Adjustable UCA a must for DS? - Mustang Evolution

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Old 05-10-2015, 08:41 PM   #1
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Adjustable UCA a must for DS?

Just as the title states, is there a clear, cut and dry answer to this, or is it really a case by case thing? I haven't checked my pinion angle yet, but I'm lowered 1.5 with all supporting suspension mod with a fixed BMR UCA and mount. Was just wondering if I could get away with a one piece without having to switch over. Any help is greatly appreciated.


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Old 05-10-2015, 08:54 PM   #2
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I believe it is required because the pinion angle will be off with the drop. It isn't as much a problem with the 2 piece because of the flexibility in the stock shaft.

Could you not do the UCAs? Sure. Will it eventually lead to early wear on the back of your drivetrain and suspension? Yes.

If you do the shaft swap, I would suggest doing it right the first time so you dont have to risk messing anything up or cause more labor overhead for yourself.

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Old 05-10-2015, 08:58 PM   #3
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I believe it is required because the pinion angle will be off with the drop. It isn't as much a problem with the 2 piece because of the flexibility in the stock shaft.

Could you not do the UCAs? Sure. Will it eventually lead to early wear on the back of your drivetrain and suspension? Yes.

If you do the shaft swap, I would suggest doing it right the first time so you dont have to risk messing anything up or cause more labor overhead for yourself.

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Everything you said is what I'm assuming. It's not a big deal with switching it out, I just don't wanna waste money. I just wanted some hardened proof, or examples of someone's set up that has it.


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Old 05-10-2015, 09:00 PM   #4
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And like I said, I have the fixed UCA. Anyone want the fixed UCA lol


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Old 05-10-2015, 09:17 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by 2014oxstang View Post
Just as the title states, is there a clear, cut and dry answer to this, or is it really a case by case thing? I haven't checked my pinion angle yet, but I'm lowered 1.5 with all supporting suspension mod with a fixed BMR UCA and mount. Was just wondering if I could get away with a one piece without having to switch over. Any help is greatly appreciated.


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It is my understanding that you can adjust the pinion angle with adjustable LCA's.

EDIT: http://www.cherod.com/mustang/HowTo/LCA%20_adj.htm
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Old 05-10-2015, 09:59 PM   #6
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Adjustable UCA a must for DS?

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Originally Posted by Diehard View Post
It is my understanding that you can adjust the pinion angle with adjustable LCA's.

EDIT: http://www.cherod.com/mustang/HowTo/LCA%20_adj.htm

Hmmmm...interesting.


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Old 05-11-2015, 09:57 AM   #7
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The only proof is get under your Mustang and measure the pinion angle, then you will know if you need an adjustable UCA or not. Not every Mustang is exactly the same, mine was pretty close and I dropped the car with Sportlines.
Also you need to measure the trans angle.
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Old 05-11-2015, 09:59 AM   #8
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The only proof is get under your Mustang and measure the pinion angle, then you will know if you need an adjustable UCA or not. Not every Mustang is exactly the same, mine was pretty close and I dropped the car with Sportlines.

Ok, I'll have to do that. What's optimal when lowered? And I'm on the 1.5 SR's.


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Old 05-11-2015, 10:18 AM   #9
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-2 is optimal with Urethane bushings under all conditions. Adjustable LCAs are more to get your rear aligned properly and move the wheel front to back in the well. UCA for pinion. Can you adjust pinion with LCAs? Sure. Is it half-assed? Yes, especially with a drop. I'm 1.5 and I was positive by 2 degrees without the UCA standing. So I'd expect +4 under a load. After UCA I am perfect. I did mine all at the same time tho.

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Old 05-11-2015, 10:24 AM   #10
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Ok, I'll have to do that. What's optimal when lowered? And I'm on the 1.5 SR's.


