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Old 03-04-2015, 03:16 PM   #1
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Koni sports: Caster/camber plates?

13 GT with FRPP springs, JM extreme LCA's and lots of ponies. I'm getting mixed opinions on whether or not I should do the caster/camber plates or if the camber bolts will be good enough. I don't want to cheap out but the plates seem like overkill. Thoughts?


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Old 03-04-2015, 03:24 PM   #2
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You are always going to find mixed opinions with this type of question...

I always vote for getting the caster/camber plates.
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Old 03-04-2015, 03:27 PM   #3
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Fair enough. How about anyone with personal experience?


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Old 03-04-2015, 03:39 PM   #4
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Crash boots I mean camber bolts are dangerous.
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Old 03-04-2015, 03:40 PM   #5
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Why is that?


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Old 03-04-2015, 04:07 PM   #6
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Well for one the bolt itself is smaller than the OE bolt. CC plates are the way I am going. They let you really dial in the car. You got amazing shocks, why cheap out now?
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Old 03-04-2015, 04:50 PM   #7
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The offset bolt has to be smaller because it has a concentric and that makes it about 20% weaker than a factory bolt. Although a small number of people have had issues with them breaking under extreme loading when going around corners aggressively, or coming loose during the same type of driving, why would you want to cheap out. It sounds like you've got enough HP with the 2.3 to turn asphalt to dust..............why risk all of that money and other peoples lives by putting a $15 bolt in each side of the front end.........doesn't make since to me............come on dude, step up to the plate..........pun intended!
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Old 03-04-2015, 05:22 PM   #8
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I always like to triple confirm my choices but as you can see in my sig I rarely cheap out. You all make excellent points and helped me make my decision. I spoke with Strano a few minutes ago and he recommended I go with the new Steeda plates. He said they provide new bearings instead of reusing the stock ones with the MMS plates. Can't wait for a sunny weekend to install these puppies.


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Old 03-04-2015, 05:28 PM   #9
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For those with the camber plates, are they noisy at all? I can deal with some nvh but when it comes to any clanking, that's where I draw the line.
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Old 03-04-2015, 05:34 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fastlane13 View Post
I always like to triple confirm my choices but as you can see in my sig I rarely cheap out. You all make excellent points and helped me make my decision. I spoke with Strano a few minutes ago and he recommended I go with the new Steeda plates. He said they provide new bearings instead of reusing the stock ones with the MMS plates. Can't wait for a sunny weekend to install these puppies.


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Interesting you mention these. I was looking at the MM CC plates and noticed you must reuse the bottom of the factory piece. Did Steeda make improvements to the design or simply include a factory one in the kit like the J&M units?

Edit: I hope he wasn't trying to sell you these: http://www.steeda.com/mustang-adjust...unts-555-8137/
Those will be insanely harsh since it does away with the rubber bushings that limit NVH.
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Old 03-04-2015, 05:39 PM   #11
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For those with the camber plates, are they noisy at all? I can deal with some nvh but when it comes to any clanking, that's where I draw the line.
From everything I've read they aren't too bad. It basically depends on your set up. If you are running progressive springs with Koni yellows on the softest setting with the correct bump stops its supposedly a nice ride, with some even saying slightly better than stock. Some people did say they had higher mileage on the stock units (which are absolute trash), so the car was probably riding like crap to begin with.
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Old 03-04-2015, 06:20 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by paintmann111 View Post
Interesting you mention these. I was looking at the MM CC plates and noticed you must reuse the bottom of the factory piece. Did Steeda make improvements to the design or simply include a factory one in the kit like the J&M units?

Edit: I hope he wasn't trying to sell you these: http://www.steeda.com/mustang-adjust...unts-555-8137/
Those will be insanely harsh since it does away with the rubber bushings that limit NVH.

He said the 'old' Steeda plates were crap but I didn't get a part number yet so I'm not sure if the ones in the link are new or old. When I order them on Friday I'll check the model and confirm.


