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Old 01-26-2015, 01:51 PM   #1
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Ok what are opinions on buying a manufacturer buyback?

My 2014 v6 mustang was totaled out and I'm getting a pretty good settlement from them. So now I'm shopping for a GT, and I found a premium 2011 5.0 with 15k miles for $22000. They said it was a manufacturer buy back and the person that sent it back said it was for a engine ticking noise. Ford replaced the engine. My question is, find a different car or could this possibly be a good deal? Click image for larger version

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Old 01-26-2015, 01:52 PM   #2
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If they replaced the engine I don't see why not, future resale value might not be as high though

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Old 01-26-2015, 01:55 PM   #3
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If they replaced the engine I don't see why not, future resale value might not be as high though

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I'm not way to worried about resale cause I'd probably run it to the ground anyways. But should I try and get a detailed inspection of it? Also would it be worth buying a dealer warranty or would it be better to spend more on a bit newer and non buyback car.


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Old 01-26-2015, 01:57 PM   #4
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I'm not way to worried about resale cause I'd probably run it to the ground anyways. But should I try and get a detailed inspection of it? Also would it be worth buying a dealer warranty or would it be better to spend more on a bit newer and non buyback car.


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The engine tick was a fairly common thing, so even if you buy a newer one it could pop up. Detailed inspection would be good and see if Ford will warranty the replacement motor for you as they should.

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Old 01-26-2015, 02:06 PM   #5
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The engine tick was a fairly common thing, so even if you buy a newer one it could pop up. Detailed inspection would be good and see if Ford will warranty the replacement motor for you as they should.

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Would it be an issue to get them to warranty it due to the fact that i wouldn't be buying it from a ford dealership?


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Old 01-26-2015, 02:12 PM   #6
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Would it be an issue to get them to warranty it due to the fact that i wouldn't be buying it from a ford dealership?


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They should still warranty it, when was it replaced?

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Old 01-26-2015, 02:18 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by RyanV6Lee View Post
My 2014 v6 mustang was totaled out and I'm getting a pretty good settlement from them. So now I'm shopping for a GT, and I found a premium 2011 5.0 with 15k miles for $22000. They said it was a manufacturer buy back and the person that sent it back said it was for a engine ticking noise. Ford replaced the engine. My question is, find a different car or could this possibly be a good deal? Attachment 174302


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I am assuming this is just from a "Used Car Dealer" and not a new car dealer..........right?
If there is no proof of the engine change, receipt or warranty and I don't trust "used car lots" anyway. I've never heard of a "Manufacturer Buy Back", before. I wonder if they were referring to the "Lemon Law" (I only know about the Lemon Law in California........on a new car, if you take the car into the original dealer 3 times before 18,000 miles and the dealer is unable to repair the issue within those 3 times...............the dealer/Ford has to replace the car/truck etc.) ................unless this used car dealer can provide proof..............I'd walk away and look for something else.
I would go to a Ford dealer and have him run the Vin, this way you should be able to see what work was done on the car and if the motor was really changed or not......IMHO
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Old 01-26-2015, 02:18 PM   #8
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It was replaced in 2012 then someone else bought it and drove it for about 8k miles and sold it to the auto dealer it's currently at.


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Old 01-26-2015, 02:20 PM   #9
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It was replaced in 2012 then someone else bought it and drove it for about 8k miles and sold it to the auto dealer it's currently at.


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Any paperwork for any of this?

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Old 01-26-2015, 02:20 PM   #10
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I am assuming this is just from a "Used Car Dealer" and not a new car dealer..........right?
If there is no proof of the engine change, receipt or warranty and I don't trust "used car lots" anyway. I've never heard of a "Manufacturer Buy Back", before. I wonder if they were referring to the "Lemon Law" (I only know about the Lemon Law in California........on a new car, if you take the car into the original dealer 3 times before 18,000 miles and the dealer is unable to repair the issue within those 3 times...............the dealer/Ford has to replace the car/truck etc.) ................unless this used car dealer can provide proof..............I'd walk away and look for something else.
I would go to a Ford dealer and have him run the Vin, this way you should be able to see what work was done on the car and if the motor was really changed or not......IMHO

Yes it's a lemon car I'm just trying to get an idea if the price and such is worth the potential risk of getting a BAD lemon. And yes it's a used car dealer which has me a bit more in the edge than if it were a ford dealer.


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Old 01-26-2015, 02:22 PM   #11
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The place I went to said they couldn't supply paperwork on the manufacturers work on it. The only way I was able to see when this happened was on carfax


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Old 01-26-2015, 02:22 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by RyanV6Lee View Post
Yes it's a lemon car I'm just trying to get an idea if the price and such is worth the potential risk of getting a BAD lemon. And yes it's a used car dealer which has me a bit more in the edge than if it were a ford dealer.


