Car follows road lines real bad - Mustang Evolution

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Old 07-27-2015, 01:40 AM   #1
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Car follows road lines real bad

I don't do a lot of freeway driving but today I drove to the track 35 miles away and while on the freeway my car follows every little line/bump in the road. Sometimes I'm gripping the wheel in an attempt not to get pulled out of my lane. It really seemed to be almost to dangerous to drive over 70mph. None of my others vehicles do this. Is this an alignment issue? Tires are 80% with even wear.
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Old 07-27-2015, 01:59 AM   #2
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Running summer tires? That's one issue, they will try to grab onto the imperfections on the road! I guess most of your other vehicles are on all seasons?

If not tires, get your alignment and suspension checked out

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Old 07-27-2015, 02:35 AM   #3
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Car follows road lines real bad

^ try to get your wheels balanced or get an alignment, that could be your issue.


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Old 07-27-2015, 02:46 AM   #4
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Jim Carey or Jeff Daniels?

Quote:
Originally Posted by grabber12 View Post
I don't do a lot of freeway driving but today I drove to the track 35 miles away and while on the freeway my car follows every little line/bump in the road. Sometimes I'm gripping the wheel in an attempt not to get pulled out of my lane. It really seemed to be almost to dangerous to drive over 70mph. None of my others vehicles do this. Is this an alignment issue? Tires are 80% with even wear.
If your car follows every little line or bump on the road, why did you take it to the track where your speeds would be higher than you do on the freeway?
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Old 07-27-2015, 05:35 AM   #5
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+1 on checking alignment, +1 on avoiding track in a car you are having difficulty controlling. I see in you sig lot of suspension mods and 10" wide rims with 275/60's I would check install of suspension and try other tires if those are what you were driving on
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Old 07-27-2015, 09:40 AM   #6
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If you are driving with the steering mode set to sport you will follow every bump in the road. If you don't want that, set it to comfort.
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Old 07-27-2015, 09:50 AM   #7
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It's on comfort 100% of the time. My logic on why I drive my car down the track is for me to worry about. I didn't ask anyone if they thought I should drive it or not. My front tires are still the factory pirelli's.

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Old 07-27-2015, 10:24 AM   #8
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This is a bit of an endemic curse of macstrut front ends when combined with relatively stiff sidewall tires. Pirelli carcasses, even on the moderate Neros, tend to the stiff side.

You don't need an alignment or wheel balance. Try rotating the front tires to the back for a start. Otherwise, if you can't stand it, I'd suggest a tire change for one with a more motile carcass. You'll sacrifice a touch of steering precision but, it'll ease this issue. On the cheap end if tires that are good at this are the Hankook Ventus V12 Eco and on the expensive end the Michelin Pilot Sport AS3. Both are all-season.

I had the P Zero summers only on my Brembo car and they tramilined like crazy, especially when worn. Pilot AS 3 now, no problem.
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Old 07-27-2015, 12:35 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grabber12 View Post
I don't do a lot of freeway driving but today I drove to the track 35 miles away and while on the freeway my car follows every little line/bump in the road. Sometimes I'm gripping the wheel in an attempt not to get pulled out of my lane. It really seemed to be almost to dangerous to drive over 70mph. None of my others vehicles do this. Is this an alignment issue? Tires are 80% with even wear.
Just a couple of questions.
What size wheels/tires are you running and what is the offset of the wheels.
When you checked your alignment what were the caster, camber and toe settings at.
Are you running street wheels/tires or track tires

The more caster.....least amount of camber you have into the car and the more the car will want to follow the highest line in the road. Case in point is that my car is setup with maximum caster of 7.8 degrees and camber of -1.5 degrees which is the minimum I can currently go. I'm also running 0.10 degrees toe. When I am driving the freeway (most of our freeways have ruts worn form years of cars/trucks driving them) the Mustang will not run in the ruts...................it will find the crown which is either right or left and drive the crowns..............when you put it back in the rut it will want to go either back to the left or right crown................so I drive the crowns (the unworn part of the freeway) and it will also reduce the noise the tires make (I've got Goodyear F1's)
I've got 265x40/19's in the front on 9.5" SVT Track Pak wheels with 45mm offset and have seen 0 uneven wear in 2800 miles.

One thing that must be dead on is the caster...............from side to side.

