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Old 03-10-2015, 12:33 PM   #1
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What to do next? Any advise is appreciated!

I will try to be brief. 2011Gt coupe, manual, 3.73 gears. No power performance mods as of yet. Its been lowered, LCA & UPC and caster camber plates. I have ordered a Cervinis Stalker II hood prepainted as well as their Ram kit and their CAI. I has also orders Kooks intermediate headers and x pipe with cats. Already have Roush axle backs and have a set of resonators on stand by. Car is my third car, not a daily, however I am a 43 year old with two boys. I have no plans to drag race the car. That being said i want to be able to accelerate as fast as possible. I do not necessarily have any plans of forced induction in the future. What should be my next steps for my car. Please be specific as possible with brands and models. I had a 89 5.0 hatch 23 years ago so I have been out of the game for a while. I hope i have not broken any thread rules, I have been trying to search various threads over the past few weeks. Thank you guys and gals!

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Old 03-11-2015, 04:01 PM   #2
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Who are you planning on using to tune the car after adding the intake, headers and x-pipe?

You have a few options, all of which depends how much money you really want to spend:
1. Add more horsepower and go full-bolt ons: intake manifold, throttle-body and go catless.
2. Add more suspension and get better rubber
3. Nitrous
4. Forced Induction
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Old 03-11-2015, 07:51 PM   #3
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If the car is lowered and you already have UCA and LCA's what you should get is an adjustable pan hard bar and square the rear end up.
The next thing, or maybe the first thing is to contact someone for a specific tune for you car with all of the stuff you have done, CAI, headers.
After you get all the parts on and tuned I think you will be surprised at the level of performance and from there it's up to you where you want to go.
I don't know how many miles the car has on it nor what kind of performance you really want, but with tune and those mod's it should be close 440hp at the crank....just a guess.
I have a 14GT with TrakPak, 3:73 gears with a CAI and mild tune and first and second gears you can spin the tires at will.
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Old 03-11-2015, 09:39 PM   #4
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I ordered a Race-Spec Short Shifter from MGW this morning also. Just_a_GT recommend it on another post and after reading everything about them I am more excited about this modification than anything else. The engineering that went into this is amazing. Like everything else I have ordered it will not ship for two weeks.

As for as in getting tuned I was thinking of ordering a Bama tuner from AM. I just don't know which one to get. I like idea of the wireless one that will work with IPad but just not sure it seems like most use the SCT4. That was what I was hoping some one give me feed back on..

To answer the previous question my car has 45000 mile but has run out factory warranty.

What about changing fluids like rear end oil, trans oil simple stuff like that? Is there a better rear end oil over others, trans fluid?

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Old 03-11-2015, 10:00 PM   #5
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Mike Rousch at Midatlanticperformance.net does a bad *** tune also.
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Old 03-11-2015, 10:40 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Justin72 View Post
I ordered a Race-Spec Short Shifter from MGW this morning also. Just_a_GT recommend it on another post and after reading everything about them I am more excited about this modification than anything else. The engineering that went into this is amazing. Like everything else I have ordered it will not ship for two weeks.

As for as in getting tuned I was thinking of ordering a Bama tuner from AM. I just don't know which one to get. I like idea of the wireless one that will work with IPad but just not sure it seems like most use the SCT4. That was what I was hoping some one give me feed back on..
The only reason I have an SCT is because the car came with it and an Airaid CAI. Make some phone calls to tuners mentioned on this site and get some feedback from them. I really would not put the tune in until you have the hood and Kooks headers/x pipe. When you talk with the tuner just tell him what aftermarket CAI/headers/x pipe and he will make the tune for your car with the parts you have on it that are not stock.
I don't know if you just purchased the car, but if you did I would change oil in the motor, trans and rear end. I would follow the Ford spec's as to the type of oil. Some people use Amsoil and have some good things to say about it, you can always give them a call and I'm sure they will hook you up with the right oil for all of your needs.
As for the types of oil, I only use Motorcraft, but in my race cars I have mostly used Royal Purple............just use a well known brand and you'll be fine and make sure it meets or exceeds the Ford Spec.
To answer the previous question my car has 45000 mile but has run out factory warranty.

What about changing fluids like rear end oil, trans oil simple stuff like that? Is there a better rear end oil over others, trans fluid?

