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Old 06-26-2016, 11:23 AM   #1
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Best way to lower running temps. ..

Hello all, so I'm ready for my next phase in prepping for the FI coming later. Part of that is cooling the car down in the 100* ambient climate I live in.
I'm debating if i should install the Boss radiator and oil cooler or just the Mishimoto oil cooler (no radiator).
Maybe just maybe I can push the budget for the Mishimoto oil cooler and the radiator but that'd be two steps.
Please share your thoughts, or better yet, your experience.

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Old 06-26-2016, 11:36 AM   #2
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Super sorry Mods, i just realized I posted this in the 15+ section and i have a14.
Mods, please move to the 14 section. Sorry guys.

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Old 06-26-2016, 12:50 PM   #3
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Two cheap and simple ways to begin would be to add a 180° thermostat, and then use a tuner if you have one to lower the temperature the fan comes on at.

You can also add Water Wetter to your antifreeze mixture.

Those are places I would start unless you just want a larger capacity radiator.

I have had no problems at all with my Mustang overheating, but when I had the WS6 TransAm the car would overheat sitting in traffic. The car did not like being still. The air deflector under the car had to be in position and I'm good condition also. That little piece of plastic was critical when the car was moving.



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Old 06-26-2016, 11:30 PM   #4
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I appreciate the ideas but I'm trying to increase my heat exchange capabilities.
The water wetter will help a little (I know because i already use it). The thermostat and tune will come with time.
For now i am trying to prepare by increasing the capabilites.
If I can lose heat from the oil and coolant fluid that should help.
Maybe I'll ask this way. ... is the stand alone oil cooler 2.5-4 (increase in cost) times more effective compared to the Boss oil cooler.?

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Old 06-26-2016, 11:37 PM   #5
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I completely misunderstood what you were asking. Hopefully someone will have the answer you need concerning the oil cooler.

I'm my opinion, the more space given to disperse heat, the better. With my computers, guitar and bass amps, and other electrical equipment the heat sinks play a huge role in the longevity of the equipment. Radiators and other fluid heat exchange components work in the same way. Larger capacities in space and volume will cool more efficiently.

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Old 06-27-2016, 02:00 AM   #6
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I have a stand alone oil cooler on my 14 GT. It keeps the oil temp very consistent. I have a cooltech oil cooler that is a beast. I have a mishimoto thermostatic base that kicks in at 180. I have an Autometer gauge that goes straight to the cooler. You can see it hit 180~ and immediately drop 15-20 degrees. The problem with the boss is it can actually cause the coolant temps to rise a bit. I notice with my stand alone set up the coolant actually stays cooler as the oil is also being cooled.

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This particular company charges 1200 bucks for these (I picked mine up used for very cheap) but I imagine the mishimoto unit AM sells will do the job just the same.
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Old 06-27-2016, 09:55 AM   #7
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Dumb question of the day: Does the naturally aspirated 1999-2004 GT have a factory oil cooler?

Yes, I really asked that question.



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Old 06-28-2016, 08:25 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Revvv View Post
Dumb question of the day: Does the naturally aspirated 1999-2004 GT have a factory oil cooler?

Yes, I really asked that question.



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My memory is it depends on the transmission. The oil cooler used is a small heat exchanger at the oil filter mounting base, probably 1/3 the capacity of modern Boss.
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Old 06-28-2016, 09:57 AM   #9
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Don't change the thermostat. It will not increase your car's cooling capability and the car is actually designed to run at the temperature set by the stock thermostat.

The boss radiator or the mishimoto radiator are both good choices. The boss oil cooler is junk and actually tends to make things run hotter. If you want an oil cooler, get an air-to-oil cooler with a thermostat so your car still warms up quickly.
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Old 06-28-2016, 10:01 AM   #10
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Best way to lower running temps. ..

Take the hood off. 👍
Like others have said better radiator and oil cooler.
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Old 06-28-2016, 10:28 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noldevin View Post
The boss oil cooler is junk and actually tends to make things run hotter.
Can you substantiate that claim?
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Old 06-28-2016, 10:54 AM   #12
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Can you substantiate that claim?
Check s197forum or trackmustangsonline. Anyone who tracks the car on a road course ends up removing the boss cooler or supplementing it with an additional air-oil cooler. Ford even had a program for Boss owners who ran into heat issues where they would swap out a "real" oil cooler.

All the boss cooler does is introduce coolant heat into your oil (coolant tends to heat up faster than oil) and it is often referred to as the boss oil heater.

I personally will be removing my boss oil heater as my oil temp gauge likes to climb into the yellow when I'm on the track, even on cooler days. I'll be replacing it with a custom air-oil cooler setup.
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Old 06-28-2016, 12:11 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by noldevin View Post
Don't change the thermostat. It will not increase your car's cooling capability and the car is actually designed to run at the temperature set by the stock thermostat.
I'm not disagreeing with you, and hopefully not getting off topic. I agree that a 180° thermostat cannot or will not make that much of a difference. It is only opening sooner to flow coolant at a slightly lower temp.

Why is the optimum thermostat the stock thermostat? I'm actually looking for a lesson here. Educate me.


