Broken bolt on UCA mount (rear/passenger bolt). ... - Mustang Evolution

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Old 06-21-2015, 11:40 PM   #1
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Broken bolt on UCA mount (rear/passenger bolt). ...

Hey guys, I finished my suspension upgrade with a BMR UCA this weekend. The good news, it's in. The bad, my torque wrench didn't indicate and my frustration from earlier in the day was clouding my mind which led to me just pushing and pushing until pop!

A few questions, how hard to extract the half left in? Should I take to a shop or try myself? Cost to expect? Does that bolt really effect function?

As a side note, my pinion angle is about -1* but i have next to no noise/vibration. Go or no go? Is NVH a good enough indicator or do i need to hit -2*?

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Old 06-21-2015, 11:48 PM   #2
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Jesus man. Lmao were you green when you were under there? Your going to want to figure something out with that. I have a feeling over time the bracket will get fatigued and the other two areas will be stressed and possibly crack or bend.

As for getting it out? Man that's not going to be easy. It's hard as hell to get at, and that bolt is no joke. Drilling it and using an extractor is prob the best way but that's still going to suck.


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Old 06-22-2015, 12:55 AM   #3
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Drill it out and retap the threads is what I would try. Or just take it somewhere and have them do it.


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Old 06-22-2015, 08:12 AM   #4
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I was thinking that but wasn't sure how much of a pita that'd be versus an extraction kit.

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Old 06-22-2015, 08:15 AM   #5
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And yeah, I was so pissed off (turning gem at least) at some other stuff i shouldn't have been working on my car... my judgement was clouded.

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Old 06-22-2015, 08:49 AM   #6
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have you tried to get it with a pin punch (nail) and hammer? Ya might get lucky.....props for admitting.
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Old 06-22-2015, 12:26 PM   #7
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Trying to remember - doesn't the bolt go all the way through the floorpan? maybe he can access the end of it through the back seat area? It's going to be a bit*h, regardless.
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Old 06-22-2015, 12:32 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by slimguns View Post
Hey guys, I finished my suspension upgrade with a BMR UCA this weekend. The good news, it's in. The bad, my torque wrench didn't indicate and my frustration from earlier in the day was clouding my mind which led to me just pushing and pushing until pop!

A few questions, how hard to extract the half left in? It's not going to be easy but if you are planning to try and get it out with the UCA still in place.......then I'd take it somewhere and have it done although I'd guess it's at least $200 or more. If you take the UCA off and really soak the remaining part of the bolt with penetrating oil, then get an easy-out you may be able to get it out. That bolt is going to be in there since you torqued it past the shear point of the metal. If you do drill it out (which is going to take time) get a "Thread Chaser", not a tap, and chase the threads as you don't want to be cutting new threads. Should I take to a shop or try myself? Cost to expect? Does that bolt really effect function? If you are asking can you drive the car without this bolt.........the answer is H?$# no! You will twist the bracket and really screw something up.

As a side note, my pinion angle is about -1* but i have next to no noise/vibration. Go or no go? Is NVH a good enough indicator or do i need to hit -2*? I am assuming that you still have the two piece driveline and you measured the -1 degree on the pinion flange..........what was the angle of the rear section of the driveshaft? If you subtracted the shaft angle from the pinion angle and came up with -1 degree and have no vibration at any speed then I'd leave it and call it good.
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Old 06-22-2015, 05:43 PM   #9
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Trying to remember - doesn't the bolt go all the way through the floorpan? maybe he can access the end of it through the back seat area? It's going to be a bit*h, regardless.
That was my thought too! But for Gods sake do not just whack it with a hammer and punch hard to try to drive it out!
If that bolt hole comes up through the rear seat pan, memory seems to think it does, it would be much easier to tap the center with a nail or punch to get a good start with a small drill bit. Hell, since the flutes on the drill bit are right handed and you'd be turning it clockwise from the end of the bolt, you'd essentially be un-threading the bolt if the drill bit caught in the metal. Certainly more comfortable working in the back seat than under the car imo.
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Old 06-22-2015, 05:48 PM   #10
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That was my thought too! But for Gods sake do not just whack it with a hammer and punch hard to try to drive it out!

If that bolt hole comes up through the rear seat pan, memory seems to think it does, it would be much easier to tap the center with a nail or punch to get a good start with a small drill bit. Hell, since the flutes on the drill bit are right handed and you'd be turning it clockwise from the end of the bolt, you'd essentially be un-threading the bolt if the drill bit caught in the metal. Certainly more comfortable working in the back seat than under the car imo.

Not possible guys

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Old 06-22-2015, 07:26 PM   #11
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That was my thought too! But for Gods sake do not just whack it with a hammer and punch hard to try to drive it out!
If that bolt hole comes up through the rear seat pan, memory seems to think it does, it would be much easier to tap the center with a nail or punch to get a good start with a small drill bit. Hell, since the flutes on the drill bit are right handed and you'd be turning it clockwise from the end of the bolt, you'd essentially be un-threading the bolt if the drill bit caught in the metal. Certainly more comfortable working in the back seat than under the car imo.
There are left handed drill bits for this purpose. He can drill into it from the side in went in on and that almost always works. Snap on also has a spline drive bolt extractor set. Best way in the world.
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Old 06-23-2015, 08:30 AM   #12
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There are left handed drill bits for this purpose. He can drill into it from the side in went in on and that almost always works. Snap on also has a spline drive bolt extractor set. Best way in the world.
Right, except reaching around the driveshaft and manipulating tools around the diff could be a pita. Looks like it's gotta be since the bolt hole doesn't come through into the cabin anyway.
Good luck op!
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Old 06-23-2015, 09:06 AM   #13
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I wasn't suggesting trying to drive it out. Sometimes with a pointed punch/hammer you can unscrew it.
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Old 06-23-2015, 04:05 PM   #14
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I wasn't suggesting trying to drive it out. Sometimes with a pointed punch/hammer you can unscrew it.
Haha! Didn't think so but I didn't want my my first impression to turn into someone else's experiment/failure!
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Old 06-24-2015, 06:27 AM   #15
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I'm pretty sure the bolt doesn't come through, but did you check the trunk just to be sure? I would look at mine but I'm not close by.

My recommendation if you know how to drill straight and drill it out and tap it. If you can get it out without up sizing, that would be ideal I have had titanium bushings installed in a hole on the bottom of a bomber wing that I need to remove that I can drill out to about .007" smaller than the bushing o.d. that I can get it to come out with a scribe. It may be a bit more challenging with something that is threaded. Your biggest problem is room.
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Old 06-24-2015, 10:09 AM   #16
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Just one last comment.............if you are using the factory bracket and the BMR UCA you should really replace the OE UCA mount with the BMR mount. Some people have used the OE mount with the BMR control arm and had issues..................just trying to lessen you problems as once you put it in you don't want to have to take it out again.
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