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Old 07-02-2015, 06:24 PM   #1
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Bad O2 sensor?

So had my car in the shop today to swap out a circle D converter that rattled for a new one. Went to leave and my engine light was on for bank 1 sensor 1 (drivers side upstream) heater circuit. I reset the code and it has not come back on in 25 miles so far, but I did test data logging and for afr bank 2 I get readings, bank 1 just stays at 0. Something isn't right with that. Any suggestions?

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Old 07-02-2015, 06:33 PM   #2
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Sometimes you have to watch, the ecu has a keep alive memory function. When it detects a bad 02 it will program it out even if you reset it will go back to the keep alive mode.

Try disconnecting the battery cable for 10 minutes or so that will wipe everything

if you want to know more about this google this dude "scannerdanner" he does a case study on Ford 02 sensor and explains it really well

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Old 07-02-2015, 07:14 PM   #3
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So it's probably bad then if I'm not getting a bank 1 sensor 1 afr reading and just not throwing the code yet?

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Old 07-02-2015, 07:15 PM   #4
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The wide bands go out, nothing unusual on these cars. I have replaced mine twice. You running e85?

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Old 07-02-2015, 08:52 PM   #5
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The wide bands go out, nothing unusual on these cars. I have replaced mine twice. You running e85?

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No, debating on it but not yet. It's black though. Denso the way to go for replacement? Just kinda surprised if it's out at only 40k...

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Old 07-02-2015, 08:54 PM   #6
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Can I still drive it or is it gonna **** **** up or do I gotta be nice to it. Looks like I can't get a replacement until next week. Nobody has in Stock. I'm supposed to get paid from some Internet Honda boy with a "Honda civic that's fast" tonight. Lol

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Old 07-03-2015, 09:46 AM   #7
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Does anyone know who the oem manufacturer is for the O2 sensors?ive been told Motorcraft by Ford, denso by Autozone and bosch or ngk by Napa... Motorcraft doesn't manufacture o2 sensors last I knew...

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Old 07-03-2015, 09:56 AM   #8
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I replaced mine with the Ntk from AM it's about $160.

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Old 07-03-2015, 09:59 AM   #9
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Your fine to drive. As long as your tune was good to begin with. It may idle odd though

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Old 07-03-2015, 11:04 AM   #10
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You can get OEM ones from Tasca Ford for $150ish.
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Old 07-03-2015, 11:18 AM   #11
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You can also get an OEM one from RockAuto for around $117 or so.
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Old 07-03-2015, 11:57 AM   #12
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If your on pump gas go with the OEM ones. The NTK ones from AM hold up better to e85 from what I have experienced

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Old 07-03-2015, 12:02 PM   #13
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Went ahead and got one from local dealer for 150. Installed and same thing. No bank 1 afr reading. Multiple cylinder misfire code also present now along with same heater circuit code. Sensor is plugged in good. This all started when I picked it up from the shop for the replacement converter yesterday. I follow the wiring the sensor plugs into and it goes up above the shift linkage and that's all I can see. Shop is saying they just disconnect the sensor from where it's plugged in and remove it from the collector to slide back and drop the trans down. What could be the issue here? I do have long tubes but that shouldn't matter... Is the wire the sensor plugs into a extension? The long tubes were on the car when I purchased it so I wouldn't know.

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Old 07-03-2015, 12:04 PM   #14
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The multiple miss fire could be triggered do to needing a crankshaft sensor relearn. Not a 100% sure if you have to do this with a auto when removing the transmission or not. ( you do on a manual )

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Old 07-03-2015, 12:24 PM   #15
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The first time I had the converter swap I had none of these issues. I did do a Kam reset and no difference. Like I said afr bank 1 is getting no reading. That would imply it's not getting a reading from the front o2 correct?

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Old 07-03-2015, 12:59 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rapinator126 View Post
The multiple miss fire could be triggered do to needing a crankshaft sensor relearn. Not a 100% sure if you have to do this with a auto when removing the transmission or not. ( you do on a manual )

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How do you perform a crankshaft re-learn? Don't hurt to try. Or would a Kam reset effectively do the same thing?

