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Old 02-21-2015, 09:47 AM   #1
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Bmr upper control arm mount question

My car is lowered 1.5 all the way around, I have the bmr adj upper control arm and mount. My question is what hole do I need to mount the arm, top or bottom?

I also have lower control arms with reloc brackets in the middle hole.


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Old 02-21-2015, 11:29 AM   #2
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read this thread, BMR adjustable UCA
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Old 02-21-2015, 11:35 AM   #3
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Well *****, I don't even remember which hole I used, I think it was the bottom one for some reason. Not sure why I think that but I think I did, do I need to make sure and change it if it is?
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Old 02-21-2015, 11:55 AM   #4
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Quote:
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read this thread, BMR adjustable UCA

Thanks


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Old 02-21-2015, 03:23 PM   #5
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Well *****, I don't even remember which hole I used, I think it was the bottom one for some reason. Not sure why I think that but I think I did, do I need to make sure and change it if it is?
If it's not in the upper hole you have it wrong.
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Old 04-08-2015, 01:15 AM   #6
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Gonna revive this thread, is the lower hole in the BMR UCA mount for stock ride height cars?
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Old 04-08-2015, 07:25 AM   #7
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Gonna revive this thread, is the lower hole in the BMR UCA mount for stock ride height cars?

I'd imagine so. Im using the upper. But I'm lowered several inches.


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Old 04-08-2015, 09:18 AM   #8
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Quote:
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Gonna revive this thread, is the lower hole in the BMR UCA mount for stock ride height cars?
Yes
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Old 04-08-2015, 11:29 AM   #9
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Bascially, the LOWER hole in the UCA Mount is designed to provide better Anti-Squat Geometry on a stock height car. As a matter of fact, if someone has a completely stock vehicle...and uses the lower hole, with everything else stock (even the OEM UCA) it will aide in better traction.

The UPPER position is designed specifically. It is the only position on the market, of it's kind, and it is designed for a car that uses RLCA Relocation Brackets in any of the 3 positions. (I usually say for lowered cars, because most lowered cars have RLCA Brackets)

On some occasions, a "slammed" car will use the LOWER hole on the UCA Mount in drag race applications, to achieve maximum AS values.....but they MUST use a very good double adjustable rear shock, and the car should be an automatic Trans.
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Old 04-08-2015, 03:23 PM   #10
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Well maybe you can answer this question then sir, see my build list first:

Lowering springs (1.5in drop in the rear)
BMR RLCA Relo Brackets (setting in middle hole)
Steeda UCA - For Lowered Cars (it is non-adj. but puts pinion angle back on point).

I'm looking to replace my stock UCA mount with your BMR mount. Would I just use the lower hole on this mount since my Steeda UCA already corrects the pinion angle?
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Old 04-08-2015, 10:54 PM   #11
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Would it be alright to use a non adjustable arm and put it in the top hole...only dropped 1.5"


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Old 04-09-2015, 05:18 AM   #12
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The upper needs to be adjustable. I don't know how many times it needs to be said.
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Old 04-09-2015, 12:35 PM   #13
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Yeah I got a great deal on my UCA so I said screw it I'll deal with future problems later... And here I am haha. On the stock mount my Steeda lowered UCA corrects the pinion angle perfectly but now I'm finally replacing the mount...
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Old 04-09-2015, 12:48 PM   #14
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The upper needs to be adjustable. I don't know how many times it needs to be said.

Thanks mom....


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Old 05-18-2015, 08:48 PM   #15
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Well ****! I used the bottom hole for my adjustable uca and bracket. Other mods are lca's with relocation brackets, adjustable panhard, koni yellows, gt500 mounts, and ford k springs. So should I change it to the top hole?
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Old 05-19-2015, 04:55 AM   #16
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Yes it needs to be changed.
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Old 05-19-2015, 06:23 AM   #17
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Yes it needs to be changed.
Sucks because it felt like it handled and hooked so great.
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Old 05-19-2015, 07:15 AM   #18
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So if your really low you use the top hole?


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Old 05-19-2015, 07:33 AM   #19
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That's what I'm finding out after the fact. I wish I would have taken to time to verify during the install and not been in a hurry.
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Old 05-19-2015, 04:56 PM   #20
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Here's the scoop.

When you lower the car, you lower the fore end of the UCA...

With our mounts, we actually raise the hole up higher than OEM to compensate for the drop, in expecting the use to install and take advantage of the RLCA Brackets.

Here is the deal. IF you have the best results in XYZ holes....and I say to use something different, well who cares what I say.

That is why we put two holes on the UCA mount, and three in the RCLA Brackets....for the user to test them, and pick the positions that work best.

I can tell you this. At the drag strip, the absolute quickest S197's on the planet (use our stuff) - they use the lower position on the UCA, and the lowest position on the LCA...and the cars are slammed. That doesn't mean it works for everyone, with that kinda AS....but it means they hit the tires VERY hard, and have a very good supporting suspension to control the "hit" to the tires.

Moral of the story being, use whatever positions you want. If you like the way it feels on the bottom, try it out for a while before swapping.
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Old 05-19-2015, 05:12 PM   #21
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I have the BMR panhard bar and I love it!
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Old 05-19-2015, 05:30 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMR Suspension View Post
Here's the scoop.

When you lower the car, you lower the fore end of the UCA...

With our mounts, we actually raise the hole up higher than OEM to compensate for the drop, in expecting the use to install and take advantage of the RLCA Brackets.

