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Old 03-16-2015, 02:25 PM   #1
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Opinions between Driveshaft Shop and Dynotech 1 piece

I'm thinking of getting a new 1 piece driveshaft, hopefully to lose a little weight but equally as important to get rid of the f*cking driveshaft clunk. What are you guys opinions on them. What do you have and how do you like it? The only upside I can see to the Dynotech over the DSS is that you dont have to change the pinion flange with the Dynotech. I figure I will screw something up if I go messing with that stuff.
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Old 03-16-2015, 02:42 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by MOOSEDAWG29 View Post
I'm thinking of getting a new 1 piece driveshaft, hopefully to lose a little weight but equally as important to get rid of the f*cking driveshaft clunk. What are you guys opinions on them. What do you have and how do you like it? The only upside I can see to the Dynotech over the DSS is that you dont have to change the pinion flange with the Dynotech. I figure I will screw something up if I go messing with that stuff.
You should really take a look at these people, and less expensive than either of the shops you mentioned.


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Old 03-16-2015, 02:57 PM   #3
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Well right now, you can get 10% off at lethal performance so it would only be $50-$60 more than the shaft master one.

Also I don't know how much it matters, the shaft master uses a 1330 and 1350 u joint where as the DSS uses a 1350 on both ends and I dont know what Dynotech uses.
I just want a good driveshaft right out of the box and wont have problems with.
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Old 03-16-2015, 03:00 PM   #4
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Also might I add the first customer review on the shaftmaster page seems like they are full of *****. 647rwhp with no boost or nitrous, just compression, port and polished heads and cams. Is that really even close to legit? lol
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Old 03-16-2015, 03:21 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by MOOSEDAWG29 View Post
Well right now, you can get 10% off at lethal performance so it would only be $50-$60 more than the shaft master one.

Also I don't know how much it matters, the shaft master uses a 1330 and 1350 u joint where as the DSS uses a 1350 on both ends and I dont know what Dynotech uses.
I just want a good driveshaft right out of the box and wont have problems with.
So, the only difference between a 1330 is that it's OE car, and 1350 is OE truck. Cap difference is 0.126" or about an 1/8". Not going to mater unless you are putting down over 900lbft to wheels. Take a look at the torque test the SM shaft goes through, over 900fllbs of torque before it failed............and see where it failed.
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Old 03-16-2015, 03:22 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by MOOSEDAWG29 View Post
Also might I add the first customer review on the shaftmaster page seems like they are full of *****. 647rwhp with no boost or nitrous, just compression, port and polished heads and cams. Is that really even close to legit? lol
So...........who cares if the guy is stretching the truth? It's not about him but the product! A number of people on this forum have purchased their DS along with myself......................good product and good price plus free shipping...............why pay more?
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Old 03-16-2015, 03:24 PM   #7
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There is also the Steeda Driveshaft:

Steeda Mustang GT 3.5" Aluminum Driveshaft (11-14) 238-steeda-2094 - Free Shipping!

Here are a couple reviews of the unit:

Quote:
So glad this mod is finally installed, came with all necessary bolts needed for installation. Compared to other driveshafts out there, this Steeda one popped right in with no need to change the pinion flange (in case you aren't familiar, this is a huge benefit)! Looks great under the car as well. Even with my gearing there was no increase in NVH and can already tell the car is a bit faster - less rotating mass is always a plus. Shipping was fast! Thanks Steeda.
Quote:
The driveshaft is a great product at a great price. Highlights....

*Install time was 2+ hours
*Car is way more responsive to throttle input
*No increase in noise and no increase in vibration at all RPMS
*Deceleration is less when coasting in gear
*The car generally feels faster as a result of installing the aluminum driveshaft.

I am very happy with the price and quality of Steeda's aluminum driveshaft offering. It was a nice bolt on upgrade and you will immediately feel the impacts of the change from the stock two piece unit.

I hope Steeda puts together a video on how to properly install the aluminum driveshaft. It would have been helpful and reassuring.


I will be happy to provide you with pricing & support ... you can reach me at tim@steeda.com

Best Regards,

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Old 03-16-2015, 03:26 PM   #8
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Yeah a weld failed at near 4000lb/ft. I mean it looks good and that always an option. Just wanting to get an idea of what everyone thinks about all the choices. When one company can sell their product $125 less than the other names, it just makes you wonder what the deal is.
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Old 03-16-2015, 03:28 PM   #9
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Just remember ... the Steeda Driveshaft is:



Best Regards,

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Old 03-16-2015, 03:31 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MOOSEDAWG29 View Post
Yeah a weld failed at near 4000lb/ft. I mean it looks good and that always an option. Just wanting to get an idea of what everyone thinks about all the choices. When one company can sell their product $125 less than the other names, it just makes you wonder what the deal is.
Take a look at the company. They have been in business for quite a while and have a good product, they obviously sell at slimmer profit margins because they are large and aren't out to screw people over. Make a good product and don't charge extra high prices and people will come you and buy it.........simple business 101. Too bad a lot of businesses have forgotten that simple rule.
Did you ever think the other companies are overcharging you!
As for the weld breaking at 4000lbft....................I'd say for the street or strip that's pretty much bullet proof.
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Old 03-16-2015, 03:40 PM   #11
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Maybe Steeda would become an option, but it has a lower hp and tq rating than all the others. And its still $75 more than the shaftmasters one.

