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Old 02-02-2015, 04:23 PM   #1
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2013 GT 6M Track Pack - where to start?

Hey there,

I just bought a 2013 GT with Track Pack and I'm wondering where to start...

This isn't my first rodeo with mustangs. Last one was 2007 GT and I modified it enough to be dangerous.

I just wanted to ask any other Track Pack owners what they modified first? I'm just a little confused because most people are modding stock GT's and I'm not sure what mods are better than what's already been done on the Track Pack version?

Induction? SCT Tuner vs TracKey? Does the Track Key even work on this car?

Suspension? LCA? UCA? panhard bar?

Exhaust (I'm actually happy with the FRPP exhaust (borla stingers I do believe)

Here is what I could find about the Track Pack:
- Performance front/rear brake pads
- GT500 Sta-Bars and rear LCA's
- Retuned struts and shocks (what does this even mean?)
- 3.73 axle ratio with carbon-fiber clutch plates
- Recalibrated AdvanceTrac®, traction control and anti-lock brakes
- Brembo brakes and retuned ABS and Traction control
- engine cooler
- Upgraded radiator
- Torsen differential that’s on Mustang Boss 302

I'm not looking to go too far with mods (I say that now after owning the car for a little less than a week) as this is a daily driver for me. I want to keep the car N/A, possibly add an intake and tune as well as possibly tighten the suspension a little (i.e. reduce wheel hop) and be nice and straight off the line.

So... I'm asking you O wise keepers of the forum... my car is still a virgin. What would you do with her?
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Old 02-02-2015, 09:36 PM   #2
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IMO-The springs, lca's and panhard bar are a good start.I started with the shifter.....cause it sucks. Dont spend your money on a CAI if you plan to keep it NA. The Track Key is not going to work on a 13 only on 14 produced 8/14 and later.
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Old 02-02-2015, 10:09 PM   #3
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I'm actually used to the shifter. It's pretty much the same as my older 2007. Same quirks I guess. That's the thing about having a car that's not perfect... You still can make it sing better than anybody else.

I'm going to put a little mileage on it before I jump the gun and do anything.


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Old 02-02-2015, 10:10 PM   #4
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Too bad about the track key though. I liked the sound of the lopey idle.


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Old 02-02-2015, 10:41 PM   #5
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2013 GT 6M Track Pack - where to start?

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Originally Posted by davesnothere View Post
I'm actually used to the shifter. It's pretty much the same as my older 2007. Same quirks I guess. That's the thing about having a car that's not perfect... You still can make it sing better than anybody else.

I'm going to put a little mileage on it before I jump the gun and do anything.


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I bought a 14 GT, not a tracpack car but I couldn't stand the shifter. It actually made me start to dislike the car. At 750 miles, I installed the Ford racing short shifter. Pricey, but worth every last penny. Completely transformed the car. Now I look forward to every shift. I recommend this as anyone's first mod. Don't settle because your last one was the same way. I bet you will kick yourself for not upgrading your last car if you do it to this car.


Just enjoying my 420 HP daily driver
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Old 02-03-2015, 12:03 AM   #6
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Too bad about the track key though. I liked the sound of the lopey idle.


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You can still get it just in the track cal version. Same tune. That's what I did.



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Old 02-03-2015, 11:32 AM   #7
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You can still get it just in the track cal version. Same tune. That's what I did.



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Nice. I think thats in her future.
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Old 02-03-2015, 01:14 PM   #8
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Fords Racing tune is definetly better than stock (M-9603-MGTB), others good as well. Shifter and new mount is definetly better as well. All Mustangs ride high. Lowering springs, track Pac sway bars should be good. LCA's and UCA's for wheel hop. Relocation brackets for lowering as well. Your brakes are good as is, same as Boss and older GT500's. Wider rear tires at some point. Wheels can be pushed to 285's. 275's is normal, 295's a little big. Oh and the most important Change is to get rid of the prop rod for the hood!
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Old 02-03-2015, 03:52 PM   #9
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So what's enough to be dangerous?

I can be dangerous in a I4 or V8 and anything in between in stock form.....
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Old 02-03-2015, 05:29 PM   #10
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I'm dangerous on my 26hp riding lawn mower, just ask my neighbors. I tear s*** up.


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Old 02-03-2015, 05:57 PM   #11
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You want part number m-14204-mgttc actually for the ford racing track cal tune.