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Old 03-04-2015, 06:34 PM   #13
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The ones in the link are our new adjustable ones ... not sure what he was referring to, regarding the old ones.

Part number 555-8137, the strut mounts offer up to -2.3 degrees negative camber for those using stock springs and up to -3.5 degrees negative camber if using a 2.5-inch coilover suspension setup.

They also provide caster settings of stock or +.5 degrees. The mounts are constructed of billet aluminum and steel and are TIG-welded and nickel plated.

Steeda recommends they are used for track cars only, as the noise and impact harshness aren’t ideal for street cars.



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Old 03-04-2015, 06:54 PM   #14
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If and when I get CC plates I'd really like to try these. They are a little expensive, but better than anything I've seen.

Vorshlag Ford '05-'14 S197 Mustang Aluminum Camber/Caster Plates & Perches - Vorshlag LLC
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Old 03-04-2015, 06:57 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tj@steeda View Post
The ones in the link are our new adjustable ones ... not sure what he was referring to, regarding the old ones.

Part number 555-8137, the strut mounts offer up to -2.3 degrees negative camber for those using stock springs and up to -3.5 degrees negative camber if using a 2.5-inch coilover suspension setup.

They also provide caster settings of stock or +.5 degrees. The mounts are constructed of billet aluminum and steel and are TIG-welded and nickel plated.

Steeda recommends they are used for track cars only, as the noise and impact harshness aren’t ideal for street cars.



Best Regards,

TJ
These are the ones that aren't really made for street use due to the design. They are great quality, but a bit harsh for street use.
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Old 03-04-2015, 07:54 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tj@steeda View Post
The ones in the link are our new adjustable ones ... not sure what he was referring to, regarding the old ones.

Part number 555-8137, the strut mounts offer up to -2.3 degrees negative camber for those using stock springs and up to -3.5 degrees negative camber if using a 2.5-inch coilover suspension setup.

They also provide caster settings of stock or +.5 degrees. The mounts are constructed of billet aluminum and steel and are TIG-welded and nickel plated.

Steeda recommends they are used for track cars only, as the noise and impact harshness aren’t ideal for street cars.



Best Regards,

TJ
Thanks for this information. On about how low of a drop before camber plates or even the crappy bolts are recommended?
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Old 03-05-2015, 01:00 AM   #17
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What is recommended to use with konis and ford k springs? Trying to get everything together as well


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Old 03-05-2015, 01:27 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by Fastlane13 View Post
13 GT with FRPP springs, JM extreme LCA's and lots of ponies. I'm getting mixed opinions on whether or not I should do the caster/camber plates or if the camber bolts will be good enough. I don't want to cheap out but the plates seem like overkill. Thoughts?


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Hopefully this will help. The bolts will work, however, they all strip or fatigue. You wont really know until you get uneven tire wear. Mostly the people who are fine with the bolts never subject them to enough stress to have problems. It may cost more money getting plates but you'll be able to use them no matter what strut you use, or end up using. Also they support larger drops, so if for some reason you end up going lower again they are useful. I'd say get them so you don't have to worry.
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Old 03-05-2015, 09:38 AM   #19
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To avoid using camber bolts, you can slot the bottom hole that the strut mounts to the knuckle with. You will use your original bolts.
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Old 03-05-2015, 09:47 AM   #20
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I understand if you are going to track your car, but if you just lower the car there really is no need for CC plates as the line-up will remain within Ford Specs. When I lowered my 14 with Sportline springs it was at the high end of factory spec's and a little more +camber and some -caster will help in carving the corners. This is the 5th late model Mustang I've helped lower and non needed any CC adjustment...........if you are going to track the car and want more than +7.9/or less than 6.4 degrees caster or more than -1.5 degrees camber then get the CC plates.
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Old 03-05-2015, 10:26 AM   #21
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To avoid using camber bolts, you can slot the bottom hole that the strut mounts to the knuckle with. You will use your original bolts.

