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Old 01-30-2015, 07:04 AM   #106
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I forgot to mention that I run 5W-20 Motorcraft synthetic blend oil in my car which is thinner than what BigJay is running in his. I don't know if this made a difference in what got past my can compared to what BigJay's result was on his.

Wayne
Great feedback on everything and the system we built has a very important aspect that cannot be overlooked when building and oil separator. The new UPR multi-stage systems have been designed to give the most responsive and strongest vacuum possible for a catch can. The reason this is so critical is to ensure the best crankcase evacuation, which in in turn gives you the best ring seal, mpg and idle quality benefits.

So that is where the system has required the additional filtration to allow this without restricting the system and yet returning the best oil control. As for the thinner oil - It will get by the rings easier and also present additional challenges to proper oil separation because the mist / vapor can become so fine and travel through smaller filters and passages.

With that being said I love to have these variables thrown in so that we don't miss any angles on perfecting and developing the best systems for oil separation.

The new filters are only a few weeks away and I will let you guys know as soon as they are ready. The complex shapes and construction is what takes the most time to develop a winning product.
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Old 01-30-2015, 12:09 PM   #107
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I will say the Motorcraft 5 20 has a noack of around 15% and full synthetic is around 6-8 depending on brand etc.

The can should just recover more oil if that were the issue. The amount of moisture present is bothering me. Being mounted in a spot that heats very quickly and the can going from 34 to 100 plus in short order will cause moisture condensation internally. Wet surfaces might allow oil to slip off and past filtration.

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Old 01-30-2015, 12:22 PM   #108
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Just another thought, if condesation is an issue running the can in current configuration would wet filter surfaces based on flow. Reverse the can and initial condensation is pulled back to the motor where it can be evaporated with heat. Making the filtration process first would allow condesation to clear the filter areas allowing the oil to stick again.

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Old 01-30-2015, 01:54 PM   #109
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I will say from what I have seen in the past, that in the colder months, I have seen evidence of condensation in my cans. When I drained my Bob's can out in the beginning of December, I had some milky fluid in with the oil. During the warmer months, I have never seen evidence of this.

As far as the flow path of this new UPR can, the way it was originally said to flow from down through the middle diffuser and out through the perforated discs is similar to the inside design of the SM catch can as well as the RX can. They both use perforated diffuser tubes. The RX can uses some SS mesh outside the tube but it's loosely packed in there. The SM can uses what I believe is almost like a screen type of material that the oil vapor has to go through before exiting the can. I think it may be three layers as well.

These two cans work well and is one reason I switched my flow path back to the original way to see if it changes my results.

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Old 01-30-2015, 02:00 PM   #110
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I just want to say that on my car, I believe my ring seal is pretty good. I am about 6,400 miles into this oil change and I have not added any oil and the oil level on the dipstick has probably gone down only about 1/4 of the way down. This is way better than it was when the car was new.
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Old 01-30-2015, 05:17 PM   #111
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I only have 100 miles and a few passes down the track with my UPR can and no sign of oil in it yet. I did notice that it was very hot when I did want to take a look at the track but I dont see temp being a problem. What I really want is a different location. My can has already worn threw the mesh outlining on my radiator hose just in 100 miles. Im going to find a location and then talk to Joe about getting longer hose.
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Old 01-30-2015, 09:51 PM   #112
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I only have 100 miles and a few passes down the track with my UPR can and no sign of oil in it yet. I did notice that it was very hot when I did want to take a look at the track but I dont see temp being a problem. What I really want is a different location. My can has already worn threw the mesh outlining on my radiator hose just in 100 miles. Im going to find a location and then talk to Joe about getting longer hose.
Are you saying you don't have any oil in the can at all? How do you have the flow going?
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Old 01-30-2015, 10:44 PM   #113
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i have the flow going threw the C shape and out the center. not a drop of oil.
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Old 01-31-2015, 09:38 AM   #114
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I am also working on a more remote location for this system as well. As for the catch can rubber the mesh that cover the radiator hose that is all it will ever do as I have been running the front mount cans for years on the hose and never any noticeable signs of wear over time. The fishnet that covers the hose is so flimsy that it can wear sometimes.

