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Old 04-14-2015, 08:48 AM   #1
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Drive Shaft Issues

Hey guys, I have had several problems with this car since I have had it.

The rearend has howled since I bought the car. Dealership didn't want to work on it because they said it wouldn't fix it. The shop foreman stated he had replace ring and pinions as well as complete assemblies for several people and it never fixed the problem, it just changed the speed at which it howled. He told me to drive it until I hit 10k and if it still was doing it (which it obviously was going to be) then he would work on it. I am at 9500 miles and its howling loud enough I can hear it sometimes over an x-pipe and muffler delete.

The other issue, main issue is the drive shaft. Its been replaced once about 4000 miles ago because the center support bearing was coming apart. The rubber was so weak that the part that actually holds the shaft was touching the bearings bracket so it made a horrible grinding noise/clunk. Now it is making a clunk every time I shift almost, and if I am coasting with my foot on the clutch and I go back and forth between 3rd and 4th gear it makes the clunk quite loudly.

Recently I put Eibach Sportlines, a SR adj. panhard, and adj. UMI LCAs. I have a definite clunk from the LCAs, and the panhard, but I don't think it is related. I put the car in the air last night and I could move the center support bearing quite drastically in the bracket. I am waiting on my LCA relocation brackets, and then I can set the pinion angle but I don't think it should move this much. Oh and the boot on the driveshaft at the center support bearing is spitting grease out already...

Has anyone else had these issues?
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Old 04-14-2015, 11:18 AM   #2
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Sounds like you have all kinds of driveline issues.

Why not replace the crappy stock 2 piece shaft with a 1-piece aluminum one.

You'll like the difference. I got the shaftmasters one for $600. Makes the car accelerate much easier and its quieter.
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Old 04-14-2015, 11:21 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by c_rizzle View Post
Sounds like you have all kinds of driveline issues.

Why not replace the crappy stock 2 piece shaft with a 1-piece aluminum one.

You'll like the difference. I got the shaftmasters one for $600. Makes the car accelerate much easier and its quieter.
Well, I guess if it comes down to it I will, but I hate to spend 600$ on a drive shaft on a practically brand new car. Seems stupid for me to spend my money to replace Ford's junk engineering.

D
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Old 04-14-2015, 01:45 PM   #4
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Well, its for the higher performance... as an added bonus it should fix the crappy stock driveshaft problems. I replaced mine & had nothing wrong with my driveshaft at all.

Just like you've spent money on the suspension b/c you wanted lower stance / better traction, etc.
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Old 04-14-2015, 01:48 PM   #5
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Yea, but if this car was 100% stock, it would still have the issue. Because this is the second time its had the problem. It was untouched except for axle backs the first time. I feel they should have to fix the problem. Not me. Stock driveshaft should be fine until I start messing with the engine. I just wanted to know if others have had trouble with the center support bearing and how much play does it normally have.

D
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Old 04-14-2015, 02:05 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ihasfip View Post
Hey guys, I have had several problems with this car since I have had it.

The rearend has howled since I bought the car. Dealership didn't want to work on it because they said it wouldn't fix it. The shop foreman stated he had replace ring and pinions as well as complete assemblies for several people and it never fixed the problem, it just changed the speed at which it howled. He told me to drive it until I hit 10k and if it still was doing it (which it obviously was going to be) then he would work on it. I am at 9500 miles and its howling loud enough I can hear it sometimes over an x-pipe and muffler delete.

The other issue, main issue is the drive shaft. Its been replaced once about 4000 miles ago because the center support bearing was coming apart. The rubber was so weak that the part that actually holds the shaft was touching the bearings bracket so it made a horrible grinding noise/clunk. Now it is making a clunk every time I shift almost, and if I am coasting with my foot on the clutch and I go back and forth between 3rd and 4th gear it makes the clunk quite loudly.

Recently I put Eibach Sportlines, a SR adj. panhard, and adj. UMI LCAs. I have a definite clunk from the LCAs, and the panhard, but I don't think it is related. I put the car in the air last night and I could move the center support bearing quite drastically in the bracket. I am waiting on my LCA relocation brackets, and then I can set the pinion angle but I don't think it should move this much. Oh and the boot on the driveshaft at the center support bearing is spitting grease out already...

