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Old 10-24-2015, 12:00 PM   #1
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Good brake setup for non track GT

hey everyone, wanna get rid of my OE non track brakes
what does everyone recommend for a good value?
used brembo setup or slotted/drilled set?
thanks in advance
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Old 10-24-2015, 03:13 PM   #2
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Used brembos can go for 600-700. I got a nice set with a good amount of pads left from a 2012 gt500 for 650 shipped on svtperformance


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Old 10-24-2015, 03:51 PM   #3
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Used brembos can go for 600-700. I got a nice set with a good amount of pads left from a 2012 gt500 for 650 shipped on svtperformance


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Awesome that's a steal I'll hafta keep my eyes open for that
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Old 10-24-2015, 03:52 PM   #4
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Slotted/drilled rotors are stupid. Just go with used Brembos and use some good track pads.
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Old 10-24-2015, 04:22 PM   #5
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Lol what a helpful response
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Old 10-24-2015, 05:24 PM   #6
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Very helpful .
Slots are good especially when your brakes are cold and you have to hit them hard. They let you off gas the cold pads. Not necessary on track cause they are already hot.
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Old 10-24-2015, 05:30 PM   #7
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Go look at the other thread that's going on now showing how to put on 2015 4 piston Ford "Brembos" you can order them from ford or pick you up a set off EBay for very cheap. Far cheaper then 11-14 Brembo take offs.


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Old 10-24-2015, 05:55 PM   #8
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Lol what a helpful response
Well it's proven that basically the only thing slotted/drilled rotors do is make your brakes look fancy. Do they help with heat dissipation? No, they make it worse because it removes chunks of metal in the rotor that could be absorbing and then dissipating heat. In addition, the holes/slots reduce surface area that could be in contact with the pads. Do they "off gas?" No, because most modern brake pads don't produce gas. And if they do, is that negligible gain worth the reduction in rotor surface area and heat dissipation? I would say no. Do they reduce rotor temperatures? Yeah they usually do, but at the expense of increased braking distance, so what's the point?

Ever wondered why F1 cars don't use drilled/slotted rotors? Because they don't perform as good as blanks. You might see some Porshe and Ferrari race cars with these type of rotors, but they're usually higher end and are actually cast in that exact shape when they're made instead of altering a blank rotor. So if you're going to get them, get the ones that are cast with the holes and/or slots from the beginning. But like I said before, if F1 cars are using blanks, why not just use the stock Brembos from Ford?

Was that "helpful" enough?
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Old 10-24-2015, 06:11 PM   #9
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Was that "helpful" enough?
Actually it was and I appreciate u taking the computer away from the 4 year old who replied for you earlier
I have experienced a cracked slotted and drilled when a caliper seized and caused it to super heat and shear after going through a puddle
Was just looking for sound advice as you've just provided, not;
"They are stupid"
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Old 10-24-2015, 06:18 PM   #10
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Actually it was and I appreciate u taking the computer away from the 4 year old who replied for you earlier
I have experienced a cracked slotted and drilled when a caliper seized and caused it to super heat and shear after going through a puddle
Was just looking for sound advice as you've just provided, not;
"They are stupid"
But the response aligned with another user's post and led to the same recommendation, so was it really unhelpful that there wasn't any elaboration on the route that you shouldn't take? I guess I assumed since the consensus among pretty much everyone on this board would be "go with Brembos," there didn't need to much explanation for the alternatives.
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Old 10-25-2015, 11:51 AM   #11
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You definitely need to check all sources for new or used brakes to get best deal. Tasca and others will sell new pretty cheap, but SVT Performance and eBay good sources. 14in 4 piston brembos that were on gt500 through 2012 and track Pac cars are very good brakes for most. Last I saw, 2015 with performance package had 14in 6 piston brembos. OBTW 2013/14 gt500 had 15 in 6 piston brembos up front and 13.8 in rotors with stock calipers in rear.
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Old 10-25-2015, 03:50 PM   #12
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Not sure i agree with a lot of what is being said in here.

1. moving to a big brake kit will give you zero improvement in braking power. Got it? Zilch. The point of a big brake kit is for higher heat retention when racing. If you're not racing, you don't need big brakes.

2. If you want more braking power, you need better tires, pads, and rotors, in that order. Tires are the only thing making contact with the ground, if you have badass 6 piston calipers on 15" rotors and the stock 235 tires you're not going to stop any better than stock... Secondly, whatever mechanical advantage you gain by moving to a larger rotor pales in comparison to just moving up to a pad with a higher coefficient of friction. A good pad will tear your face off, even on stock 13.2" rotors. I was running carbotech xp-10s on my mustang when i was tracking it - a track pad, not recommended for the street - and i could kick the ABS on with 295 NT-05s at all 4 corners. What this means is i still had way more brake than i did tire, even on stock 13.2" rotors. Lastly, a premium blank rotor is the best thing you can get. Drilled rotors are 100% rice (dont get me wrong, they look cool, but not helpful at all). Also, slotted rotors are meant for racing, they continuously scrape the pad surface to prevent them from getting glazed due to over heating. Has nothing to do with out gassing, or whatever the mumbo jumbo people say it is. Its just to keep a fresh pad surface.

