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Old 03-31-2016, 08:21 PM   #1
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Smile The Best Driveshaft

Hey guys,

Was doin some research and wanted to know your opinion on buying a new drive shaft.

1. Is it really worth it / can you really feel the difference.

2. What is the best one to get?
I hear great things about this one and always love AMs service. (but this one seems a bit pricey)

The Driveshaft Shop One Piece Mustang Driveshaft - Aluminum FDSH22-A-CV (11-14 GT, BOSS) - Free Shipping

Thanks in advance for all the help!
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Old 03-31-2016, 09:28 PM   #2
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You won't likely feel a difference.

You need to be thoughtful here. You are replacing a 2 piece shaft with a straight one and now your rear end setup will be critical. If you don't have an adjustable upper control arm, you may want to get one, to get your pinion angle right. Now DSS sells once with a CV at the back to supposedly eliminate this need but, I'd rather not have an expensive, frangible CV back there.

These things are super expensive for even what they claim to give as improvements. You might consider putting your money in something more likely to satisfy, like a tune and exhaust work, say.
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Old 03-31-2016, 10:23 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5LHO View Post
You won't likely feel a difference.

You need to be thoughtful here. You are replacing a 2 piece shaft with a straight one and now your rear end setup will be critical. If you don't have an adjustable upper control arm, you may want to get one, to get your pinion angle right. Now DSS sells once with a CV at the back to supposedly eliminate this need but, I'd rather not have an expensive, frangible CV back there.

These things are super expensive for even what they claim to give as improvements. You might consider putting your money in something more likely to satisfy, like a tune and exhaust work, say.

Yea.... I kind of was thinking that, I have CAI and exhaust and a few other mods... was thinking like a tune with the boss intake might be much more worth it at close to that cost.
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Old 03-31-2016, 10:34 PM   #4
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Maybe pass on the Boss, too, unless you are planning on raising the rev limit to close to 8k to take advantage of it. I'd just start with a really solid tune from a recognized vendor. You a stick or auto?
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Old 04-01-2016, 08:50 AM   #5
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I have an aluminum driveshaft and it's one of my favorite mods. Yes, it was expensive, but it was worth it to me.

My pinion angle is still correct and with the stock UCA.

My only regret is that it's a 4inch DS and clearance is REALLY tight between my X-Pipe and the BlowfishRacing Shifter Bracket.

I have plans to eventually swap out with a 3.5in Carbon Fiber driveshaft to get some clearance back.

Ok, now on to the part you want to know about.....

I can't really vouch for "performance". Some people claim the car accelerates faster at lower RPM's. I have 3:73 gears so I really couldn't tell a difference.

However, what I DID notice was the drivetrain (manual trans) felt smmmmooooootttttthhhhhh. No more slop and *clunk*. That alone was worth the price of admission for me.

If you have an automatic tranny I would say skip the DS as you probably won't *feel* it as much as you do with a manual trans.
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Old 04-01-2016, 11:03 AM   #6
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^
What Blitz said. The other thing is that I used a Shaftmasters which is less costly and a direct bolt on....and it's 3-1/2" and had no clearance issues. I also had a 14 TrakPak with 3.73's and really didn't notice any performance improvement...but it was smoother.
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Old 04-01-2016, 01:56 PM   #7
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There is also the Steeda unit, very well priced!

Steeda Mustang GT 3.5" Aluminum Driveshaft (11-14) 238-steeda-2094 | Free Shipping!

From tunes to driveshafts, we have them all - happy to start the conversation!

Best Regards,

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Old 04-01-2016, 07:42 PM   #8
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Go with the Axle Exchange one piece from AM.

