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Old 05-05-2016, 03:02 PM   #1
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Power to the ground

As the title says I'm looking to put some more power to the ground. I just have basic bolt ons. Yes I'm sure there is probably already a post about this, but what kind of suspension upgrades are needed to do this? In the far future I want to do some kind of forced induction, just keeping this in mind. I'm also on lowering springs.
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Old 05-05-2016, 03:17 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by Alabama5OH View Post
As the title says I'm looking to put some more power to the ground. I just have basic bolt ons. Yes I'm sure there is probably already a post about this, but what kind of suspension upgrades are needed to do this? In the far future I want to do some kind of forced induction, just keeping this in mind. I'm also on lowering springs.
Here are some simple suspension upgrades I would recommend that will help you immensely:

-Lower Control Arms: J&M Extreme Joint Mustang Lower Control Arms 23942B (05-14 All) - Free Shipping

-Differential Brace: Swarr Automotive Mustang Swarr Bar 8.8in Rear Support swarr-05 (05-14 GT, 11-14 V6 & 07-12 GT500) - Free Shipping

-Adjustable Panhard Bar: J&M Mustang Adjustable Panhard Rod 23795B (05-14 All) - Free Shipping

And of course, you'll need some real rubber:

-Mickey Thompson Street Comp Tires, 275 or wider (depends on your wheel size): Mickey Thompson Street Comp Mustang Tire - 275/35-20 90000001616 (05-16 All) - Free Shipping
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Old 05-05-2016, 03:23 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by TRMN8ER View Post
Here are some simple suspension upgrades I would recommend that will help you immensely:

-Lower Control Arms: J&M Extreme Joint Mustang Lower Control Arms 23942B (05-14 All) - Free Shipping

-Differential Brace: Swarr Automotive Mustang Swarr Bar 8.8in Rear Support swarr-05 (05-14 GT, 11-14 V6 & 07-12 GT500) - Free Shipping

-Adjustable Panhard Bar: J&M Mustang Adjustable Panhard Rod 23795B (05-14 All) - Free Shipping

And of course, you'll need some real rubber:

-Mickey Thompson Street Comp Tires, 275 or wider (depends on your wheel size): Mickey Thompson Street Comp Mustang Tire - 275/35-20 90000001616 (05-16 All) - Free Shipping

I'll definitely look into those, thanks.
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Old 05-05-2016, 05:30 PM   #4
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I highly recommend the J&M Extreme Joint LCA's. Made a world of difference for me.

That Swarr bar is interesting... not sure I understand the concept of what it's doing though?
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Old 05-05-2016, 06:00 PM   #5
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I highly recommend the J&M Extreme Joint LCA's. Made a world of difference for me.

That Swarr bar is interesting... not sure I understand the concept of what it's doing though?
It's a brace that clamps over the rear axles and bolts directly into the differential (flaps). It keeps the rear end from getting all squirrelly under hard launches / downshifts etc.

Just like LCAs make a world of difference, so does this. Highly recommended.

Street cars setup for drag usually have something like this custom fabricated and welded in.
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Old 05-05-2016, 06:12 PM   #6
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To add to the above list you will need upper control arms as well. Not to mention shocks and struts


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Old 05-05-2016, 06:47 PM   #7
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To add to the above list you will need upper control arms as well. Not to mention shocks and struts


