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Old 08-19-2015, 11:33 PM   #1
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Downshifting is "loose"

Hello...have this issue that is aggravating. First, upshifting is almost perfect. I installed the 2-post bracket and Barton shifter, all bolts are snug and tight, car is bama tuned. The issue I am having is only when downshifting from 4th to 3rd or 3rd to 2nd OR when taking corners downshifting...the car wants to jerk slightly several times at the exact moment of transitioning to the next lower gear. I tend to avoid downshifting just because of this. It is almost a constant issue. Could this a bad u-joint or? Appreciate ANY suggestions other than taking into Ford for right now.
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Old 08-19-2015, 11:37 PM   #2
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Downshifting is "loose"

Get a MT-82 trans bushing insert made by either steeda or whiteline. This keeps the trans from flexing as much while you are shifting or downshifting due to the engine torquing.
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Old 08-20-2015, 04:59 AM   #3
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The whiteline bushing insert was my next install but thought it might create more noise and vibration from others are saying. I am leaning towards that it won't solve the downshift issue but you never know. I think maybe the driveshaft could be the issue? It is like there is too much play when downshifting. 6th and 5th and 4th gear are fine I downshift (rpm's rise momentarily) and it is a steady progressive rpm drop, lower gears has too much play and is not firm. It is lower speeds that really is very annoying. To help combat this clutch goes in for a second.
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Old 08-20-2015, 06:43 AM   #4
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One thing that will help you is to rev match before attempting to put it in the lower gear. Here is the procedure: Clutch in, push stick out of gear, gas pedal to raise engine speed, put stick in lower gear, release clutch.
Other than this, the only real solution is to install a transmission bushing insert, and replace the motor mounts with stiffer poly mounts and an engine torque damper (looks like a little shock absorber).
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Old 08-20-2015, 09:52 AM   #5
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Just a question although jande063 is right, you should always match RPM's when shifting down.....you mention the car jerks.....how does it jerk...does it jerk left or jerk right? If you are talking about a clunking sound/feel when you downshift I would suspect it being the two piece drive shaft.....that does have 3 universals.
I put the Whiteline trans mount in my car when it had the 2 piece drive shaft and it did vibrate and was noticeable to me.........not to anyone else. When I put the 1 piece driveline I had less vibration and no more clunking like the two piece.
How many miles do you have on your car at present?
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Old 08-20-2015, 10:45 AM   #6
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They say you can drill a hole in the center of the trans bushing insert to minimize the noise and such you get with it. Might be something worth looking in to if you get it. I might get one for my 2011.
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Old 08-20-2015, 11:07 AM   #7
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I have the steeda one myself and the NVH is so minimal you have to try to notice it. I didn't drill mine.
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Old 08-20-2015, 11:11 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by oxford5pointoh View Post
I have the steeda one myself and the NVH is so minimal you have to try to notice it. I didn't drill mine.
Is that the only stiffener you have or did you do away with the factory one for the shifter?
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Old 08-20-2015, 11:11 AM   #9
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I have the steeda one myself and the NVH is so minimal you have to try to notice it. I didn't drill mine.
Very nice. From the reviews on AM, some people sound like the whole damn car is shaking. LOL!
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Old 08-20-2015, 11:20 AM   #10
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Is that the only stiffener you have or did you do away with the factory one for the shifter?

I have the ford racing short shifter with the 2 post bracket

---------- Post added at 04:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:20 PM ----------

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Very nice. From the reviews on AM, some people sound like the whole damn car is shaking. LOL!

Ummmm yeah it's a muscle car. Duh. Lol
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Old 08-20-2015, 11:27 AM   #11
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I have the ford racing short shifter with the 2 post bracket

---------- Post added at 04:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:20 PM ----------




Ummmm yeah it's a muscle car. Duh. Lol
I mean due to the bushing being installed. lol
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Old 08-20-2015, 11:37 AM   #12
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I mean due to the bushing being installed. lol

People who act like the car is making a ton of noise or whatever due to installing this bushing are too sensitive and probably need to go buy a Lincoln.

The car shakes, that's what she does. Because muscle car

The bushing eliminates excessive movement or the buffer for that shaking or what I like to call awesomeness. So yeah it carries some of that into the cabin. But it's the sound of the car. These people complaining are way to sensitive. If their expectation is that they can have a muscle car that is like a Lincoln inside, well they get the wake up call.

I already had the FRPP short shifter, it adds some noise. But not a ton. So adding this bushing was almost no different except I found it to make the already improved crisp shifting achieved with the FRPP to be even better.