I am glad you guys are sharing this so I can continually work on cool new developments to cater to your requests when possible. I do listen and react for to ensure the best service and product.

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Old 01-31-2015, 09:46 AM   #115
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It's a difficult proposition to develop a product that is perfect as evidenced by three customers having three different results. Having a can that is flexible in configuration is really making sence to me now.

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Old 01-31-2015, 11:20 AM   #116
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Either way I'm happy to have a can from the USA that is still being improved.

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Old 01-31-2015, 11:39 AM   #117
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It's a difficult proposition to develop a product that is perfect as evidenced by three customers having three different results. Having a can that is flexible in configuration is really making sence to me now.
Exactly, that is why the modular design / flexible took so long to release. I wanted to be sure every situation we encounter or gets throw at us can be solved with just tweaking our system. I have put so much time into the design to allow this and it has proven to be our biggest advantage.

With that being said it would be a nightmare for anyone to keep having to buy improved cans or different models. So this is the reason for the complexity and flexibility of our system. To make sure we have our customers budget and best interest at the top of the list.

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Old 02-04-2015, 02:19 PM   #118
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Hey Joe I have another 100 miles on the car with the UPR and not a drop of oil. Any ideas why not? I just hit 10500 miles on the car. When I drive it I get on it often. It smells like oil in the can but not even the walls are wet. The oil I use is what ever Ford put in. Maybe I don't get a lot of blow by. Mmmm

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Old 02-04-2015, 04:51 PM   #119
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Can you post a picture of how your can and hoses are setup. On another forum a guy posted a picture of his and he had the hose with the one way check valve in it on the wrong side of the can.

I can't imagine why you wouldn't have any sign of oil and even if your rings are seated very well, you would still get some oil in the can as no rings will seal 100%

Check the quick connect that attaches to your PCV valve. Does it show any signs of oil there?

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Old 02-04-2015, 05:54 PM   #120
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Hey Joe I have another 100 miles on the car with the UPR and not a drop of oil. Any ideas why not? I just hit 10500 miles on the car. When I drive it I get on it often. It smells like oil in the can but not even the walls are wet. The oil I use is what ever Ford put in. Maybe I don't get a lot of blow by. Mmmm
Please do share pictures of the install and which way the arrow is on the check valve to be sure everything is setup properly. The system should start showing signs of oil very quick.

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Old 02-04-2015, 06:49 PM   #121
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ok im at work right now but I will post some pictures ASAP. Car is not ideling any different. Runs fine.
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Old 02-05-2015, 12:27 AM   #122
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Here is the bottom and internals taken out. but still hooked up.
Pcv looks damp but the inside of the hose is dry.
Not the best lighting but inside the pcv looks kinda dry. But it still has just a little oil on the walls.
And the can after 200 miles is dry as the day I got it. .

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Old 02-05-2015, 12:30 AM   #123
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This is how my pcv looks inside. Is this the correct order of how the valve and sping go? Cause this is how it came out. The driver side is the stock vacuum hose.

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Old 02-05-2015, 05:11 AM   #124
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That is very strange. After 200 miles of driving on my car, pretty much everything inside the can was wet with oil except the screen on the middle diffuser.

Wayne
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Old 02-05-2015, 07:50 AM   #125
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Send me one for a Cyclone pony

Interesting product, I would like to try this can. A. Hunter P.O. Box 808 Seadrift,Tx. 77983
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Old 02-05-2015, 10:11 AM   #126
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I would check the flow. Disconnect the hose to the pcv start car and see if you are getting vacuum through the system. If yes, pull out pcv and attach to the hose are you getting vacuum through pcv. If yes, system should be working. Trying to rule out bad check valve in hose that is off the intake and or bad pcv valve.

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Old 02-05-2015, 11:56 AM   #127
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Okay so I started the car disconnected the hose that connects on top of the PCV valve and there's no air coming out while the car is idling. I've then unscrewed the PCV valve and took that out with the same results, no air coming out of the hole at idle.