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You can build an entire suspension for optimal results, but I was just throwing out some of the best parts to start with - they are the ones that will make the most difference.
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Old 05-05-2016, 08:12 PM   #8
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a new uca will net a difference. the stock one is garbage. the shocks and struts will also be greatly noticeable. not shooting down your list bro just adding to it.
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Old 05-05-2016, 08:48 PM   #9
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Just as said above on all the mods mentioned but let me give you some advice on shocks/coil overs. DO NOT and I repeat DO NOT buy Eibach. My coil overs are leaking for the 3rd time and I have only 14k miles on my car. The entire setup has about 6-7k on it and it has been replaced 2 times already and now its leaking AGAIN. (3rd TIME now) My car is a garage queen and the miles show (14k on a late September 2012). I would rather put my stock stuff back on and cut my springs then to have the complete TRASH and waste of money junk that's on my car now. Looking at my super clean car then threw my super clean wheels just revels a oil soaked, grimy, unreadable oil soaked Eibach crap
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Old 05-05-2016, 08:52 PM   #10
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a new uca will net a difference. the stock one is garbage. the shocks and struts will also be greatly noticeable. not shooting down your list bro just adding to it.
Agreed
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Old 05-05-2016, 09:00 PM   #11
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Just as said above on all the mods mentioned but let me give you some advice on shocks/coil overs. DO NOT and I repeat DO NOT buy Eibach. My coil overs are leaking for the 3rd time and I have only 14k miles on my car. The entire setup has about 6-7k on it and it has been replaced 2 times already and now its leaking AGAIN. (3rd TIME now) My car is a garage queen and the miles show (14k on a late September 2012). I would rather put my stock stuff back on and cut my springs then to have the complete TRASH and waste of money junk that's on my car now. Looking at my super clean car then threw my super clean wheels just revels a oil soaked, grimy, unreadable oil soaked Eibach crap
Have you ever used other Eibach products other than the ones installed on your current vehicle? I run Eibach Pro Damper shocks and struts and am satisfied with them... no problems here... I also have a **** ton of more miles on my setup and beat the crap out of my car on the strip time to time... I know you are talking about entirely different parts than mine... But it's possible you could have just gotten parts from a ****ty batch, or just a set of lemons. From what you are explaining, that seems like entirely abnormal behavior for parts from a fairly reputable company.
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Old 05-05-2016, 09:58 PM   #12
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I have use Eibach springs in the past but that's it. The 1st "batch" of Eibach Pro street coil overs that I sent back to Eibach got "rebuilt" by Eibach. Let me mention that was a mess. Charged me just shy of what it would cost for a new damper to fix the leaks. Just a few months later the other side was leaking. Now the first one they "FIXED" is leaking bad. Guess what? They say "sorry its not under warranty, There is a 1 year warranty from the day they were purchased".
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Old 05-05-2016, 11:33 PM   #13
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I have use Eibach springs in the past but that's it. The 1st "batch" of Eibach Pro street coil overs that I sent back to Eibach got "rebuilt" by Eibach. Let me mention that was a mess. Charged me just shy of what it would cost for a new damper to fix the leaks. Just a few months later the other side was leaking. Now the first one they "FIXED" is leaking bad. Guess what? They say "sorry its not under warranty, There is a 1 year warranty from the day they were purchased".
That's ****ty dude... really ****ty. I'd be just as upset as you. I'll keep that in mind next time I go to buy suspension parts.
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Old 05-06-2016, 01:33 AM   #14
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It's a brace that clamps over the rear axles and bolts directly into the differential (flaps). It keeps the rear end from getting all squirrelly under hard launches / downshifts etc.

Just like LCAs make a world of difference, so does this. Highly recommended.

Street cars setup for drag usually have something like this custom fabricated and welded in.

I've got the SWAR Bar in my '04 GT!.. Can't say it made a world of difference, but was noticeable in the corners!..


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Old 05-06-2016, 05:21 AM   #15
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The swarr bar is a waste of money. As far as control arms are concerned I would look into BMR. Their quality is second to none.
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Old 05-06-2016, 09:05 AM   #16
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Suspension mods

+1 to Grabber Blue's comment.
Only added BMR lowers and wheel hop was gonzo!
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Old 05-06-2016, 09:44 AM   #17
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I have BMR. Great parts and great guys if you have any questions at all. Never heard of the swarr but most common things that seem to get brought up for suspension are the rear upper and lower control arms and mounts then shocks and struts and if lowered adjustable panhard bar. Of course get good tires. I have mt street comps 275 on back and a quick burnout provides all the traction I need for how I launch my auto

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Old 05-06-2016, 11:18 AM   #18
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What is the car doing upon launch? What is happening with the car through the first 60ft?

What kind of tires are you running, and what is the pressure?

Are you getting wheel hop, or just roasting the tires? Is the car launching straight, or is the rear drifting?

What springs are you using? What is the spring rate? Are the springs progessive?

What shocks are being used?

With a few of those answers we can have you launching solid on a clean and prepped surface.


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Old 05-06-2016, 11:33 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by Grabber Blue5.0 View Post
The swarr bar is a waste of money. As far as control arms are concerned I would look into BMR. Their quality is second to none.
Think about what the Swarr Bar is actually doing... You must have not tested your launches with and without one. Or you are running too tall of gears to even have an aggressive launch. But whatever, I respect your opinion - to each their own.
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Old 05-06-2016, 03:01 PM   #20
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Think about what the Swarr Bar is actually doing... You must have not tested your launches with and without one. Or you are running too tall of gears to even have an aggressive launch. But whatever, I respect your opinion - to each their own.

I have to admit that I didn't notice much difference in launching with mine on!.. Then again I still have stock gears!.. Lol. Though it did feel more planted when going through corner with it on!..