Just a near stock 3.7
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Old 04-04-2016, 08:13 AM   #9
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I have a 2013 with a One piece.. While I agree with the above performance wise it may be a very minor Perf. felt Upgrade. It will give you one more item for your list of modifications! LOL
Now in all Seriousness. I do know when I did mine, to me- it felt like a different shifting car. I needed to get used to it on the shifting. Now it could of been the fact i did A LOT of stuff at one time. I also bought a used one from Ebay off a person selling his when trading his car. A risk, but I have only had a couple of bad sales on Ebay after 10 years. So I say do it if you want but its not a must. Its not the best bang for the buck kind of upgrade.
Now counter point.. logic to me thinks removing the extra joint on the 2 pc Drive shaft cant be bad..
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Old 04-04-2016, 08:27 AM   #10
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Well, it actually can be bad....It makes for a need to adjust the rear suspension a likely possibility and if an out of phase situation exists here, you can eat up the pinion bearing in the rear end.
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Old 04-04-2016, 10:40 AM   #11
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If you lower the car and still have the stock driveshaft, there is no need to adjust the pinion angle right???
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Old 04-04-2016, 10:45 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by 5pointYoBro View Post
If you lower the car and still have the stock driveshaft, there is no need to adjust the pinion angle right???
Have check the pinion angle or the driveline.........without checking this you really don't know.
When I lowered my 14 TrakPak it changed the pinion angle by 1/2 degree and I still had the 2 piece driveline.
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Old 04-04-2016, 10:55 AM   #13
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Well, it actually can be bad....It makes for a need to adjust the rear suspension a likely possibility and if an out of phase situation exists here, you can eat up the pinion bearing in the rear end.
Again, unless you check the pinion angle along with driveline angles...if you have a two piece drive line....the most common causes of "Torsional Vibration" is the operating U joint angle at the drive end of the driveshaft...yes also having the orientation...called phasing....of the yokes at each end of the driveshaft will cause Torsional Vibration. All you have to do is look at them to tell if they are oriented correctly.
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Old 04-05-2016, 05:14 PM   #14
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I bought a ShaftMasters for my 2014 GT. Wanted it because I bracket raced the car. Figured I'd reduce my ET abit. It's a very nice unit. Also smooth as glass performance wise. But I gotta tell you It did NOT improve my ET's or pick up any MPH at all!! Not one bit. That really surprised me.
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Old 04-05-2016, 05:59 PM   #15
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Not surprising at all. diminishing rotational mass doesn't change the power output of the engine, which is the most important determiner of particularly MPH but ET as well.

Lighter here just means a little easier to accelerate, emphasis on "a little". Maybe as part of a whole scope lighteing package you'll see a collective gain but from one small but expensive part, not so much. Some of the lighter is erased as well, if you go with a bigger shaft that creates greater force at its perimeter.
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Old 04-05-2016, 06:06 PM   #16
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See in my experience, after I changed out the 2 piece with my Shaftmasters, I actually gained both. I had maybe 10 or so passes with just upgraded suspension, Stock crap tires, and ran Right around 13 flat @ 109. I slapped on the DS, and ran 12.9, 12.8, 12.7 all at around 113mph with my heavier 19's and crap toyo proxes. I felt the DS helped out a bit, especially ET wise. But who knows. There's obviously a lot of variables involved.


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Old 04-05-2016, 06:46 PM   #17
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Tons of variables. ET is most reliant on power transmitted to the track and that means traction and thus, mostly tires.

I did 11.9 with a tune and tire, mainly bc of the tire....with the factory driveshaft.
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Old 04-05-2016, 09:08 PM   #18
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Tons of variables. ET is most reliant on power transmitted to the track and that means traction and thus, mostly tires.



I did 11.9 with a tune and tire, mainly bc of the tire....with the factory driveshaft.

Lol that's an awesome time man. Auto or manual? So inconsistent with the stick. I was ripping off 12's though as I got used to it.


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Old 04-05-2016, 09:31 PM   #19
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Stick, fully loaded BBP car with 3.73s.

My new car is an auto.....We'll see what that does this Friday...
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Old 04-05-2016, 09:32 PM   #20
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Stick, fully loaded BBP car with 3.73s.

Damn, you drove the balls off that thing lol. That's excellent. Hopefully I can achieve similar times once everything is on and dialed in.


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Old 04-05-2016, 09:38 PM   #21
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I have been racing a few decades...it was work to get the car there but super satisfying once I did. I was running the subtle Procal tune from Ford, too
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Old 04-05-2016, 10:33 PM   #22
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I have been racing a few decades...it was work to get the car there but super satisfying once I did. I was running the subtle Procal tune from Ford, too

Yeah I have just about a decade's worth of experience myself. All sorts of different vehicles from AWD subaru's, to RWD mustangs. I only get out to the track maybe 2-3 times a summer. I'm definitely going to basically have to relearn how to drive the car lol


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Old 04-07-2016, 04:07 PM   #23
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^

What Blitz said. The other thing is that I used a Shaftmasters which is less costly and a direct bolt on....and it's 3-1/2" and had no clearance issues. ..but it was smoother.

