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Old 05-15-2016, 03:40 PM   #36
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Every tuner box carries a warning about this. X3/4, Procal, probably Diablo too
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2014 Premium GT, SGM, Brembo, Auto, Tech, Comfort, etc. GT500s, Steeda UCA, VMP auto N/A tune. 100 shot nitrous on BBR tune. Best e/t 11.42 at 120.64

2012 Premium GT, Candy Red, Brembo package, 3.73, MT82, Comfort, Tech, et al. Procal tune, Roush UCA, UMI poly LCA, GT500s, Steeda red bracket, Hoosier 28x10x16 bias drags. Best e/t 11.91 at 115.23 RIP
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Old 05-15-2016, 03:51 PM   #37
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I've never even heard anyone use a battery booster for tune changes, being it only takes MAYBE five minutes at the most, at least every time I've changed tunes its taken that long.
I'm with you Stolen, maybe we've just been lucky? I've heard of freeze ups or whatever you wanna call it. Op was driving on the road, presumably his battery was fully charged, I wouldn't have thought twice about swapping the tune. Would've told my wife she has to go without the AC for a few minutes though.
Glad it worked out for you op.
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Old 05-15-2016, 04:19 PM   #38
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I've seen this happen to lots of guys don't tune the car while it's hot it does this it has to cool off


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Old 05-15-2016, 04:26 PM   #39
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Seen this happen to guys at mustang week after sitting in hot traffic then stopping at store to retune and car shuts down but loads tune and starts back after cool down.


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Old 05-15-2016, 04:27 PM   #40
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nah, hot, cold, as long as the volts are up yer good.....
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2014 Premium GT, SGM, Brembo, Auto, Tech, Comfort, etc. GT500s, Steeda UCA, VMP auto N/A tune. 100 shot nitrous on BBR tune. Best e/t 11.42 at 120.64

2012 Premium GT, Candy Red, Brembo package, 3.73, MT82, Comfort, Tech, et al. Procal tune, Roush UCA, UMI poly LCA, GT500s, Steeda red bracket, Hoosier 28x10x16 bias drags. Best e/t 11.91 at 115.23 RIP
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Old 05-15-2016, 04:36 PM   #41
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That's not true


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---------- Post added at 03:36 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:36 PM ----------

Call sct ask them


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Old 05-15-2016, 04:51 PM   #42
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Huh? With volts up I've switched tunes at the track on a warm engine, no issue. You gotta splain yourself man. It's an electronic device we are adjusting here.

The sct has a failsafe mode if the volts drop but, not a hot engine failsafe....
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Old 05-15-2016, 08:32 PM   #43
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1) Only use it on cold car that has not ran. If you try to flash a hot CPU, it will fail and "brick" your car until it cools down and you are able to "return to stock" 2) Update your device and read the manual! Shut everything down, unplug phone chargers, turn lights off etc. If you follow these simple steps, you are gonna have a great experience.


I copied this from sct site. I also have seen it happen it's different when it happens. You can make up stuff all you want about what you might think it is but until you have seen it happen a couple of times you figure out what the problem really is.




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Old 05-15-2016, 08:41 PM   #44
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Right now I am looking at my Bama SCT in the box and thinking it is best to just use it as a datalog interface. If I need to adjust anything I will make sure I am with someone that has the ability to reflash the tuner and start things over.

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Old 05-15-2016, 08:43 PM   #45
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that's a bit extreme....it "will fail"...wow, like 100%? totally agree with number 2 though, I do that every time. I've flashed lots but, if I am honest, most times the cpu was cold bc I do it in my driveway, with the charger on like I said before.
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2014 Premium GT, SGM, Brembo, Auto, Tech, Comfort, etc. GT500s, Steeda UCA, VMP auto N/A tune. 100 shot nitrous on BBR tune. Best e/t 11.42 at 120.64

2012 Premium GT, Candy Red, Brembo package, 3.73, MT82, Comfort, Tech, et al. Procal tune, Roush UCA, UMI poly LCA, GT500s, Steeda red bracket, Hoosier 28x10x16 bias drags. Best e/t 11.91 at 115.23 RIP
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Old 05-15-2016, 08:50 PM   #46
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The first time I seen it happen was at mustang week and a guy that was with our group tuned his car at a gas station and we had been sitting in hot traffic for about 45 minutes then his car shut down and we could not figure out what was wrong with it so we called sct hotline and they told us to let it sit and cool down and then return it to stock first and it would be fine. I never believed it myself unit we tried it


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Old 05-15-2016, 09:09 PM   #47
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Even more reasons not to do what the op did....
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2014 Premium GT, SGM, Brembo, Auto, Tech, Comfort, etc. GT500s, Steeda UCA, VMP auto N/A tune. 100 shot nitrous on BBR tune. Best e/t 11.42 at 120.64

2012 Premium GT, Candy Red, Brembo package, 3.73, MT82, Comfort, Tech, et al. Procal tune, Roush UCA, UMI poly LCA, GT500s, Steeda red bracket, Hoosier 28x10x16 bias drags. Best e/t 11.91 at 115.23 RIP
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Old 05-15-2016, 09:14 PM   #48
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Even more reasons not to do what the op did....
Everyone makes mistakes. Sometimes those mistakes are not forseable.