Has anyone else had these issues?
If you have a clunk from your LCA's and Pan Hard bar you have a definite problem. There should be no movement in either. Which UMI LCA's and Pan Hard bar do you have, hopefully not the ones with the adjuster in the center.
As for the whine in the rearend my 14 has a whine and it's not getting any better. At speed it almost sounds like a straight cut quick change rearend, and I've had 3:73's in my 97 SVT Cobra and they also made their fair share of noise. After lowering mine with Sportlines my driveline angle did change slightly and I have a Shaftmasters 1 piece drive line in the box waiting to replace the 2 piece OE. I also have an adjustable UCA are that will go in at the same time.
Have you ever measured the driveline angle? Did you bring your rearend square when you dropped the car......since you do have an adjustable Pan Hard bar?
Just some thoughts.
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Old 04-14-2015, 02:17 PM   #7
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The UMI LCAs are the one with the adjuster in the middle. Poly at one end, roto joint at the other. The panhard has heims at both ends. I cannot move the control arms or the panhard at all in any direction. It started making the noise when I installed the springs/panhard. LCA's came after. I sqaured up the rearend as best as possible yes. I have not measured the pinion angle yet, I am waiting to look at my buddies 13 GT to see what condition his center support bearing is in. I even pulled it all loose and made sure the springs were oriented the way I thought they were supposed to be...
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Old 04-14-2015, 02:31 PM   #8
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Oh, you have the UMI #1061's then.
When you have a "rod end" type of joint (metal on metal) you need take up slack when you install them. What I mean is install them, then tighten them up (by hand) not a lot, but just enough to make sure any slack is taken up. The same with the panhard bar. You should be within .125" off square in the rear.....I am assuming you did this when you installed the springs and did a number of roll outs with the car to set the suspension before tightening everything down and using locktite.
A clunk means something is moving which is never good. I'd measure the driveshaft angle soon and not wait........IMHO
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Old 04-14-2015, 02:44 PM   #9
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Oh, you have the UMI #1061's then.
When you have a "rod end" type of joint (metal on metal) you need take up slack when you install them. What I mean is install them, then tighten them up (by hand) not a lot, but just enough to make sure any slack is taken up. The same with the panhard bar. You should be within .125" off square in the rear.....I am assuming you did this when you installed the springs and did a number of roll outs with the car to set the suspension before tightening everything down and using locktite.
A clunk means something is moving which is never good. I'd measure the driveshaft angle soon and not wait........IMHO
Well I don't know if it was down to an 1/8th , I don't recall the exact measurements. As for hand tightening them no. I laid the lca's out and made them same length as the stockers and installed them. Did the same for the panhard but then adjusted it . Double checked all bolts and jam nuts. I twist the panhard back and forth on the heims. Meaning the outer part moves easily on the inner spherical portion. I am waiting on my angle finder to get here. Surely the angle isn't that bad. Tons of people run the sportlines with no issue and no control arms. I know there is a clunk related to the new suspension parts, be it the springs, the panhard or the lca's I don't know. But there is also some sort of clunk that I think I completely different from the suspension. Sounds like the drive line. Like I said I can be coasting with the clutch depressed and try and move it back and forth from 3rd to 4th and get a definite clunk you can feel, as well as a slight resistance going into those gears. At a dead stop it doesn't make the clunk nor is it difficult to shift. I can also get on and off the gas in a lower gear and feel the same clunk.

D
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Old 04-14-2015, 03:15 PM   #10
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Well I don't know if it was down to an 1/8th , I don't recall the exact measurements. As for hand tightening them no. I laid the lca's out and made them same length as the stockers and installed them. Did the same for the panhard but then adjusted it . Double checked all bolts and jam nuts. I twist the panhard back and forth on the heims. Meaning the outer part moves easily on the inner spherical portion. I am waiting on my angle finder to get here. Surely the angle isn't that bad. Tons of people run the sportlines with no issue and no control arms. I know there is a clunk related to the new suspension parts, be it the springs, the panhard or the lca's I don't know. But there is also some sort of clunk that I think I completely different from the suspension. Sounds like the drive line. Like I said I can be coasting with the clutch depressed and try and move it back and forth from 3rd to 4th and get a definite clunk you can feel, as well as a slight resistance going into those gears. At a dead stop it doesn't make the clunk nor is it difficult to shift. I can also get on and off the gas in a lower gear and feel the same clunk.

