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Old 01-21-2015, 07:37 PM   #71
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Originally Posted by UPRjoe View Post
Just a quick heads up for you guys as I have been seeing in very hot locations to reverse the direction of the can's in and out as this has proven to be better for the coalescing effect. Wayne and BigJay this is for you both to try and tell me how you like the difference in performance. Have the side that enters the outer can facing the valve cover and the center diffuser will act as the exit and then you will see a positive improvement without question.

Joe
Thanks for this info. I will run the can like I have it now, then switch it up at some point to see if I see any difference.

Wayne
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Old 01-22-2015, 02:41 PM   #72
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Just a quick heads up on the way the system performs best. The in is to the right into the UPR Catch Can Chamber and the out is in the left coming from the UPR Catch Can Center.

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Old 01-22-2015, 05:04 PM   #73
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So the best way is like you show in your Youtube video? In the above picture, the right side picture is the inlet path coming from the PCV valve and the exit path is depicted by the left side picture that is going through the three round perforated diffusers and out to the intake. Do I have this correct? Thanks.

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Old 01-22-2015, 06:30 PM   #74
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The air needs to come in through the C shaped chamber and exit out through the center hole to get the best performance. Basically it will come in and get pulled through the 3 screens to properly Coalesce and then it will condense as the clean air gets pulled out though the 3 stage diffuser system in the center.
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Old 01-22-2015, 07:00 PM   #75
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The air needs to come in through the C shaped chamber and exit out through the center hole to get the best performance. Basically it will come in and get pulled through the 3 screens to properly Coalesce and then it will condense as the clean air gets pulled out though the 3 stage diffuser system in the center.
Ok, so I need to turn my can around. Thanks for the new info. Does this mean that you will still be adding two additional stages to the can setup like you mentioned a few days ago?

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Old 01-23-2015, 09:43 AM   #76
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Absolutely on the two additional stages.

I have designed these kits for UPR to be modular and unconditionally improve the efficiency and oil separation characteristics to compensate for any temperature or conditions. I am also currently working on a few extreme applications that require it.

So I feel it's vital for me to deliver the same level of performance for all our systems and customers for a price that is lower than many can even manufacture such a complex oil separator for.

I want UPR to offer consumers the choice to do it right the first time and be expandable to upgrades and have the ability to convert it to work on other vehicles as well.
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Old 01-23-2015, 11:47 AM   #77
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Slightly Offtopic: I'm considering getting one of your UPR catch cans for my F-150 3.5L Ecoboost.

Are the 2 sides of the hoses already cut to length & ready, of do you just provide one length of hose & all the connectors? I can't tell what is provided b/c the pictures on your product pages show it several ways.

I've got it running the 50hp 87-octane tune, and before I run the 90hp 93-Octane tune, I figured I better get an oil separator.
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Old 01-23-2015, 12:37 PM   #78
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I'm considering getting one of your UPR catch cans for my F-150 3.5L Ecoboost.
Great Choices....

Are the 2 sides of the hoses already cut to length & ready, of do you just provide one length of hose & all the connectors?

All the hoses are cut to fit plug n play with the single valve and the dual valve kits 5030-80 or the 5030-80-CSS

I've got it running the 50hp 87-octane tune, and before I run the 90hp 93-Octane tune, I figured I better get an oil separator.

That's a must to be sure you keep your engine well protected

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Old 01-24-2015, 05:45 PM   #79
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Hi Joe,
Today I turned my can around like you have suggested and I will see how it does. I only drove about 20 miles with it the original way. I cleaned everything out with a q-tip even though there was not much visible oil.

I notice that in Post #72 that has the picture of the inside of the can, the center tube in your picture only has two holes going down the side of the tube versus the three that is on my center tube. Is there any reason for the difference?

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Old 01-24-2015, 06:13 PM   #80
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There is no difference between the flow or performance of the 4 hole or the 6 hole diffuser tubes. I am working on fine tuning the best possible control of oil separation at any temperature. UPR has spent so much time Tuning Airflow vs. Internal Volume in our System's to continually improve our products.

We just completed the first UPR Catch Can System on a 2015 Supercharged Mustang when MAK Performance spent the morning at UPR with us as we fit their new 2015 F150 Ecoboost with the cleanest system we have developed yet. As well as on their new 2015 Mustang GT Equipped with a H.O. Procharger Kit.

Check out the link to the NEW 2015 Ecoboost F150 Dual Valve Catch Can System by UPR.

