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Old 11-24-2015, 10:16 AM   #36
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Well this "fun, street car" with 600 horse can turn lethal pretty quick. There is no street tire in the world that's going to let you put that much power through two wheel drive to ****ty street pavement on a regular basis.

Hence, something that's amusing off full boost is cool. A TVS will do that, as will a properly sized twin turbo setup. I strongly recommend against TT, unless you are fully capable of performing the work yourself and are prepared to have the car spend a lot of time on jackstands.
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Old 11-24-2015, 10:33 AM   #37
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Originally Posted by OX1 View Post
Understood, just pointing out that many feel much over 600 WHP on the stock engine is at least starting to take some risk. Many who claim they just want a fun street car end up at or over that 600 number when they find out it is theoretically only a pulley swap away. If it is me, I am not spending 6 grand or more for anything less than an honest minimum 200 whp increase.

and I originally was all on the PD bandwagon, but quickly realized that even a 295 non drag radial is not that hard to lose traction with on a stock car on, especially in colder temps (which I guess OP would may not see in Tenn??).
You have to at least mention to the OP that with a PD, he will be more likely to lose traction out of the hole without a serious, and possibly daily driver unfriendly, tire upgrade.
better to lose traction off the line than at speed when the boost kicks in.
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Old 11-24-2015, 10:39 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5LHO View Post
Well this "fun, street car" with 600 horse can turn lethal pretty quick. There is no street tire in the world that's going to let you put that much power through two wheel drive to ****ty street pavement on a regular basis.

Hence, something that's amusing off full boost is cool. A TVS will do that, as will a properly sized twin turbo setup. I strongly recommend against TT, unless you are fully capable of performing the work yourself and are prepared to have the car spend a lot of time on jackstands.
Agreed, 600 rwhp is a lot and should be respected however you get it.
I know, I am at almost 700 rwhp and drive my car all over. You just have to respect it or it will hurt you. I run 335's and just went from BFG's to Proxes 888's and it tamed it right down. Not the best mileage tire, but it made it a lot more drive-able. With big power comes big responsibility. Do you really want a 600+ hp monster?
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Old 11-24-2015, 02:24 PM   #39
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^ are they as noisy as most say they are?
I plan on getting them when I buy my new block and trans; it's a long way off though.


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Old 11-24-2015, 02:27 PM   #40
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^ are they as noisy as most say they are?
I plan on getting them when I buy my new block and trans; it's a long way off though.


Pick your poison.
More boost = more sound no matter what the mechanism.
Most people love it. I know i do.
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Old 11-24-2015, 02:37 PM   #41
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I was talking about the tires.


Pick your poison.
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Old 11-24-2015, 02:39 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fabman View Post
better to lose traction off the line than at speed when the boost kicks in.

We both know that's easily tailored, unlike superchargers.
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Old 11-24-2015, 03:00 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Great Recon View Post
I was talking about the tires.


Pick your poison.
Oh, they are definitely louder.
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Old 11-24-2015, 03:06 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OX1 View Post
We both know that's easily tailored, unlike superchargers.
High boost vs. low boost is Just a pulley change away.
3/4" in size on my car is 100 lbs of torque.
One bolt to change....and no excess piping...you keep skirting that issue.
Then there's the smog...turbo's aren't smog legal. Most blowers are.

I get it you are a turbo guy and they absolutely do rock, no doubt, but for this guys intended purpose, I wouldn't recommend one.
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Old 11-24-2015, 03:40 PM   #45
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better to lose traction off the line than at speed when the boost kicks in.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fabman View Post
High boost vs. low boost is Just a pulley change away.
3/4" in size on my car is 100 lbs of torque.
One bolt to change....and no excess piping...you keep skirting that issue.
Then there's the smog...turbo's aren't smog legal. Most blowers are.

I get it you are a turbo guy and they absolutely do rock, no doubt, but for this guys intended purpose, I wouldn't recommend one.
vs not even having to get out of the car. Heck I had electronic variable boost curve vs RPM 20 years ago
(with a global control to shift the entire curve up/down),
all on the fly.


Not skirting anything, I never argued turbos are the hardest to install. Just pointing out that if approaching engine limits on HP, turbos are safer. If not, might as well get a centri since they are plenty of fun, cheaper, easiest to install (don't have to tear down any part of engine) and won't constantly be blowing off the tires from too much low end torque.

Don't get me wrong, my dads sleeper is an 84 small LTD with blown (supercharger BTW) 331 stroker on an A/S 225 tire. Talk about instantaneously smoking the tires at will. Lots of fun, but massive tire spin gets old after a while. For him, it's mostly a show car (with the motor/blower for bragging rights), don't think he has ever floored it.
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Old 11-25-2015, 08:44 AM   #46
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Wanna see what losing traction with 600+ horse ends up like like sometimes?

This was on a car with modified rear suspension to handle the power and top tier tires (pilot sports)...on the supposedly easier-to-get traction centri setup...
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Old 11-25-2015, 05:39 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by 5LHO View Post
Wanna see what losing traction with 600+ horse ends up like like sometimes?

