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Old 08-08-2015, 06:07 AM   #106
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Originally Posted by eddie oh.5 View Post
For now yes it's still a stock motor but in October we're going to build it up then November is when the turbo is going on. And I chose 86 because for me it's not to big and not too small I was thinking of going twins but heard it takes longer to spool up it would be 2 62 or 74mm turbos if i went twins. So I figured one bigger one would compensate for two smaller ones and as far as fuel system in debating between 93 or e85
A 86 is going to be 100% useless unless you are planning for 1200 + at the tires. Talking about spool time your 86 is going to take alot longer than 2 62's. You need to go back to the drawing board big time.

And I mean fuel system not fuel choice, to have. Fuel system to use a 86mm to its advantages your looking at 4k+ just in that alone.

But as I said go back to the drawing board.

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Old 08-08-2015, 11:22 AM   #107
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Originally Posted by Rapinator126 View Post
A 86 is going to be 100% useless unless you are planning for 1200 + at the tires. Talking about spool time your 86 is going to take alot longer than 2 62's. You need to go back to the drawing board big time.

And I mean fuel system not fuel choice, to have. Fuel system to use a 86mm to its advantages your looking at 4k+ just in that alone.

But as I said go back to the drawing board.

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It's a long shot but 1200-1500 is what I'm trying to achieve I'm trying to make it to race with the big boys over at TX 2k16
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Old 08-08-2015, 11:32 AM   #108
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Originally Posted by eddie oh.5 View Post
It's a long shot but 1200-1500 is what I'm trying to achieve I'm trying to make it to race with the big boys over at TX 2k16
OK so this power goal I'm about to ask you some stuff.

What's ALL going to be done to the motor, what compression ratio, What rods, pistons, crank, etc?
What injectors, what fuel system,

Also what gear ratio

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Old 08-08-2015, 11:37 AM   #109
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But I'll definitely try and go back to evaluate everything again and how I should do this
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Old 08-08-2015, 01:47 PM   #110
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Manual trans.

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Originally Posted by bodon View Post
All I know is that there seems to be a lot of posts about issues with the manual transmissions.
I've noticed that too. I have '15 GT w/PP and 6 spd, but I don't race. I have noticed a little catch when upshifting but I can't recall which gear, maybe 3rd. Thats about it, except for a slight thump from the rear when depressing the clutch prior to upshifting, which may be due to rear end set up. I do recall reading about this is on the internet just after or slightly before availability.
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Old 08-08-2015, 07:10 PM   #111
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Originally Posted by Rapinator126 View Post
OK so this power goal I'm about to ask you some stuff.

What's ALL going to be done to the motor, what compression ratio, What rods, pistons, crank, etc?
What injectors, what fuel system,

Also what gear ratio

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I'm still all debating on everything my buddy over at lethal performance says there's many options one being a get a new crate already built to handle the power from AM.com or just building the one I have I don't have a set plan for it I can go many routes do you have any suggestions?
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Old 08-08-2015, 07:33 PM   #112
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Originally Posted by eddie oh.5 View Post
I'm still all debating on everything my buddy over at lethal performance says there's many options one being a get a new crate already built to handle the power from AM.com or just building the one I have I don't have a set plan for it I can go many routes do you have any suggestions?
No crate motor from American muscle is going to withstand that power level.

If you build the one you have now.
Your going to need to sleeve the block. I-beam rods and a cryo treated crank. And some nice pistons.

1500hp at the tires is no joke. That's 1700+ at the crank. Your buddy at lethal needs to rethink that also (the crate motor from am) considering the power level your going for.

What lethal performance are you talking about?

Also what single are you going with? Or you going to build a custom one

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Old 08-08-2015, 08:20 PM   #113
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I think everyone who has ever built a high HP motor can appreciate the time it takes to plan and pick the right components for the motor...............instead of talking to companies who sell parts and pieces/crate motors, you need to be talking to someone who has built 1000hp+ Coyote motors. I'd be talking with people like Rich Groh about the motor, Bruce Crower about the crank and maybe even the rods or Callies or Bryant on the crank and Ross or Mahle for pistons. I would think you'd be using a billet crank along with billet rods. Then you need to talk with Canton about the pan or maybe even go dry sump.........then there is the intake and fuel system............there are just so many things to take into consideration and a lot of planning.
As Rapinator126 said, there is no crate motor that is going to handle that kind of HP/TQ and if someone tells there is..............good luck!
Personally I think Rapinator is a little light on the cost of building the motor and I believe it's going to be more like $20k+.................don't forget then you are going to need some engine dyno time for break-in and initial tuning.......along with trouble shooting as it's a lot easier out of the car than in the car......IMHO
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Old 08-08-2015, 08:33 PM   #114
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15k + is what I said for the motor (I know this for a fact) not including fuel system ect.