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I would probably stay away since itisnt a Ford dealer.

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Old 01-26-2015, 02:27 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by RyanV6Lee View Post
Yes it's a lemon car I'm just trying to get an idea if the price and such is worth the potential risk of getting a BAD lemon. And yes it's a used car dealer which has me a bit more in the edge than if it were a ford dealer.


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Ok, so do they have any proof that the motor was changed by Ford with a new crate motor?
If not and something goes south with the motor, it's on your hook and a new crate motor is $6k. The car has low miles but buying from a used car lot is risky, to say the least.
If it were me, I'd keep looking and at least look at only "new car dealers", even if they are Ford, Chevy, Dodge, or whatever, a reputable dealer is safer to deal with than a used car dealer.
When I was looking for my Mustang I visited only new car dealers................but that is just my opinion.
What zip code are you in or close to???
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Old 01-26-2015, 02:29 PM   #14
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The place I went to said they couldn't supply paperwork on the manufacturers work on it. The only way I was able to see when this happened was on carfax


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Without paperwork if something goes south with the motor it's on your hook..............a new crate motor is around $6k.
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Old 01-26-2015, 02:36 PM   #15
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Ok, so do they have any proof that the motor was changed by Ford with a new crate motor?
If not and something goes south with the motor, it's on your hook and a new crate motor is $6k. The car has low miles but buying from a used car lot is risky, to say the least.
If it were me, I'd keep looking and at least look at only "new car dealers", even if they are Ford, Chevy, Dodge, or whatever, a reputable dealer is safer to deal with than a used car dealer.
When I was looking for my Mustang I visited only new car dealers................but that is just my opinion.
What zip code are you in or close to???

I don't believe they have proof, I'd probably have to try and acquire information about the buyback myself they said they just 'believe' ford replaced the engine. And I'm near 30040 zip code. They are a couple other cars Ive been checking out one is a bit far and have to be shipped another is fairly close. Click image for larger version

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Old 01-26-2015, 02:37 PM   #16
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I don't believe they have proof, I'd probably have to try and acquire information about the buyback myself they said they just 'believe' ford replaced the engine. And I'm near 30040 zip code. They are a couple other cars Ive been checking out one is a bit far and have to be shipped another is fairly close. Attachment 174303Attachment 174304


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I drove 250 for my gt, it is kind of nice to have a sizeable road trip back to get comfortable with the car.

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Old 01-26-2015, 02:42 PM   #17
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I drove 250 for my gt, it is kind of nice to have a sizeable road trip back to get comfortable with the car.

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That is true my concern would be if I drove all the way to not walk out with a deal. Cause I'd be driving over 300miles.. GA-Kentucky


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Old 01-26-2015, 02:44 PM   #18
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That is true my concern would be if I drove all the way to not walk out with a deal. Cause I'd be driving over 300miles.. GA-Kentucky


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What I have done is had the deal set and ready to go after I confirm I want the car after a test drive,

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Old 01-26-2015, 02:45 PM   #19
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I would walk away. Then again I walked away from a beautiful 2014 gt/cs because they wouldn't come down $500. Glad I did. I like mine more lol.

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Old 01-26-2015, 02:53 PM   #20
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eh, I wouldnt touch it man, too man other clean examples out there
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Old 01-26-2015, 02:54 PM   #21
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What I have done is had the deal set and ready to go after I confirm I want the car after a test drive,

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That's a good idea there, so try and start negotiations over phone and if they reach you target price then say you'll come there to finalize?
And I'm willing to walk a way from a car I like if they won't negotiate enough with me. Cause patience is a big part of getting the right car, I've just seen a few of these deals and trying to work out which are most plausible.


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Old 01-26-2015, 03:00 PM   #22
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That's a good idea there, so try and start negotiations over phone and if they reach you target price then say you'll come there to finalize?
And I'm willing to walk a way from a car I like if they won't negotiate enough with me. Cause patience is a big part of getting the right car, I've just seen a few of these deals and trying to work out which are most plausible.


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YeAh I hammered out all the stuff over the phone, they got me approved for terms I liked. When I got down there I looked at the car took it for a drive and signed paperwork.

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Old 01-26-2015, 03:04 PM   #23
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That is true my concern would be if I drove all the way to not walk out with a deal. Cause I'd be driving over 300miles.. GA-Kentucky


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What Nate said, I also did everything on line, negotiated a price, had the sales guy send 30+ pictures of the car plus a video of the car and starting it up.......................so although I had to drive 11 hours to get the car, all I had to do was take it for a test drive, sign the papers and give them the money............and I drove away with a 2700 mile 14.
Do it over the internet, I would never buy another car any other way again.
I guess the bottom line is, if you don't like the car you drive back home empty handed...........but with a lot of pictures and videos it worked for me.