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Old 02-05-2015, 12:05 PM   #128
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After removing the hose on the driver side it seems like there's more oil in this hose then on the passenger side. I caped off the CAI nipple so when I start the car no unmetered air makes it idle differently. And then I disconnected the hose from the driver side valve cover and there is air coming out of this side if I put my finger over the hole for a couple seconds then let it off you can hear the air escape.
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Old 02-05-2015, 12:16 PM   #129
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After removing the hose on the driver side it seems like there's more oil in this hose then on the passenger side.

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I believe there is an issue some where in the system because the drivers side tube should be drawing in ambient air from outside. On my car it is hooked to the air intake just in front of the throttle body (I've to an Airaid CAI)...........and if it is wet with oil the oil must be coming from the motor and going into the intake.
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Old 02-05-2015, 12:21 PM   #130
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I don't see how my car is untouched. How would the air just reverse from pushing air on the side that should suck air?

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Old 02-05-2015, 12:30 PM   #131
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When I start the car and unhook the driver side hose that hooks on the CAI there is a vacuum pulling in on the intake nipple. It's just before the throttle body so that makes sense right? So how would the driver side suck at the valve cover when air is being sucked when it's hooked up before the TB? It makes sense that the valve cover on driver side pushes air as the hose that it's hooked to helps pull air into the intake just before the TB.
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Old 02-05-2015, 12:37 PM   #132
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When I start the car and unhook the driver side hose that hooks on the CAI there is a vacuum pulling in. It's just before the throttle body so that makes sense right? So how would the driver side suck air when it's hooked up before the TB?
Joe can explain this better than I can, but the PCV system is meant to bring air into the motor (on the Coyote at the drivers side from the cold air intake flow) and draw it out through the passenger side and into the can and then into the intake. As long as the motor is sealed..........the PCV system will create a vacuum.
It almost sounds like there is a vacuum leak somewhere and/or the PCV system is plugged or non-functional. So, if the drivers side is pulling not pulling air in but pushing oil out, then something on the PCV side has to be plugged or there is a vacuum leak somewhere.................maybe Joe has run across this before..............
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Old 02-05-2015, 12:39 PM   #133
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How much vacuum is coming from the connection on the front of the intake manifold where the check valve connects to ? This is the connection that comes from the exit of the catch can and goes to the manifold. Try it with and without the hose connected and put your finger over the hole to see how fast it builds vacuum.

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Old 02-05-2015, 12:56 PM   #134
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Joe it has a strong vacuum at the point you told me to check. But I think I found the problem. This hose that came with the UPR only pushes air 1 way it seems. I can blow in the hose and air passes threw but if I blow from the other end it won't. Maybe the hose is backwards?

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Old 02-05-2015, 01:03 PM   #135
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Well that must have been it. I flipped the hose and now the driver side SUCKS air in at the valve cover. Wth lol.

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Old 02-05-2015, 01:24 PM   #136
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If you look close at the check valve you will see the directional arrow that indicates the air flow. I figured that was the case and am very glad that everyone here was so helpful with their interaction and true concern.

Thank you guys, this is what makes a quality forum and good fun for everyone.

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Old 02-05-2015, 01:26 PM   #137
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There you go that check valve in the upr hose should have a direction of flow arrow. Anyway glad you found it.

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Old 02-05-2015, 01:27 PM   #138
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Yeah I didn't see the little arrow till I took the hose off and started inspecting it. No wonder I had no oil in the can lol. I'm guessing the driver side pushed out air because that was the path of least resistance. But now it seems to be working. With the car started I can disconnect one of the quick disconnects on the can and there's vacuum unlike before.

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Old 02-05-2015, 01:32 PM   #139
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Ok so from here on out I can start giving my review and updates on my oil catching. so do you think there was any ill effects sense it was not hooked up right for a few hundred miles? Could it have hurt performance? Should I clean my throttle body now that I know oil was being passed in to my intake in front of the TB?

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Old 02-05-2015, 04:24 PM   #140
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What it did was allow crankcase pressure to build. It could effect performance and push blow by out of gaskets or seals or at the oil cap. I've had it happen on my 77 blazer and noticed when a leak appeared. Should be just fine you caught it quick.

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