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Old 11-04-2015, 09:52 PM   #1
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Best lowering springs?

I am torn between SR performance lowering springs and Steeda sport springs. Read all around and both seem like a very good product. This is my DD so ride quality is a must for me. Getting just the springs. So what do you guys think? Thanks!
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Old 11-04-2015, 09:59 PM   #2
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Without any experience I would say Steeda>SR.

Steeda is very high quality.

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Old 11-05-2015, 03:41 AM   #3
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Old 11-05-2015, 03:46 AM   #4
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Listen to him ^

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Old 11-05-2015, 04:07 AM   #5
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Once you lower the car, it is tough (if not impossible) to maintain the same "ride quality" as the stock springs. Now ride quality is a relative term. To me, "ride quality" means that the car stays flat in the curves and during hard braking. It means that it instills a feeling of confidence when running the twisties. To others it means that the car has a soft ride and absorbs just about every bump in the road. To me, the car did not have the "ride quality" I was looking for so I modded the suspension. When you lower the car, there is not as much travel in the springs so you lose some softness in the ride. That certainly is the case in my car but the ride is not what I would call harsh, just not as soft as stock. I think it is perfect. My wife (who never drives it but is sometimes a passenger) is not a fan of the new suspension.

My mods are in my sig, and as you can see I went with the Steeda Sports. There are different thoughts on springs only vs springs/struts/shocks. Some will say that you can get away with springs only and others will say that your shocks cannot handle the lowered springs and will bottom out and eventually fail. I am of the opinion that if you are going to do it, you should do it once and replace the shocks and struts along with the springs (if the finances allow). At a minimum, you will probably also need a panhard bar to recenter the rear wheels and a set of camber bolts to help with alignment. I recommend caster/camber plates instead of camber bolts as CC plates will give you far greater alignment adjustment. I am also not confident in the safety of camber bolts.
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Old 11-05-2015, 08:10 AM   #6
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You may want to consider the amount you want to lower, front and back.
Looks like Steeda typically lowers the rear 1/4" more than the front. Like 1"/1.25" or 1.25"/1.5" (F/R)

While SR has an even drop of 1.5"
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Old 11-05-2015, 08:13 AM   #7
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Yes, choosing the right lowering springs for you is more personal than just taking someones word because they bought XXXXXXXXXX springs and there were great or they totally suck.
It depends on how low you want to go and certainly doing it to a DD makes it even a harder choice...personally I've lowered a lot of cars/trucks/SUV's and non of them have been DD.
I have been using Eibach since the 90's and have never had any issues and there are people on the forum that have used both springs you've mentioned and personally I'd just say go with which ever one fits your pocket book.
Will the ride be firmer than what you have now...YES....if you were to buy struts and shocks that are made for a lowered car will it ride better than if you used your OE struts and shocks....Probably....is the ride quality better...that's up to you.
Whatever you do, DO NOT USE Caster/Camber BOLTS! They are much weaker than OE bolts and although many people have used them there is a chance they could fail....and for me that chance is not worth it.
As for Caster/Camber plates....if you are replacing your original struts and shocks I would say, yes go ahead and get them and if you are using your stock struts/strut mounts and shocks they are not needed, even with a 1.5" drop in front and 2" in the rear. I've helped lower 5 late model Mustangs including my 14 and non of the 5 needed any adjustment to stay within Ford Alignment Specs while using the OE struts/shocks. So, if you are just going to lower it 1" in the front and 1.5" in the rear and use your OE struts/shocks there is nothing you need to add....although if your car has more than 20k miles I'd buy a new set of strut mounts and put them in when you lower the car.
The pan hard bar was mentioned and before I'd run out and buy one measure your car now and if it's more than 1/8" different stock it will change when you lower it. Compared to replacing the springs putting in a pan hard bar is a walk in the park and can be done anytime....IMHO
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Old 11-05-2015, 11:57 AM   #8
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My personal opinion is lower 1" all around. Brands don't really matter THAT much on springs. Its just a basic part.

Just make sure you get the right type of spring for your application. (linear, progressive, ultralight, etc.)

I bought the Steeda 1" front & supposedly 1.25" rear, and the change after was closer to an inch less rake. The front's drop was a little less than 1" and the rear's drop was a little more than 1.25". This basically levelled the car, but I actually wanted some rake. In hindsight, I'd just get a 1" all around kit.
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Old 11-05-2015, 06:54 PM   #9
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What do you guys think about BMR lowering springs? I read that those were nice also.
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Old 11-05-2015, 07:21 PM   #10
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I run BMR springs. Great products.


