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Old 06-09-2015, 12:58 PM   #1
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Rynarok's suspension build.

It's been a while since I've posted here (I still lurk and occasionally comment) so - Hey! My GT has been doing solid and I've finally put enough time and money aside to go ahead with my suspension plans.

The overall goal of my car, Marcie, is daily driver performance, with the ability to not embarrass herself if I ever manage to take her to the track or strip. She is by no means a trailer queen, and does serve as my commuter car here in Chicago when the weather permits.

For those who don't know her she's a '13 5.0 trackpack with some other mild bolt-ons: JLT intake, revised & datalogged bama tune, whiteline trans mount, MGW shifter, blowfish bracket, brake and trans fluid swaps, flowmasters...etc. My sig should be up to date?

Here's a list of what is going to be installed;
- SR springs
- Koni oranges (11's-14's)
- J&M caster plates (no need to use gt500 mounts with this set of plates, verified x3 by AM, this forum, and other forums)
- BMR upper CA with brace, poly bushings
- BMR lower CA with brace, poly bushings
- BMR panhard

The goal is a 1.5" drop, less wheel hop, and easily adjustable caster/camber. I could've gotten away with caster bolts instead of a plate, but I still would've needed the gt500 mounts...total for that would've been 160ish, and for 100 bucks more I felt it was worthwhile going with plates ./shrug.

I plan on using middle hole on the UCA brace, top hole on LCA brace.

I found a local guy who does aftermarket suspension alignments (shops here are very phobic when it comes to aftermarket work) so that'll set me back another $125. All told, this list plus self install and alignment will cost me ~$1,600.

The next thing for the suspension will be tires...and that's going to be next summer. Leguna Secas with some slightly wider mickey thompsons.

Thoughts? Opinions? I might do a write-up of the install, depends on how long it's taking and if I remember to charge the camera.
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Marcie; Black 2013 GT. MT82, .373, track + brembo, JLT CF CAI, Boss Manifold, MGW StS, Blowfish Trans Bracket & Driveshaft Loop, Whiteline trans bushing, RP motor & tranny oils, Flowmaster Outlaws, BMR UCA w/ mount, LCA w/ relo brackets, panhard, SR springs, KONI oranges, J&M CC plates, staggered leguna secas, MT street comps
***A good driver is the best method to get more performance out of any car. ***
AXLEBACKS THREADS =
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Old 06-14-2015, 09:41 PM   #2
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So, I got it all installed over the course of an evening and half of the next day. Here's a few thoughts:

BMR's stuff makes the stock components look pretty pathetic in comparison. Good lord.

That damn upper UCA mount bolt under the seat needs torqued to 240+ ft/lbs.

Probably best, in hindsight, to just pull the damn panhard out before doing anything else under the rear end. Stupid clearance issues.

The rear axle is only really supported by the lower control arms and the dampers. Consider that before you decide to remove ALL of the stock components at once...

Replacing the rear springs is about the easiest part of the job. Literally takes seconds once the entire rear suspension is apart.

Buy and learn how to use a grease gun. Preferably beforehand. I had a messy lesson.

Funny how the instructions tell you to not use impact guns on the exact bolts that you would NEED an impact gun for. FML.

^in reference to that, how do you go about torquing the top strut nuts without an impact gun anyway.

You will need huge *** wrenches. I will likely never use my new 1 1/2" crescent wrench ever again.

Huge sockets too. 27mm? fml.

And a hammer. or mallet. and a cheater bar.

J&M's caster/camber plates are awesome, especially with the right years of KONI struts and SR springs. Fits together better than it really had any right to. Oh and you can build the new spring/strut/mount without needing any parts off of the original assembly. Neat.

