Best way to remove 200lbs? - Mustang Evolution

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Old 07-08-2015, 01:46 PM   #1
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Best way to remove 200lbs?

Have a 11 gt premium with glass roof. I want to drop at least 200-300 lbs from the car. So far I have sve drag wheels, removed the spare tire and Jack, I plan to get a tubular radiator support and delete the sway bar. What else is some things I can do to drop that weight without ghettoing out my car? I do dd the car so things like removing bumper crash bars, rear seats and ac etc are not options.

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Old 07-08-2015, 01:51 PM   #2
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That's a lot to drop without getting drastic
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Old 07-08-2015, 01:52 PM   #3
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If you have money to spend, lighter parts could be another way to go. BMR Front lower control a-arms will shave 10+ lbs over stock ones. This is just 1 example. There a many other aftermarket parts that are lighter then stock. Eventually it will add up.

Have you swapped mufflers yet? Alot of aftermarket ones are lighter then the stock boat anchors.

Aluminum driveshaft will shave 10 lbs or so over the stock one. Maybe a bit more.

Not much weight but have you deleted the sound tube on the intake?

Look for Aluminum parts to replace some of the steel parts on the car. This will help. I know the shorty headers I added were slightly lighter then the stock manifolds.

I wouldn't say these mods would be "ghettoing" out the car. Probably make it more efficient to do what you need it to do.
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Old 07-08-2015, 01:55 PM   #4
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Battery, axle weights, exhaust, ... pretty much not going to lose 200-300 pounds without qhettoing it out. I.E. removing a/c, interior panels, seats, carpet, sound deadening, stereo, etc. I would say 100-125 pounds realistically doable. I bet this has never been discussed before...
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Old 07-08-2015, 01:58 PM   #5
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Best way to remove 200lbs?

How's your waist size? You can drop some weight and keep your car from being ghettoed out.


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Old 07-08-2015, 02:00 PM   #6
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How's your waste size? You can drop some weight and keep your car from being ghettoed out.


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Oh man....I almost died...

The irony of your post to this guy vs. his picture is also what makes this funny.
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Old 07-08-2015, 03:09 PM   #7
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Best way to remove 200lbs?

I mean it's true. I lost over 100 pounds about 1.5 years ago. So my quarter mile got a tenth faster

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Old 07-08-2015, 03:17 PM   #8
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Jesus I wish I could gain a 100lbs in a year.

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Old 07-08-2015, 03:19 PM   #9
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LOL I am not a fatty no worries there. I am 6'3 210. Mods now are long tubes, or/x pipe and kooks axle back, bmr lca, uca, panhard, circle d 5c boss intake with bbk 85mm tb and jlt CAI tuned by AED. Well maybe I could lose 20lbs and drop 80 from the car then hahaha in all seriousness though I suppose if I could get another hundred out of it on top of what I already have that would be good. Basically I want to drop another 3 tenths ET. Porting my Boss IM and possible E85 are on the table along with the sway bar delete. Also been debating on 3.90 gears to get the 60" lowered. Have 331 now but the car keft better with 373's I had prior to 331's.
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Old 07-08-2015, 03:39 PM   #10
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200lbs is a very tall order without getting crazy.

Tubular K member
Tubular K arms
AC delete
Smaller battery
Rear seat delete
Aluminum driveshaft
Fixed back race seats
Pull the carpet and take out the various padding around the car (not the sound deadening).

Every little bit counts.... I had my Harness bar and 5 point harnesses installed for a while with my factory seat belts still in the car. I took the factory belts out since they aren't used anymore, i cut 14lbs from those plus a little bit of padding i took out from behind the panels. That was the same time i cut about 46lbs from my fixed back race seats. 60lbs total that day just from seats, belts, and padding. Numbers may be different for you though since mine is a different year. Same concept applies though.
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Old 07-08-2015, 06:10 PM   #11
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remove 12 gallons from a full tank of gas = -72 lbs(but you knew that)
reducing 25 lbs of rotating mass could reduce up to an equivalent of about 100 lbs. (so some people will say.)
Replace that glass roof with an Aluminum roof = minus about 200 lbs.
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Old 07-08-2015, 06:42 PM   #12
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You have left me with no choice.

Replace the seats with buckets. Swap the intake with pantyhose and a rubber band. Swap metal doors with pieces of wood. Swap the serpentine belt with a shoe string.

Those should get you going....
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Old 07-08-2015, 07:07 PM   #13
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Cyclone swap?
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Old 07-08-2015, 09:12 PM   #14
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Cyclone swap?
He can take my 3.8. I'll be more than happy to do an even trade for a 5.0

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Old 07-08-2015, 09:38 PM   #15
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You can always do a motor swap. FORD powered by VTEC.