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Old 11-05-2015, 07:24 PM   #11
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Old 11-05-2015, 07:30 PM   #12
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Old 11-05-2015, 09:25 PM   #13
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Good looking car man. How's the ride quality for you with those springs?
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Old 11-05-2015, 09:35 PM   #14
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Yes, choosing the right lowering springs for you is more personal than just taking someones word because they bought XXXXXXXXXX springs and there were great or they totally suck.
It depends on how low you want to go and certainly doing it to a DD makes it even a harder choice...personally I've lowered a lot of cars/trucks/SUV's and non of them have been DD.
I have been using Eibach since the 90's and have never had any issues and there are people on the forum that have used both springs you've mentioned and personally I'd just say go with which ever one fits your pocket book.
Will the ride be firmer than what you have now...YES....if you were to buy struts and shocks that are made for a lowered car will it ride better than if you used your OE struts and shocks....Probably....is the ride quality better...that's up to you.
Whatever you do, DO NOT USE Caster/Camber BOLTS! They are much weaker than OE bolts and although many people have used them there is a chance they could fail....and for me that chance is not worth it.
As for Caster/Camber plates....if you are replacing your original struts and shocks I would say, yes go ahead and get them and if you are using your stock struts/strut mounts and shocks they are not needed, even with a 1.5" drop in front and 2" in the rear. I've helped lower 5 late model Mustangs including my 14 and non of the 5 needed any adjustment to stay within Ford Alignment Specs while using the OE struts/shocks. So, if you are just going to lower it 1" in the front and 1.5" in the rear and use your OE struts/shocks there is nothing you need to add....although if your car has more than 20k miles I'd buy a new set of strut mounts and put them in when you lower the car.
The pan hard bar was mentioned and before I'd run out and buy one measure your car now and if it's more than 1/8" different stock it will change when you lower it. Compared to replacing the springs putting in a pan hard bar is a walk in the park and can be done anytime....IMHO
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Old 11-05-2015, 09:47 PM   #15
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I have the SR on my 14 GT, drop is nice but could be lower, after settling in theres still an inch and half gap between the tire and fender. As for ride quality, it definitely handled better, not as much squat when smashing and not as much nose dive when braking. Comfort wise, they take bumps better then stock in my opinion..no squeaks or anything. Just a clunk every now and then from the springs settling after not driving for a bit. For the price honestly they are really nice.
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Old 11-05-2015, 10:13 PM   #16
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Yes, choosing the right lowering springs for you is more personal than just taking someones word because they bought XXXXXXXXXX springs and there were great or they totally suck.
It depends on how low you want to go and certainly doing it to a DD makes it even a harder choice...personally I've lowered a lot of cars/trucks/SUV's and non of them have been DD.
I have been using Eibach since the 90's and have never had any issues and there are people on the forum that have used both springs you've mentioned and personally I'd just say go with which ever one fits your pocket book.
Will the ride be firmer than what you have now...YES....if you were to buy struts and shocks that are made for a lowered car will it ride better than if you used your OE struts and shocks....Probably....is the ride quality better...that's up to you.
Whatever you do, DO NOT USE Caster/Camber BOLTS! They are much weaker than OE bolts and although many people have used them there is a chance they could fail....and for me that chance is not worth it.
As for Caster/Camber plates....if you are replacing your original struts and shocks I would say, yes go ahead and get them and if you are using your stock struts/strut mounts and shocks they are not needed, even with a 1.5" drop in front and 2" in the rear. I've helped lower 5 late model Mustangs including my 14 and non of the 5 needed any adjustment to stay within Ford Alignment Specs while using the OE struts/shocks. So, if you are just going to lower it 1" in the front and 1.5" in the rear and use your OE struts/shocks there is nothing you need to add....although if your car has more than 20k miles I'd buy a new set of strut mounts and put them in when you lower the car.
The pan hard bar was mentioned and before I'd run out and buy one measure your car now and if it's more than 1/8" different stock it will change when you lower it. Compared to replacing the springs putting in a pan hard bar is a walk in the park and can be done anytime....IMHO
Thanks for the info! Really helped a lot. As for the strut mounts, all I can find are the Ford Racing ones and it says that they only fit the ford racing lowering springs and struts? Is that true? Because I cannot find any other strut mounts on the market.
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Old 11-05-2015, 10:15 PM   #17
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I am running Strange struts up front and and Viking shocks on the rear. The ride is great. I only ran for a short time on the the stock rear shocks maybe couple hundred miles so can't give much comment if your planing on using your stock Shocks/Struts for now. I installed the Strange struts when I installed the springs and I did not notice much difference then from stock ride. Maybe a bit firmer but nothing night and day. It gave me the exact stance I was looking for and overall couldn't be happier. Hugs the corners with less body roll as well but that wasn't my intention. My car is just a nice weather toy and is basically setup for some fun on the street or occasional track days.


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Old 11-05-2015, 10:17 PM   #18
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I am running Strange struts up front and and Viking shocks on the rear. The ride is great. I only ran for a short time on the the stock rear shocks maybe couple hundred miles so can't give much comment if your planing on using your stock Shocks/Struts for now. I installed the Strange struts when I installed the springs and I did not notice much difference then from stock ride. Maybe a bit firmer but nothing night and day. It gave me the exact stance I was looking for and overall couldn't be happier. Hugs the corners with less body roll as well but that wasn't my intention. My car is just a nice weather toy and is basically setup for some fun on the street or occasional track days.