Thats the thing olerodder, whenever someone does follow that rule, it makes people raise their eyebrow and wonder what their angle is lol. You're right companies don't think that way anymore. There is a gun store here near me that barely marks all the guns up and just sells the ever loving ***** out of them. And they make a lot of money. Go somewhere else and they are easily $100 more minimum.

You've definitely got me thinking man. Plus, if I don't have to beat the 10% sale at lethal, I don't have to buy it just yet either.
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Old 03-16-2015, 03:44 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by tj@steeda View Post
Just remember ... the Steeda Driveshaft is:



Best Regards,

TJ
TJ,
I think most drive shaft people like DSS, SM, IED, Denny's, Coast and others are made in the USofA. My question for you would be to ask where does your aluminum tubing come from?
Unfortunately to put the Made-in-the USA sticker only means the manufacturer has to provide 35% work content to the product in the USofA. I'm not inferring that Steeda doesn't manfucturer a 100% USofA product, but there are aftermarket companies out there that don't. I've seen some of their parts in China.....................in the raw.
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Old 03-16-2015, 03:45 PM   #13
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The forum price will take care of the cost ... how much HP are you looking to achieve!!

TJ
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Old 03-16-2015, 03:45 PM   #14
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Which 1-piece driveshaft is the BEST?
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Old 03-16-2015, 03:50 PM   #15
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I'd like to see hard proof, not just people's opinions.
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Old 03-16-2015, 03:51 PM   #16
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Quote:
TJ,
I think most drive shaft people like DSS, SM, IED, Denny's, Coast and others are made in the USofA. My question for you would be to ask where does your aluminum tubing come from?
It is proprietary information ... but I can tell you that our driveshafts are made to spec by a supplier of driveshafts for other large companies ... which are manufactured right here in the U.S.A.

Yes, when we do our manufacturing in the U.S.A. ... we also use raw materials from the U.S. too ... no short cuts!

TJ
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Old 03-16-2015, 03:52 PM   #17
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The stock drive shaft will handle 600+ hp like a boss.

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Old 03-16-2015, 03:52 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tj@steeda View Post
It is proprietary information ... but I can tell you that our driveshafts are made to spec by a supplier of driveshafts for other large comapies ... which are manufactured right here in the U.S.A.

Yes, when we do our manufacturing in the U.S.A. ... we also use raw materials from here the U.S. too ... no short cuts!

TJ
Ok, thanks for clarifying that.
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Old 03-16-2015, 03:53 PM   #19
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Mine never broke. Just replaced it once we saw over 7

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Old 03-16-2015, 03:55 PM   #20
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The forum price will take care of the cost ... how much HP are you looking to achieve!!

TJ
Well I will be installing a blower here pretty soon and that will put me in the 600-650rwhp range. And later down the road when the motor is done and in need of rebuild then I'll up the boost and shoot well passed the 750 hp mark. Don't want to be worrying about a driveshaft later down the road. Wanna do it right the first time. Also, could you please pm me about the pricing anyways.
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Old 03-16-2015, 04:13 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olerodder View Post
I'd like to see hard proof, not just people's opinions.
The link has lots of good reading and proof in some cases to back it up. It's up to the individual to decide in the long run.

Personally I don't see anything wrong with the stock unit. Especially considering the cost of these things.
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Old 03-16-2015, 04:22 PM   #22
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The link has lots of good reading and proof in some cases to back it up. It's up to the individual to decide in the long run.

Personally I don't see anything wrong with the stock unit. Especially considering the cost of these things.
Yeah I can think of a lot of other things to spend $700 on. But the clunk is driving me crazy, makes me feel like I'm riding in a clunky old piece of *****, and thats certainly not what it is.
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Old 03-16-2015, 04:27 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grabber Blue5.0 View Post
The link has lots of good reading and proof in some cases to back it up. It's up to the individual to decide in the long run.