D
The other clunk you hear is the drive line. That is part of the reason I'm changing mine............I really get tired of hearing it, not all of the time, but a lot. It's the slip joint in the driveshaft as the yoke attached to the transmission has no slip yoke like they used to, it's pretty much solid, so the shaft has to slip back and forth...................personally I've never liked two piece drive lines, just another reason I'm changing mine.
When you measure to see if you rearend is centered, take a bolt and tie it to a string, tape the string center over the rear wheel on the body (on the wheel arch of the body), let it hang down on both sides. Take the measurement from the string to anyplace on the wheel as long as it's the same on both sides, then minus on from the other, say you have 2.225" on one side and 2.000" on the other, you come out with 0.225" which is the difference, then divide by 2, and you get .125". That should be the maximum, and if you have more raise the car, turn the panhard bar 1/2 turn, lower the car, roll it 10/20', then measure the distance again.......................
With the LCA's, when you install them (at ride height), after measuring the distance and making the LCA's the same, before you tighten the bolts/nuts turn the LCA by hand to snug it up against the bolts, it doesn't need to be supper tight, just resistance with you hand turning the bar............then lock the nut and don't forget to put locktite on the nut. One thing I always do (comes from my racing days) is to mark the nut, LCA with a permanent marker so you can visually look to see that nothing has moved..............if it has, well, do it all over again.
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Old 04-14-2015, 03:18 PM   #11
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OK. Great. I will try and do that tomorrow after work and see what I come up with. Thanks for all the help and suggestions. Will update when I know more.

D
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Old 04-14-2015, 03:35 PM   #12
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OK. Great. I will try and do that tomorrow after work and see what I come up with. Thanks for all the help and suggestions. Will update when I know more.

D
One last thing, don't forget to torque the LCA and Pan Hard bolts to 129ftlb. If you reused the old nuts/bolts I'd at least try for 100/110ftlb.
Let us know how it goes.
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Old 04-14-2015, 11:15 PM   #13
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Well I went through and got the rear pretty much dead centered. Went through and tried everything else y'all suggested. Still had the clunks. So I squeezed my skinny *** under there and had my buddy rock the car. The play came from the roto joint it seemed like. So I tightened them up. Still had a clunk. Put the stockers on for now.

Still have the driveshaft clunk and the weird tranny clunk when shifting. Oh well. After I get my angle gauge and take the lca's apart and put them back together maybe I will at least get the driveshaft clunk fixed. If not its back to the dealer... Will update.

D
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Old 04-14-2015, 11:19 PM   #14
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Well I went through and got the rear pretty much dead centered. Went through and tried everything else y'all suggested. Still had the clunks. So I squeezed my skinny *** under there and had my buddy rock the car. The play came from the roto joint it seemed like. So I tightened them up. Still had a clunk. Put the stockers on for now.

Still have the driveshaft clunk and the weird tranny clunk when shifting. Oh well. After I get my angle gauge and take the lca's apart and put them back together maybe I will at least get the driveshaft clunk fixed. If not its back to the dealer... Will update.

D
Send pictures of the "roto joint", I would think it's like an enclosed rod end.................just never heard the word before.
If you solve the clunk in the drive shaft let me know as I have the same thing...............I've had it since about 3500 miles. I got the car with 2700 miles on it.
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Old 04-14-2015, 11:28 PM   #15
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Just google UMI roto joint. My phone is being stupid. Its basically like Curries Johnny Joint. Or Trail Gears Creeper Joints (off road world).
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Old 04-15-2015, 12:02 AM   #16
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Ok, now I see. A metal bearing riding in a plastic joint/cushion.
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