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I plan on using my stock shocks and struts for a little while now. I'll go step by step and get the springs first to see how I like it. Then will continue on from there.
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Old 11-05-2015, 10:21 PM   #19
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I plan on using my stock shocks and struts for a little while now. I'll go step by step and get the springs first to see how I like it. Then will continue on from there.
I am also using stock shocks and struts. Have had the springs on for about 6k miles now and no problems. I drive the car atleast 100 miles everyday and it is comfortable even with my bald tires. You won't regret it. Just make sure to torque everything to stock specs, thats where most of the noises come from. You will also need a Panhard bar to adjust the axel.
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Old 11-05-2015, 10:23 PM   #20
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I am also using stock shocks and struts. Have had the springs on for about 6k miles now and no problems. I drive the car atleast 100 miles everyday and it is comfortable even with my bald tires. You won't regret it. Just make sure to torque everything to stock specs, thats where most of the noises come from. You will also need a Panhard bar to adjust the axel.
Alright, and what springs are you using?
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Old 11-05-2015, 10:25 PM   #21
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I am on SR performance springs.
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Old 11-05-2015, 10:26 PM   #22
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I am on SR performance springs.
Oh you posted above what springs you are using

my bad lol
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Old 11-05-2015, 10:29 PM   #23
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It's all good! Goodluck on the install! Just a tip, don't over tighten the front sway bar links...my friend used a impact gun to tighten it and when i started driving it was the most terrifying sound ever. Sounded like the wheels were about the fall off. Also, make sure when you are about to take the strut top off to take the springs off, take the top off carefully as one piece or the bearings will spill everywhere and you will get noises if they are not all in there.
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Old 11-05-2015, 10:31 PM   #24
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It's all good! Goodluck on the install! Just a tip, don't over tighten the front sway bar links...my friend used a impact gun to tighten it and when i started driving it was the most terrifying sound ever. Sounded like the wheels were about the fall off. Also, make sure when you are about to take the strut top off to take the springs off, take the top off carefully as one piece or the bearings will spill everywhere and you will get noises if they are not all in there.
Alright, thanks!!
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Old 11-05-2015, 10:34 PM   #25
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I used a BMR adjustable phb on mine. Read was off a tad under a 1/2" when I installed the springs. I bought all components before my install tho. Did my front struts and springs on all four corners. Following day I installed the PHB to square it up. Month later I did the rear shocks LCA's and adjustable UCA all BMR as well. As a package I love the stance and ride I got. Acceleration is greatly improved with 0 wheel hop as well.


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Old 11-06-2015, 11:01 AM   #26
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Old 11-06-2015, 11:54 AM   #27
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Thanks for the info! Really helped a lot. As for the strut mounts, all I can find are the Ford Racing ones and it says that they only fit the ford racing lowering springs and struts? Is that true? Because I cannot find any other strut mounts on the market.
Here are the stock strut mounts...I would strongly suggest not using your originals and the hardware. A lot of people have reused the hardware and as Ford says it is a one time use only. I replaced all the hardware I took off when installing the front and rear suspension with the exception of the rear panhard hardware and the when I retorqued the drivers side bolt I stripped it...again Ford does say the hardware is a single use/torque only.
Here is the part number for 14GT strut mount;

MOUNT BRACKET, LEFT for 2014 Ford Mustang|BR3Z-18183-D

This is probably the best place to buy OE parts for your Mustang and I have also bought the GT500 muffler/valance kit and other parts from these people as the prices are good and they have a large stock.
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Old 11-06-2015, 07:41 PM   #28
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You live in Ft. Lauderdale ... just come over to Pompano Beach & we will take care of you.

I extended the same offer on Mustang Source.

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Old 11-10-2015, 02:57 PM   #29
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Between the two, I would go STEEDA. From experience, I would go eibach pro-kit


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Old 11-10-2015, 03:58 PM   #30
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The right thing to do would be to BMR...


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Old 11-10-2015, 04:15 PM   #31
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My car is on SR springs and I've never had a problem with them. As long as they're not any generic eBay lowering springs the brand doesn't really matter.
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Old 11-10-2015, 04:50 PM   #32
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Just pick whatever drop gives you the look you like. 99% of the time thats all people care about. If its performance that you care about then you would be looking into the spring rates of each to see what is best for the overall set up.
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Old 11-10-2015, 09:02 PM   #33
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BMR.

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Old 11-10-2015, 09:08 PM   #34
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Old 11-11-2015, 10:29 AM   #35
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What qualities are most important to you in a spring?

If you're looking for a comfortable ride, I would recommend our SP009. They're 165 in/lb front and 160 in/lb rear spring, and are softer than most other springs on the market. If maintaining ride quality similar to OEM is important to you, these springs are an excellent choice. They'll also handle better than OEM since they're about 15% stiffer. They will also work well with stock shocks and struts until you decide it's time to upgrade.

If overall handling is more important and you don't mind sacrificing ride quality, then our handling springs would be what you want. Just bear in mind with stiffer spring rates, the ride will not be as nice until you upgrade shocks and struts. Our handling springs are 240 in/lb front and 200 in/lbs rear.

We put a lot of thought into our spring design to provide a variety of springs for a variety of needs.
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