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Pictures of new design UPR catch can.

20K views 181 replies 18 participants last post by  70monte 
#1 ·
Today I received the new design UPR catch can. On their website they have it under the 2015 5.0 Mustang but when I called they said it works on the 11-14 5.0 as well. I don't have a picture of it installed on the car yet as the car is stored at another location for the winter but I will take the can there in a few days and install it and take pictures.

Here are some pictures of the inside of the can as well as the lines and quick connect and one picture of it next to their classic design can.



 
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#82 ·
Hey Guys,

I went to the track yesterday and ran the UPR can in the configuration recommend for more extreme conditions. I will say that my review is my opinion and I do have limited knowledge and my thoughts may not be correct. For the record my oil had one track day on it and I use Mobil1 0-40. I feel oil is an important aspect as certain oils burn off more than others and it will effect how much oil you catch in the can. So, results will vary car to car and I will run the can in reverse on my next track session in a couple of weeks. It should show which configuration is best for my application. One thing that could skew result is overall track condition. Yesterday was wet half the day with gradual improvement in overall traction. If I have a dry session more blowby would be expected. I ran 6 sessions at 30 min each and burned one full tank of fuel. (forgot to look at mileage approx. 180)

mounting location for testing.



My initial concerns were that the can sits on the radiator hose and it might move around and get quite hot. After several sessions the can never moved out of place. I did notice when I removed the can when I returned home it had worn a small hole in the mesh cover on the radiator hose. Easy fix with a rubber sleeve placed around the radiator hose to prevent wear through. The cans temperature was hot and could not be handled without gloves. I hear cooler is better for coalescing but, I have no substantial evidence that it effected the cans performance. It is very easy to access and service.

Break down after







After inspecting the unit I found the mesh screen that covers the exit tube to be damp with oil. This would be the last defense before leaving the can back to the intake. I'm not sure if that is good or bad. My thought is once it gets saturated it may allow oil to be pulled through, although, the exit tube has small holes and likely keeps this to a minimum. In checking the exit hose it had a shine to it and wiping with a cotton swab only produced a slight trace. I could rub the swab on my palm and see a slight shine. The exit hose was not wet and it was removed completely and checked and looked the same at both ends. all passages were checked for oil and looked similar no "wet" conditions. The amount of oil that was collected by the can was 2ml. This would be a more extreme conditions test and I would say the can performed well. If I were to continue to run the can in this current flow pattern and location I would likely pull the can apart and dry out the screen mesh after a track session.

Overall I am happy with the UPR can and the ability to break it down and service for more extreme conditions. I like that UPR is continually improving this product with updates. I like that UPR is focused on customer service and stands behind there products and is present on our forum. I really like the fact that to continue testing means I have to go back to the track!
 
#84 ·
Hey Guys,

Overall I am happy with the UPR can and the ability to break it down and service for more extreme conditions. I like that UPR is continually improving this product with updates. I like that UPR is focused on customer service and stands behind there products and is present on our forum. I really like the fact that to continue testing means I have to go back to the track!
I am glad to hear how pleased you are with my / UPR's hard work to design a top performing modular oil separator / catch can. I love how detailed you were in this study and the pictures you shared as well. Also it was very important to have a system that could be disassembled and reassembled with zero effort.

I have also been contemplating a remote mounting kit for the 5028-98-SC system, this will be something that will just be a simple upgrade to the existing kit once I decide where the best mounting location is. Lastly, I too have a passion for the track and always have a huge smile on my face when reading how much fun it was for you.
 
#83 · (Edited)
This is turning out to be an interesting topic with some good reviews. My UPR can will be here in a few days and cant wait to install it. I was concerned about the location also and maybe soon we can get some different mounting locations, options if its needed or recommended. Are any of you running a breather on the driver side with the UPR or did you leave that stock?
 
#85 ·
I'm am also working on optional mounting locations. It requires some creative brackets and mounting ideas. I have already made sure that all of our existing kits will be able to be upgraded with the greatest of ease. As for the breathers on the drivers side of your engine, that would be a big mistake and lose power and ring seal. Remember the driver side is where the "METERED" fresh air comes from and is vital to the overall performance and drive-ability.

Normally aspirated engines should never have breathers on them to allow the PCV to do it's job properly. If you ever have questions just feel free to ask me and I'll share my experience with you.
 
#87 ·
Ok once it gets here i will put my stock hose on the driver side. it should be here tomorrow. cant wait.
 
#88 ·
Hey Joe sense I installed breathers I also removed the check valve out of the passenger side pcv outlet. With the catch can do I put the check valve back in?

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#90 ·
BigJay,
Thanks for the update. Does the top of your can have screw holes for a bracket at some later time? I wish mine did. I may have to find out about trading mine out for one with the holes.

It looks like you caught a good amount of oil for the amount of miles driven and the conditions.

I'm not sure what to think about the mesh around the diffuser tube being damp with oil. I guess putting miles on the car will determine if the mesh gets saturated enough to cause an issue.

