Front sway bar delete - Mustang Evolution

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Old 05-26-2015, 01:16 PM   #1
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Front sway bar delete

So debating on getting a new radiator support with sway bar delete. I do dd the car and occasionally put on the bug n Littles and hit the track. Never taken my sway bar off this car and wondering how noticeable it is for launching and how bad it hurts the handling. I have the strut tower brace so hopefully that would compensate a little? Only taken it off some ls1 camaros in the past, definitely helped the front end suspension travel but pretty decent adverse effect on handling on that platform. Anyone that's done this mod, can you chime in?

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Old 05-26-2015, 01:19 PM   #2
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It helps alot.
As far as handling I don't take turns fast so can't really help you on that one. And my car is not a DD. But for a $100 mod (bmr) it is a dam good investment.

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Old 05-26-2015, 01:21 PM   #3
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For sure.. Was looking at that or upr. Also adding strange 10 way adjustable struts and just did bmr lca's, adj panhard and adj UCA with mount, so should be a noticeable gain at the next track visit I'd assume? Better be.... Lol

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Old 05-26-2015, 01:25 PM   #4
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Once you get the suspension dialed in, it will be a big difference with everything you listed.
If I can hook on the street, you should have no problem on the track assuming it's prepped correctly.

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Old 05-26-2015, 01:55 PM   #5
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You can just remove the sway bar without getting the radiator support. It helps a lot at the track and on the street I can't even tell it's gone but I also don't take turns fast. I would also ditch the strut tower brace for more weight savings. That thing's useless anyways.
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Old 05-26-2015, 02:25 PM   #6
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I was able to dead hook it on the street with a little prep and at the track on all stock suspension putting down 1.6 60 foots full weight with a glass top. So getting the power to the ground was never an issue but hoping to get into the 1.5 sixty foot full weight on motor is the current goal.

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Old 05-26-2015, 02:27 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grabber Blue5.0 View Post
You can just remove the sway bar without getting the radiator support. It helps a lot at the track and on the street I can't even tell it's gone but I also don't take turns fast. I would also ditch the strut tower brace for more weight savings. That thing's useless anyways.
I have considered this but can't argue with the weight savings of the radiator support for the price. I don't necessarily hit the corners fast (maybe on off ramps a little sometimes) but more concerned if I have to swerve to avoid **** in the road, deer etc. Old f-body cars were like a listing boat on any kinda turn with that thing off.

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Old 05-26-2015, 02:30 PM   #8
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That's dam good.
Once I get to do my 4r70w swap I would be happy with that 60 ft. I plan on leaving on 2 to start with and kick the 100 in after that. Then work up to leaving on 3 and add another 100 on top of that. So we will see how it goes, from a roll queen to a track queen.

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Old 05-26-2015, 02:49 PM   #9
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U running the 6r80 now? My previous 60' was also with a 373 gear, I've recently swapped it in favor of a 331, so have to see if that has any adverse effect on the 60'.

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Old 05-26-2015, 03:03 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UrMaster View Post
U running the 6r80 now? My previous 60' was also with a 373 gear, I've recently swapped it in favor of a 331, so have to see if that has any adverse effect on the 60'.

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No I'm a mt82 car..with 4.10s

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Old 05-26-2015, 05:25 PM   #11
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Both Rapinator and Grabber are certainly correct, taking off the Stabilizer Bar will help loosen up the front suspension and allow better weight transfer. In 35+ of drag racing I only ran a stabilizer bar once........SS/IA when we had to.
When you take the bar off it's going to allow both wheels/tires to act independent of each other in fact some road racers do not use front bars but run heavier springs in front and lighter springs in the rear and do just fine.
My advice would be to take it off and see how it handles. If your suspension is already pretty dialed in you may find it a totally different feeling when driving without a bar, but it may be ok for you. I'd find an empty parking lot and see how it handles..it will help at the strip.
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Old 05-26-2015, 09:27 PM   #12
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The sway bar will only be noticeable when you have to make two or more consecutive turns. Left->right or Left->right->left. You'll feel the front wallow since there will obviously be significantly less roll resistance. It will feel less responsive but not necessarily mean you don't have grip. For straight line or normal DD you won't notice a huge difference, most likely depending on the turn you may feel less pointy on turn in or you'll get oversteer on turn in.

I've only really known people who autoX to remove the front sway but I haven't heard of to many people getting rid of it for DD. Ultimately there is no right or wrong sway bar setup. Sways really are nearly 100% driver style/feel dependent.
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Old 05-27-2015, 10:33 AM   #13
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Ive always been more drag orientated than cornering ability and usually end up with bigs n littles on everything sooner or later so ditching the front sway bar goes hand in hand with the drag tire and wheel set-up. With the front sway bar gone/disconnected the car feels a lot more fun during those little throttle blasts on the street, the front end comes up and adds a lot to the sensation of the acceleration in my opinion.
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Old 05-27-2015, 02:10 PM   #14
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I've run very low 10's w/1.4 60' times both with and without the front sway bar and my experience has been that it made no difference at all. The car hooks up perfect either way. However, with no front sway bar the cornering is adversely affected, so I leave mine on and hooked up all the time. I have full BMR tube K members and rad support so I get the weight savings but I don't destroy my cornering ability to get it. There is more to be gained by proper rear end geometry and good tires than by losing the sway bar. I know others will have a different opinion, but this is what I have experienced.
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Old 05-28-2015, 10:17 AM   #15
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I've run very low 10's w/1.4 60' times both with and without the front sway bar and my experience has been that it made no difference at all. The car hooks up perfect either way. However, with no front sway bar the cornering is adversely affected, so I leave mine on and hooked up all the time. I have full BMR tube K members and rad support so I get the weight savings but I don't destroy my cornering ability to get it. There is more to be gained by proper rear end geometry and good tires than by losing the sway bar. I know others will have a different opinion, but this is what I have experienced.
All very true and also a big investment in the car that some may not be able to make or don't want to make up front. For straight line traction on a budget I urge people to unhook the front sway bar and test it out and see if it works for them. Easiest way to hook up in a straight line on the street or track with minimal rear suspension mods is using 15" wheel, tall sidewall, soft drag radials and letting the front end lift some via unhooking the sway bar. Of course you will compromise cornering. Personally I could care less about cornering ability, but that's just what I like for my car.
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Old 05-28-2015, 10:44 AM   #16
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All very true and also a big investment in the car that some may not be able to make or don't want to make up front. For straight line traction on a budget I urge people to unhook the front sway bar and test it out and see if it works for them. Easiest way to hook up in a straight line on the street or track with minimal rear suspension mods is using 15" wheel, tall sidewall, soft drag radials and letting the front end lift some via unhooking the sway bar. Of course you will compromise cornering. Personally I could care less about cornering ability, but that's just what I like for my car.
What I was trying to point out was that you can get the weight savings without deleting the sway bar. They make light weight rad supports that still accept the front sway bar. Proper geometry is basically setting your anti squat with a set of relocation brackets in the rear and making sure the lower arms are pointed up to the front. I get 100% hook up with M/T 275 pro's and road race springs with 670 rwhp....not exactly big tires or a high buck drag setup.
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Old 05-28-2015, 10:47 AM   #17
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There are some good rear tire shots at the line in here, check it out....

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