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Old 04-14-2016, 06:38 AM   #1
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Fuel System Cleaning

I have a 2011 Gt with appx 70k miles. As of late my Mileage has slipped under 15 mpg with mixed use and feels like it's lost a little pep in its step. Would a fuel system cleaning be a good place to start? I have no indication that something else is wrong with the car.


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Old 04-14-2016, 07:46 AM   #2
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Tune up?
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Old 04-14-2016, 11:26 AM   #3
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Fresh plugs and a clean air filter would be a better place to start.
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Old 04-14-2016, 11:29 AM   #4
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that is what I was gonna say.
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Old 04-14-2016, 02:53 PM   #5
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Air filter is new. Just deleted and reinstalled my tune. Feels factory fresh. Musta have learned my old man driving habits. Will change my plugs next oil change.


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Old 04-20-2016, 12:37 PM   #6
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definitely replace your plugs. I recently had the same issue and it made a world of a difference. I was able to drop a half second at the drag strip with minimal traction! Can't wait to go back and see how bad it REALLY was haha. And for the shameless plug..heres a video I recently made of doing the spark plugs if you need any guidance!
Let us know how it works out for you.
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Old 04-24-2016, 02:03 AM   #7
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definitely replace your plugs. I recently had the same issue and it made a world of a difference. I was able to drop a half second at the drag strip with minimal traction! Can't wait to go back and see how bad it REALLY was haha. And for the shameless plug..heres a video I recently made of doing the spark plugs if you need any guidance!
Let us know how it works out for you.

Hmmm you got me thinking... Should I change my plugs on my 60k mile 11 5.0?


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Old 04-24-2016, 09:16 AM   #8
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Yes.....depends on use but, it's a good idea.
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Old 04-24-2016, 05:30 PM   #9
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Hmmm you got me thinking... Should I change my plugs on my 60k mile 11 5.0?


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Yeah I mean it can't hurt really. I think the plugs cost me all of like 20-40 bucks or something so not even like it could hurt the wallet. Just make sure to disconnect the battery! That fuse I blew cost another 25. lol so doubled my repair costs..but hey I do it for everyone else!
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Old 04-24-2016, 07:11 PM   #10
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They are about 10 bucks a plug where I live, with my shop discount so, it's worth it to me. I used NGK 6510 bc i have nitrous and a fresh set of those will easily go a race season and beyond. Cheap enough to just be sure at the beginning of the season with fresh. I do the same with my drag bike, which also runs spray.
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2012 Premium GT, Candy Red, Brembo package, 3.73, MT82, Comfort, Tech, et al. Procal tune, Roush UCA, UMI poly LCA, GT500s, Steeda red bracket, Hoosier 28x10x16 bias drags. Best e/t 11.91 at 115.23 RIP
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Old 04-24-2016, 08:14 PM   #11
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Replacing mine before 50k miles. I have an odd idle drop issue (400RPM-800ish) and cleaning the maf didn't help. Idle relearn didn't help. I drive mine pretty hard.
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Old 04-24-2016, 10:11 PM   #12
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Replacing mine before 50k miles. I have an odd idle drop issue (400RPM-800ish) and cleaning the maf didn't help. Idle relearn didn't help. I drive mine pretty hard.
Spark plugs would be a good place to start then. I had an odd idle that got much better after plugs. From what I understand they are to be done every 24k Maybe more often depending on driving.
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Old 04-25-2016, 03:08 PM   #13
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Fuel System Cleaning

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Originally Posted by bsyo1021 View Post
Spark plugs would be a good place to start then. I had an odd idle that got much better after plugs. From what I understand they are to be done every 24k Maybe more often depending on driving.