Can u further explain this or have a photo? I installed sr springs and will be doing an alignment next week

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Old 03-05-2015, 10:30 AM   #22
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If you have a smart phone, get the free app iAlign, it will give you a good indication if you really need a lign-up.
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Old 03-05-2015, 10:32 AM   #23
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I went with MMS C/C plates because I got a really good deal on them. These were recommended to me though. I'm lowering the car with BMR springs (the original ones) and putting Koni oranges all the way around.

Based on what you are saying though olerodder, do I really need the C/C plates?
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Old 03-05-2015, 10:34 AM   #24
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Koni sports: Caster/camber plates?

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Originally Posted by olerodder View Post
If you have a smart phone, get the free app iAlign, it will give you a good indication if you really need a lign-up.

I don't see a free version

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Old 03-05-2015, 10:45 AM   #25
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I went with MMS C/C plates because I got a really good deal on them. These were recommended to me though. I'm lowering the car with BMR springs (the original ones) and putting Koni oranges all the way around.

Based on what you are saying though olerodder, do I really need the C/C plates?
If you are just going to drive the car as a DD and maybe take it to track days once or twice a year I see no need for CC plates. Like I said, I've lowered 5 Mustangs from 11 through my 14 and on my 14 I used Eibach Sportlines which lower the car 1.5" front and 2" rear...............and I was still within Ford Alignment specs although on the high side for caster and low side for camber, and I used the stock TrackPak strut mounts and struts. So, if you have them go ahead and use them.

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I don't see a free version

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Sorry, I've had the free version on my iPhone for 2/3 years and didn't know it's no longer free.
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Old 03-05-2015, 10:48 AM   #26
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No biggie, I figured that was the case. I mean for 3.00 if it works that's pretty good. It just doesn't have any reviews.
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Old 03-05-2015, 10:50 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by olerodder View Post
If you are just going to drive the car as a DD and maybe take it to track days once or twice a year I see no need for CC plates. Like I said, I've lowered 5 Mustangs from 11 through my 14 and on my 14 I used Eibach Sportlines which lower the car 1.5" front and 2" rear...............and I was still within Ford Alignment specs although on the high side for caster and low side for camber, and I used the stock TrackPak strut mounts and struts. So, if you have them go ahead and use them.



Sorry, I've had the free version on my iPhone for 2/3 years and didn't know it's no longer free.
Thanks for the tip dude. So many different opinions. The person that told me to get the C/C plates was of course a MMS salesperson. I downloaded that app to help me when I install all these suspension parts, good find!
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Old 03-05-2015, 10:56 AM   #28
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Thanks for the tip dude. So many different opinions. The person that told me to get the C/C plates was of course a MMS salesperson. I downloaded that app to help me when I install all these suspension parts, good find!
No problem. Name is John.
I done a fair amount of racing with SCCA and NHRA and have only had CC plates on track only cars, never on my DD's. I just see no need to spend money on something that is not needed, when you can spend it other places like a 1 piece driveshaft, or UCA, LCA's, adjustable panhard, or shifter upgrades.
With that said this is just my humble opinion, and opinions are like belly buttons, everyone has one.
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Old 03-05-2015, 12:32 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by olerodder View Post
If you are just going to drive the car as a DD and maybe take it to track days once or twice a year I see no need for CC plates. Like I said, I've lowered 5 Mustangs from 11 through my 14 and on my 14 I used Eibach Sportlines which lower the car 1.5" front and 2" rear...............and I was still within Ford Alignment specs although on the high side for caster and low side for camber, and I used the stock TrackPak strut mounts and struts. So, if you have them go ahead and use them.



Sorry, I've had the free version on my iPhone for 2/3 years and didn't know it's no longer free.
+1,
I have steeda SPort SPrings and Pro Action Struts and shocks, with GT500 Strut Mounts, and was within spec no need for adjustments.
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