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Old 01-18-2015, 02:21 PM   #1
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My 14 GT budget build-ur thoughts

My 2014 Mustang GT is in storage for the winter, so i've had a lot of time to read what you guys says on here. Thank you btw. I'm on a budget as the car is brand new and have other things on the go. this is my list in order. please let me know if i'm missing anything and just ur opinion. Please keep in mind i have warranty still on the car and it's a summer daily driver/ twice a month i'll be going to the drag strip.

Car. 2014 GT 6-speed manual, 3:73 LS gears.

1. MGW race spec shifter
2. SR Performance Braided Stainless Steel Hydraulic Clutch Line
3. SR Performance Adjustable Rear Lower Control Arms
4. Whiteline Rear Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets
5. SR Performance Double Adjustable Panhard Bar
6. SR Performance Panhard Bar Relocation Bracket
7. SR Performance Lowering Springs
8. Eibach Pro-Alignment Camber Adjustment Bolts
9. Moroso Air/Oil Separator
10. Ford Trackey
11. Flowmaster Outlaw Series Axle-Back Exhaust
12. Power Stop Street Warrior Brake Rotor & Ceramic Pad Kit
13. Custom made brake cooling vets
14. K&N Series 69 Typhoon Air Intake
non performance mods include
White Ford Racing shifter ball
Black window tint
50th anniversary floor mats
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Old 01-18-2015, 04:40 PM   #2
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skip the very expensive CAI as you'll gain nothing at your proposed mod level.

Skip the relo brackets until you determine if you need them. The springs you've chosen are pretty light drop. You might not.

Skip the camber bolts as they are dangerous.

Skip the adjustable LCAs as you don't need them and they cause problems with setup. A regular set of fixed length LCAs is more than sufficient. If you want a control arm change that gets at the heart of the geometry and axle wrap issues, buy and upper control arm, not the lowers.

Take all that money saved, buy a used pair of race stars or stock JY 15" or 16" wheel and cram a 28" tall slick on there for your trips to the dragstrip.

You got an 11 sec car doing it that way. You can see my sig for confirmation.
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2012 Premium GT, Candy Red, Brembo package, 3.73, MT82, Comfort, Tech, et al. Procal tune, Roush UCA, UMI poly LCA, GT500s, Steeda red bracket, Hoosier 28x10x16 bias drags. Best e/t 11.91 at 115.23 RIP
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Old 01-18-2015, 05:00 PM   #3
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I would suggest a Bob's Auto Sports catch can or the new 4 stage UPR catch can instead of the Moroso.
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Old 01-18-2015, 05:03 PM   #4
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That list needs work.
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Old 01-18-2015, 05:11 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5LHO View Post
skip the very expensive CAI as you'll gain nothing at your proposed mod level.

Skip the relo brackets until you determine if you need them. The springs you've chosen are pretty light drop. You might not.

Skip the camber bolts as they are dangerous.

Skip the adjustable LCAs as you don't need them and they cause problems with setup. A regular set of fixed length LCAs is more than sufficient. If you want a control arm change that gets at the heart of the geometry and axle wrap issues, buy and upper control arm, not the lowers.

Take all that money saved, buy a used pair of race stars or stock JY 15" or 16" wheel and cram a 28" tall slick on there for your trips to the dragstrip.

You got an 11 sec car doing it that way. You can see my sig for confirmation.






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Originally Posted by 70monte View Post
I would suggest a Bob's Auto Sports catch can or the new 4 stage UPR catch can instead of the Moroso.
+1 for both of these

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Old 01-18-2015, 05:21 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5LHO View Post
skip the very expensive CAI as you'll gain nothing at your proposed mod level.

Skip the relo brackets until you determine if you need them. The springs you've chosen are pretty light drop. You might not.

Skip the camber bolts as they are dangerous.

Skip the adjustable LCAs as you don't need them and they cause problems with setup. A regular set of fixed length LCAs is more than sufficient. If you want a control arm change that gets at the heart of the geometry and axle wrap issues, buy and upper control arm, not the lowers.

Take all that money saved, buy a used pair of race stars or stock JY 15" or 16" wheel and cram a 28" tall slick on there for your trips to the dragstrip.

