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Old 04-23-2015, 09:12 AM   #1
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Battery dies after installing amplifier

I had a 4ch amp in my car I recently just added another amplifier to drive my subwoofer. I pulled the power and remote from my 4 channel to my second amp. I grounded the new amp to the bolt that holds the rear seat down. The first day I had it all wired up I was playing music for less than 10 minutes with the key in the igniting but the car off, and my battery died. I jump started my car drove to my class and back. Yesterday morning the car started fine. After work it hesitated a little to start as If the battery was dying. Today it was dead. Jump started it and drove to work. When I got out of my car to get my stuff from my trunk I noticed both amps were on. Is there a possibility the remote is wired to a constant power source? Shouldn't the amps be hooked up to go on and off with the stereo? Any pointers as to what to look for?

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Old 04-23-2015, 10:07 AM   #2
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Your remote wire is going to the battery instead of the head unit.

edit: I have never wired one of these before I'm just googling ****. If I understand correctly, the amp gets power directly from the battery, and there is also a remote wire that goes to the head unit. If you swapped these wires by mistake I assume you'd get the issue you are describing. Since you jumped from one amp to the other, if you connected one of the remotes directly to the battery then both of them will always be on. It sounds like when you had one amp it worked properly, so I'm willing to bet you just swapped a wire somewhere accidentally.
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Old 04-23-2015, 11:37 AM   #3
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I pulled the remote from one to another, I'm going to go through all the wiring today. But yes it was working properly before.

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Old 04-23-2015, 12:17 PM   #4
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The remote wire simply tells the amp to turn on or off. If it is run correctly from the radio wire harness the key will turn on and it will power up. If it worked before and all you did was loop it from the first amp to the second amp you shouldn't have had any problems.

Here is my suggestion.

Look at the remote wire and where it connects to the amps. This is typically right next to the actual hot power 12v. Maybe one little strand of remote wire found its way over there and is causing the wire to always be hot. That's just a quick visual inspection.

If nothing is obvious, I'd use a test light and see if the remote has power when the key is off. Shouldn't. But if it does id disconnect the newly added amp and try again. It's possible that your new addition has an internal short. Causing 12v to run back through the remote wire to your first amp and make it kick on.

Last thing to check is the original remote wire with a test light disconnected from both amps. Shouldn't have power without the key. If it does...you wired it wrong. Maybe it's been that way since you originally wired it but it never killed the battery before with just one amp. Now 2 is just enough to kill it, plus it could be finally catching up to you and the battery could be taking a crap.

Keep us updated. I'm curious as to what the issue is.
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Old 04-23-2015, 12:20 PM   #5
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I didn't do the first install I took it to a shop and when I added the second amp I saw the pos work they did. I wouldn't doubt it if they pulled the remote from a constant battery source. I will check today.

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Old 04-23-2015, 12:23 PM   #6
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Yep.

Use a voltmeter, to check the voltage of the remote wire when car is off. It obviously should be 0, but I'm guessing there's some problem somewhere.

If there was juice on it. Disconnect new amp completely & retest.

IF there's still juice on the remote wire, trace it back to where you have it hooked up or tap a new (unused) fuse that only gets power when the key is turned.
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Old 04-23-2015, 12:29 PM   #7
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Do any of you know what wire I can tap into from the harness that goes into the stereo to tap the remote wire in to?

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Old 04-23-2015, 12:47 PM   #8
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Battery dies after installing amplifier

Do you have an aftermarket head unit? If you do, then they should have used a wire harness adapter. This will literally be labeled remote/amp wire

If not, I have the wire diagram at home. I can pull it up tonight.
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Old 04-23-2015, 01:20 PM   #9
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I have the factory radio.

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Old 04-23-2015, 01:24 PM   #10
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I have 2 loc behind the stock hu one for the front and one for the rears. One of them has a remote wire going to the amo. I think the installer tapped into the wrong wire.

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Old 04-23-2015, 04:39 PM   #11
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Some amps will auto shutoff when not in use for extended period of time.

ie: your first amp may have always been wired incorrectly, but b/c it auto shut off you never ran down your battery. Where your new amp stays on ready to go, draining down your battery.

