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Old 05-03-2015, 02:29 PM   #1
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Lowering '13 GT

I'm new to forum so excuse if this is redundant. I want to lower my '13 GT
Bout 1". I'm not tracking my car but want the lower profile and enhanced handling plus a ride my fiancé will accept while she enjoys her cup of coffee..I don't want to spend thousands but want to do it right. There seems to be an endless selection of springs, etc. available. Thanks, GT Steve
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Old 05-03-2015, 02:48 PM   #2
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What is your question and what are you looking to do for suspension? You can spend under 1k and get lower control arms, upper adjustable control arm, upper mount, relocation brackets, new panhard bar, springs and camber bolts.

Plenty of spring choices out there. I personally went with Eibach Pro-Kit: Eibach Pro-Kit Mustang Springs 35125.14 (11-14 GT, V6, BOSS) - Free Shipping

which lowers 1" in the front and 1.5" in the rear to level the vehicle out, get rid of the atrocious wheel gap and improve the handling a bit.

Slightly stiffer ride than normal, but not obnoxious, plenty streetable.

I also went with (All BMR here): Lower control arms (non-adj), upper control arm (adj, having a few issues with pinion angle here, need to get it up on an alignment rack to properly set), relocation brackets for lowers, upper control arm mount, adjustable panhard bar to re-center the axle after lowering.

Panhard, relocation brackets and upper mount are important to get the car sitting right again after a drop. The panhard helps align the rear axle to center after a drop as with stock and a drop your driver's side rear will be shifted a bit more out than the right. Adjustable Upper arm will help dial the pinion angle in, upper mount will help get the instant center back on track after a drop. Relocation brackets will help correct the angle of your lower arms and camber bolts will correct any front-end out of whack-ness to a minimal degree, just right for a 1" drop. If you ever track the car I would suggest proper caster/camber plates. For the street and straight line, the bolts are fine, IMO.
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Old 05-03-2015, 03:25 PM   #3
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If you only going to drop the car 1" in front and 1.5" in the rear you do not need any of "infamous" caster/camber bolts or caster camber plates.....and the bolts could be dangerous as they are much smaller than the stock bolts................I've helped lower 6 late model Mustangs including my own (which I used Eibach Sportlines) and non of the cars needed an alignment. The Sportlines lower more than the Pro's (1.4" front/ 2+" rear) and even with the Sportlines my alignment was still within Ford Spec.
If you are just looking for a nicer looking car I'd just use all BMR stuff, lowering springs, adjustable panhard bar and non-adjustable lower control arms. You can put in upper control arm but unless it's needed (you just need to check driveline angle) I wouldn't put one in.
One thing that really changes the ride after you drop the car is a good set of struts/shocks like Koni or Bilstien, they are made for lowered cars and seem to soften up the ride a little once it's lowered. The downside to the struts/shocks is they will set you back $600/800, but if you put them in at the time you put your springs in it will save tearing it apart again...................or just use the stock struts/shocks.
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Old 05-03-2015, 03:33 PM   #4
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^^ I haven't put in any c/c plates or new bolts when I have done mine. I eyeballed my Panhard and measured afterwards since I strangely have a thing for angles/distance and was +2mm to the passenger side with my eyeballs so I just locked it down after that without any further adjusment after double checking my super vision with a plumb I don't see much of a change in my front end after lowering it, either so I left any extras out. I will, of course, double check this week on an alignment rack when i get the chance but right now she's sitting on all fours and I go up and down the curb to the driveway a few times and around the block slowly-ish over the next few days to get the new suspension moving and settling a bit before dialing in everything perfectly like pinion angle (having an issue with the adjustable UCA from BMR) and an alignment. A few days of full weight on the new stuff will help calm and settle it in WITHOUT beating on it.
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Old 05-03-2015, 03:54 PM   #5
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For us guys who don't have "bionic eyes", when installing an adjustable panhard bar, after lowering the car and installing the panhard bar at factory length (same length as the factory one piece you took off) run two plumb lines down from the center of the wheel lip to the center of the wheel, measure the distance from the plumb line to each wheel, say one measurement is 2-3/4" and the other is 2-1/4"...........subtract one from the other and you come up with 1/2" difference, then divide by 2 and you come up with 1/4". That is distance you need to move the rearend.
When I lowered my car, the Ford factory spec for caster is a minimum of 6.4 degrees and maximum of 7.9 degrees. Mine fell at 7.8 degrees. Factory camber is -1.5 degrees and maximum of 0.0 degrees.........mine came in at -1.2 degrees.
If you have a an iPhone there is great app called iAlign and it can confirm if your front end is out of alignment or not, just like the app called Tremec Tool Box which will help you measure your driveline angle.....................great tools for only a couple of $$.
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Old 05-03-2015, 04:17 PM   #6
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Less about bionic eyes and more about me being a physics programmer for 3D simulations (that's short for I make physics for video games).