Silver lining here is that the part is less than 30 bucks and if it were to cause your b-hole to pucker up a little too much you just take it out in less than 15 minutes and move on. Lol.
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Old 08-20-2015, 11:39 AM   #13
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People who act like the car is making a ton of noise or whatever due to installing this bushing are too sensitive and probably need to go buy a Lincoln.

The car shakes, that's what she does. Because muscle car

The bushing eliminates excessive movement or the buffer for that shaking or what I like to call awesomeness. So yeah it carries some of that into the cabin. But it's the sound of the car. These people complaining are way to sensitive. If their expectation is that they can have a muscle car that is like a Lincoln inside, well they get the wake up call.

I already had the FRPP short shifter, it adds some noise. But not a ton. So adding this bushing was almost no different except I found it to make the already improved crisp shifting achieved with the FRPP to be even better.

Silver lining here is that the part is less than 30 bucks and if it were to cause your b-hole to pucker up a little too much you just take it out in less than 15 minutes and move on. Lol.
Lol you said b-hole

Just kidding....

I just want next month to hurry up and roll by so I can buy this stuff for my 2011.
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Old 08-20-2015, 12:04 PM   #14
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Lol you said b-hole



Just kidding....



I just want next month to hurry up and roll by so I can buy this stuff for my 2011.

Yes I did. Yes I did. I knew you wouldn't be able to resist giggling like a school girl so I had to toss it in there.

Why do you have to wait for next month again?
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Old 08-20-2015, 12:07 PM   #15
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Well I appreciate you looking out for me.

I have a nice chunk of money coming in and I plan on getting a bunch of odds and ends for the 2011. The bushing, steel brake lines, steel clutch line, driveshaft, etc.

Again, I am very happy it already came with 3.31s. Saves me money and a lot of headache. This seems ok on the 3.7 manuals to me after I took it for a drive. However, my Auto needed more pep so it got the 3.73s.
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Old 08-20-2015, 12:23 PM   #16
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Are you implying that there are mustangs that don't jerk when you downshift and abruptly let off the gas?

If you are talking about what I think you're talking about:
You can absorb every bit of that transition to engine braking with the way you release the clutch


My car will jerk violently if I just put it down in first and dump the clutch and don't even give it gas.


You match the revs, keep the revs matched, let off the clutch gently while making sure you are matching the revs right, then gradually get off the gas so that the transmission slop doesn't start bouncing the car back and forth. Ive never driven a manual transmission car or motorcycle that won't buck if you downshift like a joey
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Old 08-20-2015, 07:33 PM   #17
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My Ford TrackKey tuned 2013 GT MT82 does not do this. {unless of course your talking about shifting like a joey } Try stock tune or other tune other than BAMA, the engine braking of the Ford tune helped way over the stock tune in mine.
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Old 08-21-2015, 06:18 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by jande063 View Post
One thing that will help you is to rev match before attempting to put it in the lower gear. Here is the procedure: Clutch in, push stick out of gear, gas pedal to raise engine speed, put stick in lower gear, release clutch.
Other than this, the only real solution is to install a transmission bushing insert, and replace the motor mounts with stiffer poly mounts and an engine torque damper (looks like a little shock absorber).
I refuse to live in a modern world where rev matching is necessary lol. I don't want to anticipate the approx. rpm for the next lower gear while shifting it is burdensome. Yes, I enjoy driving a manual car but rev-matching is hell on earth until a pro can show me. In some ways I want an auto. Yes, I said it lol. The bogging is normal when downshifting but my issue actually feels like there is a disconnect somewhere, I never recall having this happen when I got the car or perhaps I am more aware of the car's handling and performance now that I have been driving for a while. I will try the insert at some point but also will put in fresh Royal Purple Synchromax over the factory oil, even though I have 20k miles on the car. I plan on putting in fresh trans oil every 25k, even if it is a waste of $$$.

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Originally Posted by olerodder View Post
Just a question although jande063 is right, you should always match RPM's when shifting down.....you mention the car jerks.....how does it jerk...does it jerk left or jerk right? If you are talking about a clunking sound/feel when you downshift I would suspect it being the two piece drive shaft.....that does have 3 universals.
I put the Whiteline trans mount in my car when it had the 2 piece drive shaft and it did vibrate and was noticeable to me.........not to anyone else. When I put the 1 piece driveline I had less vibration and no more clunking like the two piece.
How many miles do you have on your car at present?
It doesn't jerk left or right, that's pretty personal to be asking that lol. The clunking could just be because I am 1k downshifting to the next gear idk to be honest. Car has 20500 miles.