Cars for Sale: 2014 Ford Mustang GT Coupe in Marietta, GA 30060: Coupe Details - 389398585 - AutoTrader.com

Cars for Sale: 2014 Ford Mustang GT in Buford, GA 30518: Coupe Details - 388353906 - AutoTrader.com


Cars for Sale: 2013 Ford Mustang GT in Heflin, AL 36264: Coupe Details - 390097395 - AutoTrader.com

These are just few on autotrader.com in or near your zip
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Old 01-26-2015, 03:05 PM   #24
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Also, remember..............the dealer has a price.............and that's where you negotiate downward from............go get one!
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Old 01-26-2015, 03:32 PM   #25
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Yeah I saw a lot of those cars but I'm trying to keep a walk out price after negotiation around 25k if possible. 26k would be the max I'd pay but I'd rather have a bit extra left for mods.. As for calling the place to negotiate I'll probably try doing that. And yeah I bought my last car from a dealer and negotiated, though part was in thanks to my father being a penny pinching CPA he helped me save every penny lol


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Old 01-26-2015, 03:34 PM   #26
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Ok what are opinions on buying a manufacturer buyback?

Quote:
Originally Posted by RyanV6Lee View Post
That's a good idea there, so try and start negotiations over phone and if they reach you target price then say you'll come there to finalize?
And I'm willing to walk a way from a car I like if they won't negotiate enough with me. Cause patience is a big part of getting the right car, I've just seen a few of these deals and trying to work out which are most plausible.


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That's how I bought my car and when I got there they ended up finding me even more rebates than originally discussed.


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Old 01-26-2015, 03:44 PM   #27
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Yeah I saw a lot of those cars but I'm trying to keep a walk out price after negotiation around 25k if possible. 26k would be the max I'd pay but I'd rather have a bit extra left for mods.. As for calling the place to negotiate I'll probably try doing that. And yeah I bought my last car from a dealer and negotiated, though part was in thanks to my father being a penny pinching CPA he helped me save every penny lol


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All of the ones I sent you should fall within your range after you negotiate.
The second one looks to be a TrackPak car, with Brembo front brakes, 3.73 rear gears and if it is a TrakPak car it will have a Boss302 radiator and engine oil cooler plus upgraded suspension.
Also the third one has the Brembo brake package and 3.55 gears which was an option..................as for doing mod's, you will have to do less mod's on a TrakPak car as they already have 19x9 wheels unless you want to go with 20's. Just a thought....
"Pick Wisely Grasshopper" and remember there is one waiting .................all you need to do is negotiate, be firm but not an #*@hole.
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Old 01-26-2015, 03:51 PM   #28
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All of the ones I sent you should fall within your range after you negotiate.
The second one looks to be a TrackPak car, with Brembo front brakes, 3.73 rear gears and if it is a TrakPak car it will have a Boss302 radiator and engine oil cooler plus upgraded suspension.
Also the third one has the Brembo brake package and 3.55 gears which was an option..................as for doing mod's, you will have to do less mod's on a TrakPak car as they already have 19x9 wheels unless you want to go with 20's. Just a thought....
"Pick Wisely Grasshopper" and remember there is one waiting .................all you need to do is negotiate, be firm but not an #*@hole.

Yeah they seem like they could fall in the range.. Hmm I'll have to give those a look, I mean don't have anything to lose by checking out and try working them down to see if it would work or not thanks! Yeah brembos and track pack would reduce the modding costs a bit that's true. Looks like i have a busy week ahead checking out some of these cars then, I won't mind one bit though!


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Old 01-26-2015, 04:30 PM   #29
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One last thing, take the vin number an go to this web site. This will show you the manufacturers sticker price with all of the options...............more negotiating power, plus you know exactly what options the car has before you start your negotiations.

http://www.kwford.com/look-up-window...n_mercury.aspx
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Old 01-26-2015, 04:53 PM   #30
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One last thing, take the vin number an go to this web site. This will show you the manufacturers sticker price with all of the options...............more negotiating power, plus you know exactly what options the car has before you start your negotiations.

http://www.kwford.com/look-up-window...n_mercury.aspx

I will for sure! This is the first time I've heard of the site thanks for telling me about it!


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Old 01-26-2015, 04:59 PM   #31
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I will for sure! This is the first time I've heard of the site thanks for telling me about it!


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Old 01-26-2015, 07:11 PM   #32
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Two things you can never have enough of..........Horse Power and Information.

The first is the reason I'm going from a v6 to a 5.0 lol "shoulda had a v8!"


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Old 01-26-2015, 07:19 PM   #33
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The first is the reason I'm going from a v6 to a 5.0 lol "shoulda had a v8!"


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Sounds like you've got your priorities in the right order!
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