You get used to looking at basic shapes like cubes, spheres, cones and capsules when creating new math from the ground up. I use the negative space as comparison instead of eyeballing the actual objects when viewing collision interaction so I can eyeball hitbox overlap instead of having a log run several hundred lines of debug per second for me to sift through. Just something you get used to. Then you can look at frame timestamps and go through debug during that frame to check for inconsistencies or tolerances.

Of course, I apply the same method here, get it close, then...
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after double checking my super vision with a plumb
I always double check my work
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Old 05-03-2015, 04:36 PM   #7
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When lowering the car you always need a PHB I used plumb bobs then at front end shop have them do the 4 wheel and it will be dead on.
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Old 05-03-2015, 05:10 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teak 14 View Post
When lowering the car you always need a PHB I used plumb bobs then at front end shop have them do the 4 wheel and it will be dead on.
Not sure what you mean. If you mean adjustable pan hard bar, just depends on how far your rear end is out of square....if you are within 1/8" you're golden, and if not it's not the end of the world as it isn't square from the factory. My car was 1/2" bias to the drivers side..........just like most late model Mustangs are.
If you mean all Mustangs no mater what year need a PHB when they are lowered................most early Mustangs (4 link) didn't come with a PHB and my 97 SVT Cobra didn't have one from the factory.
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Old 05-03-2015, 06:54 PM   #9
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Are adj uppers and relo brackets necessary on a strictly street driven car lowered on a very mild setup(koni oranges and steeda sport springs), 1" front and 1.25" rear?

Doing GT500 strut mounts with arrows turned inside to deal with camber in the front. Will do a Adj PHB if needed.
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Old 05-03-2015, 07:17 PM   #10
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No, you don't need them. I have the same set up and it's great.
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Old 05-03-2015, 07:21 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SK GT View Post
Are adj uppers and relo brackets necessary on a strictly street driven car lowered on a very mild setup(koni oranges and steeda sport springs), 1" front and 1.25" rear?

Doing GT500 strut mounts with arrows turned inside to deal with camber in the front. Will do a Adj PHB if needed.

I turned the gt500 mounts in and it gave me just the right amount of camber back to put me in spec.


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Old 05-03-2015, 09:13 PM   #12
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I agree with TommyV.
One thing I will say is that changing out the LCA's sure gave the car a more sure footed feel and even without the relocation brackets it does plant the tires and under hard acceleration brings the front end up more than the stock LCA's.
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Old 05-04-2015, 01:13 AM   #13
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The upper control arm needs to replaced with an adjustable to fix the pinion angle or premature wear of the rear will occur. It's just a question of how long until it occurs.
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Old 05-04-2015, 03:55 AM   #14
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Hi GT Steve!

Welcome to the forum. I thought I'd share some pics of my car before and after lowering. They are Roush springs with 1/2" drop on all 4 sides.

I did nothing else except put in the springs. They are advertised as having a 1/2"drop but I've been told they look more like an inch and they will settle in. Noticeable but subtle. Great ride. Better handling and wife won't spill her coffee. Click on pics for larger image. Sorry its hard to photograph black cars.

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Old 05-04-2015, 01:03 PM   #15
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Olerodder OP was asking about a 13 just saying a Adj PHB is needed if you want to get rear end tracking with front. Only point is you must be on rack why not get it dead on!!
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Old 05-06-2015, 07:28 PM   #16
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Very helpful

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Originally Posted by olerodder View Post
If you only going to drop the car 1" in front and 1.5" in the rear you do not need any of "infamous" caster/camber bolts or caster camber plates.....and the bolts could be dangerous as they are much smaller than the stock bolts................I've helped lower 6 late model Mustangs including my own (which I used Eibach Sportlines) and non of the cars needed an alignment. The Sportlines lower more than the Pro's (1.4" front/ 2+" rear) and even with the Sportlines my alignment was still within Ford Spec.
If you are just looking for a nicer looking car I'd just use all BMR stuff, lowering springs, adjustable panhard bar and non-adjustable lower control arms. You can put in upper control arm but unless it's needed (you just need to check driveline angle) I wouldn't put one in.
One thing that really changes the ride after you drop the car is a good set of struts/shocks like Koni or Bilstien, they are made for lowered cars and seem to soften up the ride a little once it's lowered. The downside to the struts/shocks is they will set you back $600/800, but if you put them in at the time you put your springs in it will save tearing it apart again...................or just use the stock struts/shocks.
You've given me good input & things to consider...thanks a lot!!
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Old 05-06-2015, 08:11 PM   #17
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I went with the roush lowering spring because they give your car an 1 inch drop all around. Didn't want to go lower due to the potholes in nyc. I love the drop you will also have to install an adjustable panhard bar because once the car is lowered it shifts to the left. After the drop also you might want to think about some spacers to bring your wheels out or invest in some rims. Because once the car is lowered the wheels look too tucked in. Well thats in my opinion.

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