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Positive battery terminal corrosion

23K views 32 replies 20 participants last post by  Mlp07 
#1 ·
Anybody know how much it would cost to get my positive terminal changed the corrosion ate it up so bad I'm not gonna be able to get by on just cleaning it up anymore

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#9 ·
wtty?

I will caution most dealers won't splice the cable they will want to replace the harness. If it ain't wtty work and you don't want to fix it yourself go to a local garage to have a splice put in.

old school here, I cover the terminals with grease to prevent oxidation.

edit:: it the terminal is shot you'll need a new battery.
 
#11 ·
Once you get the battery and the battery cable replaced, try this trick to prevent future corrosion issues; spray the post/battery cable connections with hair spray. It works!

Backing soda is good for cleaning, and a good dielectric grease or hairspray will help keep the posts/connections from corroding.
 
#13 ·
I had the same problem. The positive clamp won't even loosen because it's fused together. Called the dealership and they can't replace anything battery related under warranty, and they won't just give you a positive terminal clamp, you have to buy the entire cable positive and negative which is like $360.

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#15 ·
I had the same problem. The positive clamp won't even loosen because it's fused together. Called the dealership and they can't replace anything battery related under warranty, and they won't just give you a positive terminal clamp, you have to buy the entire cable positive and negative which is like $360.

View attachment 178163 View attachment 178164

curious how that battery and terminal got in that shape, and ****ing Ford and their weak ass warranty coverages smh one of our Dodge Charger patrol vehicles had a bad battery (after about 2yrs of service) and our local dealership said it was covered under the bumper to bumper to warranty and replaced it no questions asked


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#18 ·
Yes that is pretty bad, all suggestions above work, I had a similar problem on my 2000 GT, I had enough slack in the cable so I cut the old ends off and put on a new ones, I also put the felt washers on both post of the battery and used some terminal protector spray which took care of my corrosion issues!
 
#22 ·
This is a common recurrent problem on 2011 GT's. My 2011 GT CS had the same problem. I fought it with grease, anti corrosion, etc.. The wiring harness was corroded when I found it. My mechanics ignored it and were fired of course. It is definitely a manufacturing defect and Ford should be liable for the expense. It cost me over $1200.00 to get the harness fixed and battery replaced. Mine was out of warranty of course.
 
#24 ·
The factory battery in my 11 GT was leaking around the positive terminal unknown to me as I don't drive it much in winter. Had to replace the entire engine harness as just the ends are not replacable. What a *****. It is literally the entire power distribution harness from fuse box to electric power steering to transmission and of course the battery. What a piss poor design.
 
#25 ·
I've got a 2012. No sign of anything like that. Glad it seems to be a case by case issue
 
#27 · (Edited)
I had to do the same thing yesterday...great way to end my birthday weekend...

My battery looked exactly like yours OP. Matter of fact the battery stud itself broke in half along with the positive terminal module too.

I ended up having to get a new battery (obviously since the stud broke in half) and a new battery terminal end/adapter.

Now no issues.

Same year too. 2012 Base V6.

Whats even more crazy is have nothing pushing the power but the car. No subs, no aftermarket speakers, radio etc....

So annoying to deal with but I am glad I did it and it seems to be a better setup than it was before.
 
#28 ·
I'm in the same situation. 2012 GT with only 6500 miles. Battery was completely corroded on positive side but I've got a little bit of clamp left....enough to hold it onto the battery. I'm going to switch to a lightweight Deka battery but will be needing the harness. I can't believe they only sell the whole part and not just the positive clamp? Anyone found a way around this?
 
#29 ·
I've got that red cover off so many times switching tunes and stuff that mine would never get into a state like that. This is a battery problem, not a harness one. If the battery is showing ANY signs of leakage or corrosion like this don't ignore it, just replace it, regardless of whether you feel it should be warranteed or not. Modern cars punish batteries quite hard with all their electrical stuff.
 
#30 ·
The same thing is happening to us right now. Car won't even attempt to turn over. We have power to the lights and radio but nothing more. At first we thought it was the starter because we had power. So we bought and replaced that. Nothing. Then I went back to the battery. Noticed the postive terminal wasn't very corroded because the battery is fairly new. But the old battery was pretty bad. The positive terminal clamp is in pretty bad shape. Can we just change the clamp? Or do we need a brand new set of wires and everything? Any help would be really appreciated!
 

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#31 ·
If it was mine I would cut back the old corroded cable to where it is good and splice in a length of wire. there is a lot of current that runs through this make sure the wire is sized properly and well insulated. If you are not confident you can do this go to your local mechanice and ask him/her to do it. I would not go to a Ford dealer as they may want to replace the entire harness= big $

reminder to all to check connections every once in a while.
 
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