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Old 03-23-2016, 06:19 PM   #1
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Where to now??

Ok, so first, let me list what I have currently.
2013 brembo m6
Ported cj manifold
CJ monoblade
Frpp Intake
SW longtubes
OR Xpipe
gt500 AB
373's
Shaftmasters one piece ds
BMR adj UCA
BMR LCA w/ relocation brackets
Koni yellows
FRPP k springs
BMR adj panhard bar
275 nt05's all around
AED tune
MGW shifter on the way.

So I'm looking for the next step. My tuner recommends against cams, but that's really all that is left to stay n/a. I wanted a nice n/a build with this car since my last 5.0 was a brenspeed 650r setup. I was thinking Stage3 Comp Cams without the limiters, but I have been informed that valve float would be an issue. No other cam setups have really been recommended due to this. I was thinking add boss valve springs and then those cams, but I'm not sure if I should continue down this road at this point. Any advise on a tad more power. I wanted to get to 500whp for a weekend fun car with the occasional non-competitive autox. I'm starting to think I should switch my goals to a nice Paxton w/ torque booster setup from beefcake. Anyone out there have any cam advise that could keep me on the n/a track? If so, what setup and do you have any helpful documented builds?
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Old 03-23-2016, 08:38 PM   #2
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If you want 500 horse N/A, you're going to need to open the engine up and do some headwork, springs and yes, cams. Then rev it to the moon, Alice!
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2012 Premium GT, Candy Red, Brembo package, 3.73, MT82, Comfort, Tech, et al. Procal tune, Roush UCA, UMI poly LCA, GT500s, Steeda red bracket, Hoosier 28x10x16 bias drags. Best e/t 11.91 at 115.23 RIP
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Old 03-23-2016, 08:41 PM   #3
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Won't need head work


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Old 03-23-2016, 08:48 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by 5LHO View Post
If you want 500 horse N/A, you're going to need to open the engine up and do some headwork, springs and yes, cams. Then rev it to the moon, Alice!

Not true bud I'm pushing almost 600


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Old 03-23-2016, 08:50 PM   #5
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My bad misunderstood the post


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Old 03-23-2016, 08:50 PM   #6
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I need more specifics on the cams. Do I need springs, which set to go with, limiters or lockers, etc. I was told if I was going to do it, go with stage 3 comps on the intake side, and stage 1 exhaust, both with boss springs with no limiters. Any opinions?
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Old 03-23-2016, 08:54 PM   #7
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I need more specifics on the cams. Do I need springs, which set to go with, limiters or lockers, etc. I was told if I was going to do it, go with stage 3 comps on the intake side, and stage 1 exhaust, both with boss springs with no limiters. Any opinions?

The stage 3 intake and stage 1 exhaust is good for a daily driver and great on drivability and tuning.

Boss valve springs are fine with the comps no limiters is correct.


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Old 03-23-2016, 08:57 PM   #8
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But when it comes to cams on the coyote I always recommend a custom grind. And deleting the VCT and phasers. For a real NA build


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Old 03-24-2016, 04:22 AM   #9
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Really? 500 wheel and not even a port cleanup, just stock casting? Not rejecting just amazed that Ford would feel the need to improve in the head for 15 if that was true. I love this engine; under promise and over deliver seems to be its motto.
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Old 03-24-2016, 05:44 AM   #10
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But when it comes to cams on the coyote I always recommend a custom grind. And deleting the VCT and phasers. For a real NA build


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Why this route? Isn't it beneficial to implement the vtc tuning into your can choice to help mitigate the low end loss associated with high lift/duration cams? As long as you keep from going too far and creating a ptv contact situation. I wondered how reliable the phasers can be going that route though.
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Old 03-24-2016, 05:59 AM   #11
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Why this route? Isn't it beneficial to implement the vtc tuning into your can choice to help mitigate the low end loss associated with high lift/duration cams? As long as you keep from going too far and creating a ptv contact situation. I wondered how reliable the phasers can be going that route though.

been talking to Shaun I see.

A real NA build, where you run a real cam you have to delete the VCT and phasers.


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Old 03-24-2016, 06:00 AM   #12
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I think most people pushing the envelope here aren't towing a boat or trundling to the shops. Vct adds a lot of spinning weight to the ends of the cams. Ditching the stock phasers and locking them makes for quicker rev pickup and more stable cam timing under duress.

Plus I expect it gets to be a ***** to tune, as you add lift and duration, you start running out of space to put things wrt advancing/retarding the cams and enter into a potential interference situation?
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Old 03-24-2016, 09:13 AM   #13
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Do you guys know any independent dyno comparisons for different setups (not shops pushing a product)? Yes Shaun in who I was talking with and with his background, I was inclined to go with his recommendation; however, when there is something I know little about, I tend to want to do more research on the matter before doing anything and I have never done cams on any vehicle. You may laugh at this, but I was a long time Honda guy and they have been playing with i-vtec where you could do the same type of cam advance and retarding and it was always a must to get the most out of the car; of course in those cars, you needed every bit of torque from advancing the timing on the low end, as you could.
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