You got an 11 sec car doing it that way. You can see my sig for confirmation.
Pretty good advice.
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Old 01-18-2015, 06:20 PM   #7
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Hey 5LHO for weighing in. I heard that the relocation brackets help with squatting effect. any truth to that? and yes slicks would be the next mod after this list, with 1 piece drive shaft and 31 spline axles. Like to hear what Grabber blue would change. odds are i'll do it. lol
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Old 01-18-2015, 06:36 PM   #8
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You want real squat control you need an adjustable upper arm and bracket more.

What relos will do on a car that doesn't need them is jack up the handling and braking.

I am a-ok on lowering springs rear and the rest Brembo brake package stock. 1.6 sixtys easy like that. Nothing awesome but, ok for street setup focussed on handling.

You gotta do some more research, man. Your car already has 31 spline axles and the stock DS will take what you're planning to throw at it, easy. If you are really on a budget, learn some more first before pissing money away on stuff that's not necessary.
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Old 01-18-2015, 06:42 PM   #9
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That Typhoon Intake will do nothing but lighten your wallet. Camber bolts are referred to as crash bolts for a reason. If one fails you better say a prayer.

The SR line is AM cheap line of suspension products. What are your plans for the car and or goals? Track car or just a fun street car?

As already mentioned you don't want an adjustable LCA.
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Old 01-18-2015, 06:42 PM   #10
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Well looks like you are going after the cheapest route for suspension. So scratch that and start over

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Old 01-18-2015, 06:49 PM   #11
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taking 5LHO's advise and urself GB, intake out and LCA adj. gone. that would free up money to go BMR upper and lowers. The car will be used daily driver in the summer and some street fun. but yes i want to start going to the track as much as i can and have some fun. can't go super crazy as the car is still brand new.
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Old 01-18-2015, 06:54 PM   #12
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LCA are fine but you don't need adjustables. UCA and mount are a necessity if you plan on lowering the car as is the adjustable panhard bar. Suspension parts can get expensive so it's important to have a plan and do it right once.
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Old 01-18-2015, 06:58 PM   #13
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K guess i got the upper and lower confused. it's hard not being able to drive ur car and just read, most of u are lucky. lol made the changes to my build list. thanks. BMR lowers fixed. BMR upper adj with mounts. anything else you want me to ***? lol
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Old 01-18-2015, 07:13 PM   #14
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UPDATED LIST
Car. 2014 GT 6-speed manual, 3:73 LS gears.

1. MGW race spec shifter
2. SR Performance Braided Stainless Steel Hydraulic Clutch Line
3. BMR Rear Upper Control Arm Mount
4. BMR Adjustable Rear Upper Control Arm
5. SR Performance Double Adjustable Panhard Bar
6. SR Performance Panhard Bar Relocation Bracket
7. SR Performance Lowering Springs
8. BMR Rear Lower Control Arms - Poly Bushings
9. Moroso Air/Oil Separator
10. Ford Trackey
11. Flowmaster Outlaw Series Axle-Back Exhaust
12. Power Stop Street Warrior Brake Rotor & Ceramic Pad Kit
13. Custom made brake cooling vents
non performance mods include
White Ford Racing shifter ball
Black window tint
50th anniversary floor mats
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Old 01-18-2015, 07:25 PM   #15
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Don't know why you'd need to relocate the l
panhard...a little adjustment is all that's needed, even a single adjust is fine for what you need.
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2012 Premium GT, Candy Red, Brembo package, 3.73, MT82, Comfort, Tech, et al. Procal tune, Roush UCA, UMI poly LCA, GT500s, Steeda red bracket, Hoosier 28x10x16 bias drags. Best e/t 11.91 at 115.23 RIP
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Old 01-18-2015, 07:27 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5LHO View Post
Don't know why you'd need to relocate the l
panhard...a little adjustment is all that's needed, even a single adjust is fine for what you need.
For slicks in the future. No?
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Old 01-18-2015, 07:31 PM   #17
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Pardon? What's that got to do with anything? I have a 10 inch wide slick tire under the fenders with the stock panhard...and I'm even running sn95 offset wheels.Panhard just lets you pull the axle over to centre a touch after some lowering.
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2014 Premium GT, SGM, Brembo, Auto, Tech, Comfort, etc. GT500s, Steeda UCA, VMP auto N/A tune. 100 shot nitrous on BBR tune. Best e/t 11.42 at 120.64