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Old 07-03-2015, 01:25 PM   #17
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Crank relearn not necessary on the auto. Sounds like they may have done something to the actuall wiring.
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Old 07-03-2015, 01:35 PM   #18
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Yeah I thought bank 1 was the drivers side turns out its the passenger side. Put old sensor back in drivers side new one in passenger side and disconnected battery for half hour. Fired it up and same thing still. What wiring should I look at?

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Old 07-03-2015, 01:38 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Grabber Blue5.0 View Post
Crank relearn not necessary on the auto. Sounds like they may have done something to the actuall wiring.
There you go. Wasn't sure if you had to on a auto. I knew you would clear that up though

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Old 07-03-2015, 01:52 PM   #20
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Bank 1 is passenger side. Before I go any further what was the actual code?
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Old 07-03-2015, 02:48 PM   #21
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Found the passenger side extension where it plugs into the stock harness to be plugged in but not quite all the way clipped in. Secured it and it's running perfect now.

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Old 07-03-2015, 03:14 PM   #22
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You're not running the o2 extensions are you?
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Old 07-04-2015, 01:31 PM   #23
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You're not running the o2 extensions are you?
Yes it has extensions.

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Old 07-04-2015, 01:58 PM   #24
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You better get them off before it costs you a motor.
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Old 07-05-2015, 11:51 AM   #25
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You better get them off before it costs you a motor.
Why do you say that? O2 wore won't reach the harness with long tubes and the car was tuned with them on there.

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Old 07-05-2015, 12:08 PM   #26
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The harness reaches just fine if you release it at the top of the transmission. They have already caused blown motors. My advice is get them off now.
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Old 07-05-2015, 02:44 PM   #27
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The harness reaches just fine if you release it at the top of the transmission. They have already caused blown motors. My advice is get them off now.
Never heard of such a problem except when people try to make their own and start playing with resistors and such in the wiring. Mine are just the standard I believe 6" extensions that came with my dynatech headers. I've always run them on any vehicle I've ever had long tubes on and never had an issue. Where have you seen a blown motor caused by a extension that wasn't hand made in someone's garage?

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Old 07-05-2015, 03:36 PM   #28
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Well the first was Terry Reeves owner of Beefcake Racing. Do a search and you'll get lots of info. But to say the stock harness doesn't reach is not true.
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Old 07-05-2015, 04:49 PM   #29
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Well the first was Terry Reeves owner of Beefcake Racing. Do a search and you'll get lots of info. But to say the stock harness doesn't reach is not true.
What do you mean by releasing the stock harness? Sounds like the transmission would need to be dropped? I can tell you from looking at least on the auto your not accessing anything on top of the transmission with it in the car.... Unless I'm missing something?

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Old 07-05-2015, 05:02 PM   #30
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The transmission doesn't need to be dropped. Just reach up and unclip the stock harness in three places. It will release down.
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Old 07-05-2015, 07:01 PM   #31
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The transmission doesn't need to be dropped. Just reach up and unclip the stock harness in three places. It will release down.
Does this change anything in the reading? Why did other have failures, was it due to failing extensions?

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Old 07-06-2015, 09:53 AM   #32
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Does this change anything in the reading? Why did other have failures, was it due to failing extensions?

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Yes it changes the readings and yes all the others failures came from the extensions wether it be from ARH, Kooks, Stainless Works etc etc.
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Old 07-06-2015, 11:17 AM   #33
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Yes it changes the readings and yes all the others failures came from the extensions wether it be from ARH, Kooks, Stainless Works etc etc.
Would my tune need to be modified if I remove them then?

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Old 07-06-2015, 12:28 PM   #34
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Would my tune need to be modified if I remove them then?

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Probably not but if you've sent a data log to your tuner before I would do it again with them removed. But more than likely the tune is fine.
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Old 07-06-2015, 04:03 PM   #35
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as said, get the extensions out asap! they are bad, bad, bad! I had to unbolt my trans crossmember and allow it to drop a few inches to get the necessary clearance to release the harness from the top of trans when I installed my LT's

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