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Old 10-25-2015, 08:24 PM   #1
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Suspension help

Hey guys, I've been looking into getting control arms both lower and upper just not at the same time. So which ones would be better to get first. Also don't know whether I need to get adjustable or nonadjustable. My car is not lowered but I know I want to in the future. Thanks guys!


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Old 10-25-2015, 09:38 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by Black302Alex View Post
Hey guys, I've been looking into getting control arms both lower and upper just not at the same time. So which ones would be better to get first. Also don't know whether I need to get adjustable or nonadjustable. My car is not lowered but I know I want to in the future. Thanks guys!


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Let me venture a guess on the responses.
Most will say LCA'S first. Non-adjustable as most seem to use the UCA for adjustment of the pinion angle when needed after doing certain suspension mods and sometimes when replacing the driveshaft with a one piece.
An adjustable UCA would be when or after you lowered it.
Some knowledgeable individuals recommend adjustable LCA's for a couple of different reasons.
I won't say any more at this point but will wait to see what we get for comments on this interesting subject.
(My knowledge on the subject is only from what I've read while many here have practical knowledge.)
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Old 10-27-2015, 10:59 PM   #3
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This subject is covered a lot and truthfully I'm not sure there is a right or wrong answer...just depends on what the intended purpose of the car is.
First, what mod's have you done to the car and I assume it's an automatic?
If you haven't lowered it yet I'd probably leave it as it is....once you lower it LCA's and an adjustable UCA along with either a new GT500 or BMR poly carrier bushing will do wonders to the car.
Unless you are going to be tracking the car an know about suspensions and how to set them up I'd probably go with non-adjustable LCA's and adjustable UCA with the new carrier bushings....but not until you lower the car.
The reason I say to change the carrier bushing is that every newer Mustang I've help lower plus my own 10,300 mile 14 TrakPak.....the carrier bushings are cracking and splitting as the amount of twisting and movement is just too much for the rubber OE bushing. Take it to a Ford dealer and they will just say that it's normal and is not going to hurt anything.....it's interesting that most new cars with rubber bushings have the same problem....my wifes 2009 Toyota Venza did the same although the dealer checked the condition everytime it came in for an oil change and at 50k miles they replaced the front CA's.
Hope this helps.
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Old 10-28-2015, 09:11 AM   #4
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At 150-200$ for LCA's do they make a big difference in wheel hop and overall control?
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Old 10-28-2015, 11:50 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by 2013GTpremium View Post
At 150-200$ for LCA's do they make a big difference in wheel hop and overall control?
Worth every penny and then some. It's a night and day difference.

I went with the J&M Extreme Joint LCA's.
J&M Extreme Joint Mustang Lower Control Arms 23942B (05-14 All) - Free Shipping

I highly recommend them.

I also had these welded in at the same time:
http://www.steeda.com/steeda-mustang...race-555-5551/

They reinforce the LCA mounting point as well as tie together the inner/outer frame rails.
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Old 10-28-2015, 05:06 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by olerodder View Post
This subject is covered a lot and truthfully I'm not sure there is a right or wrong answer...just depends on what the intended purpose of the car is.
First, what mod's have you done to the car and I assume it's an automatic?
If you haven't lowered it yet I'd probably leave it as it is....once you lower it LCA's and an adjustable UCA along with either a new GT500 or BMR poly carrier bushing will do wonders to the car.
Unless you are going to be tracking the car an know about suspensions and how to set them up I'd probably go with non-adjustable LCA's and adjustable UCA with the new carrier bushings....but not until you lower the car.
The reason I say to change the carrier bushing is that every newer Mustang I've help lower plus my own 10,300 mile 14 TrakPak.....the carrier bushings are cracking and splitting as the amount of twisting and movement is just too much for the rubber OE bushing. Take it to a Ford dealer and they will just say that it's normal and is not going to hurt anything.....it's interesting that most new cars with rubber bushings have the same problem....my wifes 2009 Toyota Venza did the same although the dealer checked the condition everytime it came in for an oil change and at 50k miles they replaced the front CA's.
Hope this helps.
I was hoping you'd chime in on this. Your response further clarified the last time I questioned the use of Adjustable LCA's with Adj UCA's.
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Old 10-28-2015, 08:22 PM   #7
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I put lcas on first. Lowering it now, currently putting uca in.