Seriously though, what are your future plans for the car? If you're trying to go a lot faster without doing any suspension work or anything to the motor then you might want to start there then worry about weight later.
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Old 07-08-2015, 11:32 PM   #16
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200/300lbs is a huge amount and like everyone else has mentioned........without making it a dedicated race car I just don't see how you can do it............maybe 100lbs at most. Using a tubular front crossmember in most cases will not allow hardly any weight loss......I've looked into Maximum Motorsports and BMR...if you want to use tubular A arms, coilovers and some lightweight disc's you could possibly loose 100/125lbs...............the cost is close to $4000 for a complete front end and then it really doesn't remain a DD.
Personally, I'd work on the motor/trans/suspension to pick up 3/10ths versus trying to shed that much weight. How about doing some head work and putting Boss 302 cams in the car. I believe either way you look at this it's not going to be cheap unless you can and will do all of the work yourself............IMHO
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Old 07-09-2015, 12:22 AM   #17
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^exactly!!! If your gonna spend a lot of money to reduce weight to get fast, you might as well spend it on parts to make it fast. When the day comes that you no longer want to DD it, then you can gut it all out.
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Old 07-09-2015, 12:59 AM   #18
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What's that joke?
"I lost 200 pounds of ugly fat...
I got a divorce."

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Old 07-09-2015, 01:03 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by Renuco612 View Post
You can always do a motor swap. FORD powered by VTEC.

Seriously though, what are your future plans for the car? If you're trying to go a lot faster without doing any suspension work or anything to the motor then you might want to start there then worry about weight later.
Didn't day anything about not doing any suspension. I already have quite a bit if suspension done.

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Old 07-09-2015, 01:07 AM   #20
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remove 12 gallons from a full tank of gas = -72 lbs(but you knew that)
reducing 25 lbs of rotating mass could reduce up to an equivalent of about 100 lbs. (so some people will say.)
Replace that glass roof with an Aluminum roof = minus about 200 lbs.

Don't think change the glass roof to aluminium is feasible...




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200/300lbs is a huge amount and like everyone else has mentioned........without making it a dedicated race car I just don't see how you can do it............maybe 100lbs at most. Using a tubular front crossmember in most cases will not allow hardly any weight loss......I've looked into Maximum Motorsports and BMR...if you want to use tubular A arms, coilovers and some lightweight disc's you could possibly loose 100/125lbs...............the cost is close to $4000 for a complete front end and then it really doesn't remain a DD.
Personally, I'd work on the motor/trans/suspension to pick up 3/10ths versus trying to shed that much weight. How about doing some head work and putting Boss 302 cams in the car. I believe either way you look at this it's not going to be cheap unless you can and will do all of the work yourself............IMHO

My goal is to get into the 11,40 range na on a completely stock motor. Cams are a waste of money dollars per hp on these motors and there is no trans work that would be beneficial to a 6r80 that I am aware of.. Once I can reach my goals na I plan to go FI. I may port my boss and go to e85. I'd assume that should be worth 2 tenths at a minimum...




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^exactly!!! If your gonna spend a lot of money to reduce weight to get fast, you might as well spend it on parts to make it fast. When the day comes that you no longer want to DD it, then you can gut it all out.
All the cars I see running the high 10 and low 11's n/a have similar setups to what I have but just weigh less. About 3550 seems to be the round about area. They're getting 2-300 somewhere. None of them "look" gutted or anything.

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Old 07-09-2015, 04:40 AM   #21
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Don't think change the glass roof to aluminium is feasible...







My goal is to get into the 11,40 range na on a completely stock motor. Cams are a waste of money dollars per hp on these motors and there is no trans work that would be beneficial to a 6r80 that I am aware of.. Once I can reach my goals na I plan to go FI. I may port my boss and go to e85. I'd assume that should be worth 2 tenths at a minimum...






All the cars I see running the high 10 and low 11's n/a have similar setups to what I have but just weigh less. About 3550 seems to be the round about area. They're getting 2-300 somewhere. None of them "look" gutted or anything.

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Why don't you ask those guys what they did to lose the weight?


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Old 07-09-2015, 09:37 AM   #22
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Not sure where you are at in the quarter with trap speed and what your 60' times are................GrabberBlue5.0l's car was around 11.2 on a stock motor. I'm not sure what his car weighed though.
Also, I assume you have a non-OE converter................if not that would come before any weight reduction.
As for the mod's to the 6r80..............not as many as for a Powerglide.........more clutches, lubrication mod's, valve body mod's and general blue printing seem to be what guys with HP/TQ are doing to break into the 9's.
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Old 07-09-2015, 11:06 AM   #23
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How's your waist size?
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Originally Posted by Gravydog View Post
"I lost 200 pounds of ugly fat...
I got a divorce."
Basically, what I was going to say.... leave your girlfriend at home! ;P