2012 Premium GT, Candy Red, Brembo package, 3.73, MT82, Comfort, Tech, et al. Procal tune, Roush UCA, UMI poly LCA, GT500s, Steeda red bracket, Hoosier 28x10x16 bias drags. Best e/t 11.91 at 115.23 RIP
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Old 01-18-2015, 07:34 PM   #18
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Oh ok. read on here that to get 10" on u had to have the bracket. My mistake.
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Old 01-18-2015, 07:40 PM   #19
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Oh ok. read on here that to get 10" on u had to have the bracket. My mistake.
You need to relocate the sway bar to run a 15x10

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Old 01-18-2015, 07:42 PM   #20
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Quote:
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You need to relocate the sway bar to run a 15x10

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thanks thought someone else said that. thats why it's on the list
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Old 01-18-2015, 08:33 PM   #21
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Ok, the sway bar and the panhard bar aren't the same. If you are going to run a 10" WHEEL, you need to relocate the sway bar. You can skip that too, as at your powet level, an 8 inch wheel will hold all the slick you are going to need.

I have a 10" wide TIRE on a 7.5 inch wheel, no problem.
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2012 Premium GT, Candy Red, Brembo package, 3.73, MT82, Comfort, Tech, et al. Procal tune, Roush UCA, UMI poly LCA, GT500s, Steeda red bracket, Hoosier 28x10x16 bias drags. Best e/t 11.91 at 115.23 RIP
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Old 01-18-2015, 08:36 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5LHO View Post
Ok, the sway bar and the panhard bar aren't the same. If you are going to run a 10" WHEEL, you need to relocate the sway bar. You can skip that too, as at your powet level, an 8 inch wheel will hold all the slick you are going to need.

I have a 10" wide TIRE on a 7.5 inch wheel, no problem.

Sweet thanks. you keep saving me money i'll have to mail u a gift.
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Old 01-18-2015, 08:38 PM   #23
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with this setup should i go with adj panhard or fixed?
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Old 01-18-2015, 08:39 PM   #24
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Just have fun. I've been doing this 30+ years, I've wasted a good bit of money on the way
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2014 Premium GT, SGM, Brembo, Auto, Tech, Comfort, etc. GT500s, Steeda UCA, VMP auto N/A tune. 100 shot nitrous on BBR tune. Best e/t 11.42 at 120.64

2012 Premium GT, Candy Red, Brembo package, 3.73, MT82, Comfort, Tech, et al. Procal tune, Roush UCA, UMI poly LCA, GT500s, Steeda red bracket, Hoosier 28x10x16 bias drags. Best e/t 11.91 at 115.23 RIP
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Old 01-18-2015, 08:44 PM   #25
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Honestly an adjustable panhard isn't necessary unless the axle being slightly off centre bugs you. I don't care as long as the tire doesn't hit. There us a good bit if room here as the fenders are rolled at the factory.
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2014 Premium GT, SGM, Brembo, Auto, Tech, Comfort, etc. GT500s, Steeda UCA, VMP auto N/A tune. 100 shot nitrous on BBR tune. Best e/t 11.42 at 120.64

2012 Premium GT, Candy Red, Brembo package, 3.73, MT82, Comfort, Tech, et al. Procal tune, Roush UCA, UMI poly LCA, GT500s, Steeda red bracket, Hoosier 28x10x16 bias drags. Best e/t 11.91 at 115.23 RIP
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Old 01-18-2015, 08:46 PM   #26
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Just have fun. I've been doing this 30+ years, I've wasted a good bit of money on the way
oh fun will be had. i've had tons of fast cars/trucks but this one is brand new and a whole new machine. havent had a mustang in 15 yrs. cant wait to drive it. well more then 800km. fell in love at 10yrs with a 92 black mustang my cousin he bought new. and love the old 69, 70 boss 429. this is my dream of both cars. styling and power.
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Old 01-18-2015, 08:47 PM   #27
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Honestly an adjustable panhard isn't necessary unless the axle being slightly off centre bugs you. I don't care as long as the tire doesn't hit. There us a good bit if room here as the fenders are rolled at the factory.
sweet then that would save some money and i could upgrade to a BMR instead in SR
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Old 01-18-2015, 08:49 PM   #28
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Totally agree...they weren't getting me into a fourth Mustang until they solved the 4.6 power problem.

