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Old 01-06-2015, 03:56 AM   #1
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Shifter bracket problems

Installing my short throw about 2 weeks ago, I was tightening down the nut to the bolt that holds my shifter bracket and I had broken off 1 of the 2 bolts that hold the bracket in place.
So I welded the side with no bolt just to secure it.

Will I have any problems with this later on shifting wise?

And or maybe, can I go to ford and pay for a new little bolt?


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Old 01-06-2015, 08:01 AM   #2
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jeez, it was a 10mm bolt, what made you think you should gorilla it?

Anyway, the problem is that bolt is no bolt, it is a tacked in stud to the floorpan of the car. You'd need to pull the interior parts and drill out and replace the stud with an actual bolt and tack weld that to the floorpan.

It's a lot of work....
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Old 01-06-2015, 09:49 AM   #3
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Drive it if it's welded. Should hold right? Not a big deal imo.

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Old 01-06-2015, 10:10 AM   #4
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as long as you don't plan on removing the shifter and/or bracket anytime soon, you'll be fine, but as said, it's a good bit of work to repair properly


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Old 01-06-2015, 12:33 PM   #5
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So if I let's say decide to change shifters later on, I'll have to break the weld and weld a new shifter bracket on it?


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Old 01-06-2015, 02:07 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Black302Alex View Post
So if I let's say decide to change shifters later on, I'll have to break the weld and weld a new shifter bracket on it?


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you'll have to fix it properly, all other non stock shift brackets are aluminum.........


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Old 01-12-2015, 08:38 PM   #7
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I installed a Barton shifter and bracket. The instructions didn't have torque specs so I just did what I thought was right. Luckily mine didn't snap.
I also installed the Whiteline Trans bushing where you have to drop the trans cross-member. I was re-installing the big HD bolts and put 100 on my torque wrench. If you look at those bolts you'd think 100... As I was tightening the first of four bolts down however, I got a bad feeling.. I stopped Googled it and found where someone on the web suggested 55 ft lb. Right wrong or indifferent, I torqued them to 55 ft lb in the absence of instructions. As I tightened them to that setting, it felt right.
After wrenching on stuff for years you get a feel for this but we've all snapped a bolt off and then said, "I guess that was too much"
Since our vehicles do not have aftermarket manuals available to provide torque specs and such, I really think the manufacturers of products should provide torque specs to avoid this kind of problem.
I would have welded it too but good luck if you have to take it apart...
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Old 01-13-2015, 01:37 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Konawin View Post
I installed a Barton shifter and bracket. The instructions didn't have torque specs so I just did what I thought was right. Luckily mine didn't snap.
I also installed the Whiteline Trans bushing where you have to drop the trans cross-member. I was re-installing the big HD bolts and put 100 on my torque wrench. If you look at those bolts you'd think 100... As I was tightening the first of four bolts down however, I got a bad feeling.. I stopped Googled it and found where someone on the web suggested 55 ft lb. Right wrong or indifferent, I torqued them to 55 ft lb in the absence of instructions. As I tightened them to that setting, it felt right.
After wrenching on stuff for years you get a feel for this but we've all snapped a bolt off and then said, "I guess that was too much"
Since our vehicles do not have aftermarket manuals available to provide torque specs and such, I really think the manufacturers of products should provide torque specs to avoid this kind of problem.
I would have welded it too but good luck if you have to take it apart...

Thanks man this helps a lot!
But would it be that difficult to take the bracket apart, since after all one side is welded down?


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Old 01-19-2015, 01:14 AM   #9
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Does anyone have a clue about how much a bolt extraction would cost?
I tried doing it myself but can't seem to reach the bolt.
Thanks in advance guys.


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Old 01-19-2015, 04:00 PM   #10
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If you install a blowfish bracket you won't need those studs any more and you'll improve your shifting action as well. The cost of the BF bracket may end up cheaper than fixing that stud if you have to pay someone else to do it.
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Old 01-19-2015, 06:27 PM   #11
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If you install a blowfish bracket you won't need those studs any more and you'll improve your shifting action as well. The cost of the BF bracket may end up cheaper than fixing that stud if you have to pay someone else to do it.

What would I do with the bolts when installing the blowfish bracket?
And is the BF bracket better than the Barton 2 point bracket?


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Old 01-20-2015, 02:39 PM   #12
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What would I do with the bolts when installing the blowfish bracket?
And is the BF bracket better than the Barton 2 point bracket?


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Nothing. The BF bracket comes off of the transmission instead of the body, you just leave those bolts or studs unused. The Barton is mounts the same way as the OEM bracket which is different to the BF bracket. To use the Barton you still need both of those studs in tact.
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Old 01-21-2015, 02:48 PM   #13
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Couldn't you just drill out the center of the bolt and use an easy out? I haven't seen these bolts yet so not sure on the size. I plan on installing my bracket soon so I'm glad this came up.
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Old 01-21-2015, 03:22 PM   #14
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Couldn't you just drill out the center of the bolt and use an easy out? I haven't seen these bolts yet so not sure on the size. I plan on installing my bracket soon so I'm glad this came up.

I tried extracting the bolt, however could not get the drill to drill in dead center due to my mid pip and driveshaft being right under it, I didn't want to have to take my driveshaft off and all so I just bought the bf bracket


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Old 01-22-2015, 03:30 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Black302Alex View Post
I tried extracting the bolt, however could not get the drill to drill in dead center due to my mid pip and driveshaft being right under it, I didn't want to have to take my driveshaft off and all so I just bought the bf bracket


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Oh yeah that would have required a pancake and threaded bit.
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Old 02-01-2015, 09:54 AM   #16
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I have a Barton Shifter with the old style bracket (not the newer two post one), has been installed for a few years now. Last summer I heard an awful noise during normal driving and discovered both my shifter bracket mount studs had snapped off. Noise was the shifter bracket dropped, was rubbing on the driveshaft. Those two studs are either pressed or threaded into the floor pan between two layers of sheet metal. I tried to extract them, no way that was happening. Ended up drilling them out through the floor pan and installing a couple of grade 8 cap screws with nylon lock nuts from the top. Could not see welding the bracket to the floor as an option, hinders removal if you need to work on something.
These did not break from overtightening, no doubt this was a result of my driving habits. I can't be the first one to snap these off. When the new bracket replaces the soft OEM one and is firmly attached to the tail of the shifter, these studs must become the next weakest link.
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Old 02-01-2015, 08:34 PM   #17
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I installed the ford racing short shifter that comes with the bracket. It specifically tells you not to over tighten and you use the blue loc tite with the kit. I guess they added that to the instructions. I also watched a you tube video by a parts distributor and I believe they said to torque to 11 pounds. Which is snug with a little extra. They are dinky studs...


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Old 02-02-2015, 10:49 AM   #18
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Shifter bracket problems

I'm going with the MGW Race Spec shifter after all the shifters I researched for my GT TRACKPAC


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Old 02-02-2015, 11:36 AM   #19
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I'm going with the MGW Race Spec shifter after all the shifters I researched for my GT TRACKPAC


Hammer Down !!!

I have one and absolutely love it!


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Old 02-02-2015, 02:30 PM   #20
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Thanks for the insight guys!
But I ended up going with the blowfish shifter bracket! And it definitely changed the mt82!


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