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Old 05-19-2015, 08:23 AM   #1
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Drag racing suspension questions

So I really need some help with my suspension. Before I go to any new tires or power adder, I'd like to see what some suspension upgrades would get me. From what I've been reading, I need adjustable upper control arms, non-adjustable lowers. I don't want to lower my car at all, so would I still need relocation brackets? I've read they help with hooking, but can't tell if it's only needed with springs. Also, can anyone tell me the difference between these 2 LCA's?
TCA019 - Lower Control Arms, Boxed, Non-adj, Poly Bushings | 2005 - 2014 Mustang | Lower Control Arms | BMR Suspension - High Performance Suspension & Chassis

TCA032 - Lower Control Arms, Boxed, Non-adj, Poly Bushings | 2005 - 2014 Mustang | Lower Control Arms | BMR Suspension - High Performance Suspension & Chassis

For the casual drag racing, would the $89 LCA's work ok?

Thanks in advance. I've been trying to do some research, but can't find answers to these specific questions.
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Old 05-19-2015, 08:55 AM   #2
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Also, would this be a good start?

CAP002 - Rear Control Arm Package (Level 2) | 2005 - 2014 Mustang | Control Arm Packages | BMR Suspension - High Performance Suspension & Chassis
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Old 05-19-2015, 08:59 AM   #3
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You didn't state if your car was an auto or manual nor what you've done to the car so far. You need to provide much more information.
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Old 05-19-2015, 09:08 AM   #4
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Valid point.
It's an auto. Really just a tune on it now. It's a 2011 GT convertible. Stock tires and rims. What else would you need to know?
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Old 05-19-2015, 10:29 AM   #5
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Because your car is an auto with a stock converter and near stock power levels I would not touch the suspension yet as it is not needed. Start with a good drag radial and if you can video tape your runs so we can see what it's doing. Then go from there.
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Old 05-19-2015, 10:35 AM   #6
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Ok, great, I do have some runs, but they were taken by my wife and therefore not very good. Let me see what I can post that would be most helpful (and least embarrassing!). My 60 foot times have all been 2.4 or slower. I mostly just spin even feathering the gas. I assumed I'd need some DR's, but a friend suggested that suspension may help before going that route. Let me see about getting a video up.
Thanks for taking the time to help.
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Old 05-19-2015, 11:21 AM   #7
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All the suspension in the world can't cover up for a lack of tire. Start there before you start spending money on things you may not need.
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Old 05-19-2015, 12:38 PM   #8
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Thanks for the help.
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Old 05-19-2015, 03:36 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by special5.0 View Post
So I really need some help with my suspension. Before I go to any new tires or power adder, I'd like to see what some suspension upgrades would get me. From what I've been reading, I need adjustable upper control arms, non-adjustable lowers. I don't want to lower my car at all, so would I still need relocation brackets? I've read they help with hooking, but can't tell if it's only needed with springs. Also, can anyone tell me the difference between these 2 LCA's?
TCA019 - Lower Control Arms, Boxed, Non-adj, Poly Bushings | 2005 - 2014 Mustang | Lower Control Arms | BMR Suspension - High Performance Suspension & Chassis

TCA032 - Lower Control Arms, Boxed, Non-adj, Poly Bushings | 2005 - 2014 Mustang | Lower Control Arms | BMR Suspension - High Performance Suspension & Chassis

For the casual drag racing, would the $89 LCA's work ok?

Thanks in advance. I've been trying to do some research, but can't find answers to these specific questions.
For what's it worth, the more expensive version apparently is a stronger version.
"(TCA032) are manufactured from 1x2-inch steel tubing. This design gives you a strong, yet lightweight control arm, which is also an economical option for improved performance."
"(TCA019) are TIG-welded using heavy-duty 1x2-inch boxed steel tubing. This design gives you a strong control arm that greatly improves performance."
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Old 05-19-2015, 03:39 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Grabber Blue5.0 View Post
All the suspension in the world can't cover up for a lack of tire. Start there before you start spending money on things you may not need.
Yup

Just a pet peeve of mine, there are two lower control arms but only one upper control arm

Hmm, I'm no expert but the stock springs are "soft" and might work well for drag runs. I would think after tires, lower control arms would be next to try to control the axle twist. But, go tires first and see what happens.
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Old 05-19-2015, 04:02 PM   #11
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You can get some major wheel hop on sticky summer only tires with good track prep. I would suggest for the relatively low cost, that some good aftermarket non-adjustable LCA's that are poly-bushed on both ends be in the mix with drag radials. The LCA relocation brackets change the rear geometry to give the car some extra anti-squat which gets the car moving forwards faster. This would be down the line with more power or if you get more serious than messing around at the track with your bros.
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Old 05-19-2015, 05:09 PM   #12
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Thanks for all the replies everyone. I found some DR's locally on Craigslist. Going to look into that first. The other things I noticed, 1. My tires have 46000 miles on them and are pretty worn anyhow. 2. My first time with this car at the track I ran 13.04 which I thought was respectable for a convertible auto on street tires and then 3. My last track visit (a different track) I could NOT avoid the water box ( the guy kept spraying the hose right in front of me) AND it was about 50 degrees. So maybe that helps explain my traction issues! Wet and cold street tires.
Definitely looking at tires first though.

Thanks again everyone!


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Old 05-19-2015, 05:11 PM   #13
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I cant stress enough how nice it is to have some rubber beside the stock Pirelli's
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Old 05-19-2015, 06:52 PM   #14
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46,000 miles on tires on a mustang!
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Old 06-04-2015, 02:40 AM   #15
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I thought I was doing good getting a pair to last 30k


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Old 06-04-2015, 03:29 PM   #16
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I managed to hook up on a 50 degree night and turned a 12.9, but next pass I got into wheel hop. That was last fall, I since got lower control arms and it didn't cure the wheel hop completely.
I since got drag radials and wheel hop is gone but times haven't improved.
Got to work on the driver!
Car is an auto.
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