Any suggestions as to which brands to go with for these motors?
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Old 04-25-2016, 03:18 PM   #14
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NGK Iridium is the gold standard and works very well. Your application is nothing special, no power adder, nothing so you can go with the standard heat range (6) and the standard gap or around .050.
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2012 Premium GT, Candy Red, Brembo package, 3.73, MT82, Comfort, Tech, et al. Procal tune, Roush UCA, UMI poly LCA, GT500s, Steeda red bracket, Hoosier 28x10x16 bias drags. Best e/t 11.91 at 115.23 RIP
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Old 04-25-2016, 04:49 PM   #15
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Yeah 5LHO said is good. I put in some Bosche plugs nothing special because I plan to pull them out soon enough for a power adder anyways so I was just grabbing the cheapest plugs I could really. But they run fine as far as it goes.
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Old 04-25-2016, 10:36 PM   #16
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Thanks for the info! I'll grab them for when I'm changing the oil. Gearing up to change almost all the fluids.... 5 years old and 43K on the odo.
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Old 04-25-2016, 10:42 PM   #17
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Best of luck! You'll probably be glad you did haha. I know I was!
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Old 04-26-2016, 12:49 PM   #18
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Do you guys recommend changing plugs by mileage or age? 2012 with 45,000
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Old 04-26-2016, 07:05 PM   #19
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Also decided to change ignition coils as well. Will update after I make the changes.
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Old 04-26-2016, 08:03 PM   #20
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Not a bad idea. And I'd say more mileage and lower it depending on how hard you drive, unless its a garage queen. Then maybe age..
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Old 05-05-2016, 09:57 PM   #21
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So I did the coils and plugs....
I'll be doing this again in 20K miles....


Not sure if my idle drop is COMPLETELY gone. Will have more testing as the weekend goes by. Any thoughts on the plugs? They were gapped at .056 and .055 with the new ones at .050
Took me 1.5 hrs. to get it all done. That's with talking to people walking by and having my mom question me. Air compressor made me feel better.

Wish I had done it sooner.
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Old 05-10-2016, 02:48 PM   #22
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my motorcraft iridium's looked very good at 80k miles, but I had already purchased the NGK's so I replaced them anyway. No change in performance or mileage, which is exactly 23.5 mixed driving. And I play quite a bit. Can get 30 on long trips.
Purchased the Redline Fuel System cleaner, about to dump in a half bottle in a quarter tank of gas.

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Old 05-10-2016, 08:48 PM   #23
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So my idle drop is still there. I don't note mpg (runs on smiles per gallon). I think fuel filter or injectors are my issue.
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Old 05-11-2016, 10:08 AM   #24
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Be aware, I made the mistake of ordering a fuel filter on Amazon. Come to find out from many people, the fuel filter is actually on the fuel pump. ughh Why me? why do the stores even list a fuel filter canister when it doesn't have one?!?

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Old 05-11-2016, 10:21 AM   #25
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Don't waste money on new coils. The OEM ones are the best there are. The fuel filter is integral to the pump and is not serviceable. .055 gap is fine on a stock engine. If it's idling weird, I'd be looking for a post-MAF air leak in the intake.
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2012 Premium GT, Candy Red, Brembo package, 3.73, MT82, Comfort, Tech, et al. Procal tune, Roush UCA, UMI poly LCA, GT500s, Steeda red bracket, Hoosier 28x10x16 bias drags. Best e/t 11.91 at 115.23 RIP
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Old 05-11-2016, 12:13 PM   #26
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Don't waste money on new coils. The OEM ones are the best there are. The fuel filter is integral to the pump and is not serviceable. .055 gap is fine on a stock engine. If it's idling weird, I'd be looking for a post-MAF air leak in the intake.


I bought Ford ones when I replaced the stock coils. I'm about to start air leak testing in a week or so.
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Old 05-11-2016, 12:22 PM   #27
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It's hard because there is so much computing power in the Copperhead and it runs in closed loop all the time, it can work around stuff that's actually quite severe and still run. Data logging is a dead giveaway but, you have to have a device that can do that, like an X4 tuner or an Nguage.
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Old 05-11-2016, 04:46 PM   #28
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It's hard because there is so much computing power in the Copperhead and it runs in closed loop all the time, it can work around stuff that's actually quite severe and still run. Data logging is a dead giveaway but, you have to have a device that can do that, like an X4 tuner or an Nguage.


I have an X4 but I'm not sure how to data log properly. I figured out how to pull up the gauges on the screen so see temps, rpm, voltage and other fun stuff for when I'm on road trips to see how much the engine bay was heating up the cold air on the intake.
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