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Originally Posted by Kevin.Cook View Post
Well I appreciate you looking out for me.

I have a nice chunk of money coming in and I plan on getting a bunch of odds and ends for the 2011. The bushing, steel brake lines, steel clutch line, driveshaft, etc.

Again, I am very happy it already came with 3.31s. Saves me money and a lot of headache. This seems ok on the 3.7 manuals to me after I took it for a drive. However, my Auto needed more pep so it got the 3.73s.
I actually do not prefer the 3.31 that I have now and this is why people wanted 3.73's and also the reason why Ford deducted $995 on 3.31's to sell these cars, right? So you liked the 3.31's on the manual's but installed 3.73 on the auto?

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Are you implying that there are mustangs that don't jerk when you downshift and abruptly let off the gas?

You match the revs, keep the revs matched, let off the clutch gently while making sure you are matching the revs right, then gradually get off the gas so that the transmission slop doesn't start bouncing the car back and forth. Ive never driven a manual transmission car or motorcycle that won't buck if you downshift like a joey
Sorry, I refuse to rev match, won't be happening. The normal "bogging" down is fine such as downshifting in higher gears, I think my issue is downshifting at 1k at lower gears which I think I don't have a choice. In higher gears I down shift when the tach settles down to around 1300k. I am actually in a few weeks going to bypass the fly-by-wire system and increase the tps response and open the throttle plate instantly when depressing gas, I have read good reviews on this product. I will post about this when I get it. The fly-by-wire system is insanely delayed, even after tuning. Not only throttle delayed but the rpm ramp up is insanely slow.

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My Ford TrackKey tuned 2013 GT MT82 does not do this. {unless of course your talking about shifting like a joey } Try stock tune or other tune other than BAMA, the engine braking of the Ford tune helped way over the stock tune in mine.
What is shifting like a joey mean lol? I attempt to shift efficiently, quietly and swiftly as possible so that when shifting it is almost harmonious between the clutch and throttle. I may have to revert back to the stock tune to see the difference now that I have been adjusted to the 93 tune.
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Old 08-21-2015, 07:04 PM   #19
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I refuse to live in a modern world where rev matching is necessary lol. I don't want to anticipate the approx. rpm for the next lower gear while shifting it is burdensome. Yes, I enjoy driving a manual car but rev-matching is hell on earth until a pro can show me. In some ways I want an auto. Yes, I said it lol. The bogging is normal when downshifting but my issue actually feels like there is a disconnect somewhere, I never recall having this happen when I got the car or perhaps I am more aware of the car's handling and performance now that I have been driving for a while. I will try the insert at some point but also will put in fresh Royal Purple Synchromax over the factory oil, even though I have 20k miles on the car. I plan on putting in fresh trans oil every 25k, even if it is a waste of $$$.



It doesn't jerk left or right, that's pretty personal to be asking that lol. The clunking could just be because I am 1k downshifting to the next gear idk to be honest. Car has 20500 miles.



I actually do not prefer the 3.31 that I have now and this is why people wanted 3.73's and also the reason why Ford deducted $995 on 3.31's to sell these cars, right? So you liked the 3.31's on the manual's but installed 3.73 on the auto?



Sorry, I refuse to rev match, won't be happening. The normal "bogging" down is fine such as downshifting in higher gears, I think my issue is downshifting at 1k at lower gears which I think I don't have a choice. In higher gears I down shift when the tach settles down to around 1300k. I am actually in a few weeks going to bypass the fly-by-wire system and increase the tps response and open the throttle plate instantly when depressing gas, I have read good reviews on this product. I will post about this when I get it. The fly-by-wire system is insanely delayed, even after tuning. Not only throttle delayed but the rpm ramp up is insanely slow.

I'd really be interesting hearing about this fly/by/wire bypass. What is the name of the product?


What is shifting like a joey mean lol? I attempt to shift efficiently, quietly and swiftly as possible so that when shifting it is almost harmonious between the clutch and throttle. I may have to revert back to the stock tune to see the difference now that I have been adjusted to the 93 tune.
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Old 08-21-2015, 07:15 PM   #20
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For anyone who drives a stick..........interesting video of how to drive a clutch..........or not.