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Old 03-12-2015, 12:56 PM   #7
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Thank you, about the tune

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Originally Posted by olerodder View Post
If the car is lowered and you already have UCA and LCA's what you should get is an adjustable pan hard bar and square the rear end up.
The next thing, or maybe the first thing is to contact someone for a specific tune for you car with all of the stuff you have done, CAI, headers.
After you get all the parts on and tuned I think you will be surprised at the level of performance and from there it's up to you where you want to go.
I don't know how many miles the car has on it nor what kind of performance you really want, but with tune and those mod's it should be close 440hp at the crank....just a guess.
I have a 14GT with TrakPak, 3:73 gears with a CAI and mild tune and first and second gears you can spin the tires at will.
There are a couple of local tuners in the area, I was surprised at the amount of money they charge. I don't mind paying the money if it is really worth how ever to do a custom dyno tune, they all want 399 for the SCT tuner then charge 325 for the tune and an additional 50 for other tunes. That's twice the price of the Bama tune from AM with free tunes as needed. Of course every local shop I called bad mouthed CO like bama and said they are all Cam happy what every that means. But double the price for the same thing too me doesn't make since
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Old 03-12-2015, 01:03 PM   #8
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The 'best' tuner shop on Long Island charges $550 for a true Dyno tune if you are FI. To me it's worth it because I know my car is running to its fullest potential for my personal use.


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Old 03-12-2015, 02:50 PM   #9
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I'd say go with the new Bama v2 tunes that come with the SCT tuner or go with a Lund Tune (also comes with the SCT tuner). Either route you go, you can install the tune before you make any other modifications, than as you add more mods, you can get the tunes revised for free to match your current set up.

For what it's worth, I'm leaning towards giving Bama tunes a try come April. The reviews of their new v2 tunes have been nothing but positive and they just happen to be $75 cheaper than a Lund Tune + SCT Tuner.
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Old 03-12-2015, 03:48 PM   #10
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And there are also Steeda tunes for life!

Very safe, reliable & powerful ... you won' be disappointed!

Best Regards,

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Old 03-12-2015, 09:22 PM   #11
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100% go with Lund Racing Tune. You can buy a SCT package deal and they retune for free if you just add bolt-ons. I think it is like +50 if you change to FI or spray. Looks like you are headed in the right direction with the car.
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Old 05-10-2015, 11:48 AM   #12
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Justin, what package did you end up going with. Looking to see what you thought.
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Old 05-11-2015, 02:54 PM   #13
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What to do next? Any advise is appreciated!

As far as waking the car up in the N/A setup, an aggressive 93 tune from Lund racing would do it. They use the SCT X4 tuner and you can get a deal on lethalperformance.com that comes with two tunes and the SCT for the price of $499. I say Lund because they are the most widely known and used. But Bama and a few others are good.

For more power on the lower end, stick with the stock intake manifold. For the higher end go with a boss intake. The stock air box is fine with either as the gains are minimal (less than 10hp from after airbox) and not worth the $200+ you'll pay. In addition to the tune, I would delete the cats and properly adjust your tune for it, that's another 15-25hp freed up. Mind you that a catless setup and roush axle backs is one of the loudest exhaust combinations on the market.

Other than that, a light set of fully forged/rotary forged wheels in the 25lbs or less will allow your car to get up faster. TSW and Forgestar are the big names that come to mind. Their prices are reasonable as well for the the light wheels we seek. Your gears are the best ratio for acceleration in your setup as well.
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Old 05-11-2015, 03:48 PM   #14
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If you aren't going forced induction, I would just go with mail order tunes. once you go FI, I would look into getting a local tuner tune it.
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Old 05-11-2015, 08:45 PM   #15
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I went with Bama and the SXT tuner. I had most of my parts come in a different times so having the right tune has proven to be a little difficult. I am still trying to get use to the exhaust smell. Running the KOOKS mid length headers and there mid x-pipe with cats produces a smelly exhaust. It was running a little rough in the 93 octane performance tune. Bama told me today to run the race tune a couple of days. Wow now this is what I had expected, in Race tune the car idles smoother, pulls harder and doesn't smell as bad. I was not really feeling the Bama love until today.

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Old 05-11-2015, 11:59 PM   #16
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I have a 2014 GT/CS. All I have is a Steeda 101mm CAI with a Pypes off road x pipe, flowmaster outlaw A/B's with a Lund racing tune. She dyno'd at 469rwhp. Lund has amazing tunes and I'd definitely recommend them, the difference is night and day. The next thing for me is to upgrade the clutch, probably to a Mcleud RST and a one piece drive shaft. I suggest you do the same, the stock clutches don't hold out for too much power, mine slips already!


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Old 05-12-2015, 07:36 AM   #17
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that must have been a very very happy dyno. real world you are around 410 maybe.

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I have a 2014 GT/CS. All I have is a Steeda 101mm CAI with a Pypes off road x pipe, flowmaster outlaw A/B's with a Lund racing tune. She dyno'd at 469rwhp. Lund has amazing tunes and I'd definitely recommend them, the difference is night and day. The next thing for me is to upgrade the clutch, probably to a Mcleud RST and a one piece drive shaft. I suggest you do the same, the stock clutches don't hold out for too much power, mine slips already!


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Old 05-12-2015, 08:03 AM   #18
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Yeah I'm thinking maybe that's the case. Sure doesn't feel like it.


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