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Old 10-28-2015, 09:44 PM   #8
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Are you still working on it?
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Old 10-28-2015, 11:14 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by TCopp View Post
I put lcas on first. Lowering it now, currently putting uca in.


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Don't forget to replace the OE carrier bushing....this will make a huge difference!
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Old 10-28-2015, 11:26 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by 2013GTpremium View Post
At 150-200$ for LCA's do they make a big difference in wheel hop and overall control?
What I'm going to say is the way I should have done my suspension...although I was just ran out of time so I put the UCA/Carrier bushing/LCA's in all at once. I believe that if you used an adjustable UCA and put in a Poly Carrier bushing you would cure 80% of wheel hop. I'm sure everyone understands what causes wheel hop...the suspension moving.....tires loosing traction then catching traction...this is repeated many times a second...........anyway the UCA and the carrier bushing are the two suspension pieces on our late model Mustang that take the most abuse....and wear out the fastest. Mine were toast at less than 7000 miles.......and were a major cause of the clunking in the rearend with the 2 piece driveline.
So, with that said I would replace the UCA/carrier bushing and then the LCA's. Unless you are going to be drag racing with slicks there is really no need to put supports for the torque boxes......the boxes are plenty strong for normal spirited driving.......
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Old 10-28-2015, 11:30 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diehard View Post
I was hoping you'd chime in on this. Your response further clarified the last time I questioned the use of Adjustable LCA's with Adj UCA's.
Yes, if you are a novice at suspension I'd suggest going with an adjustable UCA and Poly (BMR) or GT500 OE style carrier bushing.......for me from now on it will be mandatory to any of my friends when I help them setup rear suspensions on the newer Mustangs...I feel that strongly about it!!!...and just going with non-adjustable LCA's.
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Old 10-29-2015, 04:12 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olerodder View Post
This subject is covered a lot and truthfully I'm not sure there is a right or wrong answer...just depends on what the intended purpose of the car is.

First, what mod's have you done to the car and I assume it's an automatic?

If you haven't lowered it yet I'd probably leave it as it is....once you lower it LCA's and an adjustable UCA along with either a new GT500 or BMR poly carrier bushing will do wonders to the car.

Unless you are going to be tracking the car an know about suspensions and how to set them up I'd probably go with non-adjustable LCA's and adjustable UCA with the new carrier bushings....but not until you lower the car.

The reason I say to change the carrier bushing is that every newer Mustang I've help lower plus my own 10,300 mile 14 TrakPak.....the carrier bushings are cracking and splitting as the amount of twisting and movement is just too much for the rubber OE bushing. Take it to a Ford dealer and they will just say that it's normal and is not going to hurt anything.....it's interesting that most new cars with rubber bushings have the same problem....my wifes 2009 Toyota Venza did the same although the dealer checked the condition everytime it came in for an oil change and at 50k miles they replaced the front CA's.

Hope this helps.


Currently mods I have right now are just o/r h pipe with Borla S types.
It is manual with the blow fish racing bracket.
Nothing much done currently as I recently enlisted in the military so I've been away from my car for a bit.
It's daily driven and but do the occasional pull with my buddies.
I just ask because I absolutely hate the wheel hop lol


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Old 10-29-2015, 04:24 AM   #13
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So my question would be. Should I get nonadjustable Lca?


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Old 10-29-2015, 08:52 AM   #14
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Yes
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Old 10-29-2015, 04:16 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by olerodder View Post
Yes

Thank you!
Would I need adjustable LCA if I went lower? Or just adjustable UCA and relo brackets?