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Old 02-03-2015, 06:43 PM   #12
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I stand corrected WRT tune. Assumed this was for the 2014's only. Wonder what the differences are between the two. I've got a FRPP whipple now so got rid MGTC tune.
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Old 02-03-2015, 07:13 PM   #13
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Fords Racing tune is definetly better than stock (M-9603-MGTB), others good as well. Shifter and new mount is definetly better as well. All Mustangs ride high. Lowering springs, track Pac sway bars should be good. LCA's and UCA's for wheel hop. Relocation brackets for lowering as well. Your brakes are good as is, same as Boss and older GT500's. Wider rear tires at some point. Wheels can be pushed to 285's. 275's is normal, 295's a little big. Oh and the most important Change is to get rid of the prop rod for the hood!
That all sounds a little less than expected. Sway bars and brakes can stay...

For the shifter, what's better? Barton or FRPP short throw?

For the tune, is it best to stick to Ford racing or is a Bama/SCT tune comparable?

My last car had a custom tune and it seemed pretty good.
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Old 02-03-2015, 08:16 PM   #14
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Sways and brakes would not be the first or second mod. Barton makes the FRPP shifter so pick the cheaper and get the bracket. Ford Racing tune is a step better than stock followed by Bama /SCT Tune where you have more far more options when doing additonal mods and then Custom.
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Old 02-03-2015, 08:21 PM   #15
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2013 GT 6M Track Pack - where to start?

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Originally Posted by davesnothere View Post
That all sounds a little less than expected. Sway bars and brakes can stay...



For the shifter, what's better? Barton or FRPP short throw?



For the tune, is it best to stick to Ford racing or is a Bama/SCT tune comparable?



My last car had a custom tune and it seemed pretty good.

Barton makes the FRPP shifter. But the Barton is cheaper for the same thing. MGW is better than both and you can get the original one for 308.00 dollars which is a great deal. For the tune any after market tuner like Lund or AED is better than Bama in my opinion. I got the ford racing track cal for now and like the Lopey idle feature and the launch control . It does make less peak power than others but the low torque curve is good and wakes up the car.


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Old 02-03-2015, 08:40 PM   #16
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Unless your road racing the car, the sway bars are fine. Lower the car will make it hold the road better and not look like a 4x4. Hard to beat the 14" brembos for the street. If road racing then rotors and pads. Rears brakes the same across the board. In 2013, GT500 changed to 15" 6 piston brembos and 13.8in rear rotors. This is what I'm running, but more than is needed on street. WRT shifter, MGW is only one that changes the lower shifter housing. Great for drag racing. Don't overlook Steeda. Smoother than Barton. Best tunes are custom, but if you don't do a lot of mods then probably not worth it. I had the MGTC Ford tune for $300 with stock motor and was happy. Not sure what features the MTTCA has that your 2013 can't use, but I do not believe all are avialable for the 2013. I would call Ford Racing and ask. With all the tunes, the redline will be raised. Recommend a shift light to stay off the rev limter. Embrassing and slow on the street. I now have the FRPP Whipple with custom dyno tune and stock motor, over 550rwhp. Much better than Ford tune. And don't forget that stupid hood prop rod.
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Old 02-03-2015, 09:03 PM   #17
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The track cal tune I listed above is specifically and only for the 2013's and early 2014's. Track key only works on the 2014 1/2's. Pretty much same tune and features.


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Old 02-04-2015, 08:52 AM   #18
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The track cal tune I listed above is specifically and only for the 2013's and early 2014's. Track key only works on the 2014 1/2's. Pretty much same tune and features.


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I really like the idea of the track key... The idea of being able to turn on and off beast mode sounds cool to me.

Too bad it doesn't work for 2013. I've been debating going straight to a fully functional tuner to allow any other changes I plan to do in the future OR just go for the simple effective tune the track cal offers.

I think my decision would be easier if I could get a 'lopey idle' for a tuner...
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Old 02-04-2015, 08:55 AM   #19
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Sways and brakes would not be the first or second mod. Barton makes the FRPP shifter so pick the cheaper and get the bracket. Ford Racing tune is a step better than stock followed by Bama /SCT Tune where you have more far more options when doing additonal mods and then Custom.
What difference does the bracket make? I noticed a 1 post bracket and 2 post bracket as well.
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Old 02-04-2015, 11:55 AM   #20
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Pull up a picture online of a stock bracket and you will see. The bracket secures the shifter housing to the vehicle and helps when you are twisting the car around a corner and trying to shift. A good bit firmer shift. The stocker is a pos held together with tie straps.
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Old 02-04-2015, 07:34 PM   #21
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A good tune and lowering springs are a good start.

