"Spring Thaw" Vortech/Steeda Build - Mustang Evolution

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Old 02-06-2016, 02:44 PM   #1
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"Spring Thaw" Vortech/Steeda Build

To help pass the time during this Michigan winter, I'm starting a build thread to update the progress of the new mods I'll be installing this spring. I enjoy reading others' build threads, and I figure my next round of mods will warrant a build thread as well. I'm hoping people will chime in with tips and/or advice as the installs progress, and hopefully it will help others in the future with similar installs. This is just a preview at this point, as my car is still in hibernation for a couple months. My current mods are in my sig.

I took advantage of the Black Friday and New Year's sales and picked up some Steeda Sport springs, Steeda Pro-Action shocks/struts, and GT500 strut mounts - the wheel gaps have got to go!

I've been wanting to go F/I since I bought my car last spring, and somehow I convinced my wife to allow me to get a supercharger (still can't believe it). So, after a ton of researching and reading countless threads, articles, etc, I decided to go with a centrifugal blower. I had a positive displacement blower on my previous car ('04 GTO, auto) and wanted to change it up this time. I have 3.31 gears and a manual, so I will be able to control the RPMs better as well.

I managed to score a brand new/unused Vortech V-3 complete kit off the classifieds on another Mustang forum for a great price. I already have a SCT X4, so I'll be looking to off-load the one that came with the kit.

This is the adult male's version of Santa Claus:


Boxes of goodies:


Mmmmmm, sexy:


The worst part is sitting around waiting for the spring thaw and nice weather....but at least I have plenty of time to read through the install manual and decide what other accessories I want to go with the build.

My goal is for anywhere between 550-580whp as my car is just a weekend/nice weather car and I'm not into drag racing, so it will never see the strip. That should be PLENTY for some spirited back road street driving, and that's all I'm looking for. My plans are to use the 47lb injectors that came with the kit with a fuel pump booster for added insurance.

I'll be doing the installs myself and will install the suspension components first to allow the springs to settle, work out any tweaks, and burn up the gas in the tank from winter storage. Once that's dialed in, it'll be time for the Vortech install - I'm planning for a Lund remote tune via data logging.

In the mean time, I'll be working on picking up an adjustable panhard bar and fuel pump booster, and welcome any install tips and advice you can give me. I'll keep things updated (with pics) as they progress or if I have any questions. Thanks!!!
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Old 02-06-2016, 04:41 PM   #2
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Following, good luck with the build!
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Old 02-06-2016, 08:21 PM   #3
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Good luck with the build. I have goodies in boxes too waiting to be installed. That's plenty of horsepower to have. After all said and done ul be trying to figure out how to actually put it to the pavement. That's where I'm at with mine but the goodies in the boxes should do the trick.


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Old 02-06-2016, 10:08 PM   #4
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How much was it?

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Old 02-06-2016, 10:40 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Devil Strider View Post
How much was it?

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Everything pictured I got for under $5k.
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Old 02-07-2016, 02:08 AM   #6
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That's a real similar set up to what I have.....I installed my V3 last spring so if you have any questions, it's still pretty fresh in my mind!

Looks like you got a hell of a deal for under 5K


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Old 02-07-2016, 02:37 AM   #7
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I am tuned in my brotha. I have Steeda parts boxes sitting around myself. Instead of installing parts yesterday, I took it out for drive. I couldn't help myself. Anyway, happy wrenching on your build! May the garage gods smile on you favorably. May that nut or bolt that drops, make it to the floor, and not in that d*mn spot where you can't f****** reach it!!! F***!!!!!
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Old 02-07-2016, 12:25 PM   #8
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"Anyway, happy wrenching on your build! May the garage gods smile on you favorably. May that nut or bolt that drops, make it to the floor, and not in that d*mn spot where you can't f****** reach it!!! F***!!!!!"

Amen to that! I got excited seeing the brown truck n boxes. Love that sight!
Ditto on putting the power down too.


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Old 02-07-2016, 02:22 PM   #9
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I've been reading good things about both Brisk and NGK spark plugs. Any suggestions on which of the two to go with (one heat range cooler) or some other brand?
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Old 02-08-2016, 01:46 PM   #10
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Thanks for sharing, looking forward to it.
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Old 02-08-2016, 10:02 PM   #11
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Subscribed dude. I plan on doing the vortech kit very soon as I've already tackled the suspension. That's one smokin deal you got there. GL with it all and keep us posted.