On a side note it was a cheap little add on when I got mine!.. AM. Had them for just a $100 so couldn't go wrong with that!.. 😜


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Old 05-06-2016, 03:26 PM   #21
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I have to admit that I didn't notice much difference in launching with mine on!.. Then again I still have stock gears!.. Lol. Though it did feel more planted when going through corner with it on!..

On a side note it was a cheap little add on when I got mine!.. AM. Had them for just a $100 so couldn't go wrong with that!.. 😜


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Even when I had 3.73s, my rear end would get all squirrelly prior to install. I couldn't imagine running my 4.10s now without a differential brace. Regardless of others opinions, LCAs and a differential brace compliment each other very nicely. LCAs do make a bigger difference however, for the record.

Also, to the OP - the biggest power gain that you will feel (regardless of numbers), that won't break the bank, is upgrading your gears to 4.10s. You will feel like you are putting down 50% more power on the low end.
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Old 05-06-2016, 04:02 PM   #22
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If you plan on tracking. I'd stay clear of anything lower than 3.73. You will be shifting into 4th when crossing the traps. 3.55 should suffice
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Old 05-06-2016, 04:04 PM   #23
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OP. Auto? Manual? Track? Road course? Give us more details about your vehicle and plans. That will help everyone pitch in
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Old 05-07-2016, 06:16 AM   #24
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Think about what the Swarr Bar is actually doing... You must have not tested your launches with and without one. Or you are running too tall of gears to even have an aggressive launch. But whatever, I respect your opinion - to each their own.
Dude, I put my N/A auto in the low 11's on stock 3.15's with full suspension and I tuned it myself. I'm one of a handful in the country to do that. So please don't pretend to know you have more experience here than me. I get PM's daily on guys looking for advice.
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Even when I had 3.73s, my rear end would get all squirrelly prior to install. I couldn't imagine running my 4.10s now without a differential brace. Regardless of others opinions, LCAs and a differential brace compliment each other very nicely. LCAs do make a bigger difference however, for the record.

Also, to the OP - the biggest power gain that you will feel (regardless of numbers), that won't break the bank, is upgrading your gears to 4.10s. You will feel like you are putting down 50% more power on the low end.
This really is crappy advice. It's been proven time and time again steep gearing is complete overkill in these cars. The OP is looking to put power to the ground and you want him to go with more gear?
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Old 05-07-2016, 11:35 AM   #25
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Dude, I put my N/A auto in the low 11's on stock 3.15's with full suspension and I tuned it myself. I'm one of a handful in the country to do that. So please don't pretend to know you have more experience here than me. I get PM's daily on guys looking for advice.

This really is crappy advice. It's been proven time and time again steep gearing is complete overkill in these cars. The OP is looking to put power to the ground and you want him to go with more gear?
Grabber, in my last post, I clearly accepted that we have a difference of opinion, and had moved on from our debate. You talking about custom tunes and setups that only a few people have ever done, does not apply to the general Mustang driver, nor this thread regarding the Swarr Bar's function.

Are you really telling me you have less low end torque and feeling of power with shorter gears? The OP obviously is not tracking his car at the moment, and just wants to hook up and enjoy his ride. From my personal experience, hooking up with 4.10s proved much more entertaining than hooking up with 3.55s and 3.73s, let alone 3.15s... couldn't imagine how unresponsive those would feel.

It's become evident, that you are making every attempt to take a stab at me at this point... by quoting each of my posts and tearing apart my opinions. It's getting old and annoying, fast. Please, just stop. Let's agree to disagree.
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Old 05-07-2016, 12:06 PM   #26
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3.15's combined with my 4.17 1st and a torque converter made the car very responsive and allowed me 1.5x 60' times. Guess you don't know what gears these new cars have in the transmissions auto or manual. Go educate yourself then come back and we can debate this. I have a feeling though you won't like the outcome.

And the swarr bar is used in place of welding axle tubes and frankly do a horrible job at that. Like I said waste of money.
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Old 05-07-2016, 12:31 PM   #27
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It's become evident, that you are making every attempt to take a stab at me at this point... by quoting each of my posts and tearing apart my opinions. It's getting old and annoying, fast. Please, just stop..
LOL, I see Grabber is still as bitter as ever.

I added that person to my ignore list months ago.

He has a major chip on his shoulder and seems to get some sort of satisfaction out of tearing others down, and then tries to justify his rude behavior by saying things like: "People always ask me for advice because of how awesome I am!"
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Old 05-07-2016, 12:38 PM   #28
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^^ grabber has to be one of the best people to come to advice for when it comes to 1/4. Idk why you guys are so naive to someone knowing more than you on a topic. Obviously he doesn't speak out of his arse as he backs up his replies with 1/4 times and personal experience.
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Old 05-07-2016, 12:41 PM   #29
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I don't know if the OP has an automatic or manual. I don't know how the transmission in that car is geared. The transmission is irrelevant at the moment due to these factors.