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Old 08-21-2015, 09:27 PM   #21
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I'd really be interesting hearing about this fly/by/wire bypass. What is the name of the product?
I've looked a lot into hardware products that increase the signal to the tps. I think they all essentially function the same as far as only dealing with the tps signal and do not interfere with tunes at all. So far I think the best one for me at least is Sprint Booster since there are 2 modes that you can use. Another is JMS Mustang PedalMAX from Steeda site and Steeda is reputable dealer to advertise such a product. At the very least I can take these back if they are not for me. http://www.sprintbooster.com/menu.asp?menu=2&submenu=6

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For anyone who drives a stick..........interesting video of how to drive a clutch..........or not.

Always interested in techniques of course from other drivers. I just learned the basics and went with that.
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Old 08-21-2015, 09:32 PM   #22
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I've looked a lot into hardware products that increase the signal to the tps. I think they all essentially function the same as far as only dealing with the tps signal and do not interfere with tunes at all. So far I think the best one for me at least is Sprint Booster since there are 2 modes that you can use. Another is JMS Mustang PedalMAX from Steeda site. At the very least I can take these back if they are not for me.



Always interested in techniques of course from other drivers. I just learned the basics and went with that.
At least with my tuner I'm not a product like this would work as he does change the throttle position with the tune....part of the reason when I data log I must include the throttle position in the log.
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Old 08-21-2015, 09:53 PM   #23
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At least with my tuner I'm not a product like this would work as he does change the throttle position with the tune....part of the reason when I data log I must include the throttle position in the log.
So that tps delay can be eliminated via tune? I emailed bama and addressed this tps delay, they sent out a new tune to me but felt it was the same so I am just going to use the sprint booster and see what happens. I was hesitate at first to even remap ecu for risk of warranty but car is still fine lol and the tune did do a world of difference just not completely in my opinion and feel there is still conservative.
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Old 08-21-2015, 10:08 PM   #24
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So that tps delay can be eliminated via tune? I emailed bama and addressed this tps delay, they sent out a new tune to me but felt it was the same so I am just going to use the sprint booster and see what happens. I was hesitate at first to even remap ecu for risk of warranty but car is still fine lol and the tune did do a world of difference just not completely in my opinion and feel there is still conservative.
So, what was the position when you data log'd?
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Old 08-21-2015, 10:11 PM   #25
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So, what was the position when you data log'd?
I do not know because I never data logged. I guess I will have to now. Will refer to this tomorrow https://support.bamaperformance.com/...og-my-vehicle-
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Old 08-21-2015, 10:36 PM   #26
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I do not know because I never data logged. I guess I will have to now. Will refer to this tomorrow https://support.bamaperformance.com/...og-my-vehicle-
Without data logging your tuner really can't get a handle on whats going on with your specific car...............you really need to do this.
I really don't have any noticeable lag in my throttle response.
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Old 08-21-2015, 10:45 PM   #27
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Without data logging your tuner really can't get a handle on whats going on with your specific car...............you really need to do this.
I really don't have any noticeable lag in my throttle response.
Yes, my mistake. I did not realize just how important this is apparently.
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Old 08-27-2015, 05:58 PM   #28
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Without data logging your tuner really can't get a handle on whats going on with your specific car...............you really need to do this.
I really don't have any noticeable lag in my throttle response.
Did you analyze the datalogs yourself or a tuning specialist? I am in the process of running laptop, sct and livelink but having issues with livelink detecting sct device or ecm but I will get it, I'm an expert lol.
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Old 08-27-2015, 06:09 PM   #29
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Did you analyze the datalogs yourself or a tuning specialist? I am in the process of running laptop, sct and livelink.
You can certainly see what the motor is doing in the way of Knock, AFR, Timing, Temperature and 30 other things. My suggestion would be for you to work with a tuner that knows his way around a Coyote motor to write a program specifically for your Mustang.
I have tuned race motors for over 30+ years and I wouldn't even attempt to try tuning without the help of a tuning specialist.
I am still in the process of working with Advanced Engine Development in Sacramento, CA.
I also have a laptop, SCTX4 and Livelink.
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Old 08-28-2015, 03:18 PM   #30
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You can certainly see what the motor is doing in the way of Knock, AFR, Timing, Temperature and 30 other things. My suggestion would be for you to work with a tuner that knows his way around a Coyote motor to write a program specifically for your Mustang.
I have tuned race motors for over 30+ years and I wouldn't even attempt to try tuning without the help of a tuning specialist.
I am still in the process of working with Advanced Engine Development in Sacramento, CA.
I also have a laptop, SCTX4 and Livelink.
Incredible that you have been tuning for that long. Looks like I am speaking with the right guy! Bama tune specialists are working with me to get those datalog files. I'll see what the new tune can do or not do when I get it.

Question, can a tune alter the way a stick shift performs in any way?
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