The nice thing about caster/camber plates is that you can experiment when you get to the track, then change back for the street.
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Old 07-27-2015, 01:07 PM   #10
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Just a couple of questions.
What size wheels/tires are you running and what is the offset of the wheels.
When you checked your alignment what were the caster, camber and toe settings at.
Are you running street wheels/tires or track tires

The more caster.....least amount of camber you have into the car and the more the car will want to follow the highest line in the road. Case in point is that my car is setup with maximum caster of 7.8 degrees and camber of 11.5 degrees which is the minimum I can currently go. I'm also running 0.10 degrees toe. When I am driving the freeway (most of our freeways have ruts worn form years of cars/trucks driving them) the Mustang will not run in the ruts...................it will find the crown which is either right or left and drive the crowns..............when you put it back in the rut it will want to go either back to the left or right crown................so I drive the crowns (the unworn part of the freeway) and it will also reduce the noise the tires make (I've got Goodyear F1's)
I've got 265x40/19's in the front on 9.5" SVT Track Pak wheels with 45mm offset and have seen 0 uneven wear in 2800 miles.

One thing that must be dead on is the caster...............from side to side.

The nice thing about caster/camber plates is that you can experiment when you get to the track, then change back for the street.
Did you mean to type 11.5 * camber or is that a typo?
Can't possibly be 11.5* I think you meant 1.5*
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Old 07-27-2015, 01:09 PM   #11
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Did you mean to type 11.5 * camber or is that a typo?
Can't possibly be 11.5* I think you meant 1.5*
Thanks for catching the error................I meant -1.5 degrees.......although -2 to -3 would be interesting to try and a technical road coarse like Sears Point or Laguna Seca.
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Old 07-27-2015, 01:11 PM   #12
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More caster will help the car go straight, that's it's job.
Usually when cars follow lines it's because the toe is off or there are loose parts in the steering that allows the toe to change when it encounters a line.
Lots of -Camber doesn't help but it's most likely the toe.
Rub your hand across the tread of the tire...is it smooth and flat or does it feel a little like a saw blade?
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Old 07-27-2015, 01:22 PM   #13
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I agree with more caster for straight line stability....................at Bonneville we would run over 15/18 degrees positive caster.
Unless the op has a lot of toe out I doubt it would make the car wonder like he is describing. Toe out is great for road racing track because it will enable faster turn in...............at the strip it's going to be plowing.......................So yes it could be either or any combination of the above.
If the op has an iPhone, get the app called iAlign....................this can be a great tool for checking caster and camber.
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Old 07-27-2015, 01:25 PM   #14
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I agree with more caster for straight line stability....................at Bonneville we would run over 15/18 degrees positive caster.
Unless the op has a lot of toe out I doubt it would make the car wonder like he is describing. Toe out is great for road racing track because it will enable faster turn in...............at the strip it's going to be plowing.......................So yes it could be either or any combination of the above.
If the op has an iPhone, get the app called iAlign....................this can be a great tool for checking caster and camber.
Yeah, toe will have both tires slipping a little bit all the time so as soon as the traction between them differs it will pull to one side or the other.
I was a brake and front end man for about 15 years so I've seen a lot stuff, plus racing stock cars for 16 years you bend a lot of stuff a lot of different ways and you get to see what happens when you do that

I want to hear about this iphone app....
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Old 07-27-2015, 01:36 PM   #15
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It's on comfort 100% of the time. My logic on why I drive my car down the track is for me to worry about. I didn't ask anyone if they thought I should drive it or not. My front tires are still the factory pirelli's.

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And I assume that the rear tires are drag slicks?
With how many pounds of pressure in them?
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Old 07-27-2015, 01:39 PM   #16
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Yeah, toe will have both tires slipping a little bit all the time so as soon as the traction between them differs it will pull to one side or the other.
I was a brake and front end man for about 15 years so I've seen a lot stuff, plus racing stock cars for 16 years you bend a lot of stuff a lot of different ways and you get to see what happens when you do that

I want to hear about this iphone app....
Just an easy tool to use to check caster/camber.
When I was dialing in the alignment of my Maverick drag car I tried a number caster camber settings and set it with the iPhone. When I took it to the alignment shop my phone was almost spot on to the $1million machine.
I also used it on my Mustang when I lowered it.....................it was 0.1 degree off on caster and -0.1 off on camber from the dealers $1million machine.
It works for me just like the app for driveshaft angles/vehicle speed calculator and RPM calculator/tire size calculator all in the TREMEC Tool Box app.