Coming Soon 2015 Ecoboost Catch Can Systems for the 2.7L and 3.5L
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Old 01-24-2015, 07:03 PM   #81
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Ok, thanks. I think I heard that the grill on the new 15 F150's is not attached to the hood like the previous models. Is this correct and is this why you now have the can back inside the engine compartment versus just inside the grill like the previous versions? I assume the inside design is the same as the previous dual valve cans.

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Old 01-25-2015, 03:56 PM   #82
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Hey Guys,

I went to the track yesterday and ran the UPR can in the configuration recommend for more extreme conditions. I will say that my review is my opinion and I do have limited knowledge and my thoughts may not be correct. For the record my oil had one track day on it and I use Mobil1 0-40. I feel oil is an important aspect as certain oils burn off more than others and it will effect how much oil you catch in the can. So, results will vary car to car and I will run the can in reverse on my next track session in a couple of weeks. It should show which configuration is best for my application. One thing that could skew result is overall track condition. Yesterday was wet half the day with gradual improvement in overall traction. If I have a dry session more blowby would be expected. I ran 6 sessions at 30 min each and burned one full tank of fuel. (forgot to look at mileage approx. 180)

mounting location for testing.



My initial concerns were that the can sits on the radiator hose and it might move around and get quite hot. After several sessions the can never moved out of place. I did notice when I removed the can when I returned home it had worn a small hole in the mesh cover on the radiator hose. Easy fix with a rubber sleeve placed around the radiator hose to prevent wear through. The cans temperature was hot and could not be handled without gloves. I hear cooler is better for coalescing but, I have no substantial evidence that it effected the cans performance. It is very easy to access and service.

Break down after







After inspecting the unit I found the mesh screen that covers the exit tube to be damp with oil. This would be the last defense before leaving the can back to the intake. I'm not sure if that is good or bad. My thought is once it gets saturated it may allow oil to be pulled through, although, the exit tube has small holes and likely keeps this to a minimum. In checking the exit hose it had a shine to it and wiping with a cotton swab only produced a slight trace. I could rub the swab on my palm and see a slight shine. The exit hose was not wet and it was removed completely and checked and looked the same at both ends. all passages were checked for oil and looked similar no "wet" conditions. The amount of oil that was collected by the can was 2ml. This would be a more extreme conditions test and I would say the can performed well. If I were to continue to run the can in this current flow pattern and location I would likely pull the can apart and dry out the screen mesh after a track session.

Overall I am happy with the UPR can and the ability to break it down and service for more extreme conditions. I like that UPR is continually improving this product with updates. I like that UPR is focused on customer service and stands behind there products and is present on our forum. I really like the fact that to continue testing means I have to go back to the track!
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Old 01-25-2015, 04:26 PM   #83
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This is turning out to be an interesting topic with some good reviews. My UPR can will be here in a few days and cant wait to install it. I was concerned about the location also and maybe soon we can get some different mounting locations, options if its needed or recommended. Are any of you running a breather on the driver side with the UPR or did you leave that stock?
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Old 01-25-2015, 07:18 PM   #84
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Hey Guys,

Overall I am happy with the UPR can and the ability to break it down and service for more extreme conditions. I like that UPR is continually improving this product with updates. I like that UPR is focused on customer service and stands behind there products and is present on our forum. I really like the fact that to continue testing means I have to go back to the track!
I am glad to hear how pleased you are with my / UPR's hard work to design a top performing modular oil separator / catch can. I love how detailed you were in this study and the pictures you shared as well. Also it was very important to have a system that could be disassembled and reassembled with zero effort.

I have also been contemplating a remote mounting kit for the 5028-98-SC system, this will be something that will just be a simple upgrade to the existing kit once I decide where the best mounting location is. Lastly, I too have a passion for the track and always have a huge smile on my face when reading how much fun it was for you.
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Old 01-25-2015, 07:29 PM   #85
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This is turning out to be an interesting topic with some good reviews. My UPR can will be here in a few days and cant wait to install it. I was concerned about the location also and maybe soon we can get some different mounting locations, options if its needed or recommended. Are any of you running a breather on the driver side with the UPR or did you leave that stock?
I'm am also working on optional mounting locations. It requires some creative brackets and mounting ideas. I have already made sure that all of our existing kits will be able to be upgraded with the greatest of ease. As for the breathers on the drivers side of your engine, that would be a big mistake and lose power and ring seal. Remember the driver side is where the "METERED" fresh air comes from and is vital to the overall performance and drive-ability.

Normally aspirated engines should never have breathers on them to allow the PCV to do it's job properly. If you ever have questions just feel free to ask me and I'll share my experience with you.
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Old 01-25-2015, 07:33 PM   #86
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This is turning out to be an interesting topic with some good reviews. My UPR can will be here in a few days and cant wait to install it. I was concerned about the location also and maybe soon we can get some different mounting locations, options if its needed or recommended. Are any of you running a breather on the driver side with the UPR or did you leave that stock?
You can't run a breather with this setup. It acts like a vacuum leak letting un metered air into the loop. Leave it in stock configuration.