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I believe there is a lot of misinformation out on the web about measuring and adjusting pinion angle.
First, the transmissions output shaft angle needs to be measured. Because it is fixed and you really can't change it, the angle will normally be about somewhere in the 2.5 to 3.5 degrees negative. So the transmission U joint angle and the pinion U angle should operate within 1 degree of each other, the pinion should be set as close to 0 or -.5 degrees when the car is at normal ride height. Once power is put to the pinion it will ramp up, anywhere from +2 to +3.5 degrees. This will put the pinion and transmission center line almost parallel to each other or within 1 degree................and that 1 degree is ideal for the Ujoint operating angle.
As for adjusting the pinion angle with the LCA's............this is incorrect except in a 4 link setup, with a 3 link it's always done with the UCA. And if you are still using the stock OE carrier bushing with a BMR/Whiteline....etc. UCA, you really should change the carrier bushing to the BMR bushing (or the GT500 bushing)..............if not you will still get a lot of flex and eventually the bushing will start to break down.
So to answer your question, there is no optimal pinion setting other than what I have mentioned above.
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Old 05-11-2015, 10:40 AM   #11
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Sounds like I need to get my *** under there lol


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Old 05-11-2015, 10:49 AM   #12
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Not to thread jack, but I have a similar situation. fixed lca's and an adjustable uca. I want to lower, is it possible to adjust everything at the UCA? Same thing, would rather not waste money on adj LCA since the fixed ones have 100 miles on them.
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Old 05-11-2015, 10:51 AM   #13
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Not to thread jack, but I have a similar situation. fixed lca's and an adjustable uca. I want to lower, is it possible to adjust everything at the UCA? Same thing, would rather not waste money on adj LCA since the fixed ones have 100 miles on them.

You should be fine man. Fixed LCA's are more forgiving than a fixed UCA when dialing things in it appears. I didn't think I was going to do a one piece DS initially. Found out he car was slow, lol jk, but I need some worthwhile go fast goodies before I pull the trigger on a vortech, and the DS will probably be first on the list


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Old 05-11-2015, 10:54 AM   #14
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You don't need adjustable lower control arms and I would advise against them.
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Old 05-11-2015, 11:34 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by Dub9stang View Post
Not to thread jack, but I have a similar situation. fixed lca's and an adjustable uca. I want to lower, is it possible to adjust everything at the UCA? Same thing, would rather not waste money on adj LCA since the fixed ones have 100 miles on them.
I think both Grabber Blue5.0 and 2014oxstang have answered your question. As I mentioned above, on a 3 link suspension you only need to adjust the UCA to make adjustments in the pinion angle weather you are lowered or not. Keep you non-adjustable LCA's and adjust from the UCA.
If you have not spent any time playing around with 3 link or 4 link suspensions you really don't need to have adjustable LCA's, as you can get into more trouble than you bargained for.
I have installed them on my car to play around with suspension settings...........but I've been playing around with suspensions long before some of you were a gleam in your parents eye.
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Old 05-11-2015, 11:54 AM   #16
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Ok perfect just wanted to make sure, thanks
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Old 05-11-2015, 12:48 PM   #17
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Looks like I'll be buying an adjustable lol. Hopefully I can unload my fixed UCA.


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Old 05-11-2015, 01:10 PM   #18
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Looks like I'll be buying an adjustable lol. Hopefully I can unload my fixed UCA.


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Old 05-11-2015, 01:11 PM   #19
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Lol true story


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Old 05-14-2015, 05:17 PM   #20
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Ok. I'm about to pull the trigger on BMR's adjustable UCA and shaftmasters 3.5" aluminum drive shaft on Monday. Anything I should be aware of besides checking pinion/trans/angle? Any weird quirks, or extra hardware that I should buy beforehand? Or is it a pretty straightforward install?


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Old 05-14-2015, 05:24 PM   #21
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Sounds like you have the BMR UCA mount? I heard with the stock mount you could get some clunking. With the lowering, I am assuming you have the LCA relocation brackets and adj panhard? If so, then you should be good!
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Old 05-14-2015, 05:35 PM   #22
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Sounds like you have the BMR UCA mount? I heard with the stock mount you could get some clunking. With the lowering, I am assuming you have the LCA relocation brackets and adj panhard? If so, then you should be good!

