"Spring Thaw" Vortech/Steeda Build - Page 2 - Mustang Evolution

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Old 03-25-2016, 07:45 PM   #36
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Next time I go FI though, it's definitely PD.

I've done TT, I've done nitrous, I've done NA builds but, I haven't rocked a PD yet....gotta try it!

The Vortech + Coyote is a very gentle driving vehicle, easy as stock, until you get on it and then, clench your sphincter hard. The top end charge is really good. I'd definitely recommend it over the Paxton, unless I were planning to go through the rotating assembly and build something that'd do over 800 horse reliably.

Lol that is awesome and friggin exciting! I cannot wait till I can get it altogether. Sorry OP, I'm done jacking lol.


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Old 03-25-2016, 08:19 PM   #37
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Lol that is awesome and friggin exciting! I cannot wait till I can get it altogether. Sorry OP, I'm done jacking lol.
No worries, discuss away, that's the whole point!
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Old 03-25-2016, 08:23 PM   #38
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No worries, discuss away, that's the whole point!

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Old 03-25-2016, 08:41 PM   #39
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Another thing, Hodor, is the 47s will limit you in terms of output. It is perfectly ok to use them but, you'll have to cap your rev limit at stock (7K) and keep the stock pulley on. The BAP is good insurance, definitely. Tuners like Shaun at AED won't even touch a car with 47s on, regardless of the owner's wishes. I think he's a little uptight on the issue, especially since neither you or me were/are looking for block-busting 1000 horsepower build and asking a few questions about needs and wants seems fair, instead of being instantly dismissive.

Your oil pump gears will definitely thank you for keeping the stock rev limit under boost. Those can bust when revs over 7k under pressure are called for or boost levels over around 9 psig. They go and it is bye-bye engine.
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Old 03-25-2016, 11:26 PM   #40
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Another thing, Hodor, is the 47s will limit you in terms of output. It is perfectly ok to use them but, you'll have to cap your rev limit at stock (7K) and keep the stock pulley on. The BAP is good insurance, definitely. Tuners like Shaun at AED won't even touch a car with 47s on, regardless of the owner's wishes. I think he's a little uptight on the issue, especially since neither you or me were/are looking for block-busting 1000 horsepower build and asking a few questions about needs and wants seems fair, instead of being instantly dismissive.



Your oil pump gears will definitely thank you for keeping the stock rev limit under boost. Those can bust when revs over 7k under pressure are called for or boost levels over around 9 psig. They go and it is bye-bye engine.

I was told Lund would only tune ID1000's and above which is why I upgraded to those in the kit I bought. I know they're probably a bit overkill, but I'd rather ID's over Deatchwerks in a mustang application any day of the week. I was also curious as to whether or not I should've purchased the OPG's. I was given the advice if I wasn't revving the absolute piss out of the car up and past 7k, I'd be ok. What's your personal opinion on my particular setup 5HLO?


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Old 03-25-2016, 11:32 PM   #41
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Sounds fine. Opgs are a big job. Full removal of the front dress.

Funny, Lund had no issues with 47s when asked, telling him what I wanted.

Id 1000 are overkill for what you describe as needs but IDs tune WAY easier than the old school 47s. They are just far higher precision.
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Old 03-25-2016, 11:35 PM   #42
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Sounds fine. Opgs are a big job. Full removal of the front dress.



Id 1000 are overkill for what you describe as needs but IDs tune WAY easier than the old school 47s. They are just far higher precision.

Yes I can see that. The initial price of them is the easy part lol. And yeah I figured the ID's would be, but I also wanted to give myself some breathing room for down the road. I do want to build the motor and up the boost at some point. Also currently trying to decide on a clutch/flywheel.


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Old 03-25-2016, 11:48 PM   #43
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Leave it stock. The clutch is quite strong on this car, barring the issues the early 11s had.

I did three years banging clutch dump launches at 4500-6000 rpm, on slicks. No problem. It was still good after the sc as well.
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Old 03-25-2016, 11:55 PM   #44
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Leave it stock. The clutch is quite strong on this car, barring the issues the early 11s had.



I did three years banging clutch dump launches at 4500-6000 rpm, on slicks. No problem. It was still good after the sc as well.