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Old 03-05-2016, 07:19 PM   #12
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Subscribed - I just got back from bringing the car home after a 1800 long road trip. I quickly realized it needs more power and better ride. So this is the exact path I will be taking - A daily driver but with some attitude. After conviencing the admiral (better half) she allowed me to use part of the tax refund and now a full Steeda Suspension kit was just ordered today - Thanks Tim. Now me and the dog anxiously look out the front window for a delivery.
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Old 03-05-2016, 07:59 PM   #13
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Just got my new spark plugs the other day - went with Brisk (one heat range colder). It's supposed to be in the 50's or 60's over the next 7-10 days here, so hopefully I can begin the install in a few weeks if the spring weather holds.
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Old 03-18-2016, 07:52 PM   #14
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I began the Vortech install this week. I've been working on it for a couple hours each night after work. Hopefully I'll be able to make quite a bit more progress this weekend.

Here's a link to the install manual if anyone want to take a look:
http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/images/0.pdf

I'd say I'm about 1/3 of the way done with the install. So far, the instructions have been pretty good. The instructions call for replacing the water pump pulley with the supplied one, but there was not one included in the kit. I called Vortech, and they said the water pump pulley no longer needs to be changed. It would be nice if they would update the instructions.....

So for I've done the front end disassembly, changed the plugs, and just finished up modifying all the coolant hoses and getting the coolant reservoir installed. Tomorrow I'll start on modifying the fan - the instructions are a little confusing for this part, so we'll see. Luckily, I already own a crimping tool that is designed to crimp the little metal clamps on Pex-type water lines. If I didn't have this tool, I don't know how I would have been able to crimp all the hose connecters for the install. Probably would have had to go out and buy a tool for it.

I've really been enjoying the install so far, just taking my time, studying the install photos, and definitely subscribing to the "measure twice, cut once" rule before doing anything that is irreversible - so far, so good.

I'll try to post another update after the weekend. Not too interesting at this point, but here's a picture of the engine bay as it sits tonight:

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Old 03-18-2016, 10:31 PM   #15
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That's fantastic Hodor! Really cool that you're diy-ing it. Good luck over the weekend!
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Old 03-18-2016, 10:31 PM   #16
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Man that sounds like a good time with a killer out come. Cant wait to see the finished pics/vid.
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Old 03-18-2016, 11:34 PM   #17
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Be prepared for some very serious bumper surgery on the 2012 car. I did the same SC on my last car and it was savage how much had to be cut away to make room for the big FMIC. Pipe runs are also very tight in there, make sure no pipe touches anything under there or you'll be chasing false knock up the wazoo. Get T-bolts now or you will regret it. Beefcake has 'em for $100.
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Old 03-18-2016, 11:49 PM   #18
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Keep 'em coming ...
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Old 03-20-2016, 07:06 PM   #19
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Well, yesterday I worked on getting the fan shroud modified, which wasn't too bad. I used a Dremel with a cut-off wheel to make the cuts - very easy. After getting the fan reinstalled, I figured out that I didn't mount the fan sensor back on correctly after I made the cuts, so I had to pull it back out and fix my error. Also, two of the nuts included with the kit for this part were the wrong thread pattern as the two bolts - luckily I had some spare nuts of similar size on hand that worked.

Putting the supercharger bracket together was a major pain! I don't know why Vortech didn't just label each part with a certain number or letter like "A", "B", "C", etc, instead it is a diagram of all the parts and their measurements (page 27 of the manual) to distinguish one from another....WTF Vortech?!? So, I dumped all of them out on the dining room table, printed off that page of hieroglyphics, and worked on it like a puzzle. After about a half hour of cursing, my wife, who is quite intelligent, decided she would come "help". Well, that lasted about 5 minutes before I sent her on her way (married people will understand ).