In regard to the rear end gearing, the higher the number, the easier it is to rotate the axle and rear tires. For example; 3.27 gears rotate less times per engine revolution than 4.10 gears. This 4.10 gears are not the final piece in the drive train, but we have not gotten that far get.

Less mechanical effort comes with a few drawbacks. You will have to shift sooner due to the RPM and power limitations of the engine. When you go up in rear end gear numbers you lower the top speed in every gear. This is fine Most of the time for drag racing, if you have the right set up to make the car hook up and track straight. However, if you go too high in your gearing you will not only lose speed, you will spin the tires with very little effort.

If you are pushing 350hp or less it is possible to get away with 4.10 gears and stock size tires. Those tires will likely need to be on a 15" wheel and inflated to about 15lbs to grab though. The suspension will need to be addressed also.

The final part in the equation is the tires that are on the rear of the car. The taller the rear tires are will determine the final RPM put to the ground. Tall tires allow for gearing 4.10 and up.

I am reading a debate about a hypothetical situation in which very few variables are known within the equation. How can you provide a right answer without the correct details?

What is the optimum gear ratio to reach a perfect pass? That depends on the transmission type and gearing. The rear tire size must also be calculated in. The type of engine, and the horsepower output is also a variable needed. Without those numbers you can debate all day about what is going to be best.

I didn't even get into the weight of the car. The weight ratio and length of the car is also a factor.

Any car can be made to hook and run fast once you have the numbers. Top fuel cars are hooking solid with 10,000HP and running second ETs at over 300mph. It's all a mathematical equation.


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Old 05-07-2016, 01:39 PM   #30
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I believe that faster cars out there right now have 3.31 gears. The old way of "never fear the gear" is long gone with the coyote with auto Trans. With the low 1st gear in the auto and then the addition of a low rear end gear tends to over gear the car. When we over gear the car it shifts more times going down the track and results in a slower 1/4 mile time. If we don't care about picking up a faster ET then adding more gear is no problem. It might even be more fun.
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Old 05-07-2016, 01:46 PM   #31
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The OP also said he sees forced induction in the future and with forced induction we would want a taller gear so that we stay in the power longer. So 3.15 or 3.31 gears are what he wants to keep. But are we going for the "feels fun" factor or "faster times" factor? Not sure the OP said what he is looking for.
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Old 05-07-2016, 01:50 PM   #32
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The OP also said he sees forced induction in the future and with forced induction we would want a taller gear so that we stay in the power longer. So 3.15 or 3.31 gears are what he wants to keep. But are we going for the "feels fun" factor or "faster times" factor? Not sure the OP said what he is looking for.
If he is wanting to plant power to the ground I would assume he wants traction.

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Old 05-07-2016, 02:09 PM   #33
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3.15's combined with my 4.17 1st and a torque converter made the car very responsive and allowed me 1.5x 60' times. Guess you don't know what gears these new cars have in the transmissions auto or manual. Go educate yourself then come back and we can debate this. I have a feeling though you won't like the outcome.

And the swarr bar is used in place of welding axle tubes and frankly do a horrible job at that. Like I said waste of money.
How about this. You're right, I'm wrong. You win, I lose. Feel better? I'm over trying to deal with your personal bull****.

To the OP - I apologize if I've derailed your thread in any way. There's still a lot of good information and legitimate member opinions in here.
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Old 05-07-2016, 02:51 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by TRMN8ER View Post
How about this. You're right, I'm wrong. You win, I lose. Feel better? I'm over trying to deal with your personal bull****.



To the OP - I apologize if I've derailed your thread in any way. There's still a lot of good information and legitimate member opinions in here.

Don't worry TRMN8ER, Grabber is just another keyboard warrior that seems to spend his free time belittling others on the Internet for being "misinformed"
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Old 05-07-2016, 05:11 PM   #35
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OP. Listen to some of the advice on here and Plan Your Build!.. Do what you think is best for Your Ride!.. And in the end, hopefully you don't have to replace/remod a part you've already done!.. That way in the end you save some cash!.. For example, when I first got my Mustang I though about getting the TrickFlow intake!.. But instead I simply got a 75mm TB and upper plenum!.. Well a couple years later and I decided to Bite the Bullet and I got the TrickFlow!.. Had I done what I wanted/felt best for my ride, I would've saved myself a couple hundred $$!...


Sent from the One and Only ME!..🍻
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