Wow really? I didn't realize that as it feels as light as a feather lol. It catches and engages pretty flawlessly....was also contemplating an MGW race spec for that once or a twice a year track day.


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Old 03-26-2016, 01:05 AM   #45
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Wow really? I didn't realize that as it feels as light as a feather lol. It catches and engages pretty flawlessly....was also contemplating an MGW race spec for that once or a twice a year track day.


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Were I to do the MT thing over again, I'd save the money spent on the band-aids (which worked well, don't get me wrong) and put it into an MGW Race Spec from the get go. It makes on-road driving better too. It's the low effort driving that actually gives the biggest problem with this box, due to the less than precise stock shifter.
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Old 03-26-2016, 08:32 AM   #46
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Great info 5LHO, again, I really appreciate all the advice. I love all the discussion fellas!

My goals for the car are why I'm going the direction I am - a weekend, street car. I decided to keep the 47lbers that came with the kit because they should support what I'm looking to get out of the car, which is around 550whp on a conservative tune, give or take a few. Keeping the revs below 7k on the street should not be an issue, especially with taller 3.31 gears.

I'm sure many people think that adding a S/C to a car that already has 412hp stock is overkill for the street, especially if it won't be raced. And to be honest, it is - there is no way I'll be able to use the full potential of a blown coyote on the street. I just love forced induction, I love the "cool factor", it is my car, and I don't give a rip what anyone else thinks . I had a PD blower on my last car about 10 years ago ('04 GTO with LS1) and loved it, but did the wise thing and sold the car due to some unforseen financial issues.

Yep, I contacted Shaun at AED with some questions and he told me he would not tune the car without ID1000's or a Tial blow-off valve due to valve flutter issues. My goals simply don't justify the cost of adding $950 injectors and a $350 blow-off valve. But hey, if later on I want to push it further, adding those items and a new tune should be no big deal.

My t-bolts won't be here until Wednesday, so I may install the springs and struts this weekend....or I may be a good husband and actually do some spring yard work. Or both...
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Old 03-26-2016, 08:41 AM   #47
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...and, of course, Shaun and the other major tuners get paid if you use the deutschworks ID injectors so, keep that in mind, when you're getting advice. There is a business relationship here.

Not saying IDs are crap or anything, they are a premium bit of kit but, for your goals, they are a total waste of money. Let's keep in mind those 47s are on the 13-14 GT500 and it makes plenty of power out of a bigger displacement engine.

Repeatedly, I heard from tuners, "Why have granny power with a blower on?" Well, because I'm not 13 years old and think that more always equals better. The farther you push, the more singular of purpose the car becomes, the less versatile and generally entertaining it can easily get and a bigger a psych job of worry about breaking stuff can emerge.

Know when you are happy and stop there; its the key to a composed life.
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Old 03-26-2016, 10:37 AM   #48
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I agree with everything you said Hodor, and I have 3.73's...lol. Ohhh it's going to be interesting tuning on the street with Lund...


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Old 03-26-2016, 10:49 AM   #49
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I'll be totally honest...tuning on the street cost me my car. Tune was 99% dialed; just a few nigglies and, kaboom. You may wish to hire the services of a dyno for tuning. I didn't have that option readily available to me where I live. Or at least try to be as careful as possible here, way away from traffic, side streets, what have you....
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Old 03-26-2016, 11:02 AM   #50
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I'll be totally honest...tuning on the street cost me my car. Tune was 99% dialed; just a few nigglies and, kaboom. You may wish to hire the services of a dyno for tuning. I didn't have that option readily available to me where I live. Or at least try to be as careful as possible here, way away from traffic, side streets, what have you....

That's very true. My buddy helping me install it said the same thing...it's just too dangerous. I may load up the base tune and take it to a shop in NY (unfortunately a few hours away) who specialize in these kits. They've done a ton of them. Still haven't 100% decided...


