer 5.0 with 420hp compared to mine (412hp), and in both occasion, they left me behind by one car distance. Is it really an advantage to have 8 hp more?

I had the same issue. Turned out to be a failed lca bushing.


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Old 01-25-2015, 08:14 AM   #12
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Are your LCA poly or roto or combined ends? Are they aluminum made? Are your brackets welded or not?
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Old 01-25-2015, 10:49 AM   #13
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These are the LCA I use.
TCA019 - Lower Control Arms, Boxed, Non-adj, Poly Bushings | 2005 - 2014 Mustang GT | Lower Control Arms | BMR Suspension - High Performance Suspension & Chassis

These are the LCA relocation brackets I use. They do not need to be welded and I don't recommend having them welded.
CAB005 - Control Arm Relocation Brackets, Bolt-on | 2005 - 2014 Mustang GT | Control Arm Relocation Brackets | BMR Suspension - High Performance Suspension & Chassis


I highly recommend an adjustable upper control arm and mount as well especially when you've lowered your car.
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Old 01-25-2015, 06:11 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grabber Blue5.0 View Post
These are the LCA I use.
TCA019 - Lower Control Arms, Boxed, Non-adj, Poly Bushings | 2005 - 2014 Mustang GT | Lower Control Arms | BMR Suspension - High Performance Suspension & Chassis

These are the LCA relocation brackets I use. They do not need to be welded and I don't recommend having them welded.
CAB005 - Control Arm Relocation Brackets, Bolt-on | 2005 - 2014 Mustang GT | Control Arm Relocation Brackets | BMR Suspension - High Performance Suspension & Chassis


I highly recommend an adjustable upper control arm and mount as well especially when you've lowered your car.
Thanks for the information Grabber Blue5.0
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Old 01-26-2015, 01:25 PM   #15
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OP, are you getting a wheel hop or is the tire spin causing you to drift?

The suspension parts will fix the wheel hop, but even once everything is "firmed up" you car is still likely to drift a little when on hard acceleration.
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Old 01-26-2015, 06:08 PM   #16
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OP, are you getting a wheel hop or is the tire spin causing you to drift?

The suspension parts will fix the wheel hop, but even once everything is "firmed up" you car is still likely to drift a little when on hard acceleration.
Maybe the tire spin cause me to drift, I really did not noticed the tire jumping, just going hard to the right side.
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Old 01-27-2015, 09:53 AM   #17
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If it is not hopping up and down (wheel hop), then what you are experiencing is pretty normal for a stock suspension Mustang. I'm not sure if you have owned very many performance cars with limited slip/posi/traction lok, but this is what they do.
Not trying to over simplify why this happens, but if you look at the direction the driveshaft turns and realize that the axle turns in the opposite direction the driveshaft is turning (driveshaft turns counter clockwise) the torque is trying to lift or "Unload" the right tire/wheel while planting the left tire/wheel....the right tire gets less traction and the right gets more...............and the car drifts right. With hard small tires and 3.73 gears things can get out of hand really fast.
Now with that said two things can help plant both tires better, one is to relocated the lower control arm and the other is change the angle of the pinion...........or do both depending on what you are trying to accomplish.
Again, our Mustangs have a Torsen type limited slip rearend which senses Torque Bias between left and right axle.........it's interesting to know that Dirt Track Sprint cars haven been using Torsen rearends for decades because you can set the bias tighter for one wheel than the other.............just a piece of trivia.
If you follow what Grabber Blue5.0 has replaced in his suspension those components should help the car go straighter...
assuming you get some bigger or stickier tires in the rear...IMHO
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Old 01-27-2015, 07:14 PM   #18
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Hi Olerodder,
Sounds logical. How to change the angle of the pinion?
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Old 01-27-2015, 07:24 PM   #19
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Hi Olerodder,
Sounds logical. How to change the angle of the pinion?
In the Mustang it means getting adjustable UCA/LCA.
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Old 01-28-2015, 11:23 AM   #20
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You really only need the adjustable upper control arm for pinion angle correction.

Get the non-adjustable LCA's, something with poly bushings will be louder, but will keep the suspension stiffer during launches.
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Old 01-28-2015, 12:23 PM   #21
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What I am about to say pertains to drag racing and road racing only.
A three link system like the Mustang is one of the best designs in my opinion for a performance street car because it allows the rear end to articulate, which produces less bind unlike a ladder bar/triangulated 4link/parallel 4link etc.
When you adjust the UCA and have solid LCA's you are actually putting the rear end in a bind...........even though it's not huge bind never the less it isn't totally free. This is the reason they make adjustable LCA's, to adjust the length of the arm as you pull the pinion angle back or push it forward to attain whatever angle you are trying to make.
Remember, when you are pushing the top of the rear end either forward or backward.................the axle housing is going to move in the same direction. This is not rocket science, just simple trigonometry.
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Old 01-28-2015, 07:21 PM   #22
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Thanks Guys, very interesting information.
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