Finally: now that the suspension is dialed in to place as much force onto the tires as it can without absorbing energy (ie wheelhop) it's obvious what the "Zero" in "PZero" means - as in, zero traction. It was sacry when it was stock. Now it is just plain bad. New tires are next.
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Marcie; Black 2013 GT. MT82, .373, track + brembo, JLT CF CAI, Boss Manifold, MGW StS, Blowfish Trans Bracket & Driveshaft Loop, Whiteline trans bushing, RP motor & tranny oils, Flowmaster Outlaws, BMR UCA w/ mount, LCA w/ relo brackets, panhard, SR springs, KONI oranges, J&M CC plates, staggered leguna secas, MT street comps
***A good driver is the best method to get more performance out of any car. ***
AXLEBACKS THREADS =
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Old 06-14-2015, 11:47 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rynarok View Post
So, I got it all installed over the course of an evening and half of the next day. Here's a few thoughts:

BMR's stuff makes the stock components look pretty pathetic in comparison. Good lord.

That damn upper UCA mount bolt under the seat needs torqued to 240+ ft/lbs.

Probably best, in hindsight, to just pull the damn panhard out before doing anything else under the rear end. Stupid clearance issues.

The rear axle is only really supported by the lower control arms and the dampers. Consider that before you decide to remove ALL of the stock components at once...

Replacing the rear springs is about the easiest part of the job. Literally takes seconds once the entire rear suspension is apart.

Buy and learn how to use a grease gun. Preferably beforehand. I had a messy lesson.

Funny how the instructions tell you to not use impact guns on the exact bolts that you would NEED an impact gun for. FML.

^in reference to that, how do you go about torquing the top strut nuts without an impact gun anyway.

You will need huge *** wrenches. I will likely never use my new 1 1/2" crescent wrench ever again.

Huge sockets too. 27mm? fml.

And a hammer. or mallet. and a cheater bar.

J&M's caster/camber plates are awesome, especially with the right years of KONI struts and SR springs. Fits together better than it really had any right to. Oh and you can build the new spring/strut/mount without needing any parts off of the original assembly. Neat.

Finally: now that the suspension is dialed in to place as much force onto the tires as it can without absorbing energy (ie wheelhop) it's obvious what the "Zero" in "PZero" means - as in, zero traction. It was sacry when it was stock. Now it is just plain bad. New tires are next.
Just a question; where did you get a torque setting of 240lbft for the bolt under the seat. In the Ford Shop manual it says 130lbft. I've never seen anything on a car that goes beyond 150lbft of torque.
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Old 06-15-2015, 06:50 AM   #4
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In BMR's instructions. The top mounting bolt on the UCA bracket gets tightened to 240lbft. The bolt securing the UCA to that new mount is 200...

Hell, even both bolts that secure the front struts to the spindle get 160lb ft each, and that's direct from the chilton's.

I didn't even know where to find a damn torque wrench that went that far. Good thing I've been powerlifting for a few years or that top bolt wouldn't have gotten done.
__________________
Marcie; Black 2013 GT. MT82, .373, track + brembo, JLT CF CAI, Boss Manifold, MGW StS, Blowfish Trans Bracket & Driveshaft Loop, Whiteline trans bushing, RP motor & tranny oils, Flowmaster Outlaws, BMR UCA w/ mount, LCA w/ relo brackets, panhard, SR springs, KONI oranges, J&M CC plates, staggered leguna secas, MT street comps
***A good driver is the best method to get more performance out of any car. ***
AXLEBACKS THREADS =
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Old 06-15-2015, 10:01 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rynarok View Post
In BMR's instructions. The top mounting bolt on the UCA bracket gets tightened to 240lbft. The bolt securing the UCA to that new mount is 200...

Hell, even both bolts that secure the front struts to the spindle get 160lb ft each, and that's direct from the chilton's.

I didn't even know where to find a damn torque wrench that went that far. Good thing I've been powerlifting for a few years or that top bolt wouldn't have gotten done.
Ok, BMR must be different than the factory bolts. When I installed my UCA I went by the Ford specs to 130lbft using OE bolts and have driven about 1000 miles with no issue.
I had forgotten about the 166lbft for the spindle bolts when I lowered the Mustang last year.
If you want I could loan you my 250lbft torque wrench, just had it re-cert'd.
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