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Old 03-26-2016, 11:04 AM   #51
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It is just so much smarter and faster. Just make sure you have all the install squared away like I've repeatedly described and you'll be done and safely home that day. The only thing a little tricky to tune on the dyno is the part throttle performance but, that is no big deal to do on-road, if needed.
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Old 04-01-2016, 08:41 AM   #52
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Got all the worm gear clamps swapped out with t-bolts. Unfortunately, my kit from JPC was missing one of the 3" clamps. Called them and they sent out the missing one the same day. Once I get the final clamp on, I'll put the front-end back together. The weather is supposed to be cold and crappy (possible snow) for the next week around here so I still haven't put the car back on the road via insurance coverage...she will be sitting a little while longer.
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Old 04-01-2016, 09:35 AM   #53
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Great. What you can do is get it running and idling on the base tune, DL and make sure there are no idling weirdnesses, weird fuel trims or vac leaks.

Tuning starts with running/idling, then light p/t operation, 5k Max, then WOT operation.
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Old 04-01-2016, 09:53 AM   #54
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Great. What you can do is get it running and idling on the base tune, DL and make sure there are no idling weirdnesses, weird fuel trims or vac leaks.

Tuning starts with running/idling, then light p/t operation, 5k Max, then WOT operation.
I can definitely get started on that in the meantime. If you're willing to suggest which parameters to log and what numbers are considered "normal", I'd appreciate it
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Old 04-01-2016, 10:35 AM   #55
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OK, there will be a lot of PIDs, I'll get you a full list asap.

Which tuner are you using? X4? If so, I can create a cfg file for you and email it to you.
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Old 04-01-2016, 11:58 AM   #56
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OK, there will be a lot of PIDs, I'll get you a full list asap.

Which tuner are you using? X4? If so, I can create a cfg file for you and email it to you.
Yes, X4. Thank you!!!
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Old 04-01-2016, 12:15 PM   #57
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Pm me an email address.....
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Old 04-01-2016, 04:29 PM   #58
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That's very true. My buddy helping me install it said the same thing...it's just too dangerous. I may load up the base tune and take it to a shop in NY (unfortunately a few hours away) who specialize in these kits. They've done a ton of them. Still haven't 100% decided...


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Who is the shop in NY?
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Old 04-01-2016, 11:25 PM   #59
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Who is the shop in NY?

Speidell


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Old 04-04-2016, 05:22 PM   #60
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I officially finished up the Vortech install today. The trimming of the front bumper wasn't bad - quite a bit of plastic needs to be cut for the '11-'12 models to make room for the intercooler, but the majority is in areas that can't been seen so it's no big deal. Same thing for the under body splash guard.

Before I buttoned everything up I started it up and let it warm up to normal operating temps a few times over the weekend to get some heating/cooling cycles through the coolant system. I'm sure glad I did because it developed a couple coolant leaks - one where the coolant line connects to the reservoir and the other where a hose clamp loosened up at a spot that had to be modified near the S/C bracket. I'm assuming all the wrestling I've had to do with taking the fan in and out several times didn't help either, since it would get stuck and tug at that same line. Everything is tightened back up and good to go now.

Everything seems to be running as it should during idle and some mild neutral revs. It's been snowing off and on over the past few days here in MI, so I'm not going to road test it until I'm sure spring is actually here to stay - been very crappy "spring" weather so far

Here's the official completion photo:


My panhard bar came in last week, so now that the S/C is done, time to move on to the second phase - suspension. I'll update once that gets underway...
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Old 04-04-2016, 06:08 PM   #61
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Sweet, looks familiar....I had the polished version, only diff. Hopefully you can get 'erout a little at some point soon; then we can start looking at the logs.

I did suspension first but, hey, you're doing the right things here. Get some bigger and softer tires at some point, too
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Old 04-04-2016, 06:41 PM   #62
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Congrats Hodor!
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Old 04-04-2016, 07:24 PM   #63
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Sweet, looks familiar....I had the polished version, only diff. Hopefully you can get 'erout a little at some point soon; then we can start looking at the logs.

I did suspension first but, hey, you're doing the right things here. Get some bigger and softer tires at some point, too

Same here, took care of suspension first. I'm still waiting on mine to arrive!!! It's killing me lol. I'm going to need some better rubber too.