I have 10k in my motor alone. Just in parts between pistons rods, head studs, valves. Valve springs, fuel system headwork, oil gears, timing chain guides ect. And mine is good for 1,000

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Old 08-08-2015, 09:38 PM   #115
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So much easier to just have a 300 rwhp bolt on mustang and call it a day. Ha ha ha. 😉

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Old 08-08-2015, 10:47 PM   #116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rapinator126 View Post
15k + is what I said for the motor (I know this for a fact) not including fuel system ect.

I have 10k in my motor alone. Just in parts between pistons rods, head studs, valves. Valve springs, fuel system headwork, oil gears, timing chain guides ect. And mine is good for 1,000

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I'm not doubting your figure as you've done this......I just bases the costs of parts I gotten for Bonneville motors in the past.....and although the parts were custom made.....I personally wouldn't want to rely on off-the-shelf parts for a motor making 1500 hp.......strictly my opinion.
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Old 08-08-2015, 10:51 PM   #117
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Originally Posted by olerodder View Post
I'm not doubting your figure as you've done this......I just bases the costs of parts I gotten for Bonneville motors in the past.....and although the parts were custom made.....I personally wouldn't want to rely on off-the-shelf parts for a motor making 1500 hp.......strictly my opinion.
I understand that. You can get a billet crank for about 4k, billet rods and a good piston for about 3,800

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Old 08-09-2015, 08:21 PM   #118
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I don't believe you will be disappointed at all. I have a 14 Manual with 3.73, its so much fun to drive. Automatics seem so boring, get the manual! My MT82 doesn't give any problems so far, its just a bit loud but you get passed that eventually.
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Old 08-10-2015, 11:57 AM   #119
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Old 08-11-2015, 10:14 PM   #120
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Agreed, lol...
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Old 08-11-2015, 10:43 PM   #121
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Autos are for noobs that still want to make good 1/4 times.
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Old 08-14-2015, 09:50 AM   #122
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Autos are for noobs that still want to make good 1/4 times.

Whatever dude. Wish mine was a 5spd but it is what it is. I still like the car and that's what counts.


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Old 08-14-2015, 11:02 AM   #123
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Will I Be Disappointed?

He tries to get a rise out of everyone. Don't let it get to you.


Pick your poison.
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Old 08-14-2015, 12:08 PM   #124
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Hey guys, I've got a 2014 GT with an auto trans, and I'm thinking about trading it in for a '13 or '14 with a manual trans. If I do a fluid swap and a short throw shifter, am I going to end up being disappointed that I made the switch? Is the MT-82 really that bad? I would also be boosting the car shortly after, and I'd like to make the trans last as it will be my DD.
You probably already figured out what you want, but if it's your fun car, i would consider trading to a manual 5.0. If mine was a daily, I would totally get an auto lol. There's too much traffic to have fun anyway in a daily.

The only bummer is...
  • You may be buying someone elses problem
  • You will need to get a short shifter ASAP, and they aren't cheap $$
  • You'll probably loose $$ on your trade-in

Aside from all ^that, I'd still probably do it considering it's a car for fun.
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Old 08-14-2015, 12:26 PM   #125
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A short shifter is not needed, just a shifter bushing and the trans bushing insert if you really want to firm it up, so maybe $70-100 bucks on the cheap side.
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Old 08-14-2015, 12:29 PM   #126
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Here is what IS needed.
Not what people who grandma there car say.
1. Shifter
2. Bracket
3. Mgw shifter arm bushing
4. Whiteline mount
5. Clutch line
6. Spring assist removal
And if you want
7. Trans fluid
8. Clutch