You don't need a remote wire, like I said just tap a fuse from fuse box area that only gets power when the key is turned there are a few like that unused.
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Old 04-23-2015, 04:44 PM   #12
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This Is so confusing. I'm gonna go through the wiring here in a few

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Old 04-23-2015, 06:25 PM   #13
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I went through the wiring it looks right. When my key is in the amps kick on if I shut the engine off and take the keys out the amps stay on for another like 30 seconds till the clock on the stereo goes off. Does that sound right? Or are the amps supposed to shut off as soon as the ignition is shut off?

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Old 04-23-2015, 07:39 PM   #14
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No they should shut off when the radio does actually. So that's right
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Old 04-23-2015, 07:41 PM   #15
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Yea see its right.i went and had my battery tested and the guy said it was good but on its last quarter

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Old 04-23-2015, 07:50 PM   #16
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Sounds like you need an optima
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Old 04-23-2015, 07:52 PM   #17
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I told the guy at the autoparts store I was going to buy one, his eyes were glowing. Told him I can get it on Amazon for 50 dollars less and have it at my door tomorrow he just said is there anything else I can help you with no thanks lol

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Old 04-23-2015, 07:56 PM   #18
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Summit racing has good prices in them also
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Old 04-23-2015, 07:57 PM   #19
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So would a bad battery be causing this issue?

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Old 04-23-2015, 08:02 PM   #20
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If the battery is weak already it could be your problem. It takes a decent cycle to recharge the battery properly if it's low. So let's say you start your car, drive a few miles and shut it off (5 min of driving) you prob didn't even get the battery recharged to the same point it was before you started it. Do that a few times in a day and eventually that weak battery just doesn't have the cranking amps it needs to turn over your motor anymore.

Another thing to think about, do you have anything else plugged in that is draining the battery or putting a draw on it? Like a cigarette lighter accessory of some sort? This can add to your problems as well.
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Old 04-23-2015, 08:12 PM   #21
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I have nothing else plugged in.

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Old 04-24-2015, 12:11 AM   #22
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Turn off your radio and roll down your Windows. Problem solved...
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Old 04-24-2015, 07:08 PM   #23
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Replaced my battery today and looks like problem solved

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Old 04-24-2015, 07:40 PM   #24
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What did you get?
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Old 04-24-2015, 09:06 PM   #25
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Another Motorcraft battery the wife flipped when she saw how much an optima was

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Old 04-24-2015, 09:18 PM   #26
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Aww boooooo. Lol. That's when you say something like "I guess YOU can put a price on my safety". Then when she asks how it makes you safer, you say anything is safer than being stranded on the side of the road with "the other guys" battery. What's sad is that Optimas pay for themselves. Last one I had was 8 years old and still going strong. Buddy if mine has one 11 years old (with over 175,000 miles) still going strong. It's the last battery you would have ever bought. Oh well though. Glad your problem is solved at least.
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Old 04-24-2015, 09:40 PM   #27
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Yeah I tried she's just like do you need a 200+dollar battery or do you just want it.

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---------- Post added at 02:40 AM ---------- Previous post was at 02:40 AM ----------

But then again I only paid 65 for this brand new battery. So it wasn't a bad deal

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Old 04-25-2015, 01:54 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrdnsky59 View Post
Yeah I tried she's just like do you need a 200+dollar battery or do you just want it.

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---------- Post added at 02:40 AM ---------- Previous post was at 02:40 AM ----------

But then again I only paid 65 for this brand new battery. So it wasn't a bad deal

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I'd have sold you mine for cheap. I'm thinking about getting a Braille battery, but find it hard to justify when my battery works fine.
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Old 04-25-2015, 01:55 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by c_rizzle View Post
I'd have sold you mine for cheap. I'm thinking about getting a Braille battery, but find it hard to justify when my battery works fine.

What's the price? Lol
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Old 04-25-2015, 04:18 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by c_rizzle View Post
I'd have sold you mine for cheap. I'm thinking about getting a Braille battery, but find it hard to justify when my battery works fine.
Pm me a price

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Old 04-25-2015, 06:36 PM   #31
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Stock replacements are about $120, right?

I was going to ask $50. The problem is shipping. If you're not near me (New Orleans) the shipping would be too expensive to probably make it worthwhile.
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Old 04-25-2015, 06:54 PM   #32
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This is a common problem, some were you wired it incorrectly instead of it only taking power when the car is on its taking power when its on and off taping into the battery and running it flat


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Old 04-25-2015, 08:30 PM   #33
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When the clock on my stereo goes off after turning off the engine so does the amps. I believe it's right

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