If you want stopping power you just need to look into 4 things, in this order:
Good tires
A good pad
Good DOT4 fluid
a good rotor.

Those are the order of importance for stopping power.
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Old 10-25-2015, 04:01 PM   #13
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Not sure i agree with a lot of what is being said in here.

1. moving to a big brake kit will give you zero improvement in braking power. Got it? Zilch. The point of a big brake kit is for higher heat retention when racing. If you're not racing, you don't need big brakes.

2. If you want more braking power, you need better tires, pads, and rotors, in that order. Tires are the only thing making contact with the ground, if you have badass 6 piston calipers on 15" rotors and the stock 235 tires you're not going to stop any better than stock... Secondly, whatever mechanical advantage you gain by moving to a larger rotor pales in comparison to just moving up to a pad with a higher coefficient of friction. A good pad will tear your face off, even on stock 13.2" rotors. I was running carbotech xp-10s on my mustang when i was tracking it - a track pad, not recommended for the street - and i could kick the ABS on with 295 NT-05s at all 4 corners. What this means is i still had way more brake than i did tire, even on stock 13.2" rotors. Lastly, a premium blank rotor is the best thing you can get. Drilled rotors are 100% rice (dont get me wrong, they look cool, but not helpful at all). Also, slotted rotors are meant for racing, they continuously scrape the pad surface to prevent them from getting glazed due to over heating. Has nothing to do with out gassing, or whatever the mumbo jumbo people say it is. Its just to keep a fresh pad surface.

If you want stopping power you just need to look into 4 things, in this order:
Good tires
A good pad
Good DOT4 fluid
a good rotor.

Those are the order of importance for stopping power.
Thank you volt awesome write up
So let's say then I keep my factory calipers, what would you recommend for pads With good stopping power for daily street use
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Old 10-25-2015, 04:05 PM   #14
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I am partial to carbotech, i would recommend looking into their 1521 street compound, or if you want something a little more aggressive look into the autocross Ax6 pad.

You have to be careful running a "race" pad on the street for several reasons, including the fact that they have a MINIMUM operating temperature that they wont stop very well if they're under, and if they're cold they can really chew up a set of rotors. The 1521 is my recommendation, but i threw the Ax6 out there just to give you some perspective.
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Old 10-25-2015, 04:11 PM   #15
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I am partial to carbotech, i would recommend looking into their 1521 street compound, or if you want something a little more aggressive look into the autocross Ax6 pad.

You have to be careful running a "race" pad on the street for several reasons, including the fact that they have a MINIMUM operating temperature that they wont stop very well if they're under, and if they're cold they can really chew up a set of rotors. The 1521 is my recommendation, but i threw the Ax6 out there just to give you some perspective.

Perfect. 1521's it is thank you. Would you say it's ok to run on factory rotors or do you advise going up a size or particular brand
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Old 10-25-2015, 04:15 PM   #16
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Perfect. 1521's it is thank you. Would you say it's ok to run on factory rotors or do you advise going up a size or particular brand
Factory rotors are fine, but i personally prefer Centric rotors. Just good a quality blank rotor and you'll be set.
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Old 10-25-2015, 04:29 PM   #17
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Damn! Volt beat me to it. I was going to say the same thing: Carbotech 1521 pads and Centric rotors whenever you decide to replace those. Volt knows his stuff
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Old 10-25-2015, 04:39 PM   #18
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Agree you don't need to get fancy on the street, but there is a noticeable difference between a base gt and a trackpac/brembo car. So depending on what you can get the 14in brembo for, it might be worth it. Bigger brakes not only reduce heat, but also provide more clamping force.
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Old 10-25-2015, 04:54 PM   #19
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a 15 YO corrola provides enuf stopping force to lock up tires...it's the tires in a non-track situation that is what matters (but looks/braggin right can count)

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Old 10-25-2015, 04:55 PM   #20
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oh yeah, when I drove a buddys Brembo GT butt dyno said touchier but same stopping distance (both cars on Summer only Pirellis) I will say Fintle complained about glazing pads on one of the cruises...idk how and it ain't my fault.
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Old 10-25-2015, 05:12 PM   #21
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oh yeah, when I drove a buddys Brembo GT butt dyno said touchier but same stopping distance (both cars on Summer only Pirellis) I will say Fintle complained about glazing pads on one of the cruises...idk how and it ain't my fault.
Ya looks like for my application to start with pads/rotors would be best start
Thanks everyone question definitely answered
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Old 10-26-2015, 02:09 PM   #22
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oh yeah, when I drove a buddys Brembo GT butt dyno said touchier but same stopping distance (both cars on Summer only Pirellis) I will say Fintle complained about glazing pads on one of the cruises...idk how and it ain't my fault.
I prefer highly "touchy" brakes. I hate the fact that my stock base GT brakes don't seem to do anything at all until well over 1/4 pedal travel. They require a second pump to get them up to where almost any stock car would be for pedal travel on just normal street braking.