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Old 08-14-2015, 12:35 PM   #127
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I could see that if you track the car and spend a bunch of time in the 7k rpm range, but for everyday romping and the occasional trip to the drag strip, that's overkill IMO. Maybe I got the unicorn MT82 and clutch assembly, but I've had zero problems and I beat the **** out of my car everytime I drive it since it's not my daily, lol. I imagine once I do suspension, tune, tires, etc. I may have to start upgrading a few more things as my track times dip.
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Old 08-14-2015, 12:36 PM   #128
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I could see that if you track the car and spend a bunch of time in the 7k rpm range, but for everyday romping and the occasional trip to the drag strip, that's overkill IMO. Maybe I got the unicorn MT82 and clutch assembly, but I've had zero problems and I beat the **** out of my car everytime I drive it since it's not my daily, lol. I imagine once I do suspension, tune, tires, etc. I may have to start upgrading a few more things as my track times dip.
Where are you shifting at

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Old 08-14-2015, 12:38 PM   #129
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Right before 7k at the track, essentially when the tach turns red.
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Old 08-14-2015, 12:41 PM   #130
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Right before 7k at the track, essentially when the tach turns red.
Stock manifold still I'm assuming. If you decide to swap to the boss or CJ you Will need to do what I listed then

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Old 08-14-2015, 12:43 PM   #131
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Originally Posted by Rapinator126 View Post
Here is what IS needed.
Not what people who grandma there car say.
1. Shifter
2. Bracket
3. Mgw shifter arm bushing
4. Whiteline mount
5. Clutch line
6. Spring assist removal
And if you want
7. Trans fluid
8. Clutch

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I think if I'm planning to have fun with it, I'd probably be doing what's on the list. Maybe not all at once, but I would definitely get an MGW shifter for an MT82 tranny. Do the clutch line and fluid help with sloppy feel of just consistent feel? After test driving a Boss earlier this year, I'd definitely ditch the spring assist. It's already 5x easier to push the clutch in than my Mach lol.


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Old 08-14-2015, 12:44 PM   #132
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Yeah, I saw that high RPM's cause the pressure plate to centrifugally stick, but without going forced induction the Boss and CJ rob so much bottom end that the payoff N/A isn't worth it. Right now everything is completely stock on my car, but that'll change over the winter, and I'll likely eat my works about the clutch.
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Old 08-14-2015, 12:46 PM   #133
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I think if I'm planning to have fun with it, I'd probably be doing what's on the list. Maybe not all at once, but I would definitely get an MGW shifter for an MT82 tranny. Do the clutch line and fluid help with sloppy feel of just consistent feel? After test driving a Boss earlier this year, I'd definitely ditch the spring assist. It's already 5x easier to push the clutch in than my Mach lol.


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Yes the fluid is a must IMO and the clutch line makes a good improvement as well.
Yes it will get rid of the sloppy feel

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Old 08-14-2015, 02:05 PM   #134
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Ooof, so many shenanigans to shift correctly... what I have to look forward to when I eventually get something newer than an 04 which I will eventually.


Cable clutch and a toploader is so simple...
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Old 08-29-2015, 12:23 PM   #135
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I wanted a manual and found the color and combo I wanted. It has the factory 3.73 rear end. I was extremely disappointed with it at first. However I spent the money for a MGW Race-Spec shifter and it's now a completely different driving experience. No problem between 1st and 2nd. There product is so well engineered it's amazing. It's definitely worth the money!!!! I have had mine in for 3 months now. No noise, vibration or miss shifts. It's a completely redesigned shifting mechanism. Once I had the stock shifter and linkage on the bench side by side it amazing the factory shifter worked at all.. It was my primary car, probably would have been an auto, but for weekend fun nothing beats slamming through gears and getting those perfect shifts!!


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Old 12-06-2015, 10:56 PM   #136
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Well here's a resurrection for everyone. Traded in the '14 auto for a '16 manual and....... No regrets at all. Not one. I'm in love all over again.
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Old 12-07-2015, 11:18 PM   #137
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I suppose when it comes to Mustangs, I'd rather deal with a manual that has potential than deal with an automatic that does a fine job, but is still boring like all of it's auto transmission brethren.
You said it! I wouldn't own an automatic Mustang. It would take all the fun out of driving it
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Old 12-08-2015, 06:50 AM   #138
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Ppl who have never driven in/ridden in a big power auto just don't understand... I have half a mind to swap my Steeda to auto if I wind up setting it up for straight line. But first I need to get off my *** and find time to get the damn thing running.


Good to hear that RJ got a car that makes him happy tho.
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