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Old 04-15-2016, 02:42 PM   #1
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Scratch Remover

I've got some light scratches from when the owner before me got vinyl stripes put on. You can see in the pic, looks like it's from a straight razor. There are only are spots like this on the rear of the car, not the hood or front bumper or roof.

What is the best thing to use to remove these? Or at least make it look better


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Old 04-15-2016, 02:43 PM   #2
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Old 04-15-2016, 02:56 PM   #3
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Is that a vinyl stripe, or paint?

Can you post a photo that shows more of the rear of the car? That may seem like a strange question, but I need to know exactly what I am looking at.

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Old 04-15-2016, 03:14 PM   #4
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Try this ?

https://www.drcolorchip.com/
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Old 04-15-2016, 03:26 PM   #5
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Scratch Remover

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I'm at work and this is the only pic I have. And the stripes are vinyl but the scratch is on the paint

I had dr. Color chip for my old car


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Old 04-15-2016, 03:51 PM   #6
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That looks more like gouges rather than scratches. That is through the clear and the base coat.

To repair that you will need to get a bottle of touch up paint. There are a few ways to go about the repair. The easiest would be to fill the scratches with touch up. Make sure the scratches are clean and free of wax, dirt, grease, etc. You want to over fill the damaged area. It may need several applications before the touch up paint sits above the car's paint. Be patient and let each coat cure for at least 15 minutes.

Once you have the paint sitting above the paint you are matching leave it alone. Do not touch the repair. It needs to cure completely. If the paint is not cured it will turn to be a larger mess than what you have. ...and yes, the patchwork will look terrible at this point. That is the price of progress sometimes.

Once the paint has cured for three hours or more (let it sit overnight if you can) you will need a flat sanding block and 1000, 1500, and 2000 grit water sand paper. If you cannot find 1500 grit skip that stage.

I like to put a drop of dish soap on my sand paper. Then I fill a spray bottle with water. Saturate the 1000 grit and the area you filled with paint. Lightly sand the touch up paint until the surface is level. Do not over sand. If you see that there is a low spot or hole, dry the area and repeat the fill.

Now that things are level, wet the 1500 with water and gently sand the area again. You are not trying to remove a lot of material, you are basically polishing. Now move to the 2000 grit paper.

Wipe everything dry and hand buff / polish the area. Meguires makes a compound that is close to being non abrasive. Once things look nice and shiny break out your favorite polish and watch the paint glow. You should see a deep gloss and brilliant shine. Once you are happy with the results wax the area.

If done correctly no one will ever know a scratch existed.

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Old 04-15-2016, 04:26 PM   #7
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That looks more like gouges rather than scratches. That is through the clear and the base coat.

To repair that you will need to get a bottle of touch up paint. There are a few ways to go about the repair. The easiest would be to fill the scratches with touch up. Make sure the scratches are clean and free of wax, dirt, grease, etc. You want to over fill the damaged area. It may need several applications before the touch up paint sits above the car's paint. Be patient and let each coat cure for at least 15 minutes.

Once you have the paint sitting above the paint you are matching leave it alone. Do not touch the repair. It needs to cure completely. If the paint is not cured it will turn to be a larger mess than what you have. ...and yes, the patchwork will look terrible at this point. That is the price of progress sometimes.

Once the paint has cured for three hours or more (let it sit overnight if you can) you will need a flat sanding block and 1000, 1500, and 2000 grit water sand paper. If you cannot find 1500 grit skip that stage.

I like to put a drop of dish soap on my sand paper. Then I fill a spray bottle with water. Saturate the 1000 grit and the area you filled with paint. Lightly sand the touch up paint until the surface is level. Do not over sand. If you see that there is a low spot or hole, dry the area and repeat the fill.

Now that things are level, wet the 1500 with water and gently sand the area again. You are not trying to remove a lot of material, you are basically polishing. Now move to the 2000 grit paper.

Wipe everything dry and hand buff / polish the area. Meguires makes a compound that is close to being non abrasive. Once things look nice and shiny break out your favorite polish and watch the paint glow. You should see a deep gloss and brilliant shine. Once you are happy with the results wax the area.

If done correctly no one will ever know a scratch existed.

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You're a life saver. I'm going to follow this step for step. Thanks.

Not too sure how bad it really is on the other areas. But only the back of the car had the scratches where they cut the vinyl around the 3rd brake light. I'll find out tomorrow for sure when I start removing the vinyl


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Old 04-15-2016, 05:35 PM   #8
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Every now and then I am in Nashville for work (typical studio stuff). If this was one of those weekends I would volunteer to give you a hand.

