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Old 05-05-2016, 08:12 AM   #386
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Quote:
Originally Posted by medwards View Post
Olerodder (and everyone else that can help )

I have my shift light.
Shaking my head here. If you actually drive the car enough, you'll know the RPM by the sound of your engine. Not sure what they've done with the ECU programming wise.

If Shelby has the car programmed like most stock engines that will cut the gas when you red line. You can just practice a bunch of times, if you go over you'll redline and engine will "stall". (no big deal)

But you need to learn the sound... you hear it building up to that sound and anticipate the shift. Practice over & over again, with the windows down! You'll get it.

Worrying about some light and waiting for that to light up, I personally think you're going to be over thinking things and lose performance.

Once again, there's no substitute for real seat time. Simulators, fancy lights, higher horsepower, etc... won't help if you don't have the actual first hand practice.
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Old 05-05-2016, 08:52 AM   #387
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I don't disagree with what you are saying in principle.

The car does have a rev limiter and it's not supposed to cause damage when it's hit....but it does make me cringe when I hit it. And, I've hit it more times than I want to admit. The light should help prevent that.

Additionally, I expect the light to help me determine optimal shift points more quickly than sheer seat time alone. If I set the shift point and then move it up or down I can test the difference in 1/4 mile time/traction knowing what the shift point was. At the very least I can set the shift point a couple hundred RPM below the rev limiter and at least I won't hit the rev limiter anymore because I'll "see the light".

I realize you aren't suggesting this, but I can't run this thing on the street testing 1/4 mile runs as it's so damn loud and fast that I'm either going to get into an accident or get a ticket (or arrested), so I'm limited to the strip. When at the strip I can honestly expect maybe 15 runs on a good night. So, knowing the actual shift points is going to be helpful to shorten the learning curve, I believe. After a while I hope not to need to even need it as you say.

I haven't seriously tinkered with cars for about 2 decades and things have definitely changes. I did go to Helm and just ordered the full CD-ROM dealer service manual for the car. After looking at some wiring schematics online last night I'm realizing that I better understand the sensors on this car very well or I'm going to be getting into trouble fast and may inadvertently cause issues without having proper knowledge. It also appears that the location of pins in the wiring harness may not be entirely consistent from every 2015 Mustang to another, so having the factory service manual's diagrams will be very helpful. I may even take one or two of their online courses on the car's electrical system. Can't hurt, especially since I'm going to be diving into the other car (aka the clone) in great detail.
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Old 05-05-2016, 10:02 AM   #388
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Quote:
Originally Posted by medwards View Post
Olerodder (and everyone else that can help )

I have my shift light. Now I am learning about the apparent lack of a normal tach signal in late model Mustangs. There seems to be a fair amount of information on this, but I'm still somewhat confused and not certain what my specific shift light needs.

1. There is a tach adapter (RPM SIGNAL ADAPTER FOR DISTRIBUTORLESS IGNITIONS) that can be installed to convert digital coil signals pulses to a tach signal. It costs almost $100 so I'd like to be certain I need it and it will work with the Schnitz shift light. I think this is probably what I need to install for the light to work, but want to be certain. The install manual specifically references '99 - '04 mustangs which is odd. So, does it not apply to later model mustangs?

2. Some folks talk about using an injector wire for the signal. Not sure if that applies to this light.

3. The instructions that came with the light says I can use a "negative side of an ignition coil". Not sure if that applies to the Mustang setup.

Help...
Had a friend send me this;
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Old 05-05-2016, 10:09 AM   #389
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Is this the light that you purchased?
http://www.americanmuscle.com/msd-di...blue&GID=14211

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Mustang Evolution mobile app
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Old 05-05-2016, 10:15 AM   #390
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Quote:
Originally Posted by c_rizzle View Post
Shaking my head here. If you actually drive the car enough, you'll know the RPM by the sound of your engine. Not sure what they've done with the ECU programming wise.

If Shelby has the car programmed like most stock engines that will cut the gas when you red line. You can just practice a bunch of times, if you go over you'll redline and engine will "stall". (no big deal)

But you need to learn the sound... you hear it building up to that sound and anticipate the shift. Practice over & over again, with the windows down! You'll get it.

Worrying about some light and waiting for that to light up, I personally think you're going to be over thinking things and lose performance.

