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Old 09-04-2015, 11:24 AM   #1
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are relocation brackets necessary

Hello guys,
I'm new to this forum and recently bought a 2013 Mustang GT. I am currently going through the list of mods I am going to do and I have a question. I just ordered my rear lower control arms, adjustable panhard bar and the adjustable J&M caster camber plates. My question is, is the relocation brackets necessary for the lower control arm? What is the benefit, advantage? Thanks for the help guys
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Old 09-04-2015, 11:48 AM   #2
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Fixes the geometry of the rear suspension to help further launch the car forward.


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Old 09-04-2015, 11:51 AM   #3
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Only needed if you are lowered.

Didn't see lowering springs on your list. So if not they will not be needed.


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Old 09-04-2015, 11:59 AM   #4
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oops sorry, yes I forgot to post that I have also ordered the Eibach Prokit springs, so yes it will be slightly lowered
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Old 09-04-2015, 08:27 PM   #5
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Relo brackets fixed my wheel hop after I lowered my car.


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Old 09-04-2015, 08:36 PM   #6
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I've got adjustable LCA's, UCA, panhard bar along with Sportlines and have never put on relo brackets. I don't feel a need since the car handles to my liking as is.
Kind of like caster/camber plates....I've never used them as my alignment is perfect for my type of driving....no tires issues in over 7k miles.
When you start changing chassis components, try doing just one thing at a time..drive it and get a feel for the change, then change something else. At least this way if something doesn't feel right you know exactly what you did....replacing everything at once and something doesn't feel right you'll spend a long time chasing your tail.............IMHO
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Old 09-04-2015, 08:51 PM   #7
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Good advise. Thank you
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Old 09-04-2015, 09:07 PM   #8
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I agree with the advice above if you're strictly daily driving. If you frequent the track a few times a year, you're going to want relo's to correct the geometry of your LCA's because they WILL be out of whack for launching purposes.


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Old 09-04-2015, 10:58 PM   #9
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I almost forgot to say to the forum.
Also, when you lower the car center the rearend with your adjustable panhard bar..this will get you started in the right direction.

Don't mean to hijack the thread....any of you with relo brackets maybe you could post a picuture from the back of your car...I'd just like to see how close they come to the scrub line........it's something I've wondered about for awhile.
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Old 09-04-2015, 11:15 PM   #10
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Awful pic, but it's not like you can clearly see under there night or day. I put my headlights from my other car on it. They hang very low. I scrape on certain speed bumps.


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Old 09-04-2015, 11:55 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2014oxstang View Post
Attachment 190648

Awful pic, but it's not like you can clearly see under there night or day. I put my headlights from my other car on it. They hang very low. I scrape on certain speed bumps.


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Thanks for the picture.........guess it's raining back there also.
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Old 09-05-2015, 12:15 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by olerodder View Post
Thanks for the picture.........guess it's raining back there also.

Thankfully, it isn't. This picture was taken a few months ago. But I hope it was useful to you as a reference


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Old 09-05-2015, 05:40 AM   #13
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I would get them. As stated you will need to correct the geometry of your LCA.
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Old 09-05-2015, 10:26 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by Grabber Blue5.0 View Post
I would get them. As stated you will need to correct the geometry of your LCA.

Can't get a better shot than that ^


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Old 09-05-2015, 11:08 AM   #15
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Quote:
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Thankfully, it isn't. This picture was taken a few months ago. But I hope it was useful to you as a reference


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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grabber Blue5.0 View Post
I would get them. As stated you will need to correct the geometry of your LCA.
Thanks for the picture Grabber Blue5.0. I just didn't realize it was that far past the scrub line.
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Old 09-05-2015, 11:43 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by olerodder View Post
Thanks for the picture Grabber Blue5.0. I just didn't realize it was that far past the scrub line.

They sit pretty low, but it's manageable olerodder. I daily drive mine and I just stay away from the speed bumps I know I can't clear. Now if you live in a condo complex or living area with large speed bumps, you may have to reconsider the purchase of these.