I have the mount, but a fixed UCA. I need to purchase the adjustable version. I have LCA's, relo's, and an adjustable panhard. I just wanted to know if I should know anything before diving into what I'm about to do with the DS and UCA.


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Old 05-14-2015, 06:09 PM   #23
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While you are undoing all of that, you might as well add your DS safety loop in there, it's best to it while you are installing your new DS. I too have the Shaftmasters DS and it is awesome.
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Old 05-14-2015, 06:33 PM   #24
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While you are undoing all of that, you might as well add your DS safety loop in there, it's best to it while you are installing your new DS. I too have the Shaftmasters DS and it is awesome.

Any brand better than another in regards to the safety loop? Yeah I've heard good things about the shaftmasters DS.


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Old 05-14-2015, 06:43 PM   #25
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I have the Shiffler one from LMR. It was $110, well worth it. No need for the expense BMR one.
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Old 05-14-2015, 06:46 PM   #26
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I have the Shiffler one from LMR. It was $110, well worth it. No need for the expense BMR one.

I'll have to look into it for sure


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Old 05-14-2015, 09:56 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by 2014oxstang View Post
I have the mount, but a fixed UCA. I need to purchase the adjustable version. I have LCA's, relo's, and an adjustable panhard. I just wanted to know if I should know anything before diving into what I'm about to do with the DS and UCA.


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Since you asked, if you are replacing the driveshaft get the BMR carrier bushing #EN001 and install that at the same time you install the adjustable UCA, it really makes a difference. Taking this out will mean getting the car as high as possible off the ground so can let the rear axle droop down as far as possible. Use this tool or make your own as it makes it 10 times easier to take the old one out and put a new one back in. Rear Upper Control Arm Bushing Tool
Also, do yourself a favor and buy a new carrier bushing from Ford as they are only $15, modify the new one to accept the BMR EN001 insert...........then pull the old one out with the above tool, or make your own.............and put the new one in. The stock carrier bushing is almost as bad as the stock shifter bushing that holds the tail of the stock shifter in place. Since you will have everything out do it all and be done with it.
Also go to Follow Shaftmasters instructions to the letter and you will have no issues.
Before you start changing things check the two piece driveshaft angles front and rear.................along with the pinion just to see where you are starting...............this will help when you start adjusting.
Good luck.
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Old 05-14-2015, 11:01 PM   #28
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Since you asked, if you are replacing the driveshaft get the BMR carrier bushing #EN001 and install that at the same time you install the adjustable UCA, it really makes a difference. Taking this out will mean getting the car as high as possible off the ground so can let the rear axle droop down as far as possible. Use this tool or make your own as it makes it 10 times easier to take the old one out and put a new one back in. Rear Upper Control Arm Bushing Tool
Also, do yourself a favor and buy a new carrier bushing from Ford as they are only $15, modify the new one to accept the BMR EN001 insert...........then pull the old one out with the above tool, or make your own.............and put the new one in. The stock carrier bushing is almost as bad as the stock shifter bushing that holds the tail of the stock shifter in place. Since you will have everything out do it all and be done with it.
Also go to Follow Shaftmasters instructions to the letter and you will have no issues.
Before you start changing things check the two piece driveshaft angles front and rear.................along with the pinion just to see where you are starting...............this will help when you start adjusting.
Good luck.

Thanks Olerodder for the input. Sounds easy enough right? Lol. Just pointing out this car isn't a dedicated track car as of yet....still you advise to to that carrier bushing?


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Old 05-15-2015, 09:15 AM   #29
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Thanks Olerodder for the input. Sounds easy enough right? Lol. Just pointing out this car isn't a dedicated track car as of yet....still you advise to to that carrier bushing?


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That carrier bushing takes a tremendous amount of twist and torque and not replacing it is like putting urethane bushing on the front sway bar and leaving the rubber bushings on the end links..............it really helps in maintaining pinion angle.
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Old 05-15-2015, 10:14 AM   #30
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That carrier bushing takes a tremendous amount of twist and torque and not replacing it is like putting urethane bushing on the front sway bar and leaving the rubber bushings on the end links..............it really helps in maintaining pinion angle.

