F'n steering shaft alignment after header install - Mustang Evolution

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Old 01-16-2016, 07:36 AM   #1
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F'n steering shaft alignment after header install

Folks, could really use some help here. I know that very few would have exprienced this, but maybe you can think of a creative way to help me rebound.

Installing BBK tuned-length headers this weekend. Memorized the videos and am slowed up by stuck exh collector nuts at the cats. PB & heat so far.

Anyway, to get the steering shaft out, I had to release the steering from locked position because the upper shaft nut was UNDER the shaft - no can reach. I carefully turned the wheel until I could access the bolt and removed it. Then I pulled up on the shaft from under the dash and damn! The steering wheel floated back to some default position, thus killing the wheel-to-steering wheel alignment.

When I put things back together, am I just going to have to guess where the alignment is, get the car on the road and see where the wheel-to-steering position is, then start the process of loosen, adjust, retest?

It must be important to keep this alignment because they say to mark with paint pen - I didn't get the chance. And the wheel is no longer locked. Bill with CJPP says to be careful about a spring in there, too, so I'm worried about risk to that as I work through this.

BTW, I chose 304 stainless BBK tuned length -- I plan to move to a SC and also replace clutch, so no LTH for me.
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Old 02-20-2016, 02:13 PM   #2
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Answered. I completed the BBK tuned length installation. 304 stainless. They stopped making those. Wrapped them in titanium wrap.

The steering column knuckles have receivers that are keyed so I could go wrong. I did need to turn the wheel a bit to get to the top nut, so lining that up again took maybe 2-3 small changes before the joint would slip on. Drove it - all straight as it was when I began.

THe worst thing about the BBK tuned length install was the driver's side collector flange nut that nearly touches the O2 bung/sensor - no way to get wrench in there. I cut open a 5/8 box end wrench and inched it to flush, then got a few very slight turns with an open end wrench to get maybe 30ft-lb. I'm going to get a crows foot open wrench and retighten along with header bolts in ~300 miles.
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Old 02-20-2016, 03:30 PM   #3
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good to see you got it squared away man! when you say "tuned length" do you mean shorties? I know you won't want to hear it, but I wouldn't have wort through the headache of that install for shorty headers
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Old 02-20-2016, 05:48 PM   #4
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I know. I put a lot of thought into it. I will want to upgrade my clutch and will not want to remove long tubes to do that. Also, I want the increased torque gain that I might see over long tubes, after adding a super charger - not looking for top end. I had the money, had the time and for me it was about setting up best for future mods I have planned. Point well-taken.
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Old 02-22-2016, 02:43 PM   #5
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You dont need to remove longtubes when removing tranny? Ive had mine out a couple times and no problems with headers.
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Old 02-22-2016, 03:53 PM   #6
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and brianw64 has quite a build on his hands, I see in his sig. Gives me ideas for my next upgrades.

Thanks for the comments. Maybe they'll help the next guy.


I sure as heck ain't swappin them out for LT! PIAX5
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Old 02-22-2016, 06:37 PM   #7
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I havent updated my sig. in a couple yrs, my car is a totally different animal now, and I wasnt being a smart a** I was only saying that you dont need to remove the LT'S to remove the tranny, adding LT'S was still the single most hp gainer of all my mods. switching to e85 is right there with it tho...
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