Heck the AWD fusion I just picked up has much better brake feel (I define "feel as the combo of short pedal travel and relatively low pedal force, for a decent amount of deceleration).

If my actual braking threshold is no better, but the brakes just feel better to me, worth every penny.
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Old 10-26-2015, 03:50 PM   #23
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I prefer highly "touchy" brakes. I hate the fact that my stock base GT brakes don't seem to do anything at all until well over 1/4 pedal travel. They require a second pump to get them up to where almost any stock car would be for pedal travel on just normal street braking.

Heck the AWD fusion I just picked up has much better brake feel (I define "feel as the combo of short pedal travel and relatively low pedal force, for a decent amount of deceleration).

If my actual braking threshold is no better, but the brakes just feel better to me, worth every penny.
How many miles on the car / What pads are you running?

If over like 30-40k miles and you've never bled the brakes and are running stock or stock-esque pads, that's your problem right there. I also think a lot of people get confused on a BBK since 9/10 times stainless steel lines go in at the same time. the level of modulation available depends on a lot of things.
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Old 10-26-2015, 04:12 PM   #24
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I did find it only took a bit to get used to the Brembo's....as to what I prefer I THINK it's the non touchy but admit to being an oaf.
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Old 10-26-2015, 07:42 PM   #25
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Appreciate all of the feedback
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Old 10-27-2015, 05:46 AM   #26
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How many miles on the car / What pads are you running?

If over like 30-40k miles and you've never bled the brakes and are running stock or stock-esque pads, that's your problem right there. I also think a lot of people get confused on a BBK since 9/10 times stainless steel lines go in at the same time. the level of modulation available depends on a lot of things.
4500 so far. That is what I thought, bleeding. Took it to 2 different dealers and they of course say everything if fine. I drove other base GT's before I bought mine, but I don't recall if they were the same way. Hard to judge when driving your first coyotes ever for 5-6 miles @ less than 50 MPH.

Not worried about getting what I want. Supposedly going Brembo fronts on a non brembo car makes many claim it is touchy and some swap out booster (GT500??) for less "boost".

GT500 brake booster on GT

If that is the case (which does not make sense, as larger calipers should increase pedal travel if anything, but don't shoot the messenger), that is fine with me. Theory I think was that brembo calipers are much stiffer and don't flex as much, hence the increased pedal feel (or shorter travel).

I prefer big boosters (or hydroboost, obviously not possible on coyotes) combined with big masters for short travel grabby brakes. Maybe I'd hate it on a road course. If I ever get to one, it won't be with this lumbering pig, when I also have an EVO in the garage.
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Old 10-27-2015, 09:13 AM   #27
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Correct, the brembos dont actually flex at all, perks of a fixed caliper (doesnt have sliders, has two sets of opposing pistons) vs the stock floating caliper (pistons on one side with sliders). You can cause movement in the stock calipers with your hands, let alone hard braking.
By no means am i talking down the Brembos, if it were up to me i'd have them on my 5.0, but i was successfully tracking the stock brakes - just want to make sure people understand what they are getting and what they are paying for.
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Old 10-27-2015, 02:37 PM   #28
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Correct, the brembos dont actually flex at all, perks of a fixed caliper (doesnt have sliders, has two sets of opposing pistons) vs the stock floating caliper (pistons on one side with sliders). You can cause movement in the stock calipers with your hands, let alone hard braking.
By no means am i talking down the Brembos, if it were up to me i'd have them on my 5.0, but i was successfully tracking the stock brakes - just want to make sure people understand what they are getting and what they are paying for.
Pretty sad on the part of the base GT (fords top performance car, even if in base trim) calipers that they are that "flexy" that even increasing caliper piston area (assuming), you still can have less pedal travel/increased "feel".

Surprised you did not upgrade just to remove caliper flex from the equation, since racing. I guess the flex was/is consistent at least.
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Old 10-27-2015, 02:56 PM   #29
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Pretty sad on the part of the base GT (fords top performance car, even if in base trim) calipers that they are that "flexy" that even increasing caliper piston area (assuming), you still can have less pedal travel/increased "feel".

Surprised you did not upgrade just to remove caliper flex from the equation, since racing. I guess the flex was/is consistent at least.
It just wasnt in the budget haha. Honestly, the biggest advantage of a fixed caliper is even pad wear, but the 2 pistons on the stock calipers are actually positioned pretty well, i never had funky pad wear. Really i needed the 14" for heat dissipation, but i never had modulation or stopping power problems.
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Old 10-27-2015, 03:23 PM   #30
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It just wasnt in the budget haha. Honestly, the biggest advantage of a fixed caliper is even pad wear, but the 2 pistons on the stock calipers are actually positioned pretty well, i never had funky pad wear. Really i needed the 14" for heat dissipation, but i never had modulation or stopping power problems.
Makes sense. Looking forward to my warrantee expiration so I can start to play, which "unfortunately" is 2 years off still.
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Old 10-27-2015, 07:26 PM   #31
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Ehh "warranty" lol. Just grab a pair of used 14in brembos and get some nice pads. That's a good starting point IMO


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