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Old 02-05-2015, 08:42 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by davesnothere View Post
Hey there,

I just bought a 2013 GT with Track Pack and I'm wondering where to start...

This isn't my first rodeo with mustangs. Last one was 2007 GT and I modified it enough to be dangerous.

I just wanted to ask any other Track Pack owners what they modified first? I'm just a little confused because most people are modding stock GT's and I'm not sure what mods are better than what's already been done on the Track Pack version?

Induction? SCT Tuner vs TracKey? Does the Track Key even work on this car?

Suspension? LCA? UCA? panhard bar?

Exhaust (I'm actually happy with the FRPP exhaust (borla stingers I do believe)

Here is what I could find about the Track Pack:
- Performance front/rear brake pads
Really not much different than the stock GT's but ok for the street, metallic or semi metallic would be better.
- GT500 Sta-Bars and rear LCA's
Again, not much different than the stock GT's..still wimpy LCA.
- Retuned struts and shocks (what does this even mean?)
Again, a slight difference from stock but when you lower the car
they will need to be changed to Koni's/Bilstien's or FRP
- 3.73 axle ratio with carbon-fiber clutch plates
The carrier is a Torsen and has no clutches
- Recalibrated AdvanceTrac®, traction control and anti-lock brakes
I couldn't find any difference from a stock GT.

- Brembo brakes and retuned ABS and Traction control
4 Piston Brembo's and recalibrated ABS/Traction control
- engine cooler
It has an engine oil cooler just from the Boss302
- Upgraded radiator
It uses the Boss302 radiator
- Torsen differential that’s on Mustang Boss 302
Mentioned above, does not have clutches

I'm not looking to go too far with mods (I say that now after owning the car for a little less than a week) as this is a daily driver for me. I want to keep the car N/A, possibly add an intake and tune as well as possibly tighten the suspension a little (i.e. reduce wheel hop) and be nice and straight off the line.