https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/ialign/id334573404?mt=8
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Old 07-27-2015, 01:42 PM   #17
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And I assume that the rear tires are drag slicks?
With how many pounds of pressure in them?
I would hope he has DOT drag radials and not slicks...................
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Old 07-27-2015, 01:47 PM   #18
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I would hope he has DOT drag radials and not slicks...................
Lol.
He has slicks...
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Old 07-27-2015, 01:48 PM   #19
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To answer some questions I have the stock 19 inch wheels from Ford running the stock tires up front which are 245-45-19. In the rear I run
15 x10 rims with 275 -60-15. I don't have those wheels on all the time but the car acts the same no matter which rear setup I have mounted. My daily drivers in the rear are also the stock 19 inch wheels on Eagle f1 supercars 255-40-19. I haven't taken my car to get aligned yet only because I don't trust many shops with alignment with caster camber plates. I call shops and ask can you do an alignment with aftermarket caster camber plates and they always say bring it by I will take a look. Does anyone on here know of a great place to get my suspension dialed in in the Southern California area? I love somebody who knows what they're doing to touch my car and not some shop like Goodyear or pepboys

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Old 07-27-2015, 01:48 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by olerodder View Post
Just an easy tool to use to check caster/camber.
When I was dialing in the alignment of my Maverick drag car I tried a number caster camber settings and set it with the iPhone. When I took it to the alignment shop my phone was almost spot on to the $1million machine.
I also used it on my Mustang when I lowered it.....................it was 0.1 degree off on caster and -0.1 off on camber from the dealers $1million machine.
It works for me just like the app for driveshaft angles/vehicle speed calculator and RPM calculator/tire size calculator all in the TREMEC Tool Box app.

https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/ialign/id334573404?mt=8
I have that tremec app.
When I was doing stock cars we had a magnetic gauge that stuck on the hub. That worked great but these days you can't always get to the hub so I stick an inclometer on the back of the rotor for camber and on the base of the steering knuckle for caster. That worked well until things started changing again so it no longer works on all cars, plus with a stock body car it tough to get under there.

The old carpenters square trick works but doesn't account for the bubble in the tire being bigger on the bottom so it's imperfect. Have to go by the wheel itself which isn't always easy to do with some wheels. I just bought that app so I'll check it out. thanks for the tip.
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Old 07-27-2015, 02:30 PM   #21
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To answer some questions I have the stock 19 inch wheels from Ford running the stock tires up front which are 245-45-19. In the rear I run
15 x10 rims with 275 -60-15. I don't have those wheels on all the time but the car acts the same no matter which rear setup I have mounted. My daily drivers in the rear are also the stock 19 inch wheels on Eagle f1 supercars 255-40-19. I haven't taken my car to get aligned yet only because I don't trust many shops with alignment with caster camber plates. I call shops and ask can you do an alignment with aftermarket caster camber plates and they always say bring it by I will take a look. Does anyone on here know of a great place to get my suspension dialed in in the Southern California area? I love somebody who knows what they're doing to touch my car and not some shop like Goodyear or pepboys

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As stated above, summer tires tend to be less "driver friendly" than true all season tires. And it doesn't help when you have a staggered setup that can't be rotated.
Maybe, as an experiment, you could put the 255's, that you normally use on the rear, and put them on the front to see if that helps any. If the 255's were only used on the rear, they should still be worn relatively flat. That will give you an indication if this is tire related or not.

Can't help with any good alignment shops down south. I'm still trying to find one here in NorCal that I trust!
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Old 07-27-2015, 02:33 PM   #22
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To answer some questions I have the stock 19 inch wheels from Ford running the stock tires up front which are 245-45-19. In the rear I run
15 x10 rims with 275 -60-15. I don't have those wheels on all the time but the car acts the same no matter which rear setup I have mounted. My daily drivers in the rear are also the stock 19 inch wheels on Eagle f1 supercars 255-40-19. I haven't taken my car to get aligned yet only because I don't trust many shops with alignment with caster camber plates. I call shops and ask can you do an alignment with aftermarket caster camber plates and they always say bring it by I will take a look. Does anyone on here know of a great place to get my suspension dialed in in the Southern California area? I love somebody who knows what they're doing to touch my car and not some shop like Goodyear or pepboys

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Maybe someone will chime in about a good shop in SoCal.........I know a couple shops in NorCal..............you really need to have it checked before you go much further.
Before I put the 14 GT500 TrakPak wheels and tires on the Mustang I had the OE Brembo wheels and Pirelli tires. When I switched to the F1 on all four corners the car has more traction in warm weather than the Pirelli's ever had and I notice the car being more twitchy on bad roads (our rutted highways).....................and much better on smooth roads. In a few weeks I'm going to put the car on a road course to see how it handles around curves at speed in preparation for the Silver States Classic in September.
I assume that you have drag radials rather than slicks................right?
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Old 07-27-2015, 02:35 PM   #23
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Maybe someone will chime in about a good shop in SoCal.........I know a couple shops in NorCal..............you really need to have it checked before you go much further.
Before I put the 14 GT500 TrakPak wheels and tires on the Mustang I had the OE Brembo wheels and Pirelli tires. When I switched to the F1 on all four corners the car has more traction in warm weather than the Pirelli's ever had and I notice the car being more twitchy on bad roads (our rutted highways).....................and much better on smooth roads. In a few weeks I'm going to put the car on a road course to see how it handles around curves at speed in preparation for the Silver States Classic in September.
I assume that you have drag radials rather than slicks................right?
Silver state classic?
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Old 07-27-2015, 02:55 PM   #24
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Silver state classic?
Sorry, I just assumed most people knew what it was.................90 mile open road race on Route #318 between Lund and Hiko Nevada. It's actually a 4 day event............Thursday through Saturday with racing on Sunday. I think they also have the High Noon Shootout which is a 1/2 mile balls to wall on Friday and the 1 mile on Saturday................some very serious machines there capable of 180/200mph+.