Be careful pulling vinyl. I have seen people rip off clear coats as well as paint.

My dad owned a paint and body shop for more than 40 years. I did not choose to learn how to paint, I was forced.

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Old 04-16-2016, 10:50 AM   #9
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I'm just going to do the front bumper for now cause I don't think it's cut up.

But thanks, it's just the trunk lid and rear bumper that are affected. If the hood is.... Then I'm just going to buy a Cobra R hood


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Old 04-16-2016, 11:24 PM   #10
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Meguires makes a compound that is close to being non abrasive.

If done correctly no one will ever know a scratch existed.

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The Meguires is good, but it can cut more than you might expect. I find it works less aggressively if water or non-ammoniated glass cleaner is applied to the applicator before applying the Meguires compound.
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Old 04-16-2016, 11:37 PM   #11
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The Meguires is good, but it can cut more than you might expect. I find it works less aggressively if water or non-ammoniated glass cleaner is applied to the applicator before applying the Meguires compound.
http://www.meguiars.com/m-en/product...imate-compound

That is the product I normally use for small areas. It cuts quick and clean. Like all compounds, you need to be careful. However, it's not like putting 1500 grit polish on a wheel.

That compound normally looks great without polish to the untrained eye. I always follow up with a premium polish, then lightly go over things again with a swirl remover (if it needs it or not). Once I am completely satisfied I wash the entire vehicle to make sure no polishing residues are left. Dry the car thoroughly, and gently use a compressor to blow air into tight spots water likes to hide. Once that is done I apply a coat or two of wax and wait for it to haze properly. Once everything is wiped off and dusted you will see hard work that is well worth the effort in a deep shine.

Of course, this takes about 8 hours at times to properly detail an entire car.

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Old 04-17-2016, 11:14 AM   #12
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Meguiar's : Ultimate Compound : Product

That is the product I normally use for small areas. It cuts quick and clean. Like all compounds, you need to be careful. However, it's not like putting 1500 grit polish on a wheel.

That compound normally looks great without polish to the untrained eye. I always follow up with a premium polish, then lightly go over things again with a swirl remover (if it needs it or not). Once I am completely satisfied I wash the entire vehicle to make sure no polishing residues are left. Dry the car thoroughly, and gently use a compressor to blow air into tight spots water likes to hide. Once that is done I apply a coat or two of wax and wait for it to haze properly. Once everything is wiped off and dusted you will see hard work that is well worth the effort in a deep shine.

Of course, this takes about 8 hours at times to properly detail an entire car.

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Same product I use, but no doubt I'm much less skilled with it. My first time using it by hand, I left some really ugly swirl marks all over my hood. I had to take the car to a professional shop and pay the price to correct my paint with a machine / chemicals/ skill that I don't have.

I have since used it in VERY SMALL areas for scratch repair with good results provided I apply with a moistened applicator, then final polish.

Too bad you don't live closer... I'd pay to have you teach me how to use a polisher correctly while working on one of my cars? I always get poor results trying to self teach/learn.
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Old 04-17-2016, 12:52 PM   #13
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Same product I use, but no doubt I'm much less skilled with it. My first time using it by hand, I left some really ugly swirl marks all over my hood. I had to take the car to a professional shop and pay the price to correct my paint with a machine / chemicals/ skill that I don't have.

I have since uses in in VERY SMALL areas for scratch repair with good results provided I apply with a moistened applicator, then final polish.

This girl bad you don't live closer... I'd pay to have you teach me how to use a polisher correctly while workers nag on one of my cars? I always get poor results trying to self teach/learn.
You can definitely leave swirl marks. I can screw up paint with the best of them. I have seen me do it

The trick is to apply light pressure, and so not let the compound dry out. If it does dry, just go back over it with another light coat and then buff off. You want the compound to do the work.

The step most people don't realize is that polish always, always, always follows compound. I don't care if you put it on by hand, you have to remove the microscopic scratches that even the most gentle compounds leave. ...and again, you polish gently and let the product do the work.

The cloth or sponge you use is just as important as the product. Microfiber cloths can be harsh (I know it sounds crazy, but it's true. Someone will tell me I'm wrong). Pure / all cotton Terry cloth towels are the best to use.

You don't have to wash the car, but I always do before polishing with swirl remover. Swirl remover is not used with circular motions. It requires gentle back and forth strokes. I normally make sure everything is completely removed using long, oblong strokes. You are only making sure there is not a film or residue left.

Once you wax things it will be perfect.