Once again, there's no substitute for real seat time. Simulators, fancy lights, higher horsepower, etc... won't help if you don't have the actual first hand practice.
I don't want sound overpowering here but sound has nothing to do with optimum power meaning torque and peak HP. Unless you know exactly where these are you will be either under or over these points...of course the only way to know is to put the car on a dyno....and find them, then set the light to match the numbers. On my ole drag car the motor could easily go over 7500rpm and although this sounded great I would have been loosing HP/TQ. The peak TQ was at 5700rpm and the peak HP was at 6800rpm....so my light was set for burnout at 5700rpm, launch was at 5000rpm...where the converter was and shift was at 7100rpm.....trying to find these numbers by sound just ain't going to happen I don't care how much seat time you have....IMHO
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Old 05-05-2016, 10:26 AM   #391
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Originally Posted by straybullitt View Post
Is this the light that you purchased?
MSD Programmable Digital Mustang Shift Light 8963 (79-16 All) - Free Shipping

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Mustang Evolution mobile app
This is what he got;

https://store.schnitzracing.com/schn...oshift-output/
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Old 05-05-2016, 10:41 AM   #392
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I guess I missed that part.

Well, if the installation is anything like that MSD, it looks like you just tap into one of the coils for the signal.
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Old 05-05-2016, 10:56 AM   #393
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I guess I missed that part.
Hahaha. I'll call them and get the answer and post it.
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Old 05-05-2016, 10:58 AM   #394
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Hahaha. I'll call them and get the answer and post it.
Did you see the PDf file I sent you???
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Old 05-05-2016, 11:19 AM   #395
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Yes, but I don't think the instructions you posted completely address the issue(s) for this specific light (unless the Schnitz light is also the Raptor light?).

Two issues:
  1. It's looking for a VSS for the launch control...the 2015 mustang has an OSS. Not sure the light can interpret the signal from an OSS.
  2. In the Sport Bike part of the instructions it says to use + and - wires from an ignition coil to connect the light. But then in the universal instructions setting it says to hook the green wire to either a)tach input signal or b) negative wire from a coil.

Problems
  1. The car doesn't have factory tach signal, and I think hooking to the ground on one of the coils isn't going to get a signal (unless the car cycles the ground to fire the cylinder instead of cycling the positive to fire the coil....my guess is it cycles the positive...so hooking up to the ground on one of the coils will simply ground the light and it won't function)
  2. The Mustang coil pulses 3 times I believe for each cylinder firing. Don't know if this light could even interpret that type of signal.

Solutions?
  1. Buy a tach adapter and install it to get a tach input signal to hook to the light.
  2. Call and ask them if the light can accept an OSS signal instead of a VSS signal to get the launch control to work.

As I said above, I haven't played with cars in a very very long time. And boy have things changes (much more complicated on the electronics). However, the basics are the same so I just need the manual to understand the complications. Once I have my CD-ROM from Helm I won't feel like such a neophyte. I should be able to answer my own questions. I was hoping to try the shift light this weekend, but looks like I need to get some questions answered first. I was told by Schnitz to call back at 2EST and talk to "Kevin". That should help answer the questions.
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Old 05-05-2016, 11:36 AM   #396
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The friend that sent the instructions says the light is made by Raptor...which I didn't know....although I've been drag racing since dirt was invented all of the cars that were race only always had a distributor....although I was mechanical engineer
engineer most of my life....electrical engineering is out of my wheel house unless it's simple.
I would think by calling Raptor you could get the information you need...IMHO
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Old 05-05-2016, 11:40 AM   #397
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Originally Posted by olerodder View Post
The friend that sent the instructions says the light is made by Raptor...which I didn't know....I would think by calling Raptor you could get the information you need...IMHO
Awesome, that's good information to know. I'll see what Kevin at Schnitz says and ask him if I can follow the Raptor instructions. If he is less than certain I'll call Raptor.

I'm an economist so you've got a lot of knowledge I don't! even if your area of study wasn't electronics. Good thing is that I was raised a redneck and spent my teen years working in the pits for a couple buddies who drag raced.
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Old 05-05-2016, 11:55 AM   #398
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Awesome, that's good information to know. I'll see what Kevin at Schnitz says and ask him if I can follow the Raptor instructions. If he is less than certain I'll call Raptor.