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Old 06-28-2016, 01:06 PM   #14
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I think the higher temperature thermostats (195-210F) the factory fits are mostly for emissions reasons. The hotter you can run the engine, short of causing detonation or other issues, the more completely the fuel is burned.

Having said that I wonder if fitting a 180F t-stat will confuse the ECU if it has not been tuned?
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Old 06-28-2016, 01:11 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by WJBertrand View Post
I think the higher temperature thermostats (195-210F) the factory fits are mostly for emissions reasons. The hotter you can run the engine, short of causing detonation or other issues, the more completely the fuel is burned.

Having said that I wonder if fitting a 180F t-stat will confuse the ECU if it has not been tuned?
I doubt it would. The fan may turn on a bit later, but I doubt it would mess with the ECU. I don't know how it could.

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Old 06-28-2016, 02:08 PM   #16
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My local dyno tuner told me (and showed me) that the coyote engines actually like a little bit of heat. My car made the most power not on the first (cold) pull, but on the 2nd pull after it had a chance to generate some heat. Obviously you don't want too much heat.

The other reason messing with the thermostat doesn't really help is it also functions to help coolant stay in the radiator longer and lose more heat. If you use a lower temp thermostat, the coolant won't stay in the radiator as long and won't release as much heat.

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I doubt it would. The fan may turn on a bit later, but I doubt it would mess with the ECU. I don't know how it could.
You would at the very least need a tune to adjust when the fan kicks on, etc.


Here is a good read for those curious as to why the lower temp thermostat is bogus.

http://www.tuneruniversity.com/blog/...the-advantage/
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Old 06-28-2016, 04:22 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by WJBertrand View Post
I think the higher temperature thermostats (195-210F) the factory fits are mostly for emissions reasons. The hotter you can run the engine, short of causing detonation or other issues, the more completely the fuel is burned.

Having said that I wonder if fitting a 180F t-stat will confuse the ECU if it has not been tuned?
If the coolant temp doesn't reach the target range then the ECU turns on the check engine light. The DTC set is for the ECT sensor.

BTW, NASCAR engines try to keep the oil temp near 225 F and it would be interesting to know what coolant temps they run
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Old 06-28-2016, 04:23 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noldevin View Post
My local dyno tuner told me (and showed me) that the coyote engines actually like a little bit of heat. My car made the most power not on the first (cold) pull, but on the 2nd pull after it had a chance to generate some heat. Obviously you don't want too much heat.

The other reason messing with the thermostat doesn't really help is it also functions to help coolant stay in the radiator longer and lose more heat. If you use a lower temp thermostat, the coolant won't stay in the radiator as long and won't release as much heat.



You would at the very least need a tune to adjust when the fan kicks on, etc.


Here is a good read for those curious as to why the lower temp thermostat is bogus.

http://www.tuneruniversity.com/blog/...the-advantage/
That makes sense.

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Old 06-28-2016, 04:42 PM   #19
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One of the reasons the stock Boss oil heat exchanger brings up the oil temp faster is the 5W50 viscosity spec. Ford doesn't want starved bearing problems for street driving and track days where you pull out of the pits with a cold engine for a couple of hot laps. An oil to air cooler even with thermostat control isn't as good in these situations.
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Old 06-28-2016, 05:09 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by noldevin View Post
Check s197forum or trackmustangsonline. Anyone who tracks the car on a road course ends up removing the boss cooler or supplementing it with an additional air-oil cooler. Ford even had a program for Boss owners who ran into heat issues where they would swap out a "real" oil cooler.

All the boss cooler does is introduce coolant heat into your oil (coolant tends to heat up faster than oil) and it is often referred to as the boss oil heater.

I personally will be removing my boss oil heater as my oil temp gauge likes to climb into the yellow when I'm on the track, even on cooler days. I'll be replacing it with a custom air-oil cooler setup.
I've noticed I can get the display gauge into the yellow after several high rpm runs through the gears. I think the Ford recommendation for cooler changes was for sustained rpm over 4500. I'd be curious to know what temp the yellow really is
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Old 06-28-2016, 05:41 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Koryak View Post
One of the reasons the stock Boss oil heat exchanger brings up the oil temp faster is the 5W50 viscosity spec. Ford doesn't want starved bearing problems for street driving and track days where you pull out of the pits with a cold engine for a couple of hot laps. An oil to air cooler even with thermostat control isn't as good in these situations.
Yeah, it actually does a good job of warming the car up faster. But it is counter productive when running the car hard. I'll most likely be doing a real oil temp gauge when I make the swap over to a real cooler, so I'll be sure to post up a comparison of real gauge vs dash gauge.
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Old 06-28-2016, 05:48 PM   #22
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My oil temp gauge typically reads around 180 if I'm doing regular driving. If I am revving it above 4500 for extended periods of time it stays at about 195-205. This is on a hot day here in central cal (over 100 typically in the summer). The oil cooler is set to open at 180. It doesn't take my car more than 5-8 minutes to be at operating temps after a cold start.
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Old 06-30-2016, 07:14 PM   #23
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I doubt it would. The fan may turn on a bit later, but I doubt it would mess with the ECU. I don't know how it could.

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Mostly I was thinking it might trigger an error code that your engine was not running at normal temperature. Nothing more than that.
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