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Old 09-05-2015, 12:06 PM   #17
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Mine never hit anything and I went over plenty of speed bumps. I think the only time someone would have an issue would be if they took their car through a car wash.
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Old 09-05-2015, 12:09 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2014oxstang View Post
They sit pretty low, but it's manageable olerodder. I daily drive mine and I just stay away from the speed bumps I know I can't clear. Now if you live in a condo complex or living area with large speed bumps, you may have to reconsider the purchase of these.


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I'm pretty satisfied with the way the Mustang handles although I am getting some adjustable sway bars which should help. Our house has a sharp peak in the driveway and I have enough trouble as is. I'm not sure that the car with the relo brackets would pass tech for a road coarse as they go past the scrub line which means if you loose a rear tire the relo bracket is going to to drag the pavement before the wheel.
Kind of funny that I had a street gasser back in the mid 70's and made something like a CalTrak setup......it hung down so low that I put metal casters on the leading edge so when I hit something it would "roll over it" rather than hit.....Funny I remembered that.
With the way I've pre-loaded the chassis I can bring the nose of car up during hard shifts and if I disconnected the front sway bar I'm pretty sure I could bring it up more...............for my application I don't see a need plus I don't care for something hanging below the scrub line.....just my 2 cents.
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Old 09-05-2015, 12:09 PM   #19
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are relocation brackets necessary

Quote:
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Mine never hit anything and I went over plenty of speed bumps. I think the only time someone would have an issue would be if they took their car through a car wash.

My buddies condo complex had small, but tall speed bumps and they scrape every single time no matter how I angled it. You just haven't found the right speed bump


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Old 09-05-2015, 12:28 PM   #20
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With a pro kit you wont need caster camber plates. Send that back and get lcas and relo brackets. After i lowered mine on the pro kit i had wheel hop out the *** until i did lca/relo


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Old 09-05-2015, 01:04 PM   #21
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are relocation brackets necessary

If you're hitting things with relocation brackets you're doing a terrible job driving. They sit adjacent the tires so when your rear tires go up so do the brackets.


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Old 09-05-2015, 01:21 PM   #22
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If you're hitting things with relocation brackets you're doing a terrible job driving. They sit adjacent the tires so when your rear tires go up so do the brackets.


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Lol yes, that must be it. Tell you what, next time I visit my pal I'll take a video just for you


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Old 09-05-2015, 01:31 PM   #23
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No adjustable upper control arm?
I lowered with Eibach/Roush springs and have no need for relo's.
It's not a huge project to put them on IF you decide after you need them.
That's my .02.
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Old 09-05-2015, 03:36 PM   #24
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The Geometry

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Old 09-05-2015, 03:54 PM   #25
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Lol yes, that must be it. Tell you what, next time I visit my pal I'll take a video just for you


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What are driving over? The only time I've ever hit my relocation bracket was when I went to auto bell while I was out of town and it hit their metal rollers that stuck up a good 6" to guide the wheels.


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Old 09-05-2015, 10:33 PM   #26
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What are driving over? The only time I've ever hit my relocation bracket was when I went to auto bell while I was out of town and it hit their metal rollers that stuck up a good 6" to guide the wheels.


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Like I said, it's the speed bumps in my buddies condo complex. They're small in length, but tall in height. And this isn't my first rodeo, I've driven plenty of lowered vehicles, I know the deal with angles. Scraping them on these particular speed bumps are unavoidable, and they're the only way into the complex. And if you think about it, there isn't much I could do about it besides backing up and over them because I angle my front wheels first obviously. Just something I have to deal with, but it happens, and that's my point.


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Old 09-07-2015, 03:18 PM   #27
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camp70. Simply put, you don't need relo brackets under normal circumstances.

But, when a car is lowered the LCAs are no longer parallel. They are higher at the axle mount and lower at the body mount. This means, under hard acceleration the back of the car gets pushed down (acceleration squat) and the wheels get pushed up, meaning, you loose traction and induce wheel hop. Relo brackets correct this by providing options for mounting LCAs either back to parallel or, better yet slightly lower at the axle side, which increases traction and reduces/eliminates wheel hop.