After about an hour, I finally had it put together. I labeled each part and where it went before disassembling it to install on the front of the engine. I HIGHLY suggest anyone else doing their own Vortech/Paxton install do the same. So, I got the bracket mounted and bolted the head unit on, but couldn't quite get the belt over the head unit pulley, so I had to stand there scratching my head for a while. I swore quite a bit also. Turns out I mounted one of the pulleys in the wrong hole, which made it impossible to get the belt on (too tight). After having to disassemble and reassemble the bracket again to make the adjustment, everything seems to fit perfect and the belt appears to be in perfect alignment with all of the supercharger and stock pulleys. I guess we'll find out how I did once I fire it up.

So, due to my couple of errors, I put myself about 3 hours behind where I thought I'd be after today. I also got the throttle body and spacer installed and flipped the factory horn upside down to make room for the intercooler and all the piping. I have tomorrow off work so I'll start on the intercooler and piping tomorrow.

Here's how she looks tonight:
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Old 03-20-2016, 07:21 PM   #20
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Looks familiar. People are well advised to measure the dimensions of all the spacers and mark them on the spacer with a sharpie. include the diameter of the inside holes, then lay it out on the carpet and mark where they go. There are several slightly different spacers and they need to go in the right places or, you will be doing what the op did and taking things apart more than once.
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Old 03-20-2016, 07:36 PM   #21
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Best of luck with your build, sounds like it's gonna be a ripper!
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Old 03-21-2016, 07:25 AM   #22
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Just breath brother! You'll get it. I always tell my wife I'm really good at doing any project afterwards b/c I usually end up doing it twice due to some silly thing like you've mentioned. Swearing commences for me on round 3, round 4 stuff starts breaking and usually blood (mine) is running too lol! Just think of the goal and how awesome it'll be when you're done and breath. Just a little comedic relief on your day off
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Old 03-21-2016, 07:38 AM   #23
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Slow and study is the key, check and recheck and you will be fine.
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Old 03-24-2016, 06:51 PM   #24
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I finished up the install last night after chipping away at it for a couple hours each night this week. Mounting the intercooler was fairly simple. I wasn't expecting to see the "Vortech" stencil on it, but was pleasantly surprised. Installing the intercooler piping on the other hand, was a pain. The driver's side piping wasn't too bad, but the passenger's side was giving me some problems. I had to modify the fan shroud a little more than the instructions called for to get the fan to fit back in. The area of the bypass valve and supercharger mounting bracket is extremely tight with the fan in there. The driver's side wasn't nearly as bad - there was plenty of room (compared to the other side) to get hands and tools in there.

The final step was swapping injectors, loading the tune, then turning the key and praying. I was thrilled that she fired up, idled fine, and wasn't leaking any fluids. I let it idle for about 15 minutes and didn't hear any weird noises or see anything that looked like trouble. I still need to put the front fascia back together and modify the bumper, etc, but I'll do that this weekend. I'll post one final picture after that is done.

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Old 03-24-2016, 06:56 PM   #25
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I'm really recommending you do T-bolts while you have things semi- accessible, man...it's worth it for peace of mind. You will squeeze a tube off at some point inconvenient with worm clamps.
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Old 03-24-2016, 07:48 PM   #26
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Quote:
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I'm really recommending you do T-bolts while you have things semi- accessible, man...it's worth it for peace of mind. You will squeeze a tube off at some point inconvenient with worm clamps.
Yeah, good point...I'd rather deal with the piping one last time now to install t-bolts than having to deal with problems later on down the road. Just ordered a set from JPC for $75 shipped. Thanks for talking me into it
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Old 03-24-2016, 08:25 PM   #27
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Just a word from someone who's done exactly what you are doing. Make sure those charge pipes and clamps touch nothing under there, either.

Who's tune you got?
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Old 03-25-2016, 12:28 PM   #28
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Just a word from someone who's done exactly what you are doing. Make sure those charge pipes and clamps touch nothing under there, either.

Who's tune you got?
Is metal on metal the problem, or can no couplers be touching anything either?

I wanted a conservative, safe tune for the street since the car won't see the track. After corresponding with various tuners, I decided to try a JMS tune from Monty to begin with. I'll see how I like that before I decide to do anything else, tune-wise. I figure if I don't like it, at least I'll be able to actually drive the car somewhere to get a dyno tune. I'm not really comfortable having to do WOT pulls for remote tuning with 3.31 gears on the street. I'm assuming I'd have to go well over 100mph to get some decent data-logging.