Four Mustangs, starting with a 68, all 5.0s...this one is the best.
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2014 Premium GT, SGM, Brembo, Auto, Tech, Comfort, etc. GT500s, Steeda UCA, VMP auto N/A tune. 100 shot nitrous on BBR tune. Best e/t 11.42 at 120.64

2012 Premium GT, Candy Red, Brembo package, 3.73, MT82, Comfort, Tech, et al. Procal tune, Roush UCA, UMI poly LCA, GT500s, Steeda red bracket, Hoosier 28x10x16 bias drags. Best e/t 11.91 at 115.23 RIP
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Old 01-18-2015, 08:54 PM   #29
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Totally agree...they weren't getting me into a fourth Mustang until they solved the 4.6 power problem.

Four Mustangs, starting with a 68, all 5.0s...this one is the best.
ya i was a big fox boy, had 20 total. i like the 5.0 when it can back i wanted one. then i seen the 2015 and wasnt a fan. called around and in a 12 hour span i found the last black on black gt premium with a 6 speed and 3.73 1000 kms away. bought it over the phone and flew out to get in. i think i got a decent deal for being that desperate.
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Old 01-18-2015, 08:58 PM   #30
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Pretty much same here. Had an 88 lx 5.0 that I'd used every power adder under the sun on at one time or another. Owned it for 13 years and raced it for 10.

Really like the 12 style so I bought the last one in my region...it just happened to have every option I wanted and more for basic car price bc it was the last one and year end.

---------- Post added at 06:58 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:58 PM ----------

Pretty much same here. Had an 88 lx 5.0 that I'd used usedy power adder under the sun on at one time or another.

Really like the 12 style so I bought the last one in my region...it just happened to have every option I wanted and more for basic car price bc it was the last one and year end.
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2014 Premium GT, SGM, Brembo, Auto, Tech, Comfort, etc. GT500s, Steeda UCA, VMP auto N/A tune. 100 shot nitrous on BBR tune. Best e/t 11.42 at 120.64

2012 Premium GT, Candy Red, Brembo package, 3.73, MT82, Comfort, Tech, et al. Procal tune, Roush UCA, UMI poly LCA, GT500s, Steeda red bracket, Hoosier 28x10x16 bias drags. Best e/t 11.91 at 115.23 RIP
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Old 01-18-2015, 09:03 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5LHO View Post
Pretty much same here. Had an 88 lx 5.0 that I'd used usedy power adder under the sun on at one time or another.

Really like the 12 style so I bought the last one in my region...it just happened to have every option I wanted and more for basic car price bc it was the last one and year end.

---------- Post added at 06:58 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:58 PM ----------

Pretty much same here. Had an 88 lx 5.0 that I'd used usedy power adder under the sun on at one time or another.

Really like the 12 style so I bought the last one in my region...it just happened to have every option I wanted and more for basic car price bc it was the last one and year end.
thats what i did this year dec 6th was when i got mine on the year end blow out. i like the options the 05-12 have for the bumpers. i drove a few at a paint shop i worked at and loved them. but i'm short and with a stick im forward a lot and im close to the window didnt like that. never test drove the 14 before i bought. just liked the 10, and 12 i drove at the shop and said i'll take my chances.
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Old 01-18-2015, 09:04 PM   #32
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any need for a panhard bar support brace? does it do anything
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Old 01-18-2015, 09:59 PM   #33
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Don't know what that is but supporting the flimsy stock one seems pointless.

All a panhard does is locate the axle laterally. It doesn't take a lot of tech to do that.
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Old 01-19-2015, 12:36 PM   #34
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The Panhard Brace just frees up some space for the overaxle pipes, the factory pipes have a slight crush where they go over the axle to clear the factory Support brace. If you were going to use bigger diameter pipe over the axle the new Support brace gives you a slight bit of room, no need to change, unless you planning on using pipes over 3 inch diameter.
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Old 01-19-2015, 12:43 PM   #35
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The Panhard Brace just frees up some space for the overaxle pipes, the factory pipes have a slight crush where they go over the axle to clear the factory Support brace. If you were going to use bigger diameter pipe over the axle the new Support brace gives you a slight bit of room, no need to change, unless you planning on using pipes over 3 inch diameter.

Yeah I learned this out the hard way. Haha.


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