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Old 01-25-2015, 08:34 PM   #87
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Ok once it gets here i will put my stock hose on the driver side. it should be here tomorrow. cant wait.
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Old 01-26-2015, 01:33 AM   #88
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Hey Joe sense I installed breathers I also removed the check valve out of the passenger side pcv outlet. With the catch can do I put the check valve back in?

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Old 01-26-2015, 10:32 AM   #89
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Hey Joe sense I installed breathers I also removed the check valve out of the passenger side pcv outlet. With the catch can do I put the check valve back in?

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Put the pcv valve back in passenger side

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Old 01-26-2015, 05:31 PM   #90
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BigJay,
Thanks for the update. Does the top of your can have screw holes for a bracket at some later time? I wish mine did. I may have to find out about trading mine out for one with the holes.

It looks like you caught a good amount of oil for the amount of miles driven and the conditions.

I'm not sure what to think about the mesh around the diffuser tube being damp with oil. I guess putting miles on the car will determine if the mesh gets saturated enough to cause an issue.

I know for me, I'm going to drive mine about a 1,000 miles in this same configuration to see what my outlet hose looks like. I know that with my Bob's can with that amount of miles on it, only left a trace amount in the exit hose like you describe above.

I will be interested to see more results as more people buy this can.

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Old 01-26-2015, 11:09 PM   #91
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Hey Wayne,

I do have the mounting holes on the top of my can. I was thinking on a remote style mount using the D cell Maglite mounting clips roughly the same size. Using sheet metal screws you could mount it anywhere.

My thought on the mesh is to service it after every track event. For normal use I would check the mesh every fill up and provided there is no issues lengthen the service intervals. Maybe increasing the amount mesh would help if issues arise. I wonder if I had let the can sit overnight if the mesh would have drained out some more. It should be telling when I run the can in the reverse configuration in two weeks at the track.

It is nice to be able to break this thing down in 30 seconds and check progress. Heck how often do we check our oil level? The can should be no different its so simple.
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Old 01-27-2015, 05:41 AM   #92
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I should be receiving my UPR can later today. Is the configuration mentioned in post 72 for "extreme" conditions only or this is the manner in which it will perform best regardless of setup?
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Old 01-27-2015, 07:03 AM   #93
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I should be receiving my UPR can later today. Is the configuration mentioned in post 72 for "extreme" conditions only or this is the manner in which it will perform best regardless of setup?
I think you should try both for a set amount and see what works better for you. Keep us posted.

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Old 01-27-2015, 07:41 PM   #94
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Hey Joe you put an arrow on mine to show me which way the are flow should go but the side the arrow is on would make it come in threw the center and out the C shaped area. Is this correct? I see on post 74 you mentioned it differently.


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Old 01-27-2015, 08:44 PM   #95
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You can run it either way but Joe is now saying that running the inlet hose through the C shaped area first and then coming out through the center is the best way for the best performance. The way your arrow indicates is the way that the can was originally designed to flow.

I'm running mine the new way for now and how BigJay ran his during his track session. You could run it the way you have it arranged now just to see if you have different results compared to what we might get.

It looks like everyone now is getting the top with the drilled holes. If Joe comes out with a remote mount kit, I'm going to have to see if I can trade my top out for one with the drilled holes.

Wayne
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Old 01-27-2015, 09:33 PM   #96
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Thanks Wayne. Yeah I must have gotten one of the newest ones he made. I would love to mount it in a solid location

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Old 01-28-2015, 12:10 AM   #97
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Thanks Wayne. Yeah I must have gotten one of the newest ones he made. I would love to mount it in a solid location

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UPR will make hoses to length for you. Find a good mount location and measure up what you need.
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Old 01-29-2015, 06:47 AM   #98
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Sorry for the late reply. I have been away working on all the supercharged dual valve catch can setup for the 2011 to 2015 Mustangs and finally just got a break.
The arrow was for the setup prior to the reversal of the direction and running it through the C chamber of the can .

Just make sure to run it through the C first and not the center. I will also be revising the center screen making it shorter to only work as a baffle and improve the system a step further.

UPR designed our own exclusive line of oil separators to be the best performing and most flexible system allowing them to be able to utilize new advancements without having to ever buy a different system.

The most progressive way to support everyone is the fact that every new upgrade I come out with for the improved filtration in all our systems is that the improvements will be FREE and I only ask our customers pay the shipping to offer something no other manufacturers do.

