Dumping the clutch on a coyote, what's the weak link? - Mustang Evolution

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Old 11-21-2015, 12:16 AM   #1
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Dumping the clutch on a coyote, what's the weak link?

Hey guys,

Thinking of going to the track soon. Right now the car has 305 Mickey Thompson DRs, BMR LCAs, Panhard Bar, etc and is putting down 613whp / 519wtq. Getting a E85 tune tomorrow which should put it close too 700whp. After that I'm putting in an aluminum drive shaft and McLeod RST clutch / flywheel. What would the weak link be if I was to dump the clutch at the track? Axles, tranny, etc...
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Old 11-21-2015, 12:25 AM   #2
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I'd be willing to say that if you have that kind of RWHP....and are still on the stock UCA and carrier bushing.....you won't be for long.
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Old 11-21-2015, 12:32 AM   #3
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Ok cool thanks I'll look into swapping those... What else?
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Old 11-21-2015, 02:09 AM   #4
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Axle shafts are going to twist right out of the rear end and if not that then you'll break the input shaft on the trans. I've witnessed both on just bolt on coyotes. So it's even more likely in your case.


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Old 11-21-2015, 02:25 AM   #5
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So instead of dumping the clutch, I should feather it more?
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Old 11-21-2015, 02:50 AM   #6
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You should be running a slick, not a drag radial. Axle shafts aren't going to like it.
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Old 11-21-2015, 06:38 AM   #7
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Unless you have a anti roll bar or some suspension work you aren't going to hook dumping the clutch anyways. My car is very similar to yours in that it makes a little over 650rwhp but I have an anti roll bar and shocks/springs. Even still i run a 295/55/15 and feather out from around 4k RPMS and then slam the gas. Usually I can get mid 1.50s 60ft this way which I consider pretty good for an occasional track car. I run strange axles however, and wouldn't try beating on the stock ones.


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Old 11-21-2015, 08:51 AM   #8
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I would assume that within short order your Torsen unit will take a dump with that kind of HP/TQ...when you change the axles I'd be changing the limited slip also.......yes this is an expensive unit and I consider the KAAZ to be one of the best in the world....KAAZ USA | Limited Slip Differential-Main Directory
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Old 11-21-2015, 10:39 AM   #9
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At that power level and on a drag radial, it could be a race between several things as to what breaks first. Axle tubes twisting if you hook it up would be my guess but, it's a crap shoot.

No cage, huh....? The track rules might be the first thing you break....
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Old 11-21-2015, 12:45 PM   #10
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This may be a dumb question but what is it about a drag radial that will break stuff before a slick would? I would think because a slick hooks more things would break easier.
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Old 11-21-2015, 12:57 PM   #11
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A radial has a stiffer, less forgiving carcass. The slick rolls up like a dishrag and slowly releases the force of impact over a longer duration, lessening the hammer-blow on the hard parts. It's a little tough on the clutch but, not much worse than the DR. Having used both on these cars, there is no way I'd go DR on a stick, especially with a power adder.
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Old 11-21-2015, 01:09 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5LHO View Post
A radial has a stiffer, less forgiving carcass. The slick rolls up like a dishrag and slowly releases the force of impact over a longer duration, lessening the hammer-blow on the hard parts. It's a little tough on the clutch but, not much worse than the DR. Having used both on these cars, there is no way I'd go DR on a stick, especially with a power adder.
Makes sense thank you!!!
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Old 11-21-2015, 02:45 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5LHO View Post
A radial has a stiffer, less forgiving carcass. The slick rolls up like a dishrag and slowly releases the force of impact over a longer duration, lessening the hammer-blow on the hard parts. It's a little tough on the clutch but, not much worse than the DR. Having used both on these cars, there is no way I'd go DR on a stick, especially with a power adder.
Couldn't have said it any better.
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