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Old 04-04-2016, 07:56 PM   #64
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I'm looking ahead to firing nitrous through the motor this season, starting this Friday....then PD down the road. I'm actually liking the Edelbrock this week, for it's super street manners.

I'm thinking of self-tuning.....
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Old 04-30-2016, 02:12 PM   #65
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I got all the suspension parts installed a couple weeks ago, just been too busy with other stuff to post anything...

The front struts weren't too bad - I did the second one in about 1/3 of the time it took me to do the first once I knew what I was doing. The stock strut mounts are junk, one even fell apart and sent bearings all over the garage. The GT500 strut mounts are 25469473 times better.

The rear shocks were simple, other than getting the $%*@#!& nut and washer off the top of the stock shock shaft in the trunk. I have no idea who is responsible for that design, but they need to be clubbed in the head. The threaded shaft of the rear shock which sticks up into the trunk spins inside the body of the sock unless you hold the shaft with a wrench while loosening the nut. Seems simple, yes? Well, the end of the threaded shaft is not a hex-head, it's rounded on two sides and flat on the other two. I could get a 1/4 wrench on it, but with any significant force, it would just spin and begin to strip the end of the shaft. I got it half off then it was stripped and I was stuck. I ended up getting it off with a hammer drill and deep well socket using pulsations like an impact wrench. Needless to say, there were a lot of curse words flying out of my garage - I'm sure the neighbors were impressed because I guarantee they could hear me.

The panhard bar was easy - just needed a little "persuasion" with a rag and hammer to get the bushings up into place. Simple to adjust while on the car.

Now for the good part: the ride is fantastic! It just shows how terrible the stock ride is with the shock/strut/spring package that comes on the Brembo cars. Before, I would classify the ride as stiff, jittery, and unsettled. With the Steeda gear, the ride is still stiff, but soft at the same time. Hard to describe, but feels very planted and secure, the overall ride has improved significantly. Taking fast corners is a blast!

I forgot to take before pictures, but here's a couple of the wheel gaps afterwards. The springs should be settled as it has been about two weeks. I would have liked the rear to be a little lower, but I'm still very happy with the look and feel. Looks better in person of course:

Rear:




Front (with Chihuahuas for scale) :



I'm very happy with my car now. Took a lot of work, but feels good to have done it all myself - now just time to enjoy it! Thanks for tuning in...

And a special thanks to 5HLO for his help with looking over my datalogs - much appreciated!
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Old 04-30-2016, 02:19 PM   #66
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Very happy for you, congratulations on the successful installs!
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Old 05-01-2016, 10:19 AM   #67
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You are selling chihuahuas? Oh, for *scale*, I see....

Little things....Panhard is easy if you loosen the cross brace bolts at the body and open up the axle end mount with a pry bar a bit. no persuasion needed.

I'm waiting on the WOT log man, get 'er done!

I got one pass in on my nitrous setup before the solenoid packed it in and filled the motor with nitrous :O. It was an 120 mph pass so, not a bad start.
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2014 Premium GT, SGM, Brembo, Auto, Tech, Comfort, etc. GT500s, Steeda UCA, VMP auto N/A tune. 100 shot nitrous on BBR tune. Best e/t 11.42 at 120.64

2012 Premium GT, Candy Red, Brembo package, 3.73, MT82, Comfort, Tech, et al. Procal tune, Roush UCA, UMI poly LCA, GT500s, Steeda red bracket, Hoosier 28x10x16 bias drags. Best e/t 11.91 at 115.23 RIP
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Old 05-03-2016, 06:01 PM   #68
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I've been searching but having trouble finding a definitive answer to this: I'm considering a Roush mechanical boost gauge with vent pod - can I tee into the bypass valve line for this?
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Old 05-03-2016, 06:33 PM   #69
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I've been searching but having trouble finding a definitive answer to this: I'm considering a Roush mechanical boost gauge with vent pod - can I tee into the bypass valve line for this?

I actually got this exact set up for my Vortech Hodor, so it's gunna work one way or another lol


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Old 05-03-2016, 06:40 PM   #70
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I actually got this exact set up for my Vortech Hodor, so it's gunna work one way or another lol
Perfect! Let me know which line you end up tying into please, and any other install tips you want to send my way
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