---------------------------------------------------------

Mod - weight savings
Tubular K member - 18
Tubular K arms - 10
Smaller battery - 15+ (stock about 35 lbs, about 20 lbs for DD or 6 lbs for track only use)
Aluminum driveshaft - 20
lightweight wheels - 36 (4 x 9)
2-piece rotors - 14 (4 x 3.5)

Tubular radiator support - 10
aluminum LCA's - 6
AB exhaust - 6
no spare tire - 35
remove sound tube - 1

Rear seat delete - 30
front sway bar - 12

----------------------
TOTAL = 213 lbs

The RED ones I've already done. Red & bold = rotational mass reduction. Last 2 I wouldn't really do for my car.
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Old 07-09-2015, 11:14 AM   #24
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Not sure what mods you already have but a convertor has gotten stock weight cars into the 11.5 range. If you have a auto.
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Old 07-09-2015, 11:21 AM   #25
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LOL I am not a fatty no worries there. I am 6'3 210. Mods now are long tubes, or/x pipe and kooks axle back, bmr lca, uca, panhard, Circle D 5c boss intake with bbk 85mm tb and jlt CAI tuned by AED




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Old 07-09-2015, 11:22 AM   #26
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Mods are listed. Already have suspension except the k-member and a-arms. Have a 5c converter like mentioned and drag wheels. Best so far was 11.6.
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Old 07-09-2015, 11:29 AM   #27
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Basically, what I was going to say.... leave your girlfriend at home! ;P

---------------------------------------------------------

Mod - weight savings
Tubular K member - 18
Tubular K arms - 10
Smaller battery - 15+ (stock about 35 lbs, about 20 lbs for DD or 6 lbs for track only use)
Tubular radiator support - 10
Aluminum driveshaft - 20
2-piece rotors - 14 (4 x 3.5)
aluminum LCA's - 6
lightweight wheels - 36 (4 x 9)
AB exhaust - 6
no spare tire - 35
remove sound tube - 1

Rear seat delete - 30
front sway bar - 12

----------------------
TOTAL = 213 lbs

The RED ones I've already done. Last 2 I wouldn't really do for my car.

Have quite a bit of that but will look into the k-member I think. Thought the aluminum DS was only like 10? Then I always read ppl dont gain anything with it on the auto cars..
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Old 07-09-2015, 02:41 PM   #28
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Not much else you can do without stripping it. Start looking into some Carbon Fiber.
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Old 07-09-2015, 03:14 PM   #29
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Have quite a bit of that but will look into the k-member I think. Thought the aluminum DS was only like 10? Then I always read ppl dont gain anything with it on the auto cars..
Nope Aluminum DS is absolutely 20 lbs. Look at the AM videos, they even show them weighing 2 side by side. Its like 40 for stock, 20 for Alum.

I got a Shaftmasters DS and I could feel a nice seat of pants improvement in responsiveness. Its supposed to be worth .2 seconds in 1/4 mile, but regardless its a 20 lb weight savings. And it does in my opinion make the car feel faster, b/c of the responsiveness. Just feels like the engine can rev easier.
Ford Mustang Aluminum Driveshaft 3.5"

Aluminum DS = 20 lbs = $600 + easy self install
K-member = 18 lbs = $500 + more difficult possibly pay to install or check alignment after

Very similar weight to price. But the driveshaft is rotational weight, so it does affect the performance more than just normal weight.
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Old 07-09-2015, 03:39 PM   #30
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Still amazes me how a K member is only 18lbs dropped. I could drop 70-80lbs from a K member and A arms on my 01.
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Old 07-09-2015, 03:43 PM   #31
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Still amazes me how a K member is only 18lbs dropped. I could drop 70-80lbs from a K member and A arms on my 01.
Surprises me as well. Same with a arms. Thought there would be more weight there.

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Old 07-09-2015, 03:57 PM   #32
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Tubular radiator support is an easy 10 lbs off the very front of the car for $200.

The install was pretty fast & straight forward when I did mine.
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Old 07-09-2015, 04:04 PM   #33
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Have you weighed your car? Gives you a good starting point. Might even surprise yourself (in a good or bad way).
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Old 07-09-2015, 04:12 PM   #34
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Lightweight bumper support for front and rear. And lexan windows.

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Old 07-09-2015, 04:43 PM   #35
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I lost 80 lbs with just wheels and tires. If you go with a pair of little Burns Stainless race mufflers (there are race parts, so they probably will not sound great, but they reduce noise extremely well, and weigh next to nothing) and some lightweight tubing, you can lose probably 50-60 in catback (VERY conservative estimate, more loss with headers and cat delete or a turn down under seats). A pair of Kirkey Fab aluminum seats would probably eat the rest of that (bonus if you get rid of the airbags, sensors, and controller). You could go with a nice little LION battery, a few of us use them, but they are expensive...

Word of advice, be careful with Lexan windshields, the downside to them is that you CANNOT use windshield wipers without scratching the surface beyond belief (been there, done that).
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