This was on a car with modified rear suspension to handle the power and top tier tires (pilot sports)...on the supposedly easier-to-get traction centri setup...
Damn man. What happened? take a corner too hot?
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Old 11-25-2015, 07:05 PM   #48
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Before I state what I just bought, please don't make fun of me... I got an Edelbrock E-force 675 set up. I found no one who could actually had the heat issue, it was always I heard or someone i know.. knows someone... type information.. Plus found most of the time people don't change there thermostat to a 160..
I don't race the car its just for me. I could of gone for the Vortech for more money, but after speaking with a few people. I chose the Edelbrock. Now i am worried about the rear axles due to the Twin screw and the torque. I was told to weld the tubes, but should i still change the axles? What is a fair price for install not counting parts?
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Old 11-25-2015, 07:26 PM   #49
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Before I state what I just bought, please don't make fun of me... I got an Edelbrock E-force 675 set up. I found no one who could actually had the heat issue, it was always I heard or someone i know.. knows someone... type information.. Plus found most of the time people don't change there thermostat to a 160..
I don't race the car its just for me. I could of gone for the Vortech for more money, but after speaking with a few people. I chose the Edelbrock. Now i am worried about the rear axles due to the Twin screw and the torque. I was told to weld the tubes, but should i still change the axles? What is a fair price for install not counting parts?
Nothing wrong with the E force. If you have a stick and are going to drag race or dump the clutch with sticky tires or have wheel hop, then by all means weld the tubes. If not, don't sweat it. Stock axles are plenty strong enough. A 160 thermostat is pretty cold for a street car. 170 is probably more realistic, but I ran a stock thermostat at 700 rwhp forever without a problem so I'm not sure why you would need a 160? A thermostat won't help much with heat soak anyway. The heat soak is from the blower being bolted directly to the engine. That's the downside of a twin screw, but well worth it in my opinion. In a street car it's really not a problem.
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Old 11-25-2015, 07:46 PM   #50
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No need to weld the axles with the edleborock. It will never get to the hp or tq limit with it, so you are safe there.

Also as I said b4 it won't do what everyone is thinking with a twin screw or tvs on a stock compression coyote.


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Old 11-25-2015, 08:05 PM   #51
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Before I state what I just bought, please don't make fun of me... I got an Edelbrock E-force 675 set up. I found no one who could actually had the heat issue, it was always I heard or someone i know.. knows someone... type information.. Plus found most of the time people don't change there thermostat to a 160..
I don't race the car its just for me. I could of gone for the Vortech for more money, but after speaking with a few people. I chose the Edelbrock. Now i am worried about the rear axles due to the Twin screw and the torque. I was told to weld the tubes, but should i still change the axles? What is a fair price for install not counting parts?
Congratulations on your purchase! My buddy should be done with mine by Monday. Cant wait to get it back
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Old 11-25-2015, 10:19 PM   #52
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I am looking forward to doing the install myself. I went with Brenspeed w/tune. also got the 675 Kit. Car it is in the Garage. the Cat deletes will be here Friday so i will put those on this weekend and then when the Kit hits Nashville, ill start taking off the Bumper and start doing the small stuff.. I am getting Excited thinking about it!!
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Old 11-25-2015, 11:58 PM   #53
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Damn man. What happened? take a corner too hot?
Nope, straight dry road. When 600 horse hits the tires it's no frickin' joke. It's not an experience I'll soon forget.
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Old 11-26-2015, 02:08 AM   #54
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Nope, straight dry road. When 600 horse hits the tires it's no frickin' joke. It's not an experience I'll soon forget.

God damn man that's crazy, definitely gotta respect the power these things make.


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Old 11-27-2015, 12:02 AM   #55
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God damn man that's crazy, definitely gotta respect the power these things make.


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I think most of the time it depends on how abruptly and crazy you put that power to the ground. Because ive seen quit a few stock 5.0s against a wall and post because they abuse them past its limit. But never the less 600+ is no joke forsure no matter what setup you have. Just always have to be careful with it.


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Old 11-27-2015, 09:42 PM   #56
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This is the issue with centri...the power sneaks up on you and hits hardest where the engine is already making most of its power.
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Old 11-28-2015, 08:46 PM   #57
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This is the issue with centri...the power sneaks up on you and hits hardest where the engine is already making most of its power.

Yeah thats true
Cant deny the power is just addicting though lol


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Old 11-29-2015, 11:49 PM   #58
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Vortech is on, car sounds great but can't get into boost just yet as I only have the base tune from Lund. Hoping to get it squared away in the next few days


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Old 11-30-2015, 01:28 AM   #59
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Yeah thats true
Cant deny the power is just addicting though lol


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Old 11-30-2015, 06:46 PM   #60
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Did a WOT pull today. Thing is ****in fast. My radials get here Friday I need those on like ASAP


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Old 11-30-2015, 07:02 PM   #61
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Vortech or ON3 Perforamance?

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Did a WOT pull today. Thing is ****in quick My radials get here Friday I need those on like ASAP


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Fixed it for you

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Old 11-30-2015, 07:10 PM   #62
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600 is nice but 700 would be nicer


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Old 11-30-2015, 07:12 PM   #63
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600 is nice but 700 would be nicer


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Just a # doesn't make it fast. Quick yes fast eghhh


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Old 11-30-2015, 07:17 PM   #64
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Just a # doesn't make it fast. Quick yes fast eghhh


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Rap have u ever heard of a all wheel drive mustang?


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Old 11-30-2015, 07:18 PM   #65
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Rap have u ever heard of a all wheel drive mustang?


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No sir


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Old 11-30-2015, 07:19 PM   #66
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Some older guy swears that he knows someone that owns an awd Stang


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Old 11-30-2015, 07:20 PM   #67
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600 is nice but 700 would be nicer


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700 is nice...
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Old 11-30-2015, 07:20 PM   #68
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Here you go.
http://youtu.be/dKBICDja6Sg


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Old 11-30-2015, 07:20 PM   #69
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Some older guy swears that he knows someone that owns an awd Stang


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It's possible if it was a one off custom build.


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Old 11-30-2015, 07:25 PM   #70
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They are custom built Ken Block has one. They will build you one with your body or a fiberglass replica 1960's body on a tube frame chassis. It's pretty badass really.


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