Personally I don't see anything wrong with the stock unit. Especially considering the cost of these things.
I concur, each person has to decide.
I only read down 5/6 opinions and sometimes I just get tired of reading them. I'd be more comfortable seeing mechanical tests showing the weld breaks at 3000lbft or deformed at 12000rpm.
I've just never been a fan of two piece drive shafts and have never had any issue with any of the one piece aluminum shafts.
I guess it just makes me feel more comfortable to have a one piece driveline.........
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Old 03-16-2015, 07:50 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by olerodder View Post
So...........who cares if the guy is stretching the truth? It's not about him but the product! A number of people on this forum have purchased their DS along with myself......................good product and good price plus free shipping...............why pay more?
So how many options are there now? 4? I never heard of the one you recommended. Are there any points for one over another other than price?
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Old 03-16-2015, 08:28 PM   #25
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I think they are all good. I purchased the Shaftmasters for my 2014 GT. Excellent piece. Install was easy. Absolutely dead smooth. I've run it up to 120 mph with no issues. Plus $600 was better than 7-800. Go with Shaftmasters you won't be sorry.
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Old 03-16-2015, 09:05 PM   #26
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So how many options are there now? 4? I never heard of the one you recommended. Are there any points for one over another other than price?
SM is good quality, price is where it should be and you don't need any spacers/adapters just take out the old one and put in the SM..............just the best bang for my $$$$

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Old 03-16-2015, 09:11 PM   #27
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Thanks for the info. Looks like they're pretty much the same weights.
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Old 03-17-2015, 12:26 PM   #28
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Yeah I can think of a lot of other things to spend $700 on. But the clunk is driving me crazy, makes me feel like I'm riding in a clunky old piece of *****, and thats certainly not what it is.
I bought a DSS Carbon Fiber DS and the clunk didn't go away. It's the lash in the rear end. Crawl under the rear end and twist the DS back and forth and you will see there is a lot of slack. Dealer said that is normal for this car. What else would you expect a dealer to say.
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Old 03-17-2015, 12:37 PM   #29
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I have one from ::::::::

The Axle Exchange It came with both ends attached, It went on perfect, It got rid of the clunk as well as 100% of vibrations. It is less then 1/2 the weight of the stock cast iron crap that Ford saved a dime on when making my Mustang.

Does anyone want to buy a stock 3.7 V6 Mustang Drive shaft????? I will sell it for less then Fords $800.00+ price but buyer must pay the 43 pound UPS shipping.

I wish I would have installed an aluminum drive shaft when I first got my Mustang. Any of the aluminum are better then the stock 3.7 V6 one.

Mine even had a "FORD RACING" sticker in the box when I got it. That has to be good for 50 horsepower.
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Old 03-17-2015, 12:55 PM   #30
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I bought a DSS Carbon Fiber DS and the clunk didn't go away. It's the lash in the rear end. Crawl under the rear end and twist the DS back and forth and you will see there is a lot of slack. Dealer said that is normal for this car. What else would you expect a dealer to say.
Had my 14 up on stands this past weekend and I don't have a clunk or slack when I turn the drive shaft back an forth. My car has less than 7k miles.
I wouldn't be going back to that dealer.
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Old 03-17-2015, 01:16 PM   #31
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I went with shaftmasters and it has been great. Mine was $599. I wanted to go with American Muscle and buy everything I can from them. That said I couldn't justify the extra $200.
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Old 03-17-2015, 01:50 PM   #32
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FYI
Failure level of a product or material is not a standard nor can it be compared to a "rating" of a product or material.
A rating takes into account certain required safety factors.
Failure levels can vary considerably with the same manufacturers product.
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Old 03-17-2015, 02:06 PM   #33
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FYI
Failure level of a product or material is not a standard nor can it be compared to a "rating" of a product or material.
A rating takes into account certain required safety factors.
Failure levels can vary considerably with the same manufacturers product.
Maybe I'm a little dense, but I don't understand what you just said?
So, are you saying that 6061 is not tested the same way 7075 is?
I think ASTMB210 pretty much puts everything on the same playing field at least in aluminum tubes.
And yes, different people can test the end product differently, but the material doesn't change..................at least I haven't seen it change during a manufacturing process.
Have you ever looked at the build process of bicycle aluminum frames made from 6061 or ZR9000?
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Old 03-17-2015, 02:33 PM   #34
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Maybe I'm a little dense, but I don't understand what you just said?
So, are you saying that 6061 is not tested the same way 7075 is?
I think ASTMB210 pretty much puts everything on the same playing field at least in aluminum tubes.
And yes, different people can test the end product differently, but the material doesn't change..................at least I haven't seen it change during a manufacturing process.
Have you ever looked at the build process of bicycle aluminum frames made from 6061 or ZR9000?
No, I'm not trying to compare the individual materials used in the makeup of the finished product, only the finished product ratings.
I just noticed some reference to failure ratings, which although may be related to the products final rating, can not and should not be used to compare to a (assembled) product's actual rating. Just didn't want some people to mix up the two. There generally is a big difference.
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Old 03-17-2015, 02:40 PM   #35
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No, I'm not trying to compare the individual materials used in the makeup of the finished product, only the finished product ratings.
I just noticed some reference to failure ratings, which although may be related to the products final rating, can not and should not be used to compare to a (assembled) product's actual rating. Just didn't want some people to mix up the two. There generally is a big difference.
Oh, ok.
If you look at the SM site they actually show their driveshaft being tested to failure which was 4000lbft....I think. Most driveline manufactures that I have bought from (I mentioned them earlier) to the same test.............so as far as raw material and testing procedures they don't vary enough to worry about. At least this is my experience.
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