X2. The clunk elimination was worth it to me too. Could be placebo but I felt it made a little difference. I'd recommend the shaft masters unit any day.


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Old 04-07-2016, 04:39 PM   #24
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I went with the Steeda 1 piece Aluminum Drive Shaft. No complaints, no problems. There is a little difference, but it's hard to describe and hard to notice exact. People who are 100% in tune with their Car will notice the slight change.
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Old 04-08-2016, 08:48 AM   #25
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Thanks for all of the input guys! My car is a manual for someone who asked before. I was just browsing upgrades and lots of reviews on driveshafts said they really Like the feel of the one piece.


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Old 04-08-2016, 08:56 AM   #26
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It's only money. If it'll make you happy, do it.
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Old 04-08-2016, 09:17 AM   #27
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Well worth it on some V6 Mustangs

I got the "AXLE EXCHANGE" one from my local speed shop. It came in a order they had from Ford Racing by mistake so I had a good deal on it installed.
I have an Automatic V6 with 2:73 rear and I noticed a lot of nice improvements on this Aluminum driveshaft over the extremely heavy stock two piece.
No more "CLUNK" ever.
Car slows down using the gears better when you let off the gas due to less drive shaft inertia.
Absolutely "NO" vibrations at all at highway speeds.
felt more responsive then it was with the heavy drive shaft.

Now, I do have to say , My car came with the really heavy stock drive shaft, Some of the later 2012 and newer V6 Mustangs came with a lighter 27 or 30 pound drive shaft
Mine was over 40 pounds.
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Old 04-08-2016, 09:19 AM   #28
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hate to beat a dead horse but pinion angle is big with lowering, one piece and or combo. Also, I was definitely happier with the riveshaft shop one. I had a shaftmassters first and just wasnt right
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Old 04-08-2016, 01:21 PM   #29
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Sterlingbeast5.0 is 100% correct,
*******************************BUT**********************************************
even with a stock drive shaft, It is a good thing to have the pinion angle checked properly if you have lowered the car.
Adjustable Pan-Hard bars are available to adjust if needed.
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Old 04-08-2016, 01:39 PM   #30
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No more "CLUNK" ever.
That is my only real complaint with my car...hate that CLUNK! I thought something was broken when I first got it...

The "clunk" does not justify the price for a new driveshaft in my mind yet, however.
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Old 04-08-2016, 01:39 PM   #31
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hate to beat a dead horse but pinion angle is big with lowering, one piece and or combo. Also, I was definitely happier with the riveshaft shop one. I had a shaftmassters first and just wasnt right

What wasn't "right" about it if you don't mind me asking? Mine has been on a full year now, numerous strip passes, and is holding up quite nicely. I'm just curious, as I know it's on the lower end of the spectrum price-wise for one piece DS's...


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Old 04-08-2016, 01:40 PM   #32
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Panhard bars don't adjust pinion angle, upper control arm does that.
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Old 04-08-2016, 01:47 PM   #33
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5LHO,
Thanks for the information,
I never lowered my Mustang so I don't know, I have just heard that a Pan-Hard bar was needed by what people have said on this forum at times.
I'm not ever planing on lowering my car due to my driveway and all the speed bumps around my area.
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Old 04-08-2016, 01:52 PM   #34
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Ph bar is useful aesthetically to centre the axle across the chassis, if you lower the car.
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Old 04-08-2016, 01:58 PM   #35
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Thanks,
I get what your saying,
Ronnie
__________________
2012-candy red- V-6 MCA, Automatic Trans. CFM Valve cover breather. MMD blackTail light trim.Magnaflow axle back street mufflers, JLT oil catch can.MMD hood struts.
Airaid Cold Air intake. red caliper covers, 3.7L performance engine cover, Flat black hood spears.Boss 302 strut brace, CDC rear panel, Trunk Cargo net,--Dash carpet cover,
Viser stickers to cover ugly yellow warning crap,Aluminum driveshafft and Swarr Bar.
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