I know for me, I'm going to drive mine about a 1,000 miles in this same configuration to see what my outlet hose looks like. I know that with my Bob's can with that amount of miles on it, only left a trace amount in the exit hose like you describe above.

I will be interested to see more results as more people buy this can.

Wayne
 
#91 ·
Hey Wayne,

I do have the mounting holes on the top of my can. I was thinking on a remote style mount using the D cell Maglite mounting clips roughly the same size. Using sheet metal screws you could mount it anywhere.

My thought on the mesh is to service it after every track event. For normal use I would check the mesh every fill up and provided there is no issues lengthen the service intervals. Maybe increasing the amount mesh would help if issues arise. I wonder if I had let the can sit overnight if the mesh would have drained out some more. It should be telling when I run the can in the reverse configuration in two weeks at the track.

It is nice to be able to break this thing down in 30 seconds and check progress. Heck how often do we check our oil level? The can should be no different its so simple.
 
#94 ·
Hey Joe you put an arrow on mine to show me which way the are flow should go but the side the arrow is on would make it come in threw the center and out the C shaped area. Is this correct? I see on post 74 you mentioned it differently.


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#95 ·
You can run it either way but Joe is now saying that running the inlet hose through the C shaped area first and then coming out through the center is the best way for the best performance. The way your arrow indicates is the way that the can was originally designed to flow.

I'm running mine the new way for now and how BigJay ran his during his track session. You could run it the way you have it arranged now just to see if you have different results compared to what we might get.

It looks like everyone now is getting the top with the drilled holes. If Joe comes out with a remote mount kit, I'm going to have to see if I can trade my top out for one with the drilled holes.

Wayne
 
#96 ·
Thanks Wayne. Yeah I must have gotten one of the newest ones he made. I would love to mount it in a solid location

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#98 ·
Sorry for the late reply. I have been away working on all the supercharged dual valve catch can setup for the 2011 to 2015 Mustangs and finally just got a break.
The arrow was for the setup prior to the reversal of the direction and running it through the C chamber of the can .

Just make sure to run it through the C first and not the center. I will also be revising the center screen making it shorter to only work as a baffle and improve the system a step further.

UPR designed our own exclusive line of oil separators to be the best performing and most flexible system allowing them to be able to utilize new advancements without having to ever buy a different system.

The most progressive way to support everyone is the fact that every new upgrade I come out with for the improved filtration in all our systems is that the improvements will be FREE and I only ask our customers pay the shipping to offer something no other manufacturers do.

Joe
 
#101 ·
I've driven about 200 miles since installing the new design catch can and since reversing the flow to come in at the C chamber and going out through the middle diffuser.

Since we are expecting bad weather this weekend, I took my car back to where I keep it during bad weather and decided to pull the can off to see how much oil it caught and if any oil got into the exit hose. Here is what I found.



This is how much oil it caught. I didn't have anything to measure the amount in and I left the oil in the can when I put everything back together.


I was not happy to see oil sitting in the bottom of the quick connect or to have oil drip off the quick connect fitting that was attached to the exit side of the can. I took apart and cleaned the inside pieces of the can and switched the flow back to the original way with the entrance coming through the middle and out through the C chamber to see how it does that way. I don't know why BigJay only had a film and I have a little puddle but it looks like I will have to have the additional filtering that Joe is coming out with for this can.

Wayne

---------- Post added at 06:39 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:38 PM ----------

I've driven about 200 miles since installing the new design catch can and since reversing the flow to come in at the C chamber and going out through the middle diffuser.

Since we are expecting bad weather this weekend, I took my car back to where I keep it during bad weather and decided to pull the can off to see how much oil it caught and if any oil got into the exit hose. Here is what I found.



This is how much oil it caught. I didn't have anything to measure the amount in and I left the oil in the can when I put everything back together.


I was not happy to see oil sitting in the bottom of the quick connect or to have oil drip off the quick connect fitting that was attached to the exit side of the can. I took apart and cleaned the inside pieces of the can and switched the flow back to the original way with the entrance coming through the middle and out through the C chamber to see how it does that way. I don't know why BigJay only had a film and I have a little puddle but it looks like I will have to have the additional filtering that Joe is coming out with for this can.

Wayne
 
#102 ·
Holy crap! That looks like Sheet! Looks like you have some moisture in there as well. Have you just had a bunch of short trips during your 200 miles? I would say you caught about the same amount just looking at the picture. I will be running mine again on the 7th of Feb. in reverse fashion.
 
#103 ·
What is the temperature there as the line has a milky coloring in the fitting and the oil in the can is black, which indicates condensation and that will help carry a tiny mist of oil and when mixed with the condensation it will allow the exit side to get a build up like this. The easiest solution that I am working to get around is stainless mesh in the bottom of the can that traps oil in the bottom. I just don't like the mess when cleaning it.
 