Silver State Classic Challenge Inc.

I ran it three times in my 97 SVT Cobra............started in the 125mph class and ran the last one in the 145mph class. If it's your first time you must take the driving coarse at the Las Vegas Motor Speedway and then I think you start out in the 125mph class...............after that initial race you are then open from any class up to and including the Unlimited Speed Class (some of those cars are doing 200mph+.......................although the tech inspection is pretty strict.
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Old 07-27-2015, 03:06 PM   #25
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Yes I have some DOT mickey T's. They are new.

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Old 07-27-2015, 03:07 PM   #26
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I ran my own version of the "Golden State Classic", about a month ago, and my car didn't do so good.


I'd love to do that Silver State Classic but it just isn't in the cards this year.
Definitely on my bucket list though!
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Old 07-27-2015, 04:51 PM   #27
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Sorry, I just assumed most people knew what it was.................90 mile open road race on Route #318 between Lund and Hiko Nevada. It's actually a 4 day event............Thursday through Saturday with racing on Sunday. I think they also have the High Noon Shootout which is a 1/2 mile balls to wall on Friday and the 1 mile on Saturday................some very serious machines there capable of 180/200mph+.

Silver State Classic Challenge Inc.

I ran it three times in my 97 SVT Cobra............started in the 125mph class and ran the last one in the 145mph class. If it's your first time you must take the driving coarse at the Las Vegas Motor Speedway and then I think you start out in the 125mph class...............after that initial race you are then open from any class up to and including the Unlimited Speed Class (some of those cars are doing 200mph+.......................although the tech inspection is pretty strict.
Ah yeas...the one where people get killed. I think I'll stay on a real track.
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Old 07-27-2015, 05:15 PM   #28
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In all fairness, I think that four people have been killed in almost 30 years.
That's not a bad safety record and I doubt that there are many racetracks that could beat it.

Your car was almost built to compete in that sort of race Sal.
Out of all the cars on this website, if I wanted to seriously compete in the Silver State, would probably choose your car to race in.
I might put a cage in it first though...
Lol
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Old 07-27-2015, 05:18 PM   #29
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Old 07-27-2015, 05:19 PM   #30
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Got a 6 point...that's almost a cage:

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Old 07-27-2015, 05:21 PM   #31
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Got one:

How did I not notice THAT!
Lol.
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Old 07-27-2015, 05:26 PM   #32
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How did I not notice THAT!
Lol.
You must have not had the door bars on, when I saw your car.
And probably the hood was open...
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Old 07-27-2015, 05:57 PM   #33
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I think the 4 or 5 road race tracks in California have killed that many people in the past 5 years.................yes I think that is a great record.
Being a licensed tech for the SCCA has given new meaning to safety.
The SSC race has better tech inspection than any NASA/NHRA event I've ever been to.
I think over 130mph you need a cage................when I raced the Cobra I had a guy Dale Caufield of Weedetr Street Rods build one for me............................a take out cage.
My days of serious racing are long gone................I'll leave that to you youngsters. I'm just out to be with friends.......have fun and run the race one last time.
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Old 07-27-2015, 06:03 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by straybullitt View Post
You must have not had the door bars on, when I saw your car.
And probably the hood was open...
Door bars are always in......yes, the hood does garner some attention when open.
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Old 07-27-2015, 06:04 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olerodder View Post
I think the 4 or 5 road race tracks in California have killed that many people in the past 5 years.................yes I think that is a great record.
Being a licensed tech for the SCCA has given new meaning to safety.
The SSC race has better tech inspection than any NASA/NHRA event I've ever been to.
I think over 130mph you need a cage................when I raced the Cobra I had a guy Dale Caufield of Weedetr Street Rods build one for me............................a take out cage.
My days of serious racing are long gone................I'll leave that to you youngsters. I'm just out to be with friends.......have fun and run the race one last time.
That's what I always say but my car keeps morphing into something new.
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