To relieve clearance issues, you could cut them off at the hole locations you don't plan on using.
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Old 09-07-2015, 03:27 PM   #28
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camp70. Simply put, you don't need relo brackets under normal circumstances.

But, when a car is lowered the LCAs are no longer parallel. They are higher at the axle mount and lower at the body mount. This means, under hard acceleration the back of the car gets pushed down (acceleration squat) and the wheels get pushed up, meaning, you loose traction and induce wheel hop. Relo brackets correct this by providing options for mounting LCAs either back to parallel or, better yet slightly lower at the axle side, which increases traction and reduces/eliminates wheel hop.

To relieve clearance issues, you could cut them off at the hole locations you don't plan on using.

Lol I tried not get off on a tangent, thank you. Very well put, and a great explanation as to why they may be significant to some people and others not so much.


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Old 09-07-2015, 04:19 PM   #29
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Just buy some and do it right. Mine don't bottom out on anything, ever!. They are so cheap in price and easy to install I don't see why one wouldn't do it.
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Old 09-07-2015, 07:05 PM   #30
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The relobrackets go up and down with the wheel so I'm not sure how they would have a chance to hit a speed bump.

Here is something that often gets over looked. When the car is lowered not only is the anti squat altered for forward traction, but also the roll steer.
Think of a skateboard how the rear wheels steer when you lean the board. That's what your rear end does as the body rolls.
Lowering your car will produce roll understeer. Relo brackets when adjusted properly puts this back into compliance.

So, Yes, they are necessary for lowered cars whether you drag race or not.
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Old 09-07-2015, 07:12 PM   #31
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The relobrackets go up and down with the wheel so I'm not sure how they would have a chance to hit a speed bump.
I was thinking the same thing. Can't figure out how they can scrape on a speed bump...but....

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Lol yes, that must be it. Tell you what, next time I visit my pal I'll take a video just for you
I'll just wait for the video. A picture (video) is worth a thousand words.
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Old 09-07-2015, 07:21 PM   #32
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I was thinking the same thing. Can't figure out how they can scrape on a speed bump...but....







I'll just wait for the video. A picture (video) is worth a thousand words.

I wouldn't hold your breath, could be a while lol.


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Old 09-07-2015, 07:29 PM   #33
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are relocation brackets necessary

And it's really quite simple as to why I scrape the brackets. The fact that this is still being talked about is ridiculous lol. As my back passenger tire comes off of the speed bump as I am angling left (I've done it right as well) the bracket ever so slightly grazes these particularly tall speed bumps as the tire makes contact again with the pavement. It happens. Every single time. That's really the end of it lol. Anyone who's dropped 1.5" with relo's try taking a tall speed bump with them at an angle, tell me how it works out.


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Old 09-07-2015, 08:16 PM   #34
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And it's really quite simple as to why I scrape the brackets. The fact that this is still being talked about is ridiculous lol. As my back passenger tire comes off of the speed bump as I am angling left (I've done it right as well) the bracket ever so slightly grazes these particularly tall speed bumps as the tire makes contact again with the pavement. It happens. Every single time. That's really the end of it lol. Anyone who's dropped 1.5" with relo's try taking a tall speed bump with them at an angle, tell me how it works out.


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I'm not sure that it matters how much you are lowered since the relocation brackets are attached at the axle, not the body and it is the body that is lowered, not the axle. However, if your tire diameter is on the shorter side, I could see this happening since the axle, and the relocation brackets, will be closer to the ground. I will have to check this out the next time I run across tall speed bumps.
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Old 09-07-2015, 08:24 PM   #35
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275/40/19's out back. Believe me when I tell you, I'd rather not have them scrape lol. I'm not happy they scrape. Nonetheless, they scrape, albeit a very minuscule amount. I cry a little every time lol. He lives 3 towns over and since I lowered the car I don't frequent the area much.


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