Who's tune did you have?
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Old 03-25-2016, 03:03 PM   #29
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It is a pipe on anything thing thing. Metal, plastic, anything, even the two pipes touching each other inside a coupler can set off false knock, pull timing and leave you feeling like you are driving a 3V, but without the torque. The knock sensors are VERY sensitive on this car.

It is definitely dangerous to do WOT tuning on the road. You can do it in 3rd but, that's still a lot of power hitting those tires really fast and a good amount of speed. Plus, to be sure you are getting good data, you need to turn the TC and SC off.

You do need to datalog your car, more or less, depending on how many other problems are uncovered by the datalogging, like wacky fuel trim values, vac leaks, spark blowout, etc.

Mine was tuned by a friend. It was a **** ton of work and I commend him for the efforts. I have no less than 32 datlog files and 8 tune revisions to get it dialed in.
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Old 03-25-2016, 04:19 PM   #30
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Copy that. I appreciate your taking the time to respond and advice.
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Old 03-25-2016, 05:13 PM   #31
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You need any insight or any questions on how to set up the datalog cfg files, what the datalogs mean, etc., I am happy to help. I do know what to look for and may be able to help you get there quicker.

I can also tell you exactly how much bumper you are going to need to cut on a '12, so you don't have to trial fit, trim, trial fit, trim 50 times like I did.
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Old 03-25-2016, 06:04 PM   #32
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I will be paying very close attention to this as well as I'm in the process of gathering up my vortech kit. All I've received was the ID1000's which are installed and the intake. Any help is greatly appreciated from me as well.


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Old 03-25-2016, 06:07 PM   #33
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No sweat. I'll probably do another blower install down the road somewhere, once I get bored shoving bottles of nitrous through my current car.

I would have just kept the Vortech off my old car after I took it off when I killed the car and put it on this one later but, I had a massive home-ownership flood emergency, necessitating the sale for cash.

BTW, the 2013-14 Mustangs don't require the radical bumper surgery the 11-12 cars do to install the FMIC. Just a little gentle relocation of the horn and OAT sensor, tweaking a line on the AC maybe. It's much easier and less messy on these versions of our cars.
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2014 Premium GT, SGM, Brembo, Auto, Tech, Comfort, etc. GT500s, Steeda UCA, VMP auto N/A tune. 100 shot nitrous on BBR tune. Best e/t 11.42 at 120.64

2012 Premium GT, Candy Red, Brembo package, 3.73, MT82, Comfort, Tech, et al. Procal tune, Roush UCA, UMI poly LCA, GT500s, Steeda red bracket, Hoosier 28x10x16 bias drags. Best e/t 11.91 at 115.23 RIP
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Old 03-25-2016, 06:33 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by 5LHO View Post
No sweat. I'll probably do another blower install down the road somewhere, once I get bored shoving bottles of nitrous through my current car.

I would have just kept the Vortech off my old car after I took it off when I killed the car and put it on this one later but, I had a massive home-ownership flood emergency, necessitating the sale for cash.

BTW, the 2013-14 Mustangs don't require the radical bumper surgery the 11-12 cars do to install the FMIC. Just a little gentle relocation of the horn and OAT sensor, tweaking a line on the AC maybe. It's much easier and less messy on these versions of our cars.

That's GREAT to know. It's always nice to hear first hand experience.


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Old 03-25-2016, 06:42 PM   #35
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Next time I go FI though, it's definitely PD.

I've done TT, I've done nitrous, I've done NA builds but, I haven't rocked a PD yet....gotta try it!

The Vortech + Coyote is a very gentle driving vehicle, easy as stock, until you get on it and then, clench your sphincter hard. The top end charge is really good. I'd definitely recommend it over the Paxton, unless I were planning to go through the rotating assembly and build something that'd do over 800 horse reliably.
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2014 Premium GT, SGM, Brembo, Auto, Tech, Comfort, etc. GT500s, Steeda UCA, VMP auto N/A tune. 100 shot nitrous on BBR tune. Best e/t 11.42 at 120.64

2012 Premium GT, Candy Red, Brembo package, 3.73, MT82, Comfort, Tech, et al. Procal tune, Roush UCA, UMI poly LCA, GT500s, Steeda red bracket, Hoosier 28x10x16 bias drags. Best e/t 11.91 at 115.23 RIP
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