So... I'm asking you O wise keepers of the forum... my car is still a virgin. What would you do with her?
Well, I'm not an expert on my TrackPak 14, but I'm getting there.
If you just want a nice street driver............for now, the first thing to do is get a tuner like the SCT4X, use their stock tune until you get bored, then get an internet tune from a good tuner (you can ask people on the site).
You do not need a CAI, just the tune. The stock Coyote CAI is fine........but you need the tune!!!!!
Next, get some LCA's and replace the UCA/bracket. When you lower the car you'll need an adjustable panhard bar to bring the rearend back to equal on both sides of the body.
I've ordered a once piece drive line because I don't believe in the 2 piece OE design.
Also, when you lower the car look into getting some aftermarket strut plates..........the stock ones make too much noise and limit the travel of the OE struts/shocks............IMHO
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Old 02-05-2015, 08:44 PM   #23
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Pull up a picture online of a stock bracket and you will see. The bracket secures the shifter housing to the vehicle and helps when you are twisting the car around a corner and trying to shift. A good bit firmer shift. The stocker is a pos held together with tie straps.
I just looked at it. The stock one looks like garbage... No wonder it shifts the way it does...
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Old 02-05-2015, 08:49 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by olerodder View Post
Well, I'm not an expert on my TrackPak 14, but I'm getting there.
If you just want a nice street driver............for now, the first thing to do is get a tuner like the SCT4X, use their stock tune until you get bored, then get an internet tune from a good tuner (you can ask people on the site).
You do not need a CAI, just the tune. The stock Coyote CAI is fine........but you need the tune!!!!!
Next, get some LCA's and replace the UCA/bracket. When you lower the car you'll need an adjustable panhard bar to bring the rearend back to equal on both sides of the body.
I've ordered a once piece drive line because I don't believe in the 2 piece OE design.
Also, when you lower the car look into getting some aftermarket strut plates..........the stock ones make too much noise and limit the travel of the OE struts/shocks............IMHO
Thanks for the input!
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Old 02-06-2015, 07:47 AM   #25
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First thing you need to decide is what you are going to do with the car. Is it just for street or are you going to drag race or road race. Some mods are require and some you may never see the difference. If your not pushing your car. Then there's how much do you really want to spend on the car some of these mods cost a lot and then who is going to install. Example, I installed a one piece aluminum driveshaft. Do I see a difference in performance on the street - no, except that it makes more noise. Would I see a difference on the drag strip absolutely. I got good deal on a used one so I bit. Another warning, anything you do is probably going to make the ca have more NVH (noise, vibrattion, harshness). Even the panhard bar has NVH treatment. A new tune is a must, but think ahead if you are going to do other engine mods. The Ford Racing tunes (either) are good, but they do not support other mods. Any tune is going to raise the redline which is going to make the WOT shifting worse. Dyno tunes are great when you have changed a lot on the engine, when making basic changes most companies have enough experience to tune. Its not always about peak power, low and mid range is where you are going to be driving the most. Variable cam timing in these cars brings a whole new dimension to tuning and driveability. The shifter and mount are problems. The upper shifter are and mount are sloppy. The biggest problem with shifting is that the front of the ****er attaches to the trans and the rear to the body. The lower shifter that comes witth MGW can improve 2-3 shift's with stiffer centering spring really helps if your going to drag race. Your probably going to get the dreaded clutch pedal staying on the floor. Remove the pedal spring and if your going to drag race, think about a better clutch. Lowering is a good mod for road handling and looks, but does require other mods (UCA, adjustable panhard, front camber). Some have not changed anything but you should. The car has wheel hop issues and better tune and wet roads will bring it out more. UCA mod will address both wheel hop and lower (keeps rear end angle proper). LCA's on yours are from the GT500 so they are better, but aftermarket have even stiffer bushings. Relocation brackets for LCA's are not required for 1 inch lower, however they do correct the geometry and provide more bit for the rear tires on launch and assist in cornering. So as you can see there is no one configuration only, it all depends! Obviously these are my opinions and only you can decide what will work for you. I have done more on my car, as well as others, but if I'm honest I have a hard time seeing the advertised benefits for some of the mods when daily driving.
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Old 02-06-2015, 04:48 PM   #26
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First thing you need to decide is what you are going to do with the car. Is it just for street or are you going to drag race or road race. Some mods are require and some you may never see the difference. If your not pushing your car. Then there's how much do you really want to spend on the car some of these mods cost a lot and then who is going to install. Example, I installed a one piece aluminum driveshaft. Do I see a difference in performance on the street - no, except that it makes more noise. Would I see a difference on the drag strip absolutely. I got good deal on a used one so I bit. Another warning, anything you do is probably going to make the ca have more NVH (noise, vibrattion, harshness). Even the panhard bar has NVH treatment. A new tune is a must, but think ahead if you are going to do other engine mods. The Ford Racing tunes (either) are good, but they do not support other mods. Any tune is going to raise the redline which is going to make the WOT shifting worse. Dyno tunes are great when you have changed a lot on the engine, when making basic changes most companies have enough experience to tune. Its not always about peak power, low and mid range is where you are going to be driving the most. Variable cam timing in these cars brings a whole new dimension to tuning and driveability. The shifter and mount are problems. The upper shifter are and mount are sloppy. The biggest problem with shifting is that the front of the ****er attaches to the trans and the rear to the body. The lower shifter that comes witth MGW can improve 2-3 shift's with stiffer centering spring really helps if your going to drag race. Your probably going to get the dreaded clutch pedal staying on the floor. Remove the pedal spring and if your going to drag race, think about a better clutch. Lowering is a good mod for road handling and looks, but does require other mods (UCA, adjustable panhard, front camber). Some have not changed anything but you should. The car has wheel hop issues and better tune and wet roads will bring it out more. UCA mod will address both wheel hop and lower (keeps rear end angle proper). LCA's on yours are from the GT500 so they are better, but aftermarket have even stiffer bushings. Relocation brackets for LCA's are not required for 1 inch lower, however they do correct the geometry and provide more bit for the rear tires on launch and assist in cornering. So as you can see there is no one configuration only, it all depends! Obviously these are my opinions and only you can decide what will work for you. I have done more on my car, as well as others, but if I'm honest I have a hard time seeing the advertised benefits for some of the mods when daily driving.
Wow! Thanks for the advice! You should frame this as I've seen so many people on here and other boards do too much and not understand why their car is not handling better. I guess the 'tim the toolman approach' is not always best.
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