Rear upper control arm w/mount OR front and rear sway bars? - Mustang Evolution

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Old 05-09-2015, 01:42 PM   #1
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Rear upper control arm w/mount OR front and rear sway bars?

This is a DD and mountain car almost every weekend. I am not sure what to get next. Any help is appreciated.
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Old 05-09-2015, 02:19 PM   #2
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Control arm with mount gets my vote, the sway bars are already beefy enough. I'd go BMR, good quality. Whiteline has a cheaper combo but uses lighter gauge steel for the bracket. Combine with LCA, say bye to wheel hop!
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Old 05-10-2015, 10:31 AM   #3
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I'm using an adjustable UCA that doesn't use a center adjuster which is inherently weaker and which uses 4130 Chrome Moly instead of DOM which heavier and not quite as strong.
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Old 05-10-2015, 10:40 AM   #4
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JPC uca is one of the best. But it will be noisy

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Old 05-10-2015, 12:40 PM   #5
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UCA w mount would be my vote too. I still have stock sway bars but changed everything else on suspension (springs, mounts, UCA, lca's, pan bar & brace...). That's the stuff that's going to make the most difference in most driving situations. Unless corner carving is your main focus.
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Old 05-10-2015, 01:10 PM   #6
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Like I said its back and forth to work then all mountains from there, so corners are what I am after.
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Old 05-10-2015, 01:11 PM   #7
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I'm using an adjustable UCA that doesn't use a center adjuster which is inherently weaker and which uses 4130 Chrome Moly instead of DOM which heavier and not quite as strong.
Which are you using? I'd like to go with one that adds little to no additional NVH.
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Old 05-10-2015, 01:11 PM   #8
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Rap are you using poly bushings?
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Old 05-10-2015, 02:24 PM   #9
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and is anyone replacing the diff bushing when they replace the upper arm?
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Old 05-10-2015, 02:40 PM   #10
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Rap are you using poly bushings?
No not on my uca.

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Old 05-10-2015, 02:58 PM   #11
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Uca and mount, very satisfying.
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Old 06-06-2015, 09:30 PM   #12
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yeah did the upper rear and mount and it helps in ways I never thought-great addition! Do the diff bushing too though.
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Old 06-06-2015, 10:32 PM   #13
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I'm replacing the bushing when I swap out my fixed BMR UCA for the adjustable one. We'll see how that is.


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Old 06-06-2015, 10:40 PM   #14
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Your GT sway bars are not anything to be sad about. If you read the description of the Steeda sway bars they say that their sway bars improve over your stock one from 85%-10% depending on if it's a v6 or Gt. the V6 sways are where the 85% improvement comes into play. I recently installed a Steeda ultimate sway in the rear and it def tightened it up, but I already have everything else replaced. I mean everything. Arms, brackets, braces, Panhard, springs, shocks. The works. I'm not sure that just a set of sway bars is going to help or make enough difference on their own. But I will say if you go that route make sure you get the adjustable front sway. Everything I've read and past experiences tell me that really helps dial it in to your specific driving style.

All that said, UCA/bracket would be my first choice. It made a huge difference on my car.


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Old 06-06-2015, 10:49 PM   #15
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Which are you using? I'd like to go with one that adds little to no additional NVH.
I'm using the Whiteline with the BMR poly bushing.
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Old 06-06-2015, 10:55 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by 20bmr14 View Post
and is anyone replacing the diff bushing when they replace the upper arm?
Yes, I replaced mine with the BMR poly bushing. It was a royal pain to take out....lucky I had Maximum's tool............and it was still a pain.
I actually bought a brand new bushing from Ford, drilled out the rubber and cleaned it up, then put the BMR bushing in after leaving it in the freezer for a couple of days. I pushed the old bushing out and pushed the new in. When I took the old bushing out the rubber had separated from the metal sleeve and that could have caused the clunking of the two piece drive shaft. I now had a one piece driveline.
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Old 06-06-2015, 11:04 PM   #17
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I've seen a couple of videos of the carrier bushing and how much punishment it takes and suspect mine being torn is a normal occurrence. When decided to change the bushing I actually bought a GT500 bushing but they were B/O for almost 2 months so I decided to go with the BMR. It is designed a lot like the Ford OE but poly...........my next purchase is an adjustable rear sway bar. All I can say is that carving corners is much more fun with the ability to keep the rear tires planted far better than with the stock suspension.
Taking 50mph corners at 120mph with the old suspension was just scary, now it's just a lot of fun.
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Old 06-06-2015, 11:13 PM   #18
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Control arm with mount gets my vote, the sway bars are already beefy enough. I'd go BMR, good quality. Whiteline has a cheaper combo but uses lighter gauge steel for the bracket. Combine with LCA, say bye to wheel hop!
No argument here, just not understanding the comment behind Whiteline having a cheaper combo...........they use Chrome Moly which is stronger than Mild Steel and lighter........because being stronger they can use thinner wall. I've used Chrome Moly roll bars in all of my race cars...........stronger and lighter than mild steel, and their UCA was revised a year or two ago and is the same thickness but uses multiple gussets.
I think they now offer a non-adjustable LCA but still use Chrome Moly.
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Old 06-07-2015, 10:27 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by olerodder View Post
No argument here, just not understanding the comment behind Whiteline having a cheaper combo...........they use Chrome Moly which is stronger than Mild Steel and lighter........because being stronger they can use thinner wall. I've used Chrome Moly roll bars in all of my race cars...........stronger and lighter than mild steel, and their UCA was revised a year or two ago and is the same thickness but uses multiple gussets.
I think they now offer a non-adjustable LCA but still use Chrome Moly.

I was referring to the mount, there's a thread out there where it failed under a launch with basic bolt ons, and the pictures made it seem like it was very light gauge steel. Maybe I'm being a little biased cuz of just the one thread but it scared the bejesus out of me enough to gear me towards BMR. Could have been just a one time fluke, and they might have changed it, but I didn't want to take the chance.
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Old 06-07-2015, 11:43 AM   #20
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If anyone is replacing the diff bushing just buy a 1 1" hole saw. It makes quick work of the old bushing and from there a wire brush bit and you will be done in a 1/2 hour.
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