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Old 01-29-2015, 10:27 AM   #99
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My version. No more oil in the intercooler on my ProCharged F150
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Old 01-29-2015, 02:25 PM   #100
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How about a coupon code for your UPR website for Mustang Evolution users, like a lot of other vendors on the site do 6%-10%?

Please PM me one, if you want to do one & that's the preferred method like American Muscle.
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Old 01-29-2015, 06:39 PM   #101
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I've driven about 200 miles since installing the new design catch can and since reversing the flow to come in at the C chamber and going out through the middle diffuser.

Since we are expecting bad weather this weekend, I took my car back to where I keep it during bad weather and decided to pull the can off to see how much oil it caught and if any oil got into the exit hose. Here is what I found.



This is how much oil it caught. I didn't have anything to measure the amount in and I left the oil in the can when I put everything back together.


I was not happy to see oil sitting in the bottom of the quick connect or to have oil drip off the quick connect fitting that was attached to the exit side of the can. I took apart and cleaned the inside pieces of the can and switched the flow back to the original way with the entrance coming through the middle and out through the C chamber to see how it does that way. I don't know why BigJay only had a film and I have a little puddle but it looks like I will have to have the additional filtering that Joe is coming out with for this can.

Wayne

---------- Post added at 06:39 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:38 PM ----------

I've driven about 200 miles since installing the new design catch can and since reversing the flow to come in at the C chamber and going out through the middle diffuser.

Since we are expecting bad weather this weekend, I took my car back to where I keep it during bad weather and decided to pull the can off to see how much oil it caught and if any oil got into the exit hose. Here is what I found.



This is how much oil it caught. I didn't have anything to measure the amount in and I left the oil in the can when I put everything back together.


I was not happy to see oil sitting in the bottom of the quick connect or to have oil drip off the quick connect fitting that was attached to the exit side of the can. I took apart and cleaned the inside pieces of the can and switched the flow back to the original way with the entrance coming through the middle and out through the C chamber to see how it does that way. I don't know why BigJay only had a film and I have a little puddle but it looks like I will have to have the additional filtering that Joe is coming out with for this can.

Wayne
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Old 01-29-2015, 07:40 PM   #102
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Holy crap! That looks like Sheet! Looks like you have some moisture in there as well. Have you just had a bunch of short trips during your 200 miles? I would say you caught about the same amount just looking at the picture. I will be running mine again on the 7th of Feb. in reverse fashion.
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Old 01-29-2015, 07:57 PM   #103
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What is the temperature there as the line has a milky coloring in the fitting and the oil in the can is black, which indicates condensation and that will help carry a tiny mist of oil and when mixed with the condensation it will allow the exit side to get a build up like this. The easiest solution that I am working to get around is stainless mesh in the bottom of the can that traps oil in the bottom. I just don't like the mess when cleaning it.
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Old 01-29-2015, 09:09 PM   #104
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The 200 miles were all done this week in about three days worth of driving. I have about a 60 mile round trip drive from home to work and back again so there were really no short trips. The temps this week have been from a low of around 32 degrees in the morning when I go to work to the high 50's to low 60's when I drive back home.

The oil that was sitting in the fitting did have some milky color to it compared to what was in the can.

The SS mesh around the middle diffuser really didn't seem saturated with oil because when I put a paper towel around it and squeezed, not much oil stained the towel. I also ran Q-tips down the middle of the diffuser and didn't get a whole lot of discoloration. Given that everything past the SS mesh didn't really seem like it had that much oil on it, I was surprised to see how much oil was in the quick connect fitting. I did run a Q-tip down the quick connect barb on the can and it did stain the Q-tip quite a bit.

I also did not disconnect the exit hose from the intake barb so I don't know how wet the quick connect at that end was.

Joe, SS mesh in the bottom of the can might be a viable solution. The Bob's Auto Sports can that I was running previous to your new can has the SS mesh in the bottom of the can with a round perforated diffuser on top of that. The intake hose goes into the side of the can where the mesh is so that the oil gets trapped there. The exit line comes out of the side of the can at the top. With this can, I only had very small trace amounts of oil film in the hose at the intake. As simple of a design as it is, it seems to work very well.

I'm hoping the additions you have planned for your can will prevent or severely limit what I found today. I don't know if a remote, cooler mounting place might have made a difference.

Wayne
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Old 01-29-2015, 09:21 PM   #105
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I forgot to mention that I run 5W-20 Motorcraft synthetic blend oil in my car which is thinner than what BigJay is running in his. I don't know if this made a difference in what got past my can compared to what BigJay's result was on his.

Wayne
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