You should only have to use a spray detailer after you wash it. It doesn't really need another wax unless the detail spray feels rough and drags.

Do not constantly polish the finish. Polishing is removing microscopic imperfections.



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Old 04-17-2016, 01:04 PM   #14
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I helped my dad close down his paint shop a couple years ago. I grew up in that environment and said I would never touch anything in a paint and body shop.

My dad closed his shop because of his health. The only thing he worked on in the later years was high end autos, exotic cars, street rod
s and classics, and show cars.

Those cars reignited a bit of passion for me. The last car I built was a true Japanese Toyota Soarer. It was a right hand drive. The owner wanted a wide body kit. The thing had a Supra engine pushing around 1200hp.

I will have to dig up the magazine article and photos. It was a true work of art; and I'm not an import fan.

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Old 04-17-2016, 06:25 PM   #15
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I appreciate all the great information. You should put together an instructional series of videos and accompanying literature for sale. I'd be a buyer...

It may be hard to believe, but I've fully restored & painted several vehicles when I was a young man. I used to be quite good at bodywork and shooting paint, but I've NEVER been the detail guy who made it all come together. Most of it I learned from books, pictures & practice on my own projects. Still, I never had that final slick sand/buff look until my sister's boyfriend did the finish work (he owned a large body shop). I wish she had married that guy, I'd know how to do all this by now.

As a kid it was simple. I wasn't afraid of screwing up. Now I kind of freak out everytime I find something small has happened to one of the 'Stangs.

Car care for me used to be just a wash, spread on the Turtlewax, wipe it off (buffing by hand), and done. That just won't do it for me anymore.

What do you think about these black polish/wax kits for black cars? Are they worth the money ($20ish), or is this just marketing savvy. I started to buy a black kit made by Turtlewax, but decided to ask you first.
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Old 04-17-2016, 06:41 PM   #16
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This is why I'll never buy a black car again. Way too high maintenance. Sterling Grey looks clean even when it isn't, as did the Red Candy on my last car.

My last car before the Stangs was black and it looked mean but, it showed every little thing and drove me crazy.
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Old 04-17-2016, 06:43 PM   #17
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I appreciate all the great information. You should put together an instructional series of videos and accompanying literature for sale. I'd be a buyer...

It may be hard to believe, but I've fully restored & painted several vehicles when I was a young man. I used to be quite good at bodywork and shooting paint, but I've NEVER been the detail guy who made it all come together. Most of it I learned from books, pictures & practice on my own projects. Still, I never had that final slick sand/buff look until my sister's boyfriend did the finish work (he owned a large body shop). I wish she had married that guy, I'd know how to do all this by now.

As a kid it was simple. I wasn't afraid of screwing up. Now I kind of freak out everytime I find something small has happened to one of the 'Stangs.

Car care for me used to be just a wash, spread on the Turtlewax, wipe it off (buffing by hand), and done. That just won't do it for me anymore.

What do you think about these black polish/wax kits for black cars? Are they worth the money ($20ish), or is this just marketing savvy. I started to buy a black kit made by Turtlewax, but decided to ask you first.
For the most part the color stuff is a snake oil shoe polish in my opinion. I have a couple bottles of it, and it really is just a dye that masks a problem rather than being a true solution. I was given the product to try. I do not use it.

As for an instructional video; the thought has crossed my mind today. Rather than a video, I was thinking along the lines of a step by step thread with pictures.

When it comes to a car's finish, preparation is key from the beginning.

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Old 04-17-2016, 06:45 PM   #18
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This is why I'll never buy a black car again. Way too high maintenance. Sterling Grey looks clean even when it isn't, as did the Red Candy on my last car.

My last car before the Stangs was black and it looked mean but, it showed every little thing and drove me crazy.
...but when a black car is cleaned properly it is jaw dropping.

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Old 04-17-2016, 07:05 PM   #19
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For the most part the color stuff is a snake oil shoe polish in my opinion. I have a couple bottles of it, and it really is just a dye that masks a problem rather than being a true solution. I was given the product to try. I do not use it.

As for an instructional video; the thought has crossed my mind today. Rather than a video, I was thinking along the lines of a step by step thread with pictures.

When it comes to a car's finish, preparation is key from the beginning.

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That would be a great thread, and I encourage you to do so. That would be a thread I would print to PDF for reference material.
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Old 04-17-2016, 07:08 PM   #20
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...but when a black car is cleaned properly it is jaw dropping.

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+1

I've had many black cars (two right now) and that won't be changing anytime soon.
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