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Old 10-29-2015, 04:44 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thelastsumurai View Post
Are you still working on it?

Yes.


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---------- Post added at 04:43 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:42 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by olerodder View Post
Don't forget to replace the OE carrier bushing....this will make a huge difference!

Hmm. Ok. You're the first person to recommend this, I'll look into it.


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---------- Post added at 04:44 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:43 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Black302Alex View Post
Thank you!
Would I need adjustable LCA if I went lower? Or just adjustable UCA and relo brackets?


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UCA and relos.


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Old 10-29-2015, 05:41 PM   #17
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Changing out the carrier bushing was....fun

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Old 10-29-2015, 07:04 PM   #18
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UCA in Action

Found and copied the following from a 2 year old post on another forum.

OEM UCA shows wheel hop and movement at worn bushing.


After installing new BMR UCA - Better but still having problems.


Moved the upper control arm to the bottom position on the mount and reset pinion angle, again. Wheel hop is completely gone.
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Old 10-29-2015, 07:44 PM   #19
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Soooo, should I put the uca in the lower hole instead?


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Old 10-30-2015, 09:46 AM   #20
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Soooo, should I put the uca in the lower hole instead?


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Well with my limited experience(reading up on it), that's the first time I've seen a mention of that.
But it seems to me, if you have a bracket with 2 holes you'd start with the one that most closely represents the original location unless instruction say otherwise.
If you continue to have wheel hop you could try the other position.
I did find this..."If you want more "HIT" to the tires then Raise the rear UCA bolt to increase Anti-Squat.
If you want a longer and lower Instant Center then Lower the rear UCA bolt to decrease Anti-squat."

But being a novice, I don't fully get it.
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Old 10-30-2015, 04:58 PM   #21
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really learned a lot
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Old 11-02-2015, 09:25 AM   #22
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One more comment then I'm done...if you you look at the last Utube video with the BMR UCA...notice how when the car is under torque you see a gap between the front bushing and the UCA...with a BMR carrier bushing there is about 75% less for and aft movement of the UCA under torque....
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Old 11-02-2015, 11:02 AM   #23
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This guy has a really good write up on LCA's.

cherod.com/mustang - LCAs



Also, check out the thread over here for discussion on LCA's:
Any Body Runnin The J&m Lower Control Arms From American Muscle | Mustang Forums at StangNet

There is a J&M rep that answered some questions.
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Old 11-11-2015, 11:06 AM   #24
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Well with my limited experience(reading up on it), that's the first time I've seen a mention of that.
But it seems to me, if you have a bracket with 2 holes you'd start with the one that most closely represents the original location unless instruction say otherwise.
If you continue to have wheel hop you could try the other position.
I did find this..."If you want more "HIT" to the tires then Raise the rear UCA bolt to increase Anti-Squat.
If you want a longer and lower Instant Center then Lower the rear UCA bolt to decrease Anti-squat."

But being a novice, I don't fully get it.
Dropping the forward UCA mounting bolt will shorten IC and decrease %AS, meaning the car will squat more and will squat faster.

Moving the UCA bolt up will increase %AS and lengthen IC, causing the car to squat less or push the axle down more, and it will take a longer time to do it.

Having a longer IC with higher %AS is more stable and less shocking to the tires than having a short IC with low %AS.
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Old 11-11-2015, 03:15 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by BMR Suspension View Post
Dropping the forward UCA mounting bolt will shorten IC and decrease %AS, meaning the car will squat more and will squat faster.

Moving the UCA bolt up will increase %AS and lengthen IC, causing the car to squat less or push the axle down more, and it will take a longer time to do it.

Having a longer IC with higher %AS is more stable and less shocking to the tires than having a short IC with low %AS.
Thanks very much for the explanation. I think I'm starting to get it.
Not sure if this is a legitimate question but...which hole position, would you say, more closely represents the stock bracket hole location?
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