Well in that case, I'll definitely add it to the list. Thanks again man, I greatly appreciate it. I'm slowly transitioning this car into a weekend warrior when it's paid off so I'm trying to choose my path correctly the first time. Already made a mistake once with with fixed BMR UCA.


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Old 05-15-2015, 11:33 AM   #31
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Well in that case, I'll definitely add it to the list. Thanks again man, I greatly appreciate it. I'm slowly transitioning this car into a weekend warrior when it's paid off so I'm trying to choose my path correctly the first time. Already made a mistake once with with fixed BMR UCA.


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My guess would be that very few people replace this bushing, one because it is hard to do in the car (unless you have the right tool) and two they just think it's not needed because they have replaced the front UCA bushing and arm................here is a picture of a brand new part #BR3Z-5A638-B which costs a grand total of $17.05 list price...my cost was $13.00. It is the same basic design bushing as all of the rest of the rear suspension bushings and almost exactly like the LCA bushings. For every day driving it's ok, for anything else it's garbage.....you make up your own mind.
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Old 05-15-2015, 11:55 AM   #32
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My guess would be that very few people replace this bushing, one because it is hard to do in the car (unless you have the right tool) and two they just think it's not needed because they have replaced the front UCA bushing and arm................here is a picture of a brand new part #BR3Z-5A638-B which costs a grand total of $17.05 list price...my cost was $13.00. It is the same basic design bushing as all of the rest of the rear suspension bushings and almost exactly like the LCA bushings. For every day driving it's ok, for anything else it's garbage.....you make up your own mind.

Pretty positive I'll be picking up that bushing/tool. If there is, I don't care, but any increased NVH?


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Old 05-15-2015, 12:03 PM   #33
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Pretty positive I'll be picking up that bushing/tool. If there is, I don't care, but any increased NVH?


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Yes, I did pick a little, but then I've got the Whiteline trans mount filler (uncut), Blowfish Street setup, along with all of the rear suspension pieces that are Whiteline...............I picked up the most with the Whiteline trans mount filler. With my 3:73's and the GT500 twin tips you don't notice the NVH at highway speeds but around town in 1st and 2nd gear you do notice it.
I don't have the LCA relocation brackets (and at least at this time I don't need them) and I can still spin the tires (if I had a set of slicks I probably wouldn't) but it hooks a lot harder and goes as straight as an arrow even with the tires spinning. My wife enjoys riding shotgun and really the NVH is a lot less than in my ole drag car.......................so I'm good.
Just make sure you get the BMR bushing as it is a little more compliant than the others..........and does cost almost twice what anyone else sells the bushing for...............it works for me.
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Old 05-15-2015, 12:34 PM   #34
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Yes, I did pick a little, but then I've got the Whiteline trans mount filler (uncut), Blowfish Street setup, along with all of the rear suspension pieces that are Whiteline...............I picked up the most with the Whiteline trans mount filler. With my 3:73's and the GT500 twin tips you don't notice the NVH at highway speeds but around town in 1st and 2nd gear you do notice it.
I don't have the LCA relocation brackets (and at least at this time I don't need them) and I can still spin the tires (if I had a set of slicks I probably wouldn't) but it hooks a lot harder and goes as straight as an arrow even with the tires spinning. My wife enjoys riding shotgun and really the NVH is a lot less than in my ole drag car.......................so I'm good.
Just make sure you get the BMR bushing as it is a little more compliant than the others..........and does cost almost twice what anyone else sells the bushing for...............it works for me.

It is to be expected while tightening things up. I was just wondering.


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Old 05-16-2015, 10:49 PM   #35
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Adjustable UCA a must for DS?

I drooped mine an 1.5" and the pinion angle was not an issue. Everything is operating just fine for the last 26 months. I have the stock DS. I adjusted mine to the stock control arm length.


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