I'm an economist so you've got a lot of knowledge I don't! even if your area of study wasn't electronics. Good thing is that I was raised a redneck and spent my teen years working in the pits for a couple buddies who drag raced.
I would have never taken you for an economist....I rebuilt my first 6 cyl Corvette motor when I was 14, and installed it in my 52 Htp when I was 15. My dad was a Mechanic and my grandfather was an automotive machinist....I got a lot of help when I was young.....first went drag racing at 17........that was lifetimes ago.
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Old 05-05-2016, 01:11 PM   #399
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I don't want sound overpowering here but sound has nothing to do with optimum power meaning torque and peak HP. Unless you know exactly where these are you will be either under or over these points...of course the only way to know is to put the car on a dyno....and find them, then set the light to match the numbers. On my ole drag car the motor could easily go over 7500rpm and although this sounded great I would have been loosing HP/TQ. The peak TQ was at 5700rpm and the peak HP was at 6800rpm....so my light was set for burnout at 5700rpm, launch was at 5000rpm...where the converter was and shift was at 7100rpm.....trying to find these numbers by sound just ain't going to happen I don't care how much seat time you have....IMHO
Well, I know in the past after many times of actual first hand shifting, I could both hear & feel where the power band was for my cars and after doing it enough I could tell by sound where about 7000 rpms (max hp) was that I wanted to shift at. When I went over that, I could feel the power taper off a little, the ECU was programmed to taper off up to 7,400 redline.
(example rpm's were from my Cayman S, your #'s may vary)
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Old 05-19-2016, 11:36 AM   #400
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Took the dash of the Super Snake partially apart to install the shift light. Should have it completed this weekend. Turns out the 95 pin connector on the PCM does have everything I need to install the light (RPM from a pin that shows coil firing, speed sensor via the OSS, and switched power). Ordered a 4 pin connector and extra pins off the internet to make this look like a factory install. I'll put up more pics and details once I'm done.

The CD-ROM factory service manual and wiring diagrams I picked up from Helm, Inc. is a great add to owning a 2015 Mustang. Was a bit expensive ($177) but has an absolute ton of information, great instructions, and awesome illustrations for all the things you'd ever want to do to an S550 mustang.
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Old 05-20-2016, 01:06 AM   #401
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I think that a service manual is mandatory for anyone who plans on working on their own vehicle. Even a cheap one from the auto parts stores can be very helpful.

That should really come in handy for the clone build.
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Old 05-20-2016, 02:31 PM   #402
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Curious as to where you're mounting this shift light..
.
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Old 05-20-2016, 02:42 PM   #403
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Mounting it to the gauge pod that is mounted in the middle of the dash.


So, I drilled a hole in the gauge pod and am using the hole that Shelby drilled in the dash top vent.


I then followed their wires behind the radio and down to the passenger compartment and out the grommet near the computer to the passenger wheel well. Then to the PCM mounted on the passenger side of the engine compartment. Had to dismantle the dash to get behind the central air vents because I couldn't snake it without loosening up everything. Kind of a pain in the butt.
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Old 05-21-2016, 09:09 AM   #404
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Mounting it to the gauge pod that is mounted in the middle of the dash. So, I drilled a hole in the gauge pod and am using the hole that Shelby drilled in the dash top vent. Kind of a pain in the butt.
.
So it will be mounted to the cover on top of the gauge pod ?
Like to see pics of the finished install.
.

.
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Old 05-21-2016, 11:15 PM   #405
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Here are some pics of it installed. The hole is drilled into the side of the shelby gauge housing (yes...I drilled into it). The bracket is attached to the shelby housing via double sided tape. There is enough slack cable in the shelby housing that I can take the light out of the bracket and turn it so I can see the LED screen on it to adjust the settings. Then I just tuck the cable back into the housing when I put the light back on the bracket.
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Old 05-21-2016, 11:18 PM   #406
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Very nice job and I love the placement...looks perfect to me!
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Old 05-21-2016, 11:21 PM   #407
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TU. It seemed the logical place. I had to remove the vent cover it's sitting on, the aluminum trim piece below, the glove box, and the trim piece to the right of the glove box....and that was a bit of a pain in the butt because I then had to buy more clips from Ford to replace the ones that broke taking those piece off....but now that it's installed it looks like something Shelby installed.

When I put the black light cover on you don't even notice it (I put the red one on for the pics so you'd see it better).
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Old 05-21-2016, 11:30 PM   #408
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Taking apart any dash...I would just as soon as take a motor/trans out of a car rather than tear a dash apart....just looks like it belongs there...
All you need now is an 2qt. accusump and low oil pressure kill switch and you should have no worries...
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Old 05-21-2016, 11:44 PM   #409
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I definitely hear you on that low oil kill switch!
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Old 05-23-2016, 07:51 AM   #410
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Install came out great..
.
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Old 05-26-2016, 05:53 PM   #411
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TU.

