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Old 09-24-2015, 08:12 PM   #1
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Control arms for 2011 GT

Hey Stangers, I need some input on upper/lower control arms. I'm having problems with the rear end kicking out while accelerating on the mountain roads, also the rear goes to the left during burn outs and at shift changes. My buddy says after market control arms will keep my car straight and help keep it in the road better. Is he correct? And what's the benefit of adj control arms.....
They are a lot more expensive. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, RR

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Old 09-28-2015, 07:40 PM   #2
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Lower and upper control arms will help. Relocating lower control arm brackets will help as well

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Old 09-28-2015, 07:57 PM   #3
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Unless you're racing I don't feel the adjustable lowers are necessary. I did an adjustable upper so that the pinion angle could be correctly adjusted as I lowered my car as well. If you're going to do suspension mods, I'd recommend doing it all in one shot to minimize the time/cost.
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Old 09-29-2015, 09:21 PM   #4
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Thanks Zac11GT and DeJoe8

I finally got to a mustang mechanic and got a few answers. Thanks for the input on the control arms. I wanted to lower my '11 GTCS make it handle the curvy mountain roads better and hook up better, especially straightening the pull to the left during burn outs and shift changes, at WOT throttle she will jump in the next lane at 2nd gear change. I have a automatic and I'm running BAMA V2 93race tune. The 93performance tune is not quite as aggressive on the shift changes but I really like the race tune shift and throttle response over the perf tune. I've got a set of lower arm relocation brackets coming, DeJoe8 can you tell me a little more about pinion angle adj on the upper arms. I've changed sway bars, shocks, springs and adj panhard bar with the relocation brackets coming. That's the first thing I've hard about a pinion angle....thanks
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Old 09-30-2015, 09:28 AM   #5
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Lowering your car will certainly help carving those corners and getting the chassis setup the way you like can take a little work.
When you lower the car you really need to replace the OE struts/shocks with something like Koni or Bilsten. Please don't try and change everything at once as you may have an issue and you will spend a lot of time chasing your tail to alleviate what's not to your liking.
When you lower your car you bring the body down...when you do this you are shifting the body one way or the other...a very good reason to have an adjustable pan hard so you can center the body/rear end. The same with the pinion angle, when you lower the car since the middle U joint is attached to the body you are changing the angle and also the pinion angle. When you lower the car you should put it on a four post lift and measure the transmission tailshaft angle, angle of the rear driveshaft and pinion angle. Actually if you could measure the angles before you lowered the car and after this would give you a very good indication of how much if any you should change the pinion angle with an adjustable UCA. You can look at some of the past discussions on this site to find out how to measure the angles and what angles you should shoot for. I changed to a 1 piece driveshaft because I was tired of the clunking and two piece design...that's another story.
I'm not running relocation brackets and for my car I don't feel the need and with my setup the car hooks hard...yes it has tire spin and minimal drift when shifting...carving corners at 120 plus isn't an issue...I have a 6spd.
Spend some time a looking at some of the past posts regarding driveline angle and LCA's/UCA's.
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