#104 ·
The 200 miles were all done this week in about three days worth of driving. I have about a 60 mile round trip drive from home to work and back again so there were really no short trips. The temps this week have been from a low of around 32 degrees in the morning when I go to work to the high 50's to low 60's when I drive back home.

The oil that was sitting in the fitting did have some milky color to it compared to what was in the can.

The SS mesh around the middle diffuser really didn't seem saturated with oil because when I put a paper towel around it and squeezed, not much oil stained the towel. I also ran Q-tips down the middle of the diffuser and didn't get a whole lot of discoloration. Given that everything past the SS mesh didn't really seem like it had that much oil on it, I was surprised to see how much oil was in the quick connect fitting. I did run a Q-tip down the quick connect barb on the can and it did stain the Q-tip quite a bit.

I also did not disconnect the exit hose from the intake barb so I don't know how wet the quick connect at that end was.

Joe, SS mesh in the bottom of the can might be a viable solution. The Bob's Auto Sports can that I was running previous to your new can has the SS mesh in the bottom of the can with a round perforated diffuser on top of that. The intake hose goes into the side of the can where the mesh is so that the oil gets trapped there. The exit line comes out of the side of the can at the top. With this can, I only had very small trace amounts of oil film in the hose at the intake. As simple of a design as it is, it seems to work very well.

I'm hoping the additions you have planned for your can will prevent or severely limit what I found today. I don't know if a remote, cooler mounting place might have made a difference.

Wayne
 
#105 ·
I forgot to mention that I run 5W-20 Motorcraft synthetic blend oil in my car which is thinner than what BigJay is running in his. I don't know if this made a difference in what got past my can compared to what BigJay's result was on his.

Wayne
 
#106 ·
Great feedback on everything and the system we built has a very important aspect that cannot be overlooked when building and oil separator. The new UPR multi-stage systems have been designed to give the most responsive and strongest vacuum possible for a catch can. The reason this is so critical is to ensure the best crankcase evacuation, which in in turn gives you the best ring seal, mpg and idle quality benefits.

So that is where the system has required the additional filtration to allow this without restricting the system and yet returning the best oil control. As for the thinner oil - It will get by the rings easier and also present additional challenges to proper oil separation because the mist / vapor can become so fine and travel through smaller filters and passages.

With that being said I love to have these variables thrown in so that we don't miss any angles on perfecting and developing the best systems for oil separation.

The new filters are only a few weeks away and I will let you guys know as soon as they are ready. The complex shapes and construction is what takes the most time to develop a winning product.
 
#107 ·
I will say the Motorcraft 5 20 has a noack of around 15% and full synthetic is around 6-8 depending on brand etc.

The can should just recover more oil if that were the issue. The amount of moisture present is bothering me. Being mounted in a spot that heats very quickly and the can going from 34 to 100 plus in short order will cause moisture condensation internally. Wet surfaces might allow oil to slip off and past filtration.

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#108 ·
Just another thought, if condesation is an issue running the can in current configuration would wet filter surfaces based on flow. Reverse the can and initial condensation is pulled back to the motor where it can be evaporated with heat. Making the filtration process first would allow condesation to clear the filter areas allowing the oil to stick again.

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#109 ·
I will say from what I have seen in the past, that in the colder months, I have seen evidence of condensation in my cans. When I drained my Bob's can out in the beginning of December, I had some milky fluid in with the oil. During the warmer months, I have never seen evidence of this.

As far as the flow path of this new UPR can, the way it was originally said to flow from down through the middle diffuser and out through the perforated discs is similar to the inside design of the SM catch can as well as the RX can. They both use perforated diffuser tubes. The RX can uses some SS mesh outside the tube but it's loosely packed in there. The SM can uses what I believe is almost like a screen type of material that the oil vapor has to go through before exiting the can. I think it may be three layers as well.

These two cans work well and is one reason I switched my flow path back to the original way to see if it changes my results.

Wayne
 
#110 ·
I just want to say that on my car, I believe my ring seal is pretty good. I am about 6,400 miles into this oil change and I have not added any oil and the oil level on the dipstick has probably gone down only about 1/4 of the way down. This is way better than it was when the car was new.
 
#111 ·
I only have 100 miles and a few passes down the track with my UPR can and no sign of oil in it yet. I did notice that it was very hot when I did want to take a look at the track but I dont see temp being a problem. What I really want is a different location. My can has already worn threw the mesh outlining on my radiator hose just in 100 miles. Im going to find a location and then talk to Joe about getting longer hose.
 
#113 ·
i have the flow going threw the C shape and out the center. not a drop of oil.
 
#114 ·
I am also working on a more remote location for this system as well. As for the catch can rubber the mesh that cover the radiator hose that is all it will ever do as I have been running the front mount cans for years on the hose and never any noticeable signs of wear over time. The fishnet that covers the hose is so flimsy that it can wear sometimes.

I am glad you guys are sharing this so I can continually work on cool new developments to cater to your requests when possible. I do listen and react for to ensure the best service and product.

Joe
 
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