Was running the "to be" clone car (put post on At the Track section). Got my R/T to a 0.06 on average. Real happy about that. Lowest was a 13.35 second 1/4 at 109mph. I think that's all she's got with 3.31 gears. Now it's time to start swapping out parts and see what happens. I want a 12.0 before I put on the super charger. Then I want a 10.75 with the SC. Then I want a 9.0 when I install the wet shot of nitrous. Then I'll have a real car....hehehe.
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Old 05-26-2016, 08:08 PM   #412
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Just curious as to you 60' and 330' foot times.
As I said before...getting into the 9's is all about chassis setup....of course you need some ponies under the hood...maybe some stronger components on the other end of the flywheel....I'm counting on you to do this and you don't want to disappoint an "Ole Senior Citizen"!
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Old 05-27-2016, 10:38 AM   #413
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TU.

Was running the "to be" clone car (put post on At the Track section). Got my R/T to a 0.06 on average. Real happy about that. Lowest was a 13.35 second 1/4 at 109mph. I think that's all she's got with 3.31 gears. Now it's time to start swapping out parts and see what happens. I want a 12.0 before I put on the super charger. Then I want a 10.75 with the SC. Then I want a 9.0 when I install the wet shot of nitrous. Then I'll have a real car....hehehe.

.

.
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Old 05-27-2016, 03:02 PM   #414
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Just curious as to you 60' and 330' foot times.
As I said before...getting into the 9's is all about chassis setup....of course you need some ponies under the hood...maybe some stronger components on the other end of the flywheel....I'm counting on you to do this and you don't want to disappoint an "Ole Senior Citizen"!
My best 60' time was 2.05. Traction limited that.

After I get the car into the 10's with it setup like the Super Snake, I'm going to take the clone further. Engine will come out at that point for a number of strength enhancing mods. I'm hoping to turn the supercharger boost up and add nitrous after the engine mods.
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Old 05-27-2016, 03:04 PM   #415
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[/B]
.

.
So you're in that range. Awesome.
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Old 05-28-2016, 03:45 PM   #416
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OK, need some opinions. I have decided to take a challenge from 3 Hellcats on June 8th at NE Dragway in Epping NH at 6pm. I sent an email to Shelby asking for the wheel offsets for a set of Weld Racing rims for the rear. I'm looking into tires and rims. I'll get the info on what will fit from Shelby (I have 305/30 zR20....27.2 inch diameter....looking at the car I think anything around 12 inch wide and under 28 inch diameter will clear).

Would you go with Nitto or M/T, or does it not matter with drag radials?

Looking right now at 305/35 r20

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mtt-3402

http://www.nittotire.com/race-tires/...g-radial-tire/
The Nitto 05R seems like the better tire but I think the only size they have in that compound (315/35 r20) will rub....have to ask the folks at Shebly).

I didn't see any Hoosiers or M&H that would fit a 20" rim.
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Old 05-28-2016, 04:49 PM   #417
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Awesome!
I look forward to you kicking some Chrysler arse.

What are the smallest diameter wheels that will fit on the rear of your car?
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Old 05-28-2016, 05:11 PM   #418
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Awesome!
I look forward to you kicking some Chrysler arse.

What are the smallest diameter wheels that will fit on the rear of your car?
My rotors are 13.5". Including the wilwood calipers I am at 16.5 inches. So, the inner diameter of the rim has to be greater than that. Allowing for the actual bead on the rim, I'm thinking the 20 inch rims are about right. I may be able to get 19's on. I could try the stock rims which I kept. Those are 19's. Maybe I'll try them later tonight.
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Old 05-28-2016, 05:50 PM   #419
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Old 05-29-2016, 02:10 AM   #420
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Quote:
Originally Posted by medwards View Post
My rotors are 13.5". Including the wilwood calipers I am at 16.5 inches. So, the inner diameter of the rim has to be greater than that. Allowing for the actual bead on the rim, I'm thinking the 20 inch rims are about right. I may be able to get 19's on. I could try the stock rims which I kept. Those are 19's. Maybe I'll try them later tonight.
The front rotors on my Bullitt are 13 inch, and 17 inch wheels fit... Perhaps 18 inch wheels will clear the rear brakes on your car?

Ideally, you want a setup like Alibi posted pictures of. Those obviously wouldn't work on your car though.
I suppose that is something to think about when you are setting up the brakes on your other car, if you wanted it to be more of a dragster.
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