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Old 05-15-2016, 09:22 PM   #49
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Even more reasons not to do what the op did....
Yo, that could honestly be very well what happened to me! I was going from Cove to Waco and back.
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Old 05-15-2016, 10:44 PM   #50
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Old 05-16-2016, 04:43 PM   #51
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I've never tuned the car while it was hot either. I'm thinking I won't ever try it hot.
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Old 05-16-2016, 04:47 PM   #52
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You don't have a tune yet? Do you really need one?
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Old 05-17-2016, 06:55 AM   #53
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You don't have a tune yet? Do you really need one?
Yes...yes you do!
Actually you don't need one, it's a preference. I can only speak for my '12 5.0 but going from a focus to a GT mustang was a world of difference (obviously) but I could feel the "computer lag" and it made me curious enough to want to tune. my first tune was Steeda (with their CAI, no need to argue the +\- of that but I loved it) and Ho Lee Crap! That was the car I imagined when I thought of buying a GT. Then I just got stupid and went Roush SC, then tuned, then smaller pulley, bap (tuned)....
If I were to buy another one, I'd absolutely tune it.
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Old 04-15-2017, 11:39 AM   #54
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It happened to me once at work and at a Wal-Mart parking lot. Scary but necessarily a big deal. When it happened to me I contacted SCT. They advised I disconnect both battery terminals for EXACTLY 30 minutes. Then reconnect and load stock tune. Then load a custom tune. Issue resolved.

It can happen if voltage is low or if you enter the ECU without waiting at least 3 seconds after you turn key on.

I advise not using anything electronic in the car while loading tune. Close the doors, turn off radio, radar detector, GPS, dash cam, headlights, phone charger, etc.


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Old 04-15-2017, 02:29 PM   #55
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Really glad it worked out for you, OP. Had the same thing happen to me in the garage with a charger on. So, no guarantees it was anything you did. I think you were innocent of all wrongdoing and just unlucky. And, you had your car's best interests at heart when you pulled over. Thumbs up to that.

On an unrelated note, I wonder if people read their posts over before they hit the send button. Some comments really make them sound like judgemental dicks, don't they? I don't mean specifically anyone on this thread (unless you think it is warranted?). No offense to anyone. And I hope 'dick' is not a restricted word? If so, I will apologize for that in advance as well.

All the best.
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Old 04-15-2017, 07:15 PM   #56
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I hear you but, again, you set yourself up for problems by running a lope tune that would damage the cats in a condition where you might have to drive for an extended period. That wasn't that good an idea either and was probably prompted by such thinking as wanting to look cool at the car show with a lope tune. Am I wrong about how all this came to pass?

There's no problem changing tunes, as long as you takes a few simple precautions when doing it. I have a lithium battery car booster I use at the track when I do this. At home I use my regular plug in battery charger. Virtually foolproof as long as you are over 12v.

So...Detail question here...Do I clamp on the booster, turn it on & starts messing with the tune, or put it on but not switch on just in case stuff go wrong? I assume you connect it to the battery to as a extra power supply to prevent it from dropping under 12v?


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Old 04-15-2017, 07:22 PM   #57
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Yeah, I don't run my nitrous tune on the street bc it disables all the safety nannies, for example. Kinda has to, for the safety of the engine at the strip when blowing spray into the engine but, compromising safety on the road ain't that good an idea. Too many idiots out there....

Yup, get involved in one accident and you'll instantly become a contributor to the mustang stereotypes


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Old 04-16-2017, 09:37 AM   #58
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So...Detail question here...Do I clamp on the booster, turn it on & starts messing with the tune, or put it on but not switch on just in case stuff go wrong? I assume you connect it to the battery to as a extra power supply to prevent it from dropping under 12v?


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If you're using a battery booster/trickle charger to keep voltage, then hook it up and turn it on before uploading the tune. It reads the battery voltage and supplies voltage when voltage drops in the battery.
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Old 04-16-2017, 09:55 AM   #59
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My radar detector has a built in voltage meter. A useless feature i thought (at first)...now, I give it a look before loading the tune to make sure I got enough juice.


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Old 04-16-2017, 06:40 PM   #60
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Very interesting info here I didn't know about, good to learn more Pony.
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