Here is the deal. IF you have the best results in XYZ holes....and I say to use something different, well who cares what I say.

That is why we put two holes on the UCA mount, and three in the RCLA Brackets....for the user to test them, and pick the positions that work best.

I can tell you this. At the drag strip, the absolute quickest S197's on the planet (use our stuff) - they use the lower position on the UCA, and the lowest position on the LCA...and the cars are slammed. That doesn't mean it works for everyone, with that kinda AS....but it means they hit the tires VERY hard, and have a very good supporting suspension to control the "hit" to the tires.

Moral of the story being, use whatever positions you want. If you like the way it feels on the bottom, try it out for a while before swapping.
Well, here's my thing. I'm not looking to try a crap ton of different setups personally. I would like to have different options, but I would also like to have a generalized good setup that has worked great. I just didn't know if there were adverse effects of having it on the bottom hole.

I'm setup right now with the highest hole on the lca relocation brackets with your lca's, and the lowest hole on the uca with your bracket. I set the lca's based on a thread that I was reading that stated it would be the best for overall handling, but it seems like since then, there have been nothing but people saying the middle hole is the best. I'm wondering if I should move those. I really would like to just get a good all around setup and stick with it without rounding out the heads to the bolts and nuts trying to get the suckers torqued properly each time lol.
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Old 05-19-2015, 05:31 PM   #23
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Oh, also bmr, what were the exact sizes for the adjustment rod (the one that adjusts the uca) and the lock nuts? I would like to buy some wrenches and saw them down so they fit in there better rather than a crappy crescent wrench.
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Old 05-19-2015, 08:44 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMR Suspension View Post
Here's the scoop.

When you lower the car, you lower the fore end of the UCA...

With our mounts, we actually raise the hole up higher than OEM to compensate for the drop, in expecting the use to install and take advantage of the RLCA Brackets.

Here is the deal. IF you have the best results in XYZ holes....and I say to use something different, well who cares what I say.

That is why we put two holes on the UCA mount, and three in the RCLA Brackets....for the user to test them, and pick the positions that work best.

I can tell you this. At the drag strip, the absolute quickest S197's on the planet (use our stuff) - they use the lower position on the UCA, and the lowest position on the LCA...and the cars are slammed. That doesn't mean it works for everyone, with that kinda AS....but it means they hit the tires VERY hard, and have a very good supporting suspension to control the "hit" to the tires.

Moral of the story being, use whatever positions you want. If you like the way it feels on the bottom, try it out for a while before swapping.

This is why I went with your full rear suspension . Now I feel way more at ease the way I set mine up!
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Old 05-19-2015, 08:50 PM   #25
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This is why I went with your full rear suspension . Now I feel way more at ease the way I set mine up!
Do you have adjustable lca's as well? What do you have them set to if so? What is your pinion angle with your set up?


BMR, what should my pinion angle be at with the lower hole? I'm only around -1. I don't have many more threads to change it to -2.
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Old 05-19-2015, 09:01 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Famine View Post
Do you have adjustable lca's as well? What do you have them set to if so? What is your pinion angle with your set up?


BMR, what should my pinion angle be at with the lower hole? I'm only around -1. I don't have many more threads to change it to -2.
I went with the spherical bearing (axle side) and poly bushing (body side) lower control arms. The car is a bit loud because I ordered every piece that comes with a bushing to have spherical bearings from upper, lowers, and the panhard bar. And wow... from stock to this the car straight up squats and goes... When it breaks loose though, it tracks so straight and doesn't hop at all. This is all due to the tires being cold when I leave my neighborhood . Gotta love living right off an interstate!
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Old 05-20-2015, 12:17 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMR Suspension View Post
Here's the scoop.

When you lower the car, you lower the fore end of the UCA...

With our mounts, we actually raise the hole up higher than OEM to compensate for the drop, in expecting the use to install and take advantage of the RLCA Brackets.

Here is the deal. IF you have the best results in XYZ holes....and I say to use something different, well who cares what I say.

That is why we put two holes on the UCA mount, and three in the RCLA Brackets....for the user to test them, and pick the positions that work best.

I can tell you this. At the drag strip, the absolute quickest S197's on the planet (use our stuff) - they use the lower position on the UCA, and the lowest position on the LCA...and the cars are slammed. That doesn't mean it works for everyone, with that kinda AS....but it means they hit the tires VERY hard, and have a very good supporting suspension to control the "hit" to the tires.

Moral of the story being, use whatever positions you want. If you like the way it feels on the bottom, try it out for a while before swapping.

This is great info. I'm sub'd for future install of my adjustable UCA, carrier bushing, and aluminum DS next week.


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Old 06-10-2015, 09:21 PM   #28
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Does everyone adjust their UCA to 9.5 inches center to center to start with? I'll have Steeda sport springs 1" front 1.25" rear, koni yellows, bmr LCA's and BMR UCA with mount. Its pretty much going to be a DD car for me with a little road course work. Haven't thought to get LCA brackets yet.
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Old 06-11-2015, 06:39 AM   #29
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Does everyone adjust their UCA to 9.5 inches center to center to start with? I'll have Steeda sport springs 1" front 1.25" rear, koni yellows, bmr LCA's and BMR UCA with mount. Its pretty much going to be a DD car for me with a little road course work. Haven't thought to get LCA brackets yet.
I did yes.
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